I can’t remember more than a couple brews out of 31 that had any overflow, and that is without throttling back the pump. My extract efficiency has been a bit low. I’ve been blaming the LHBS for a poor mill, believing it to be too course.
Grainfather!!
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Are you dropping the overflow down as low as it will go during mash? I don’t think I’ve ever not had wort flow through it even when I’m throttled down. This might be because I’m always using 13-15 pound grain bills
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I always leave it just above the grain, based on where the top grate is. One time I had it on the grain and it compacted, causing a stuck mash. I have mixed feelings about that top perforated grate. The only reason I even see the need for it is to keep the silicone line from burying itself in the mash.
After I dough in and mix well I put the top screen in . Push it down on the grain bed and then pull it up a tad . I throttle the pump valve back to where the wort just starts going onto the overflow pipe. It takes a little bit of adjusting to get the flow just right . I also use a sink drain screen to keep some of the grain pieces from going down the pipe as well. I think it was David Heath youtube video where I got that idea. When I sparge I push the screen down to compact the grain bed to keep it from channeling. My last big beer was 16# and projected OG was 1.081 and i hit 1.080 . I have been very pleased with the Grainfather and now I'm used to the app .
Jag that’s great to hear. I think my efficiency on Monday was 79%. I will have to try the screen trick. I just wish this thing has a 5500w heating element in it- sucks having to wait so long to get things up to temp!
Here's something not to do. Beer turned out fine.
Is that your hop spider ^^^^?
Reminds me of crocodile Dundee. .....^^^
That's not a knife , this is a knife ! Lol
That's not a knife , this is a knife ! Lol
nepatsfan1
You do drugs Danny? All the time
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Well my GF controller box had decided it wanted to fuse the heater plug after a whole 25 brews... Waiting to hear back from the company on a replacement. The crazy thing is it did not fuse totally put the plug post holes had melted plastic in it. I tried doing a test with water afterwards and you could hear the thing shorting and the plug was so freaking hot going into the box... It killed the rest of my brew season... Can't have an A/C and a Keezer going on the same 15amp circuit.
treacheroustexan
Well-Known Member
I just got my 4th replacement unit. Finally got the upgraded receptacle though. Good luck to you.
couchsending
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My original unit, purchased almost 4 years ago and prolly close to 300 brews, finally was put out to pasture... we’ll sort of.
Had the old manual control box originally. Upgraded to the connect and went through three of those. Had reverted back to the old controller at the end. Reset switch failed, bypassed it, then that all melted recently. Found a replacement “thermostat” on amazon which surprisingly worked. Pump blew in January so I replaced that. The top stand pipe bracket broke off the body in December so I had three holes right around the 7g mark so I could fill above that level and the pipe was rather loose just being held on by the bottom bracket. One of the lid levers broke off a couple weeks ago (not that it matters)
Was getting a little desperate and sick of the unit that was limping along waiting to burn the house down. Managed to find someone selling a brand new base unit with just the pump and the controller for $250 on eBay!!! Just took the parts off the old one and back in business. Bought another stand pipe and filter and now I can do back to back brews to fill a larger Uni a little more efficiently. Only have one grain basket so have to mash in one unit, then mash in the next while the first is boiling then boil in the second while the first is chilling/transferring.
Sometimes I use the CFC and sometimes I use an immersion chiller. For lagers especially I use the immersion chiller. It takes longer and is a bit of a pain but I’m fortunate my ground water is 50-53 most of the year so I can get crystal clear wort into the fermenter using the immersion chiller, and don’t have to deal with dumping trub hours later.
Yesterday’s Pils.
Had the old manual control box originally. Upgraded to the connect and went through three of those. Had reverted back to the old controller at the end. Reset switch failed, bypassed it, then that all melted recently. Found a replacement “thermostat” on amazon which surprisingly worked. Pump blew in January so I replaced that. The top stand pipe bracket broke off the body in December so I had three holes right around the 7g mark so I could fill above that level and the pipe was rather loose just being held on by the bottom bracket. One of the lid levers broke off a couple weeks ago (not that it matters)
Was getting a little desperate and sick of the unit that was limping along waiting to burn the house down. Managed to find someone selling a brand new base unit with just the pump and the controller for $250 on eBay!!! Just took the parts off the old one and back in business. Bought another stand pipe and filter and now I can do back to back brews to fill a larger Uni a little more efficiently. Only have one grain basket so have to mash in one unit, then mash in the next while the first is boiling then boil in the second while the first is chilling/transferring.
Sometimes I use the CFC and sometimes I use an immersion chiller. For lagers especially I use the immersion chiller. It takes longer and is a bit of a pain but I’m fortunate my ground water is 50-53 most of the year so I can get crystal clear wort into the fermenter using the immersion chiller, and don’t have to deal with dumping trub hours later.
Yesterday’s Pils.
I can see getting sucked into the cheap 120V systems (I did) but at the price of the grainfather you could get a system from High Gravity (and others) that is based on an actual brew kettle instead of a repurposed tea water heater. Something I noticed when fixing / rewiring my RoboBrew is that the power cord is too thin. It is a 16 gauge and that is only rated for 13A. Even if you assume your power is only 110V you are over 13A at 1500W. The elements are not low Watt density, which is why they can have scorching issues. I think because these are made in the world of 240V they just don't upgrade the wiring for 120V and hence the amount of burn out people keep talking about. When the RB when whacko (after 4 brews and sitting for about 6 mo.) I ordered an InkBird brewery controller (little over $100). It is rated for 15A but I suspect that is because of the outlets which are 15A style. Ill take a peak at the relay and see what it's actually rated for because I would like to use it on a bigger element. I am wiring a bypass switch into the RB so I can use the InkBird controller or the RB controller. If I can wire the Inkbird for 20A then I will use one of the UL Watt density BoilCoils for my HLT. The smaller one will actually fit in the RB but the smallest one needs 17A so need to make sure the InkBird can handle it.
