Hard Root Beer recipe

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Here's my original recipe.



---Primary---
1 tsp yeast nutrient
1/2 tsp yeast energizer
4 oz brown sugar
4 oz lactose
1 pound light DME
Nottingham Ale Yeast

Boil DME, brown sugar, and lactose with about 4 cups water. Pour in primary. Add nutrient and energizer. Top off. Let cool and pitch yeast. Ferment for 5-7 days. Stabilize (if kegging). Wait another week.

---Before Kegging---
1 cup sugar boiled in 1 cup water
5 1/2 oz wildflower honey
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp root beer extract (McCormick)

Boil sugar and add to bottling bucket. Then add honey (warm it so its easier to pour) and the extracts. Let cool and add primary. Pour in Keg or bottles.

If bottling, let carb and put in fridge so the yeast doesn't continue to carb and over carbonate bottles

Really dumb question. When you say "top off" are you saying top off so I reach a gallon?

Also, what's the other recipe about using actual grains? I'm confused which one people are actually using.
 
Really dumb question. When you say "top off" are you saying top off so I reach a gallon?



Also, what's the other recipe about using actual grains? I'm confused which one people are actually using.

Topping off is just adding water to come up to the desired volume.

The recipe with actual grains is an all grain version of the extract recipe.



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I'm about to make this but what does it mean to stabilize before kegging and why?
 
I'm about to make this but what does it mean to stabilize before kegging and why?


It means to inhibit the yeast from doing what they do by using potassium Sorbate and potassium metabisulphite.

You would want to do this before kegging to prevent the yeast from converting the sugars from back sweetening to more alcohol. Also if you bottle any from the keg you won't have to worry about bottle bombs if they get warm.


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It means to inhibit the yeast from doing what they do by using potassium Sorbate and potassium metabisulphite.

You would want to do this before kegging to prevent the yeast from converting the sugars from back sweetening to more alcohol. Also if you bottle any from the keg you won't have to worry about bottle bombs if they get warm.


Sent from somewhere to someone


Oh and I need both potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulphite or does either one suffice? I didn't know I had to stabilize. Glad I read this because I was going to do cider soon and didn't know to stabilize it which I assume is necessary too. Thank you.
 
Oh and I need both potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulphite or does either one suffice? I didn't know I had to stabilize. Glad I read this because I was going to do cider soon and didn't know to stabilize it which I assume is necessary too. Thank you.


Yes it would be the same for the cider. I used both. As it was explained to me when I was searching back sweetening. One denatures the active yeast so they become dormant. The other prevents new yeast from being reproduced.


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My OG seemed low but I think my boil off was much less than I anticipated. Just using a 2 gallon all-clad pot on my stove. I had an OG of 1.035 so I added 12 ounces of DME and 2 ounces of brown sugar and bumped up to 1.074 so it's going to be "super hard" root beer. :D I am chilling right now in the freezer because I ran out of ice packs and ice cubes for an ice bath.

I added two b-grade vanilla beans split 5 minutes before flameout. They were opened 5/23/14 so they had dried even more. I figure it wouldn't hurt and I love vanilla.

Looks like I have just over a gallon left, I had originally added 1.35 gallons of water to do a full boil. No top off because I don't have any bottled water on hand.
 
Finished and kegged a 2 gallon batch of this about 2 weeks ago. Came out a little sweeter than I would like. The alcohol also has a stronger taste than I was going for. Anyone have thoughts on tweaking it now that its already been kegged? Can I just add some water and more extract if needed?
 
^ I suppose more water & extract wouldn't hurt. It is worth the shot.


I also have a question. I brewed this 6/13 and it's at 70F right now.
I was wondering if I could bottle in plastic bottles but stabilize with potassium sorbate and potassium metabisulphite, put in the fridge to chill then use a carb cap to carbonate then stick back in the fridge?

Otherwise, is my only option if I want to use plastic bottles to fill, carbonate, then put in the fridge since I don't think I should or could pasteurize, right?
 
