- Joined
- Jul 22, 2013
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- 5
I plan to, but have not found them in stock yet. I have had a few problems with the filter, so I’d be happy to have the additional option in place.
Yeah, that's what got me to pull the trigger. Just got it.
I also just got my grains last night. I don't yet have a mill so I asked for them crushed. The grain looks barely cracked, like most are intact but they might have a crack inside. Should I even use this in my Grainfather or try to get it re-milled? It was a kit and I don't have extra to accommodate a 60% efficiency.
Sorry for another post but I was reading through this thread and it seems like the filter being the most common issue. I saw David Heath talking about a RB false bottom that will work perfectly as an upgrade part for the GF. Anyone try this?
The reason GF uses the cylinder filter off to the side is to allow access to the bottom during the boil. Just my preference, but I would never run a false bottom in the GF. My friend with a Robobrew dislikes the false bottom for this very reason.
The 2 main problems with the GF filter are easily addressed. 1. Cut a piece of SS wire about 3 inches long and run it through the diameter of the filter just below the cap when it is installed. Pull the wire ends up over the top of the cap and twist the ends like a bread-tie. This will keep the cap from falling off during boil and can be kept in the filter for the next use. 2. Install a small SS hose clamp on the filter outlet, install the filter with clamp onto the GF pump inlet, and then tighten the clamp to apply just enough pressure to hold the filter nose on but not so tight that it cannot be removed or placed back on. Once you have this setting there is no need to touch it and it will work every time without having to adjust it repeatedly. Also remove the useless ball and spring. They restrict flow even when clean and when they catch and trap matter they can shut down the flow entirely.
I have 2 grainfathers with well over 100 batches done in each. I love the GF filter design. I have done everything from light lagers to double IPA's with 6 or more oz of hops through the boil and have never had any problems. Having the wort flow through the hops as they build up on the filter is a plus to me. The slower flow takes a little more time to fill the fermenter, but it also makes the counter-chiller work even better. After removing the spring and ball I have never had zero flow. Ditch the ball and spring and keep the filter.
I always wondered about that. Is it that easy to take apart,clean up and reinstall? Pretty self explanatory?
I always wondered about that. Is it that easy to take apart,clean up and reinstall? Pretty self explanatory?
I'm asking this as well about the pump. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but my GF is still under warranty, so I don't want to start taking stuff apart that doesn't need it. I've had my GF less than a year, but I've been brewing for over 7 years, all grain for about 6.5 of those. So I know how gunked up things can become if you don't scrub the crap off of them. Is the pump easy to take apart/put back together? And also, is it worth worrying about until an issue arises. I'm the type of person who likes to stay on top of things and would rather clean now than have a crappy brew day.
Ive whirlpooled with a paddle and drill, but i think i get the same results from just recirculating(and its a lot less work)People seem to be a big fan of whirlpooling, I haven't yet gotten a paddle for this but I plan to get something like the Jaybird whirlpool paddle and throw it in my drill.
Anyone else do something simular?
Ive whirlpooled with a paddle and drill, but i think i get the same results from just recirculating(and its a lot less work)
The Grainfather does not automatically boil during sparge unless you set it to. It never happened to me.