zyzzyva
Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2019
- Messages
- 7
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Hi everyone. Long time lurker here. I've been truly amazed and inspired by all your posts and the help you've offered others. Now I'm hoping it's my turn.
I'd like to build up an EBIAB system using the EZBoil, specifically the DSPR320. I live in an apartment that's entirely wired with 120v/15A outlets. There's no room on my breaker box for a 240 circuit, and even if there was there's no way the landlord would sign off on it.
Until recently, I assumed I'd just plug two elements into two outlets on two circuits. One would be controlled by the PIC and the other would be a "dumb" element that I'd turn on and off to reach temps faster. That's still an option, but recently I discovered that I might be able to use a 120 to 240 adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Elec...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJRDRBRW0K18A259G5MM
In my kitchen, I have two outlets about 10 feet apart. They're on separate circuits that are out of sync, and when I plug a multimeter into both, I get readings of 240v (actually 245). My understanding is that this combination is still 15A, so I would have a max load of 3600w. Assuming that's correct, it looks like I have three options:
Option A is what I mentioned above: two 1650w elements on two outlets, one controlled by the 120v PID and one controlled manually. This is probably the most viable option, and it's also the most versatile since I could use it anywhere with two circuits, but it doesn't allow as much control as the other options.
Option B: still the same two elements as A, but this time both connected to the PID running on 240w. This would allow full control over the heating process. It would also allow me to switch back to option A if necessary without much fuss. But, it's the most complicated and expensive option, as it requires two elements wired in parallel, along with the 240v adapter.
Option C: one 3500w element, connected to 240v PID. This would be my preference if I was sure it would work. It's a bit simpler and cheaper than option B, while still giving full control. I wouldn't have to put another port in my kettle or wire two SSRs in parallel. My main concern here is that the 3500w element is awfully close to my max load, and I don't know how much juice the adapter might eat, if any. I know from past experience that each outlet is capable of running an 1800w induction plate for several hours (long enough to brew a 5 gallon batch on 1800w!) so it might work fine, but I'm not certain. My pump draws 25w, and that's the only other thing I'd be using when the element is on. If Brewhardware or another reputable source offered a 3300w element, I'd go for it. But the only ones I've found ship from overseas and may not be fully stainless.
Anyhow, I would love some advice. Is this just a crazy pipe dream and I should stick with option A so I don't burn the building down? Is option C totally viable and I'm overthinking it? Should I give up my otherwise totally amazing apartment and move to a shack with proper 240 power? All feedback is appreciated!
Thanks.
I'd like to build up an EBIAB system using the EZBoil, specifically the DSPR320. I live in an apartment that's entirely wired with 120v/15A outlets. There's no room on my breaker box for a 240 circuit, and even if there was there's no way the landlord would sign off on it.
Until recently, I assumed I'd just plug two elements into two outlets on two circuits. One would be controlled by the PIC and the other would be a "dumb" element that I'd turn on and off to reach temps faster. That's still an option, but recently I discovered that I might be able to use a 120 to 240 adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Elec...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJRDRBRW0K18A259G5MM
In my kitchen, I have two outlets about 10 feet apart. They're on separate circuits that are out of sync, and when I plug a multimeter into both, I get readings of 240v (actually 245). My understanding is that this combination is still 15A, so I would have a max load of 3600w. Assuming that's correct, it looks like I have three options:
Option A is what I mentioned above: two 1650w elements on two outlets, one controlled by the 120v PID and one controlled manually. This is probably the most viable option, and it's also the most versatile since I could use it anywhere with two circuits, but it doesn't allow as much control as the other options.
Option B: still the same two elements as A, but this time both connected to the PID running on 240w. This would allow full control over the heating process. It would also allow me to switch back to option A if necessary without much fuss. But, it's the most complicated and expensive option, as it requires two elements wired in parallel, along with the 240v adapter.
Option C: one 3500w element, connected to 240v PID. This would be my preference if I was sure it would work. It's a bit simpler and cheaper than option B, while still giving full control. I wouldn't have to put another port in my kettle or wire two SSRs in parallel. My main concern here is that the 3500w element is awfully close to my max load, and I don't know how much juice the adapter might eat, if any. I know from past experience that each outlet is capable of running an 1800w induction plate for several hours (long enough to brew a 5 gallon batch on 1800w!) so it might work fine, but I'm not certain. My pump draws 25w, and that's the only other thing I'd be using when the element is on. If Brewhardware or another reputable source offered a 3300w element, I'd go for it. But the only ones I've found ship from overseas and may not be fully stainless.
Anyhow, I would love some advice. Is this just a crazy pipe dream and I should stick with option A so I don't burn the building down? Is option C totally viable and I'm overthinking it? Should I give up my otherwise totally amazing apartment and move to a shack with proper 240 power? All feedback is appreciated!
Thanks.