Has anyone run a 240v induction cooktop on a generator?

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TANSTAAFB

TANSTAAFB

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I got a helluva deal on a 240v cooktop that I couldn't pass up despite not having the appropriate 240v capacity at this time. I'd like to at least test the damn thing out, and ideally brew a batch or two. I know I can build an adapter to my dryer but I've also got a generator that puts out 240. After hours of searching for an L14-30p to 6-20r adapter for under $40 (this is the best I found...AC Connectors 1FT 10AWG L14-30P 30A 125/250V Locking Plug to 6-15/20R T Blade 15/20A 250Volt Connector L1430620-012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRT9LLP/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) I finally happened across this little gem RIDGID 30 Amp 10/4 Adapter Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FK8SL2G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I figure I can cutoff the L14-20r end and wire the 6-20r to it. Anyone with more electrical experience than me (which is pretty much everyone 😁 ) see anything wrong with this plan?

Below are pics of the generator and cooktop, can't for the life of me get them to post right side up! Never did chase down ANY info on the cooktop. Found a site for the brand but never even found a pic, much less a review or a manual.

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Not to be negative, but generating your own power is pretty inefficient. Also looks like you will not have GFI using the adapter and generation.

Jmo, I would put effort and money toward using your house power.
 
I rent so I can't do anything about the electricity situation until we move, which should be soon. I'm looking for a place that is more conducive to electric brewing but until then I'd like to be able to test and maybe brew a batch or two.
 
The cooktop should be labeled with a power consumption figure. If it's less than the 3650W continuous figure on your genny, it should work.

The lack of GFCI is something to consider, though.
 
Any suggestions on incorporating an inline GFCI? I'm having to build adapters for either the dryer or genny connection
 
Why don't you just lop the cord off the cooktop and put the appropriate dryer cord end on? Should be $15 and you're ready to run. GFCI is an option and the induction isn't quite the same as when we have an electric element immersed in the water so there is a bt safer operation going on, but a big enough boilover could pose a risk, but normal operation leaves no path to the wort for a shock.
 
Seems counter intuitive to me to run a gas generator to achieve needed voltage, but as a test it makes sense. If the test works you can (I guess) safely convert the dryer plug.
 
I ran my 5500w BK on my 7500w (continuous) generator for grins when I did this year's hurricane prep. It was really straining under the load. Running a 3650w gen at 3500w will be pushing it to the limit. I couldn't tell what model gen that is, but I wouldn't run a harbor freight model at that duty cycle for long. If you want to boil with the gen, it's more efficient to put an element in the pot.
 
Fair enough. It's a General generator and I think the cooktop is actually 3300w. BTW, here's a nice GFCI option
Woodhead 24052-1M Super-Safeway Watertite GFCI Plug and Connector, Industrial Duty, Manual GFCI Reset, NEMA L6-20, 12/3 SJEOOW Cord Type, 20A Current, 240V Voltage, 2ft Cord Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB65A4E/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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WPStrassburg said:
Why don't you just lop the cord off the cooktop and put the appropriate dryer cord end on? Should be $15 and you're ready to run. GFCI is an option and the induction isn't quite the same as when we have an electric element immersed in the water so there is a bt safer operation going on, but a big enough boilover could pose a risk, but normal operation leaves no path to the wort for a shock.
Click to expand...

I'd rather adapt than cut up the cord on the cooktop. And I had the same thought re: the GFCI. Is it best practice? Yes. Is it as critical with induction vs. element? I don't think so
 
It is a 3 prong. I just got in a 9' 240v extension cord. I have an induction ready 10gal kettle and my 20 will get here Wednesday. I will likely build a dryer cord adapter but I was able to test with the generator today. The cooktop works and if I don't max it out the generator does great! I have my zombiepocalypse brewing set-up!
 
TANSTAAFB said:
I was able to test with the generator today. The cooktop works and if I don't max it out the generator does great! I have my zombiepocalypse brewing set-up!
Click to expand...


Ok great....just don't cook the generator, and possibly the induction plate....

Generating your own electricity to make heat may be a taxing process....

I would be concerned with running the generator close to its max out put, stressing it out perhaps to failure, and also providing clean constant power to your induction plate so as not to stress it to failure.

The power company is more likely well suited for this task imo....good luck.

Perhaps an electrical expert would know more....if I recall I got C's in EE courses and know enough to.keep me alive lol [emoji23]
 
as others mentioned its not very economical to use use a generator to make power for this... as you could guess its more practical and less of a hassle just to use propane at that point. Too main conversion processes being done to simply make heat (and not very much heat at that). Its noisy dirty and expensive when drawing that many amps unless you live off the grid I wouldnt even consider it for you neighbors sake alone.
I looked into it myself since I have a camp that only has a 30a main power service and was considering brewing there..

Another question... how do you properly ground a gfci being powered by a generator? do you have to pound a ground stake into the ground? I dont see how it would work otherwise?
 
IIRC, a GFCI does not need a ground to function. They kick off when the current on one leg doesn't match the current on the other (because the differential might be going through you).
 
skidmark said:
IIRC, a GFCI does not need a ground to function. They kick off when the current on one leg doesn't match the current on the other (because the differential might be going through you).
Click to expand...

Correct. GFCI doesn't measure ground current, it measures the differential of the hot current and neutral current. GFCIs will operate without a ground path and IIRC NEC permits GFCI use in some situations where there isn't a ground.
 
skidmark said:
IIRC, a GFCI does not need a ground to function. They kick off when the current on one leg doesn't match the current on the other (because the differential might be going through you).
Click to expand...

yeah I though I remembered reading that a ground isnt needed but wasnt sure... I though the spa panels required a ground to meet code and incorrectly assumed they were needed.
 
Dunno really about NEC/code spa requirements, but it would not be a stretch to guess that a ground conductor for over current is required for that application.

Its just that a GFI does not need a ground to operate as designed.
 
Ok, I just built the dryer adapter and tested the cooktop. 6 gallons of water took 25 minutes to get from 70 to 158. I'm pretty happy with that. I'll do a boil test soon and post results
 
triethylborane said:
Correct. GFCI doesn't measure ground current, it measures the differential of the hot current and neutral current. GFCIs will operate without a ground path and IIRC NEC permits GFCI use in some situations where there isn't a ground.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I think you answered a question I have in finishing my control panel. I am running two independent circuits, each on it's own GFCI, into my panel. Tying the grounds together at the chassis ground shouldn't cause problems with proper GFCI operation. Is that correct?

Remains to be seen if that causes ground loop issues for the Raspi and sensors, but I'll save that discussion for a different thread.
 
Alt said:
Thanks guys, I think you answered a question I have in finishing my control panel. I am running two independent circuits, each on it's own GFCI, into my panel. Tying the grounds together at the chassis ground shouldn't cause problems with proper GFCI operation. Is that correct?

Remains to be seen if that causes ground loop issues for the Raspi and sensors, but I'll save that discussion for a different thread.
Click to expand...
:off: I always thought GFCI stood for "Ground fault circuit interrupt"... does anyone know why if it doesnt use ground?
I believe I have a ground loop issue with a sensor myself with a 1 wire sensor and brucontrol /adriuno setup... drove me nuts trying to figure it out because it would only act up when my chiller kicked on and the sensor was in the chiller reservoir..
 
augiedoggy said:
:off: I always thought GFCI stood for "Ground fault circuit interrupt"... does anyone know why if it doesnt use ground
Click to expand...
I believe it's because some of the power that flowed in isn't flowing back out the neutral wire (like a well behaved electron should) so it must be flowing to ground. Possibly through you to get to ground.
 

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