Grainfather!!

[jrcrilly]

I think I see both the ball valve and the check valve, which would make sense for his date code. Might have the updated chiller as well.

 

[BrewBrains]

[*]I wish the chiller hose that connects to the pump was a little bit longer. I had a boilover when it was sitting on the grainfather and had nowhere to put it



I have an issue with that short chiller input hose as well. I would like to lengthen that hose to get the thing off the top of the GF and connect to a hop rocket, etc. Does anybody know what that hex-like hose connection on the chiller is called and how to replace it with a longer silicone hose? Thanks!🍺

 

[52hurtz]

Came with ball valve and check valve, the red lever is on the backside of the pics. The discharge pipe was already installed, doesn't have the clamp at the pump base, here are pics of the filter, pump, and chiller - how do I know if it's updated?

 

[jrcrilly]

Everything looks current to me.

 

[MilwaukeeBrewGuy]

Yep it all looks current. I think there was some confusion and part of it may have been caused by me.

Yes, there was version 1, but that was only released to the blokes across the pond. Version 2 is what was shipped to the US. Version 3 i assume is the the one with the connect controller.

Your chiller does look way different than mine though! What is the wording on it? It looks like it has a tube or tunnel for the wort return hose. Also you have the oetiker calmps and not the worm drive ones like i have. Your water hoses are also not transparent like mine are.

Did you put on the clamp at the pump filter?

 

[MilwaukeeBrewGuy]

[*]I wish the chiller hose that connects to the pump was a little bit longer. I had a boilover when it was sitting on the grainfather and had nowhere to put it



I have an issue with that short chiller input hose as well. I would like to lengthen that hose to get the thing off the top of the GF and connect to a hop rocket, etc. Does anybody know what that hex-like hose connection on the chiller is called and how to replace it with a longer silicone hose? Thanks!🍺

I haven't unscrewed mine yet, but i believe once it is unscrewed you will simply find the hose attached to a hose barb.

 

[d-bone]

[*]I wish the chiller hose that connects to the pump was a little bit longer. I had a boilover when it was sitting on the grainfather and had nowhere to put it



I have an issue with that short chiller input hose as well. I would like to lengthen that hose to get the thing off the top of the GF and connect to a hop rocket, etc. Does anybody know what that hex-like hose connection on the chiller is called and how to replace it with a longer silicone hose? Thanks!🍺

go to AiH. they sell replacement hose for the chiller. comes in 3 ft lengths. I cut mine to about 2 ft.

 

[jrcrilly]

Your chiller does look way different than mine though!

That is the same chiller version mine came with in September.

 

[elreplica]

Yep it all looks current. I think there was some confusion and part of it may have been caused by me.

Yes, there was version 1, but that was only released to the blokes across the pond. Version 2 is what was shipped to the US. Version 3 i assume is the the one with the connect controller.

Your chiller does look way different than mine though! What is the wording on it? It looks like it has a tube or tunnel for the wort return hose. Also you have the oetiker calmps and not the worm drive ones like i have. Your water hoses are also not transparent like mine are.

Did you put on the clamp at the pump filter?

Yeah, it must be a new iteration of the chiller that shipped with V3 (new controller elsewhere but Can& US) Here is a pic from a New Zealand vendor...not sure the tube benefits...View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1484153146.288624.jpg

 

[RedlegEd]

[*]I wish the chiller hose that connects to the pump was a little bit longer. I had a boilover when it was sitting on the grainfather and had nowhere to put it



I have an issue with that short chiller input hose as well. I would like to lengthen that hose to get the thing off the top of the GF and connect to a hop rocket, etc. Does anybody know what that hex-like hose connection on the chiller is called and how to replace it with a longer silicone hose? Thanks!🍺

go to AiH. they sell replacement hose for the chiller. comes in 3 ft lengths. I cut mine to about 2 ft.

I got this tubing to extend my recirculation tubing when using the micro tube. I think it's the same size, but can't verify since I'm on the road. Ed

 

[scallopking]

i got this tubing from amazon to extend the chiller output length and am going to use the same to replace the chiller input tubing.

White SiliconeTubing, 3/8"ID, 3/4"OD, 3/16" Wall, 25' Length

 

[MilwaukeeBrewGuy]

Yeah, it must be a new iteration of the chiller that shipped with V3 (new controller elsewhere but Can& US) Here is a pic from a New Zealand vendor...not sure the tube benefits...View attachment 384153

Im thinking that tube is nice for when you want to throw in some hops but the chiller is sitting on the grainfather. That tube, if it goes through should send the hops to their home.