Yes if you don't stabilize then carb you will need to keep the bottle refrigerated after they carb up. The only reason I wouldn't pasteurize is the inherent risk of bottles exploding when heated. If you're using plastic I'm not sure that's a real concern. Either way if you keep then cold you wouldn't really have to worry about them exploding. I only stabilize and keg so incase I give a bottle or two out they won't explore if whomever doesn't keep them cold.


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No worries. Thank you! I missed that part. I have a gallon of root beer so not sure how to scale that kmeta. It seems like a pinch is more than enough. These are just going into PET bottles and then into the fridge to chill before force carbing using a carb cap.
 
My FG was 1.010 so I bottled it up but think I should have either used 4 oz of lactose or maybe a little more root beer extract. Not sure but I will be giving some samples for people to give feedback. It wasn't bad, not at all, but I think it may need some time. For that I'd have to bulk age since my plan is to carbonate in the plastic bottles then refrigerate. I didn't add kmeta or ksorbate to this batch after all.

I bottled with a split vanilla bean, 4 oz water, 4 oz of the base (from my hydro sample), 5 1/2 ounces of honey, 4 oz of brown sugar, 2 oz lactose, 2 tsp vanilla extract and 2 tbsp Home Brew brand root beer extract. I've had root beer made from it so I figured it was fine.

I got 4 1-liter bottles and a 16 ounce glass which I drank too quickly. :D

I plan to start another batch as soon as I get more vanilla beans. My really good vanilla beans developed mold somehow. Lost 12 beans out of 16. :( Not happy as they were spendy.

photo-4.jpg
 
I will be making more but 18 hours in those bottles and not one of them is hard. I truly thought they'd be solid as a rock with all that sugar.

One bottle is gone though. ;-) Pretty happy with the results but may try another extract for comparison sake.
 
Hi folks. I have all the stuff here to Make this except DME

I would like to sub 2row pale can someone let me know how much to use instead of the DME. For a one gal batch?

Thanks for taking the time out to read my post.
 
I used the LHBS root beer extract and I am having a huge problem with things settling to the point where the root beer isn't good unless I shake it. It's carbonated so shaking it isn't super ideal. I bottled these in PET bottles. Does anyone know if other extracts work better?
 
I had the same problem when I made the second batch of this. For me it was because I didn't let things settle enough before adding the extract. Let it settle more before adding the extracts next time and that should help.
 
Made this batch today. OG was 1.06. Followed it to the letter. Hope it comes out good.
 
Finally carbed after months of nothing
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409184870.640094.jpg

It was about three fingers before the pic was taken, head is weird sorta a soda pop fiz but that lingers like beer pretty tasty but think I'll go back to the original recipe for around 6-7% the 10.5 shows it self and it's not as easy drinking as the first round I did
 
I used the LHBS root beer extract and I am having a huge problem with things settling to the point where the root beer isn't good unless I shake it. It's carbonated so shaking it isn't super ideal. I bottled these in PET bottles. Does anyone know if other extracts work better?


Don't shake just sorta roll them upside down to mix it in that's how I have had to do it twice on my first batch and this last batch, wish I could remember the extract I use on the 2nd batch that didn't settle out at all but if I remember correctly it was mid winter and was able to cold crash in the garage to drop everything out so that could of been why too
 
Anyone give this a try with a different extract mix than just the Light DME? maybe 50% light, 50% darker?

Also, I have an oatmeal stout sitting on some WL002 I was considering harvesting and using on this recipe. I don't have a ton of experience in the differences in yeast, any thoughts on these ideas?
 
Anyone give this a try with a different extract mix than just the Light DME? maybe 50% light, 50% darker?



Also, I have an oatmeal stout sitting on some WL002 I was considering harvesting and using on this recipe. I don't have a ton of experience in the differences in yeast, any thoughts on these ideas?


I would think it wouldn't matter as I believe the RootBeer flavor will overpower whatever flavors you'd get from the DME. As to the yeast I think you'd be fine as again the rootbeer flavor pretty much dominates this brew.


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I would think it wouldn't matter as I believe the RootBeer flavor will overpower whatever flavors you'd get from the DME. As to the yeast I think you'd be fine as again the rootbeer flavor pretty much dominates this brew.

