GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

[reed1099]

I just bought this since its an excellent deal, and I had a question.

I would like to put a tap tower on top of the freezer instead of making a collar. Would I be able to fit 4 ball lock kegs on the floor, and have a 5lb co2 tank on the ledge without adding a collar? I wasn't sure if there was enough room on that shelf for a co2 tank without the added room from the collar.

Yes you can. Look at my DIY for pics

 

[zachattack]

Did you reattach the weatherstrip to the bottom of the collar where it meets the freezer body? If you add the collar to the body inside of the lid, do you not mess around with the weatherstrip?

Lots of good info earlier in the thread, just look around

 

[zachattack]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/index3.html#post2281611

That lists the dimensions of his collar. TomSD mounted the collar to the lid, and the first few pages detail how he removed the weatherstripping from the lid. If you want to mount the collar to the freezer, you can leave the weatherstripping as is.

 

[zachattack]

He added it to the bottom of the collar. He said this was his plan in the first post or two, then there's a picture a little later on:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/index4.html#post2286154

 

[zachattack]

are these measurements for if you use 1x8s or is it for 1x10s?

The only difference between a 1x8 or 1x10 is in the width of the wood (therefore height of the collar). The length that you cut the wood to is independent of this. I think this is assuming a wood thickness of 3/4".

 

[TomSD]

Thanks to all of the above posts as they pretty much covered it.

Reused the weather stripping and it is holding up great. Also, Zach is right that the measurements will be the same either way and yes with shrinkage it is actually 3/4" thick though it is advertised as "1".

 

[zachattack]

Thanks to all of the above posts as they pretty much covered it.

Reused the weather stripping and it is holding up great. Also, Zach is right that the measurements will be the same either way and yes with shrinkage it is actually 3/4" thick though it is advertised as "1".

Tom, just wanna say thank you so much for the detailed thread, it helped so much when I was planning my build. It was great to cross-check my collar measurements with yours.

 

[TomSD]

Yes the insulation is a must I think... specially with a taller collar. Also, 2 by whatever won't work as it is a pretty narrow space for the collar. You're pretty much stuck with 1 by whatever.

 

[TomSD]

The higher efficiency stuff would be cleaner to work with but the styrofoam was cheap and has held up great. I have to pull it apart on occasion and the thicker stuff is pretty durable though it does tend to flake/crumble like most styrofoam.

Short answer... if I rebuilt the collar I would do it exactly the same except I would add a reinforcement plate at the hinges as that seems to be the weak point. I haven't had a problem yet but I'm careful with it.

 

[reed1099]

Last question, how important is it to reuse the weatherstrip? Or is it just as good to use new weatherstrip tape from home depot?
"MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape "

The MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape is a self-adhesive weatherproofing foam tape designed to eliminate air dust and moisture leaks around doors and windows. The foam tape is easy to apply complete with a self adhesive backing. Protect your home from the elements in all seasons.

Seals top and sides of door and windows
Easy, self-adhesive application
High-density closed-cell PVC foam
Helps reduce moisture leaks
Keeps dust out
MFG Brand Name : MD Building Products

They'll accomplish the same thing so whichever looks like it will give you the best seal. I'd try to re use the seal it came with as what its what it was intended for but as long as the end result is a tight seal you should be good. If you removed the original seal correctly it should be easy to re apply.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Last question, how important is it to reuse the weatherstrip? Or is it just as good to use new weatherstrip tape from home depot?
"MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape "

The MD Building Products 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Gray High-Density PVC Foam Weatherstrip Tape is a self-adhesive weatherproofing foam tape designed to eliminate air dust and moisture leaks around doors and windows. The foam tape is easy to apply complete with a self adhesive backing. Protect your home from the elements in all seasons.

Seals top and sides of door and windows
Easy, self-adhesive application
High-density closed-cell PVC foam
Helps reduce moisture leaks
Keeps dust out
MFG Brand Name : MD Building Products

Hi

The gasket that comes with the freezer is a pretty well made gizmo. It does a better job of sealing than the generic stuff. That said, there are some limits:

1) Any gasket will only work between flat surfaces. Trying to build it up to fill a gap is not a good idea. Fill the gap so the surface is flat and it's parallel to the other surface.

2) Gaskets only support just so much weight. 600 lbs of granite built into the top of a keezer isn't going to work with the standard gasket.

Bob

 

[reed1099]

maybe ill just by some of that greatstuff canned foam spray and spray over the inside weatherstrip to help insulate

Careful, when that stuff dries it triples in size from what u spray on. It also dries rigid so it wouldn't make the type of seal your looking for.

 

[zachattack]

I'd rotate the whole thing 90 degrees? Hard to tell from the layout of the room but it looks like it might fit better that way anyway.

 

[MirImage]

Pin up a drapery or small blanket matching your light house throw pillow. Hate to put anything on that nice wood work though.

 

[rama]

Thanks everyone for this very informative thread. I just finished reading the whole thing in prep for making my first keezer, and all of my questions have been covered. Cheers!

 

[RogueGoose85]

I saw some people mention that "yea you can add towers to the top of this model", but it seemed more like speculation, at least thats how I took it. has anyone installed towers on their lid for this model? I would love to have a single on one end and a double on the other end.

Thanks!

 

[RogueGoose85]

Also, is anyone familiar with this model number for a GE 7.0cf (model fcm7dnawh)? Im thinking it might be this unit, just an earlier model?

 

[fullstop22]

I am to the point of drilling holes in collar for hinges. The collar will be attached to the lid. Do I just put the seal on the collar set it on and mark the holes or do I need to allow for something? I have read in one thread about using shims under hinges.

 

[nickmv]

Awesome guide here!

