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I haven't touched the gap on my grain mill in a very long time. Always use 0.025", the finest it can go.

Nevertheless, I could try widening it a little for next time. The grain bed does feel very compacted when I go in there with the spoon.
 
I haven't touched the gap on my grain mill in a very long time. Always use 0.025", the finest it can go.

Nevertheless, I could try widening it a little for next time. The grain bed does feel very compacted when I go in there with the spoon.

The finer crush can definately lead to compaction in a recirculating system. Also, things can come out of adjustment. Your mill could have tightened up more.
I remove the top screen and stir about 1/2 way through the mash. This helps with efficiency and loosens up the bed, with enough time left in the mash to reset the grain bed and clear up the wort.
I also control my recirc flow pretty tightly. I start out by barely opening the valve, then start opening the valve slowly until the level is just below the overflow and hold it there.
Or you can just be sure to throw a couple handfuls of rice hulls in each batch.
 
Do you guys think it’s possible that too fine of a crush could lead to efficiency issues?

Currently my mill is at 0.032 and I’m having issues circulating throughout the mash. It seems like in order to not flood the overflow pipe, I have to barely open the valve. It’s open so little that it actually stops flowing after awhile. Then I have to open it again and then throttle it. Then of course the flow stops again.

I’m thinking maybe I have to increase my crush and also remove the ss screen I have over the bottom plate
 
If you crush way too fine and / or use Wheat/Rye malt, the wort should still circulate fine through the grain bed. The sparge will be the problem. You can always use oat/rice husks to alleviate any problems. I also found out that when you have a grainbill that will likely cause a slower sparge, I would add less strike water, to get a proper recirculation, otherwise the malt pipe would be flooded.
 
If you crush way too fine and / or use Wheat/Rye malt, the wort should still circulate fine through the grain bed. The sparge will be the problem. You can always use oat/rice husks to alleviate any problems. I also found out that when you have a grainbill that will likely cause a slower sparge, I would add less strike water, to get a proper recirculation, otherwise the malt pipe would be flooded.

I have wheat and oats and rice hulls in the recipe. Sparge is slow but usually never a problem. Maybe I need to reduce grain to water ratio. I currently have it set to 1.70qts/lb. This was fine when I brewed my Belgian blonde (got 85% efficiency) but my NEIPAs are always in the 65% range
 
You should get a good efficiency with a fine crush, at least I get a better efficiency when I go with a fine crush. Whenever I have more than 3 lbs of wheat I add a bunch of rice hulls and have no issues. I usually go with at least 1.5 lbs/qt of water. If when you are done doughing in and it is really thick, maybe add a little more water, but it should thin out over and hour. I also fly sparge using an elevated bottling bucket with the hose run into the top of the GF and let it run at a steady pace so I don’t have to babysit the sparge using a big cup and pour every so often... mainly because I’m lazy, but these methods always get me at least 75-80% efficiency.
 
You should get a good efficiency with a fine crush, at least I get a better efficiency when I go with a fine crush. Whenever I have more than 3 lbs of wheat I add a bunch of rice hulls and have no issues. I usually go with at least 1.5 lbs/qt of water. If when you are done doughing in and it is really thick, maybe add a little more water, but it should thin out over and hour. I also fly sparge using an elevated bottling bucket with the hose run into the top of the GF and let it run at a steady pace so I don’t have to babysit the sparge using a big cup and pour every so often... mainly because I’m lazy, but these methods always get me at least 75-80% efficiency.

How much of the rice hulls are you adding? I’ve been doing 4oz. Might have to try 8oz next time. Also, how fast is your recirc during the mash? I have to keep my valve barely open, otherwise it will overflow. Do you have a ss screen on top of the bottom plate as well? I’ve been using the screen since my second batch ever with the GF since the first batch had a ton of grains make their way into the wort.

I’m also wondering if the cause of my temperature deviations are a result of a slow recirculation. When I set my mash temp to let’s say 155, the temp at the top of the grain bed is usually 6-8* cooler.
 
I use 4-8 oz depends on the amount of wheat/oats. I have the recirc at full blast, never have an issue and use top and bottom plates every time. You can try the kitchen sink screen thing that people put on top of the overflow pipe to eliminate grain sneaking in.
 
I use 4-8 oz depends on the amount of wheat/oats. I have the recirc at full blast, never have an issue and use top and bottom plates every time. You can try the kitchen sink screen thing that people put on top of the overflow pipe to eliminate grain sneaking in.

Ok cool, thanks! So you don’t have an additional screen over the bottom plate? I can’t imagine having the recirc on full blast lol. It overflows already with the valve barely open. I’m thinking my ss screen on the bottom is restricting the flow.

What’s your mill gap set to? Next batch I’m going to increase rice hulls, remove ss screen, and increase gap setting. Let’s see if it helps with the recirc and efficiency.
 
Ok cool, thanks! So you don’t have an additional screen over the bottom plate? I can’t imagine having the recirc on full blast lol. It overflows already with the valve barely open. I’m thinking my ss screen on the bottom is restricting the flow.

What’s your mill gap set to? Next batch I’m going to increase rice hulls, remove ss screen, and increase gap setting. Let’s see if it helps with the recirc and efficiency.
If you are milling your own grain, try conditioning the barley. https://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/01/16/malt-conditioning/
There is a link to the process. I mill to .028. With most batches(all barley) i recirc at full speed (or close to it) without hitting the over flow pipe. There is a rye pale that i do(33%rye malt, 9% flaked rye) that i add about 8-12 oz of rice hulls, otherwise its just a handfull or 2.
 
