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Graff (Malty, slightly hopped cider)

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I was wondering if anyone would be willing to help me out, with a BIAB stove top recipe for the all grain brew? I was wanting to do this on the stovetop and I think my 1G paint strainer bad would be a good way to go with this one... :)

thoughts?

That's exactly how I did mine. I am an all grain brewer, but I did the "beer" portion of this as BIAB in a paint strainer bag on my stove top.
 
That's exactly how I did mine. I am an all grain brewer, but I did the "beer" portion of this as BIAB in a paint strainer bag on my stove top.

SWEET! yeah i figure for this amount of wort, it made the most sense...how did you do yours? did you still just use the same volumes and everything exactly as mentioned in the OP's recipe?

thanks for your reply.:mug:
 
SWEET! yeah i figure for this amount of wort, it made the most sense...how did you do yours? did you still just use the same volumes and everything exactly as mentioned in the OP's recipe?

thanks for your reply.:mug:

You bet, happy to help. I used .5 lbs of Crystal 120L, an ounce of torrified wheat, and a half ounce of Centennial. All the volumes I used were the same as OP. Used a colander to sparge and squeezed that bag.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
You bet, happy to help. I used .5 lbs of Crystal 120L, an ounce of torrified wheat, and a half ounce of Centennial. All the volumes I used were the same as OP. Used a colander to sparge and squeezed that bag.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

ok, perfect sounds great...I think I will give that a try...I just got 10G of fresh pressed cider, and i'm going to make my second batch of this with 1/2 of that...and then I think I'm going to try to make Upstate Mike's caramel apple cider with the other 1/2....I just hope I can find liquid cinnamon extract, I think I read that seems to work best for that recipe.

thanks soo much again for your help.
 
How do you squeeze it?

It might sound odd, but I think its just with his hands... ;) or atleast that is all that I do.

if there is an easier or more fancy way...I would love to hear it :)...

When I did BIAB full-scale (6 gallon batches) I had full arm rubber gloves I would use to squeeze the bag.

For this small recipe I put the grain bag in a colander and the put a bowl on the grain in the colander and pushed.
 
When I did BIAB full-scale (6 gallon batches) I had full arm rubber gloves I would use to squeeze the bag.

For this small recipe I put the grain bag in a colander and the put a bowl on the grain in the colander and pushed.

sounds exactly like what I was planning on doing as well... :ban: thanks for your reply again...
 
I was wondering if anyone would be willing to help me out, with a BIAB stove top recipe for the all grain brew? I was wanting to do this on the stovetop and I think my 1G paint strainer bad would be a good way to go with this one... :)

thoughts?

Do you want to do all grain, instead of adding DME? or just to contain your steeping grains?

I did small BIB AG to add to AJ. (used gallon paint strainer bag)
4lbs two row
1lb 60L
2oz flaked barley
two gallons of 150 degree water, 60min, raised to 170 and held 10 min.
I just tied top off bag and left twine long, hung over pot to drain.
I then boiled for 60min, split hop addition at boil and flame out.
I added to 3 1/2 gallons AJ, for just over five gallon batch.

This turned out well, a bit darker, HG and more work than steep and DME. I used it as dipping toe in AG.
 
You bet, happy to help. I used .5 lbs of Crystal 120L, an ounce of torrified wheat, and a half ounce of Centennial. All the volumes I used were the same as OP. Used a colander to sparge and squeezed that bag.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I haven't steeped specialty grains in a longtime but according to byo.com and Jamil Zainasheff's book "Brewing Classic Styles" you should not squeeze the bag, has you will be extracting tannins.
 
I haven't steeped specialty grains in a longtime but according to byo.com and Jamil Zainasheff's book "Brewing Classic Styles" you should not squeeze the bag, has you will be extracting tannins.

oh, what should we do then? just let it drip/drain all on its own? how long should we let it rest/sit for?

thanks for the replies all :)
 
Do you want to do all grain, instead of adding DME? or just to contain your steeping grains?

I did small BIB AG to add to AJ. (used gallon paint strainer bag)
4lbs two row
1lb 60L
2oz flaked barley
two gallons of 150 degree water, 60min, raised to 170 and held 10 min.
I just tied top off bag and left twine long, hung over pot to drain.
I then boiled for 60min, split hop addition at boil and flame out.
I added to 3 1/2 gallons AJ, for just over five gallon batch.