I'm also replacing the RB power cord with a 14 gauge one. I figured it was under rated because the cord would get quite warm in use. Your power cords should NOT get warm under load.
I'm also replacing the RB power cord with a 14 gauge one. I figured it was under rated because the cord would get quite warm in use. Your power cords should NOT get warm under load.
nepatsfan1
You do drugs Danny? All the time
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They called me today and. they are sending out a new boiler and controller box. They even admitted they had some bad boxes. Well I am getting a new one and a new 3 year warranty and it is direct from them.
sgreene820
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I went through all this 3 years ago. Eventually got the old boiler's plug loose from the failed Connect unit. Both boilers work!
Mine was way out of warranty, and I got the same excellent service that you did directly from Grainfather. They are really great folks.
Ed
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
I had a connect controller with a melted plug receptacle - I was able to replace it with a new one and now I use the controller as my HLT/sparge water controller.
Nope , I just let it ride . Once my mash is done I start sparging . My temp is rising towards the boil at this time . By the time my sparge is done my wort is almost to boiling temp.
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
Yes and I love it. I use it for heating strike water, heating Sparge water, and raising to a boil. It literally doubles my power so it cuts all those times in half.
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^^^^+1 what Jag75 said. Waiting a few more minutes isn't a big deal, use the time to clean up a little.
Ed
I'm trying to get my Beersmith numbers and Grainfather app's numbers to match. It seems successful with the water numbers (except there's a quart missing in the GF sparge water calculation)
After importing the BS3 recipe file into the Grainfather app, the OG/FG/ABV and Color are all lower on GF's app.. is there something that I missed here?
Oh, and how do I change the GF app to show SRM, instead of EBC?
After importing the BS3 recipe file into the Grainfather app, the OG/FG/ABV and Color are all lower on GF's app.. is there something that I missed here?
Oh, and how do I change the GF app to show SRM, instead of EBC?
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I've had the opposite outcome. I've found the GF app to be absolutely on the money when it comes to calculations. The calculator in the book was off imo. I use Gf app to keep my recipes and I use Bru N Water for profile.
Do you use the water volume suggested by GF? I was thinking of using the recipe from Beersmith but with Grainfather's water volume suggestion.
I also use Bru'n Water
I like the idea of keeping my recipe on the GF app.
I also use Bru'n Water
I like the idea of keeping my recipe on the GF app.
Yes I use the water volume on the Gf app. Its spot on . I take that amount and input it on the Bru N Water program .
skleice
Silly Acts Brewing
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I basically use the water volumes, but I steal 1qt of sparge water and add it to the mash. I just find I get a better recirculation.
I put together a hot rod. It’s an awesome addition.
I heating rod that you set in to speed up boiling temp?
Yeah, I use it to heat/maintain temp of my sparge water, since my HLT is a cooler. I also use it to speed the heating of water to mash temperature, boil temperature, and get more boil vigor.
It was cheaper and much more versatile than buying a seperate HLT.
I hate to spam the thread, but I did make a video of the first time out with it...
Getting ready to brew tonight I had a terrible time with the bottom plate seal. Usually it takes one or two goes but I tried half a dozen times, swapped seals, and then tried warming the malt pipe, no different. Eventually got it seated. Do the seals need to be replaced periodically?
Is this a new warning when brewing?
.
Is this a new warning when brewing?
.
Hi,
Are you wetting the grain pipe/silicone ring before inserting the bottom plate with seal? I usually give the pipe a few squirts of Star-San and insert the plate at an angle so just the two opposing edges are touching the pipe, Then at the bottom, carefully rotate it into position and press into place. I hadn't seen the warning in your post yet, but I usually don't use the app as a checklist, just as a timer. Not surprising though given that some folks can be forgetful and/or careless and risk getting burned, so GF is trying to protect them. At least they give you a "I'm a grown up, don't remind me" option.
Ed
Are you wetting the grain pipe/silicone ring before inserting the bottom plate with seal? I usually give the pipe a few squirts of Star-San and insert the plate at an angle so just the two opposing edges are touching the pipe, Then at the bottom, carefully rotate it into position and press into place. I hadn't seen the warning in your post yet, but I usually don't use the app as a checklist, just as a timer. Not surprising though given that some folks can be forgetful and/or careless and risk getting burned, so GF is trying to protect them. At least they give you a "I'm a grown up, don't remind me" option.
Ed
Yep, sprayed star san as usual.
skleice
Silly Acts Brewing
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I find that the seals do loosen/stretch over time. I just replaced mine because 1 actually snapped.
I never take the bottom screen off . I just clean and leave it .
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I've forgotten the bottom seal before. Had no ill effect. Didn't even realize I had done it till clean up.
TBC
Well-Known Boozer!
it’s been awhile since I posted in this thread. If anyone needs spare parts for their grainfather Rite Brew has a bunch in their bargain bin. This link should work.
https://www.ritebrew.com/category-s/1999.htm
https://www.ritebrew.com/category-s/1999.htm
Hi TBC,
Thanks for posting that!
Ed
Thanks for posting that!
Ed
DGW
Well-Known Member
Has anyone put a steam condenser on the side of their GF? I've searched the forum and the web and haven't found a answer. If I get a GF it will be in the garage a steam condenser will make life a lot simpler.
Is this available to you?
https://grainfather.com/craft-distilling-with-the-grainfather-part-1/
https://grainfather.com/craft-distilling-with-the-grainfather-part-1/
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