 

[jrcrilly]

It does go through. I think they did that because it is easier to build that way, and because it makes the chiller stable when placed on top of the Gfather, with the tube end fitting nicely into the hole in the lid. I use it to run the chiller output down through the tube and into the kettle. I don't think many Gfather users do this, but on my conventional rig I always recirculate back into the boil kettle and take the whole thing down to pitching temperature. Makes sense to me to do the same thing with this one.

 

[Kampenken]

It does go through. I think they did that because it is easier to build that way, and because it makes the chiller stable when placed on top of the Gfather, with the tube end fitting nicely into the hole in the lid. I use it to run the chiller output down through the tube and into the kettle. I don't think many Gfather users do this, but on my conventional rig I always recirculate back into the boil kettle and take the whole thing down to pitching temperature. Makes sense to me to do the same thing with this one.

Holy crap, you must be taking a long time to cool, no?? After about 5-10sec of recirc with cold water on, the outlet hose goes right into my conical. Last time, with my tap temp at a chilly 49F, I dialed back the cooling water flow rate big time, as at 1/2 way it was chilling the wort down to <60F and that was with the wort flow wide open!

 

[jrcrilly]

Wort comes out of my chillers (either one) at 65 degrees or so. At several gallons per minute, it doesn't take long for the 10 gallons in the boil kettle to pass through so it is all chilled within the kettle. Then I stop the whirlopool and let everything settle into the center of the kettle, where it will remain, and transfer the good stuff into the fermenter. The gfather has a smaller flow rate, but less volume. I didn't time it but it didn't seem to take any longer (though I had to whirlpool manually).

With either system, I could go straight into the fermenter instead but I like to drop the cold break into the boil kettle and leave it there rather than letting it settle in the fermenter

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Wort comes out of my chillers (either one) at 65 degrees or so. At several gallons per minute, it doesn't take long for the 10 gallons in the boil kettle to pass through so it is all chilled within the kettle. Then I stop the whirlopool and let everything settle into the center of the kettle, where it will remain, and transfer the good stuff into the fermenter. The gfather has a smaller flow rate, but less volume. I didn't time it but it didn't seem to take any longer (though I had to whirlpool manually).

With either system, I could go straight into the fermenter instead but I like to drop the cold break into the boil kettle and leave it there rather than letting it settle in the fermenter

I'm having just the opposite. Mine takes FOREVER to chill down even with cold ground water temps. I think the main problem is that I throw all my hops directly into the boil. The aroma and flavor is way better that way and just better isomerization period. Today I brewed a Vanilla blonde and had to use 2 ounces of hops because more beer sent me a batch with super low A.A. @2.5%. It was supposed to be 4% A.A. so I had to use way more hops to get to my 20IBUs. Anyways, with just 2 oz of hops, it clogged the small GF filter and the wort barely trickles out.

On my 3 vessel system, I always recirculate at flameout for a while for hop stands and chilling. Plus it works well for a whirlpool.

On my next brew, I will try seeing what the wort coming out of the chiller on the first pass is. Maybe it's cool enough to go straight to the fermenter. That would make things a lot easier.

FYI, I just ordered mine in August and got the old style chiller as well. Mine was drop shipped straight from Grainfather and they sent me a model assembled in 2015. The rest was updated.

 

[WesM63]

Yea, don't waste time trying to chill the entire volume. Go straight to the fermenter.

(I usually chill the full volume to 170F for a hop stand, but straight to fermenter after that)

 

[Diamonddave74]

Connect on presale for us in the states. 150 via aih

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Yea, don't waste time trying to chill the entire volume. Go straight to the fermenter.

(I usually chill the full volume to 170F for a hop stand, but straight to fermenter after that)

There has to be a better way for filtering on these things. What I may do is figure out a way to put on a bigger filter on top of the small one so I doesn't get clogged so easy. I tried using the Trub Trapper but it didn't work well. That small filter just gets clogged way too easy and restricts the flow which makes it a hell of a time trying to cool.

On another note, it may be mentioned somewhere here in this thread, but what grain crush are you guys setting your mills for? I just bought a Barley Crusher and at the stock gap setting of .035, it is too much of a crush for the grainfather, but perfect for my 3 vessel setup.