This turned out well, a bit darker, HG and more work than steep and DME. I used it as dipping toe in AG.

for now, no...I bought some DME from my homebrew clubs bulk buy, and I'm not sure if I will need it for anything else now, LOL...but thanks for all the info, very good to know I have options.:fro:
 
oh, what should we do then? just let it drip/drain all on its own? how long should we let it rest/sit for?

thanks for the replies all :)

Yeah, just let it drain for however long you can stand i guess :) I've been reading about partial mash the last few hours and i seen it mentioned a few times now, not to squeeze the bag.

Jamil's book says 30min to steep but if your going to include base malt that changes.

Love to hear from people more knowledgeable in partial mashing.

I like to make graff with 2 row instead of DME, its way cheaper. Just not sure on the volume of the strike/mash water and AJ. I figure i would use 4lbs of 2 row.

According to the guideline in the book - you should use 1.5quarts to 1 pound of grain. So with the 4lbs of 2 row plus the 0.5lb crystal that would be about 6.75qt or - little over 1.5gal of water for 4.5lbs of grain with no sparge.

After the 60min boil it will reduce some so probably just partial mash with 1.5 gallons, boil, cool and add 4 gallons of AJ?
 
Yeah, just let it drain for however long you can stand i guess :) I've been reading about partial mash the last few hours and i seen it mentioned a few times now, not to squeeze the bag.

Jamil's book says 30min to steep but if your going to include base malt that changes.

Love to hear from people more knowledgeable in partial mashing.

I like to make graff with 2 row instead of DME, its way cheaper. Just not sure on the volume of the strike/mash water and AJ. I figure i would use 4lbs of 2 row.

According to the guideline in the book - you should use 1.5quarts to 1 pound of grain. So with the 4lbs of 2 row plus the 0.5lb crystal that would be about 6.75qt or - little over 1.5gal of water for 4.5lbs of grain with no sparge.

After the 60min boil it will reduce some so probably just partial mash with 1.5 gallons, boil, cool and add 4 gallons of AJ?

thanks again for your reply and info. I would also like to hear from seasoned veterans on how they would do this...I plan to make up my next Graff in 1-2 days.

thanks,
Scott
 
thanks again for your reply and info. I would also like to hear from seasoned veterans on how they would do this...I plan to make up my next Graff in 1-2 days.

thanks,
Scott

You could always just follow the OP and steep your grains in .75 gallons water and sparge with .25 gallons instead of squeezing. .
 
You could always just follow the OP and steep your grains in .75 gallons water and sparge with .25 gallons instead of squeezing. .

even with a BIAB set up instead of the normal all grain set ups? that was what I was wondering about, if its literally one to one, no matter what set up you run with.

thanks, Scott
 
even with a BIAB set up instead of the normal all grain set ups? that was what I was wondering about, if its literally one to one, no matter what set up you run with.

thanks, Scott

I might be confused? You are still using extract right?
 
I might be confused? You are still using extract right?

following the OP's directions exactly for ingredients, however for the "stepping of the grains" I was thinking to steep them in a 1 gallon paint strainer bag, for ease of use and cleaning later on :ban:

then after that, still using the DME, and everything again as per OP recipe.
 
Yeah, just let it drain for however long you can stand i guess :) I've been reading about partial mash the last few hours and i seen it mentioned a few times now, not to squeeze the bag.

Jamil's book says 30min to steep but if your going to include base malt that changes.

Love to hear from people more knowledgeable in partial mashing.

I like to make graff with 2 row instead of DME, its way cheaper. Just not sure on the volume of the strike/mash water and AJ. I figure i would use 4lbs of 2 row.

According to the guideline in the book - you should use 1.5quarts to 1 pound of grain. So with the 4lbs of 2 row plus the 0.5lb crystal that would be about 6.75qt or - little over 1.5gal of water for 4.5lbs of grain with no sparge.

After the 60min boil it will reduce some so probably just partial mash with 1.5 gallons, boil, cool and add 4 gallons of AJ?

If you want to match OP recipe, 2lbs of DME converted to grain is 3lbs two row, assuming 65% efficiency, which is all you're going to get in small batch BIB.
so you would have 1.5qts per pound, 3 5/8 lbs total grain or 5.43qts water. You're going to lose qt or so soaking grains and at least another 2 qts to boil and trude on bottom of pot. You'll end up with the same gallon of hoped wort to add to AJ.