Gave it a try at a 50/50 light/dark mix, put a 2 gallon batch on a wlp002 yeast cake and it was done bubbling in a little over a day, going to sweeten it this upcoming weekend. thanks for the response!
 
So here is my noob question:

You said, "Boil DME, brown sugar, and lactose with about 4 cups water. Pour in primary." What do you mean by "pour in primary?" I assume that's the jug the brew is fermenting in?

Sorry for the noob question. I've only done brewing "kits" and i'm venturing into brewing my first true home brew (by true i mean without a kit).
 
So here is my noob question:

You said, "Boil DME, brown sugar, and lactose with about 4 cups water. Pour in primary." What do you mean by "pour in primary?" I assume that's the jug the brew is fermenting in?

Sorry for the noob question. I've only done brewing "kits" and i'm venturing into brewing my first true home brew (by true i mean without a kit).

yep you got it, boil and dump in. the "{Primary" is the jug that you'll be fermenting in whether its a bucket or a carboy.
 
THANKS TO ALL FOR THIS THREAD!

I was looking for a non-alcoholic root beer thread. I'm an angel. I swear. Now I found this. I've been corrupted. I'll never be the same. ...bwahahahah! Love it. I was heading to the LHBS to grab the last I needed for my first batch of cider, DEFINITELY going to do a 1-2 gallon batch of this to give the cider a little company in the hallway closet!
 
So what is the conclusion on the flavor settling to the bottom? Should we wait 3-4 weeks before bottling so most of the solids settle out?

I brewed this last night and it started bubbling an hour after placing into the carboy. And after about 4 hours, it sounded like a machine gun, it was bubbling so fast. Checked it this morning and it still is bubbling like CRAZY. Definitely recommend an overflow tube, or else you will end up with a big mess.
 
I was curious, I tried making This recipe with a little tweak and I've noticed, that after about a week of growing, it looks like a blonde ale. Not quite golden, but like a light brown. A very light brown. Is that what happened with you?

I'm asking because I have brewed root beer before and it did not have that color. Had traditional route beer color to it. Unless I would need to add coloring?
 
I was curious, I tried making This recipe with a little tweak and I've noticed, that after about a week of growing, it looks like a blonde ale. Not quite golden, but like a light brown. A very light brown. Is that what happened with you?

I'm asking because I have brewed root beer before and it did not have that color. Had traditional route beer color to it. Unless I would need to add coloring?

What do you mean when you say "growing?" I have had mine in the primary fermenter for 1 week and 2 days, and it looks like an amber ale. I can see through it.
 
Regarding Easymode's question: I'm definitely a noob, so take everything I say as deeply suspect, but I figure the color we see in our primaries relates to the type of DME and/or amount of brown sugar we used. There are no other players (grains, for example) to impart any color. Based on what I see in the little bottle sitting on my countertop, the majority of that brown "root beer color" will come from the addition of the root beer extract on bottling day.

MY TURN TO ASK A QUESTION! :ban: Hey, the recipe says let it sit in primary a week, stabilize (if kegging) let it sit another week, then keg. If I'm not kegging, does that mean two full weeks in primary? Or just the same ol' same ol' "quit trying to pin numbers on everything, Ike, leave it in primary until the SG is stable, then bottle."

THANKS!
 
Okay so I bottled a batch of this on Monday or Tuesday. I went to go check on them just to make sure they didn't explode(they are in the basement AT about 65 degrees) and all of my extract has sunk to the bottom.... I made sure it was all mixed in before bottling. What would cause my extracts to sink/separate?
 
Okay so I bottled a batch of this on Monday or Tuesday. I went to go check on them just to make sure they didn't explode(they are in the basement AT about 65 degrees) and all of my extract has sunk to the bottom.... I made sure it was all mixed in before bottling. What would cause my extracts to sink/separate?

Same has happened in mine, and has happened to others upstream, including those kegging. Discussion seems to orbit around the root beer extract adhering to the sediment in the fermented wort, and settling out over time. Anybody tried a secondary to see if they can get sediment to settle out?

Although mine isn't fully carbed yet, I couldn't wait. SLOWLY inverting the bottle a few times seemed to remix everything and tasted as well as I expect this batch will taste (I need to temperature control and probably change yeasts).
 
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