GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

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Thinking about selling my keezer but cant figure out a fair price to even consider. 7 cu ft GE, 7 ball lock cornys, 5lb co2 tank....regulators lines faucets shanks everything. What you see is why you'd get.


image-3276497522.jpg
 
reed1099 said:
Thinking about selling my keezer but cant figure out a fair price to even consider. 7 cu ft GE, 7 ball lock cornys, 5lb co2 tank....regulators lines faucets shanks everything. What you see is why you'd get.
Click to expand...

I guess I forgot the punch line here...what would you consider a decent price for my keezer?
 
Why on Earth would you sell that keezer? Please tell me you're going bigger, and not just getting rid of it for other reasons?
 
nickmv said:
Why on Earth would you sell that keezer? Please tell me you're going bigger, and not just getting rid of it for other reasons?
Click to expand...

Honestly, I don't have time to brew enough to keep it full. I might make a small little 2 tap system. I was way more excited and having fun just building it then actually using it.
 
Carlscan26 said:
Why not take the top back off? Did you glue it in addition to those angle brackets?

What dimension did you size the top too if not the outside? The inside then? I was going to duplicate the dimensions of the top itself...
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Yup, the top was siliconed to the wood in addition to those brackets. I was able to get the insulation in, it really wasnt to bad, but definately could have been easier.
I used the top as a template for the collar, just turned it upside down and lined up the boards and it came together pretty naturally. I think my dimensions for the top were very similar to TomSD's.

Im so happy that i did the trim work, it really makes it look great and the wife has no issues with it being in the house now. :)
Share some pics of yours once you get it done.
 
jabobs said:
Yup, the top was siliconed to the wood in addition to those brackets. I was able to get the insulation in, it really wasnt to bad, but definately could have been easier.
I used the top as a template for the collar, just turned it upside down and lined up the boards and it came together pretty naturally. I think my dimensions for the top were very similar to TomSD's.

Im so happy that i did the trim work, it really makes it look great and the wife has no issues with it being in the house now. :)
Share some pics of yours once you get it done.
Click to expand...

Will do!
 
I dont want to hijack the thread but I purchased a powersupply for my bilge blower from amazon. It outputs 12v @ 5amps. When I put the wires from the bilge to the powersupply the bilge blower "pulses" its not constantly on. I have no clue why this is happening. Does anyone know more about DC power than I do that can explain how I can fix this?

This is what I got.

Thank you.
 
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jabobs said:
For any of you that have had your keezer up and running for awhile now, how is the moisture level inside where the collar is?
I'm trying to decide how many coats of polyurethane is enough.

I'm using a Minwax Fast Drying Oil Based one. I have 3 coats on already, I was contemplating that being enough for the outside of the collar, but I am considering doing 3 more coats on the inside.
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Jabobs - is that one moulding or did you put three together to make that?
 
jimbonnet said:
I dont want to hijack the thread but I purchased a powersupply for my bilge blower from amazon. It outputs 12v @ 5amps. When I put the wires from the bilge to the powersupply the bilge blower "pulses" its not constantly on. I have no clue why this is happening. Does anyone know more about DC power than I do that can explain how I can fix this?

This is what I got.

Thank you.
Click to expand...

Hi

That's what many power supplies do when they are running into to big a load. Either your blower is pulling more than 5 amps or the power supply is putting out less than it's rated for.

Bob
 
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Can someone do me a huge favor? I need a picture of the wiring connections for the thermostat. I took mine off to paint it and then accidentally deleted the picture I took of the wiring positions. :mad:
 
If you mean between the boards and the freezer then that is an illusion caused by the rounded edges of the boards. It sits pretty flat. In all this time there have been no issues and it rolls around like a champ.
 
TomSD said:
If you mean between the boards and the freezer then that is an illusion caused by the rounded edges of the boards. It sits pretty flat. In all this time there have been no issues and it rolls around like a champ.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom.

Have you had any issues with the caulk/sealant smell not going away?
 
What kind of fan do you guys use in your keezers? How do you wire it up? I am putting together a parts list. Thanks!!!
 
gjabball said:
What kind of fan do you guys use in your keezers? How do you wire it up? I am putting together a parts list. Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

I'm using a 120V fan, it has the name Cooltron on it. It came with a plug, so I have it plugged into the outlet on the back of my keezer. One of the recepticals I have switched by the controller and the other is constant power. I'm currently running the fan switched.
 
gjabball said:
What kind of fan do you guys use in your keezers? How do you wire it up? I am putting together a parts list. Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

I'm using a spare CPU cooler fan I had lying around. It's about 4" across and just fits into the end of a section of dryer hose. I have the dryer hose running from the bottom back corner of the keezer to the fan which is mounted just under the lid of the keezer. I power it with an old, spare AC adapter from who knows what that I also had laying around.