You don't normally sparge BIB, you raise the temp, over ten min to 170 and then drain the bag.
You're correct, if you squeeze the bag, you get more tannins and more cloudiness. Just hang your bag, by string, it doesn't take that long to drain, 3 5/8lbs of grain.
 
You don't normally sparge BIB, you raise the temp, over ten min to 170 and then drain the bag.
You're correct, if you squeeze the bag, you get more tannins and more cloudiness. Just hang your bag, by string, it doesn't take that long to drain, 3 5/8lbs of grain.

Thanks so just soak/mash the grains for 60min in 155-160f and then up the temp to 170 for 10min?
 
Add grain in bag to 150-160 water, hold at 145 for 60min ( light body, higher fermentable sugars) or 155 for 60 min ( fuller body, lower fermentable sugars), over 7 min bring water up to 168 and hold for 10 min. Raise bag, with grain out of water, letting it drain, discard grains. You can continue with rest of recipe, you just did small AG BIB mash, instead of using DME,
 
Add grain in bag to 150-160 water, hold at 145 for 60min ( light body, higher fermentable sugars) or 155 for 60 min ( fuller body, lower fermentable sugars), over 7 min bring water up to 168 and hold for 10 min. Raise bag, with grain out of water, letting it drain, discard grains. You can continue with rest of recipe, you just did small AG BIB mash, instead of using DME,

oh, ok perfect....thanks...now, this might seem strange or odd....but, I'm still learning, so I have to ask as I do not know...

I already have the DME...is there a way to do the grain portion as BIAB, BUT, still use the DME as per the recipe?

thanks again for everyone's help.
 
Yes just follow the original recipe directions. If your going to use extract (dme or lme) put the specialty grains (1/2 lb of 60L and the 1oz of wheat) in a small grain bag and STEEP as Brandon describes in original recipe. If your not going to use extract (dme or lme) then you have to replace the extract (dme or lme) with base malt (ie 2 row) and then you would have to add the base grains with the speciality grains and follow the instructions for BIAB (MASHING). Hope this helps. I would recommend looking up info on extract brewing with specialty grains. Pick a simple ale recipe with extract brewing and steeping 1 or 2 specialty grains. Make a couple batches, work on the basics, and relax and have a homebrew.
 
oh, ok perfect....thanks...now, this might seem strange or odd....but, I'm still learning, so I have to ask as I do not know...

I already have the DME...is there a way to do the grain portion as BIAB, BUT, still use the DME as per the recipe?

thanks again for everyone's help.

Charts like this one may be of interest to you also:
http://bundlr.com/clips/547a056e4d0c1e2bc900015f
 
Hop it with Citra, and let us know later!


So, I've got this kegged and carbed. I hopped with saaz, because that's what I had.

This is pretty damn good. If I had to do it over, I'd use the pound of torrified wheat I screwed up and put in here. And I'd hop it with Australian Summer hops.

Yes, there's an inch of head you have to patiently wait for, but it has the mouth feel of a nitro stout. It really surprises you, in a good way.
 
My graff has been in the fermenter for 10 days. The first 24 hours were very slow but I haveto say the yeast is VERY happy! 2 inches of Krausen and bubbling strong. Im leaving it in primary for another 2 weeks and then I'll keg it. Any suggestions as to whether I should force carbonate or add the sugar and let it carb on its own? Im dying to try this one but Id rather wait for the best results.

Roland
 
So - I brewed this last Sunday exactly as detailed on the first page. Pitched Nottingham that afternoon. 4 days later and there has been absolutely zero krausen and no airlock activity - but a gravity reading has seen it drop from 1.052 to 1.03. Anything I should be concerned about - or just chalk it up to one of those "Sometimes the airlock doesn't bubble for whatever reason" brews and move on?
 
So - I brewed this last Sunday exactly as detailed on the first page. Pitched Nottingham that afternoon. 4 days later and there has been absolutely zero krausen and no airlock activity - but a gravity reading has seen it drop from 1.052 to 1.03. Anything I should be concerned about - or just chalk it up to one of those "Sometimes the airlock doesn't bubble for whatever reason" brews and move on?

do you have lots of head space?
 

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