 

[Kampenken]

There has to be a better way for filtering on these things. What I may do is figure out a way to put on a bigger filter on top of the small one so I doesn't get clogged so easy. I tried using the Trub Trapper but it didn't work well. That small filter just gets clogged way too easy and restricts the flow which makes it a hell of a time trying to cool.

On another note, it may be mentioned somewhere here in this thread, but what grain crush are you guys setting your mills for? I just bought a Barley Crusher and at the stock gap setting of .035, it is too much of a crush for the grainfather, but perfect for my 3 vessel setup.

I'm beginning to think it's the pump not filter that's at issue. I wouldn't mind one a bit stronger but with my hop basket (and no concern with utilization) it runs only a bit slower than when recirc for mash or cleaning.

Checked my cereal killer and was surprised I'm closer to 40. I do get flour. I think it's cc gap. My gap tool is circular not the file type so hard to check.

 

[Kampenken]

Connect on presale for us in the states. 150 via aih

That will push MSRP on GF to +1k. With that new mash and boil out at 300 (no pump, no CFC), they better hope folks don't like the M&B, which has a time delay built in. A pump and CFC build for 2-300 is reasonable.

At any rate I will be looking for reviews on this here!

 

[WesM63]

There has to be a better way for filtering on these things. What I may do is figure out a way to put on a bigger filter on top of the small one so I doesn't get clogged so easy. I tried using the Trub Trapper but it didn't work well. That small filter just gets clogged way too easy and restricts the flow which makes it a hell of a time trying to cool.

On another note, it may be mentioned somewhere here in this thread, but what grain crush are you guys setting your mills for? I just bought a Barley Crusher and at the stock gap setting of .035, it is too much of a crush for the grainfather, but perfect for my 3 vessel setup.

Personally, the only problem I've had with the filter is when I knocked the end cap off trying to push the hop matter around. I typically use a hop spider (arbor fab, 400micron). My last batch was 6oz of leaf, no hop spider, zero issues.

I might sound like a broken record, but I've never had efficiency or crush problems either. I've had a finer crush from my LBHS and what I would consider a normal crush from online retailers such as morebeer, farmhouse brewing, etc. It typically get 80% or better efficiency. (last two batches were 82% and 83%)

 

[elreplica]

Connect on presale for us in the states. 150 via aih

Okay...I'm usually pretty good at following a thread and seeing we're sharing here...what is being sold at AIH for $150? The info on this thread leads me to believe it's not the GF controller...inquiring minds need to know[emoji106]

 

[Teesquar]

Okay...I'm usually pretty good at following a thread and seeing we're sharing here...what is being sold at AIH for $150? The info on this thread leads me to believe it's not the GF controller...inquiring minds need to know[emoji106]

The new Connect controller is on preorder from Adventures in Homebrewing for $150.00. 155 with shipping for me.

Also, for the inquiring minds ... https://www.grainfather.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/V3_GF_CNTRL_BOX.pdf

 

[elreplica]

The new Connect controller is on preorder from Adventures in Homebrewing for $150.00. 155 with shipping for me.



Also, for the inquiring minds ... https://www.grainfather.com/media/wysiwyg/PDFs/V3_GF_CNTRL_BOX.pdf

Ah, thanks. I preordered mine too...$179 canuckbucks

 

[RedlegEd]

There has to be a better way for filtering on these things. What I may do is figure out a way to put on a bigger filter on top of the small one so I doesn't get clogged so easy. I tried using the Trub Trapper but it didn't work well. That small filter just gets clogged way too easy and restricts the flow which makes it a hell of a time trying to cool.

On another note, it may be mentioned somewhere here in this thread, but what grain crush are you guys setting your mills for? I just bought a Barley Crusher and at the stock gap setting of .035, it is too much of a crush for the grainfather, but perfect for my 3 vessel setup.

Hi. To your first point, like many others, I use a hop basket from Arborfab. I know you get better utilization by not using one, but I guess that's a concession I'm willing to make to keep the filter from plugging up. I also modified the filter end cap to keep it from getting knocked off when I stir, as well as added a hose clamp to the filter tube. It hasn't been knocked off since.

To your second question. I precondition my grain with 1-2% of water (by wt.) I also use a Schmidling Malt Mill set with factory gap of 0.042-45. I usually get 80% or better efficiency, and no problems with "stuck" recirculation or extra grain gunk in the kettle.

BTW, thanks for your service!

Ed

 

[skraeling]

Welp just ordered mine. Was my birthday gift to myself.