If you are milling your own grain, try conditioning the barley. https://www.brewersfriend.com/2010/01/16/malt-conditioning/
There is a link to the process. I mill to .028. With most batches(all barley) i recirc at full speed (or close to it) without hitting the over flow pipe. There is a rye pale that i do(33%rye malt, 9% flaked rye) that i add about 8-12 oz of rice hulls, otherwise its just a handfull or 2.

I’ve been conditioning my grains too. It definitely helps. I’m going to add more rice hulls next time to see if it helps with the recirculation. You don’t have a supplemental ss screen over your bottom plate? Any issues with small bits of grains making their way through the bottom plate?
 
I have my mill set pretty fine, I like the better efficiency. Also, I use the following water formula and have never had an issue.

Mash water = (Grain weight (lbs) x .34) + .9

Sparge water = (6.4 - mash water volume) + (grain weight (lbs) x .1)

I use a spreadsheet for this as it makes it easy.
 
I’ve been conditioning my grains too. It definitely helps. I’m going to add more rice hulls next time to see if it helps with the recirculation. You don’t have a supplemental ss screen over your bottom plate? Any issues with small bits of grains making their way through the bottom plate?
No extra screens at all. Today i brewed an ESB with no rice hulls. Recirced at full speed. I've never had an issue with grain getting through. I figure if it does, it gets picked up in the recirc and ends up on top.
 
No extra screens at all. Today i brewed an ESB with no rice hulls. Recirced at full speed. I've never had an issue with grain getting through. I figure if it does, it gets picked up in the recirc and ends up on top.

I have had slight issues with grain getting stuck in the recirc check valve spring, once I removed it, o more clogging issues.

Thanks guys! You’ve convinced me to change a few things during my brew process. Since you guys are able to recirc at full speed, have you measured or noticed consistent temps across the grain bed? For awhile my beers kept over attenuating but then I realized my actual mash temps were much lower than what the GF said. I contribute that to a low recirc rate
 
Mine seem to be right when I have checked with a thermometer. granted, I am on the old controller but will be upgrading to the new connect controller soon. My only issue I have encountered was trying to mash out, where I set the temp at 170 and it struggles to hold it, hopefully the new controller fixes this issue, which I believe it will.
 
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if im using WHEAT anything, im throwing 2lbs of rice hulls in. cause in the end who gives a sht. wheat always gives me problems unless i use a shtton of rice hulls, a few handfulls aint gonna do it billy!
 
Hi @shortyz
Are you sure about 2lbs? One pound of rice hulls has about the same volume as a gallon, four ounces is about a quart. I've never had to use more than four ounces even with an oatmeal milk stout that was super heavy with oats to get a good flow. Then again, I condition my grain and I don't grind it down to flour. I keep my gap at about 0.040 and just extend the mash time if I think I need higher efficiency. Ed
 
I do believe most people use 1lb of rice hulls per 5 gallon batch. I think 2 is overkill. However I've never used 2 lbs so that's just a guess.
 
This has probably come up a lot but I can’t find specific answers. I’ve been having an issue for the last six or so sessions where the counter flow chiller get clocked just before it’s finished. I’ve had to use a bike pump to flush it out each time. It’s just from regular grain residue (i use hop bags so it’s not that). Anyone know good fixes to prevent gumming up the wort chiller ?
 
This has probably come up a lot but I can’t find specific answers. I’ve been having an issue for the last six or so sessions where the counter flow chiller get clocked just before it’s finished. I’ve had to use a bike pump to flush it out each time. It’s just from regular grain residue (i use hop bags so it’s not that). Anyone know good fixes to prevent gumming up the wort chiller ?

Have you taken the ball and spring out of the valve ? No grains should be getting through it enough to clog. Try running pbw through it after your done . Then run hot water through to rinse . I usually run for15 min hot water and pbw then a 10 min rinse. I dont know if you could damage something on the inside by using an air pump.
 
Dum, dum, dum,
Another one bites the dust!

Plugging the recipe into the laptop this morning and smelled burning. Turned around to a smoking controller. The worst part is I was making a kettle sour :(
20190428_074350.jpeg
 
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I can't understand why something of this price has an issue with the plug . How does this ever happen?? I hope I never have an issue with mine .

Could it be from water/wort dripping on the controller then running down to the underside and contacting the plug?
 
Grainfather customer service is hit or miss. When I had an issue all they said to me was contact the resale location where I got mine. Fortunately for me, mine was not as major of an issue as yours. I am seriously considering selling mine and going with the Ss Brewtech single vessel system when they finally release it. I’ve had too many issues with the GF at this point.
 
Love my GF but this company rolled the dice making only a 110/120V version for the US. Sure they got more profit and wider customer base but also more returns.

I guess I’m gonna have to buy this thing again when they come out with a 220. I don’t see how they can make a convertible kit for existing customers.

I am 100% on board with their product tho. Save the electrical issues it’s very well built.
 
Hi. Even with a transformer, it's still going to have the same amperage draw on the circuit. The only way to get the benefit of a 220v GF, and for it to work as intended, is to put it on a true 220v circuit. Look at the bright side, you saved yourself $70! Ed
 
I can’t insert quotes for some reason but this is a reply to the comment on a clogged pump. I take apart the arm of the pump and clean out the spring and ball every brew. It always has grain gunk in it. I ran PBW through it last brew, and it still clogged on this one. I suppose i’ll try taking apart the whole thing next time.
 

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