I got my collar (1x10 red oak, stained with MinWax mission oak satin stain+poly) assembled (circ saw w/miter fence), and I just applied the silicone sealant to adhere the freezer top to the collar. Argggh, 24 hr wait.

Up next: insulating collar, gluing gasket back on, holes to drill for remaining hardware (probes, handles, etc)..........oh, and drinking beer.

 

[jabobs]

I started my build on this over the past weekend. A coat of primer & 2 coats of chalkboard paint on the body.

I built the collar out of 1x10 select pine boards. Secured them to each other with pocket holes and metal corner brackets.
I used the lid turned upside down as a template for lining up the collar pieces.
I will be adding trim to the collar like one other member on this thread did. More pictures to come on that later.
Because I'm adding trim, I didn't mess with doing any mitre cuts on the corners.

The base has 2- 3" locking wheels and 2 normal rotating wheels. I will be adding pine boards to the stand as well, so I won't be able to get to the wheel locks, I thought about that after the fact. I'm still debating mounting the front board in some manner that I could pop it off to get to the wheel locks, but we shall see.

 

[nickmv]

Holy cow, that's an aggressive chalkboarding. I ended up just doing an 11inch stripe from the top of the freezer so that I can label my taps and maybe add some artwork. I also didn't want to paint over the right side, as it can get somewhat hot from the compressor, and I want to prolong the life and thermal efficiency. Looks like you took that chalkboarding to a new level

Anyways, I started mine last weekend as well and got the collar insulated last night. I ended up running out of silicone late at night just before I wanted to attach the gasket and let it sit overnight. Doh!

Through the rest of this week, I've gotta get the rest of my stuff drilled, regulators mounted, hinges reattached and redone with stronger bolts and locknuts, bilge blower set up, and mounting the rest of my hardware. Should be ready for a Fri afternoon/night first pour. Perfect timing!

 

[jabobs]

Overboard! No way. It was only 1 pint of paint.
I thought about the heat from the compressor as well, but it will still have its vent on the right side and it will live inside my house. So the want for a nice uniform look won that debate.

What size bolts did you get? I still need those and a bilge blower.

I hope to start adding the trim to the collar tonight and cutting the pieces for the skirt on the rolling base.

 

[nickmv]

I haven't gotten the bolts yet. That's on my list after work today. Also, after mounting the hinge to the freezer again, it looks like some washers would be helpful on the outside of the hinge (between the hinge and the screwheads), given that you have to use the stock screws for the freezer portion, and you have to mount it a tad higher. That leaves the screws in a more vulnerable position since they sit on "mounting rails", so to speak.

I guess I'll find out later. I'm planning on getting 1.5 inch SS bolts and locking nuts for the collar portion. Make sure you put silicone sealant on the inside of the hinge before mounting for extra strength.

 

[MikeMMM]

I read your whole thread. Great build. Sorry if I missed it but what went wrong with the mitre cut collar? I am at this point and want the collar with 45 degree angle cut but don't want to make the same mistake.

 

[TomSD]

Short version... I suck, lol. No experience working with wood like that. Wrong tools, no experience, wrong adhesive, etc.

 

[ingchr1]

Short version... I suck, lol. No experience working with wood like that. Wrong tools, no experience, wrong adhesive, etc.

Same here, a piece of molding put on with some wood glue hides the joint nicely. No need for a miter cut. I did use a router to round the top edge of the molding.

 

[sazerac6]

I have used this freezer in my build also. I purchased the freezer from HD a few months back and have been acquiring all of the essentials to make the conversion.

The project began shortly after I got the freezer delivered. The collar was first, and then this past weekend finally completed it (except for the coats of poly that I've been putting on this week).

I wanted to jump in on this thread to give back to the community and help answer any questions that anyone has out there. I got a lot of info from all the various keezer build threads on HBT, and want to contribute to ongoing/future builds.

I plan starting a thread soon with more pics of the project with some details.

 

[nickmv]

Same here, a piece of molding put on with some wood glue hides the joint nicely. No need for a miter cut. I did use a router to round the top edge of the molding.

Dude I'm digging that drip tray setup. Where'd you get it, and does it have any way to keep and beer in it while the lid is opened?

 

[MikeMMM]

Short version... I suck, lol. No experience working with wood like that. Wrong tools, no experience, wrong adhesive, etc.

So how did it not work? It looked nice in the pictures that you posted before changing it out. Was it too weak and broke? Or did you not like what it looked like because cuts were a little off? I do not have woodworking experience so if I do it with the mitre cut I will have a friend who knows what he's doing make the cuts. I just wonder if the mitre cut is inherently weaker. My keezer is a 14.8 cf model and will have regulators, manifold, etc. mounted to it.

As for the box cut. It looks great too. Thanks for the responses on the box cut but if I get confident enough that I can get a good mitre cut and it will be strong enough I'm going to go that route.

 

[nickmv]

So how did it not work? It looked nice in the pictures that you posted before changing it out. Was it too weak and broke? Or did you not like what it looked like because cuts were a little off? I do not have woodworking experience so if I do it with the mitre cut I will have a friend who knows what he's doing make the cuts. I just wonder if the mitre cut is inherently weaker. My keezer is a 14.8 cf model and will have regulators, manifold, etc. mounted to it.

As for the box cut. It looks great too. Thanks for the responses on the box cut but if I get confident enough that I can get a good mitre cut and it will be strong enough I'm going to go that route.

He described at the beginning of the thread that it got wobbly. Assuming the mitre cuts were made properly, that leaves support brackets/braces to do the rest of the job. He showed wooden triangle braces that he fab'd for it. I mitre'd mine and I got 8 metal triangle braces (see here). Put 2 in the top and bottom of each corner. It's extremely strong, and my collar is the least of any of my keezer concerns, because of it.