It doesn't push tons or air compared to some but it only has to keep the air moving around inside the keezer to eliminate warm/cold spots. It seems to be good enough for that.
 
jcoxen said:
I'm using a spare CPU cooler fan I had lying around. It's about 4" across and just fits into the end of a section of dryer hose. I have the dryer hose running from the bottom back corner of the keezer to the fan which is mounted just under the lid of the keezer. I power it with an old, spare AC adapter from who knows what that I also had laying around.

It doesn't push tons or air compared to some but it only has to keep the air moving around inside the keezer to eliminate warm/cold spots. It seems to be good enough for that.
Click to expand...


Do you run it all of the time or have it on a switch?
 
ingchr1 said:
The nameplate on the freezer states the rated current is 1.7A. Note that it will draw a couple times this value on start up.
Click to expand...

Spent some time running through this thread (all 39 current pages) and didn't see an actual measurement of the start-up draw in amps of these things. Anybody happen to know what it is?
 
Hey guys,

New to these forums, new to brewing beer, new to kegging. However, I did go all in and have started building my keezer taking a great deal of information and guidance from this thread. Thank you.

Question: For those of you that painted your freezer black or whatever color, did you do it before or after everythign was put together. Have a new GE 7.0 and want to paint it all black but wondering if waiting would be a huge deal? Also for those who painted, did the enamel appliance paid adhere to the plastic on the lid/

Thanks in advance.
 
I only painted a foot tall strip directly under the collar so I could mark mine with some chalk, but I did it during the build, but before I added the collar on.

If you're painting the whole thing, you can probably just go ahead and paint it before starting the project, but I waited a bit, but not for any particular reason. I def wouldn't have painted it with the collar on, though.
 
I did mine after prep but before assembly. Easier with everything taken apart. My one big gripe was I didn't use primer, even though I had a can, which made it much harder than it had to be. I roughed up the surface but a good coat of primer would've made all the difference in my application. Not that it doesn't work great and look great but it took more work than it could've.
 
TomSD said:
I did mine after prep but before assembly. Easier with everything taken apart. My one big gripe was I didn't use primer, even though I had a can, which made it much harder than it had to be. I roughed up the surface but a good coat of primer would've made all the difference in my application. Not that it doesn't work great and look great but it took more work than it could've.
Click to expand...

Tom,

I have the same Freezer. I was wondering if you were able to fit 1/2 keg and 2 1/6 kegs in it. I'm going to be building a keezer soon as well but I want to put 1/2 keg of miller lite for most of my guests and 2-1/6(or cornies) kegs for microbrews and stuff that I normally drink...
 
1/2 keg won't fit in there, which is good because you'd kill yourself trying to lift it up and over. 1/4 keg won't fit either. Sorry! Only 1/6 or slim 1/4.
 
Off the top of my head I'm not sure. I know it'll fit 4 ball lock corny kegs on the floor, though it's very tight. I've had 2 1/6 and one ball lock in there with tons of breathing room. The dimensions are listed here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/lo...ons-ge-7-cu-ft-chest-freezer-fcm7duww-337034/

It looks like the floor is 24"x15". From here (http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Useful-Keg-Dimensions) a slim 1/4 is 11 1/8", a 1/6 is 9 1/4". I just made a quick scale drawing in Powerpoint and I don't think there's any way you can arrange the three circles to make them all fit on the floor, but if you build a tall enough collar you can certainly put one of the 1/6 bbls on the compressor hump.
 
A sixth is a little bigger than a cornie. Actually it might be the same size as a pin lock but it is larger than my ball locks. It'll fit in there if you only go with 3 kegs but the 4th won't happen unless it is on the hump. And yeah 1/2 & 1/4 are too big to fit in no matter how you try.
 
zachattack said:
Off the top of my head I'm not sure. I know it'll fit 4 ball lock corny kegs on the floor, though it's very tight. I've had 2 1/6 and one ball lock in there with tons of breathing room. The dimensions are listed here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/lo...ons-ge-7-cu-ft-chest-freezer-fcm7duww-337034/

It looks like the floor is 24"x15". From here (http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/Useful-Keg-Dimensions) a slim 1/4 is 11 1/8", a 1/6 is 9 1/4". I just made a quick scale drawing in Powerpoint and I don't think there's any way you can arrange the three circles to make them all fit on the floor, but if you build a tall enough collar you can certainly put one of the 1/6 bbls on the compressor hump.
Click to expand...

Bummer....maybe I will have to look for another chest(possibly 9 cubic ft). I really don't want to build it tall because I want to recess it(or appear to recess it) into cabinets...

I'm glad I asked the question. I would have really been disappointed when I finished only to find out that the 3 tap system I have drawn up in my head wouldn't work.
 

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