 

[RedlegEd]

Welp just ordered mine. Was my birthday gift to myself.

Happy Birthday! Ed

 

[brewman !]

I too will add a tip, this on chilling in case you are unfamiliar with a CFC (as was I) and haven't read all the previous comments on the chilling. At end of boil recirc thru chiller back into the boiler for 10 min to sanitize without the cold water on. Then turn on your cold, close the red valve 1/2 way down and feel output until it turns cold (about 30 sec tops). Stop valve, move hose into fermenter and re-open to 1/2 way or so. I found that the water from the chiller out (red) runs about 8-10 degrees warmer than the chilled wort. So, for now, I measure the outlet water and adjust both the cold water supply and the red valve to get to my desired temp by taking temp measurements of the outlet water (I'll capture a cup's worth in the sink).

fyi- if you're used to an I/C, the CFC outlet water is way cooler, so I don't capture for cleaning.

Sorry to quote such an old post, but nobody seemed to pick up on it, so I thought I'd drag it back from the dead...

In case some of the people new to CFCs don't know, COUNTER flow chillers are supposed to be used by running the water in the reverse direction to the wort. The chilling water sound be going in the same end of the CFC as the wort is coming out of.

You'll know if you got this right when the water coming out of the CFC is hot ! Like 180F hot. If you are running the wort slow and have the water flow rate optimized, the wort should come out at near the tap temperature and the water will come out at near the boil kettle temperature.

CFCs are WAY more efficient with the water running in the opposite direction of the wort.

 

[brewman !]

I've read the first 80 pages of this thread... I'll keep reading, but I'd like to ask some questions that I'm not seeing discussed before I get all the way through.

1) Why do people call the GF heater a boiler ? How does the heating system in a GF work ? I don't see an exposed element in the main vessel. Is there a stove top type element below the bottom of the main vessel that heats the bottom "floor" of the main vessel ? Or is it something else ?

1A) The documentation says there is a 1600 watt element as well as a 600 watt element. Which one is used for mashing ? Could you mod it to run both at the same time ? (120V x 20A = 2400 watts, 1600 + 600 = 2200 watts)

1B) Is scorching the mash or the wort ever a problem with the GF ?

2) Where exactly is the check valve that people keep talking about ? What backflow is it preventing ?

3) Why is there a filter on the pump inlet ? One of the beautiful things about a CFC is that it is *almost* immune to hop plugging. So why is there a filter on the inlet on the pump ?

4) What water/grain ratio does one use in GF mashes ? Just like you'd use in a conventional mash tun ? Or something different ?

5) What are the dimensions and size of the main vessel and the mash tun vessel ?

6) What are the water calculations everyone keeps talking about and why are they so important ?

7) Is there a way to whirlpool the boil and create a hop debris cone in the middle ?

8) Is the CFC large enough ? Can it cool the batch before hops added at flame out lose their potency ?

9) Where is the GF measuring temperature ? Same sensor for the boil as for the mash ? Has anyone stuck a thermometer in the mash grain to see how it compares to the controller reading ?

10) If you could improve anything about the GF, what would it be ? Faster heating, larger batch size, bigger mash tun... what else ? People moving to a GF from a good 3 vessel system, what are you missing ? What can't you do with a GF that you were doing with your 3V ?

Thanks !

Edit: just got the answer to question #2 on page 88, post # 872:

The only downside is safety. If you have the pump running, flow valve open, and you unscrew the arm/chiller, you'll shoot boiling wort into the sky/your face. If you unscrew with the check valve in, the ball inside will not allow wort to shoot out.

If you take it out just make sure to close the flow valve and turn off the pump before screwing/unscrewing the arm or chiller.

Edit II: found the answer to #7 on page 93, post #927:

Whirlpooling and letting it sit for 10min or so before beginning chilling/pumping will leave most of the hop and trub materials in a central cone and you won't have as many clog issues.. Removing the safety spring when it comes time to chill also removes further restriction (I've left mine out permanently)
No issues even with massive hop loads.

Edit III: found some discussion to answer #9 on page 98, in various posts. Tango10 gets it going with this:

Looking to see if people have tested the grain bed temperature once your system is mashing? I did a run today with 9.5 pounds for grain and tested the grain bed temp 4 times to see what its actual temp was. Mine was at least 5 to 6 degrees below the controllers set temp. The controller was reading the correct temp, but actual grain bed was cooler.

In case people aren't aware, this can be an issue with conventional mash tuns as well.