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GE 7 CF (FCM7SUWW) keezer conversion

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My CHI temp controller is due in today, so I will give that a try.

Maybe add a bit of foam tape either side of probe wire.

The Chi Co. temp contoller temp probe is like a 16 gauge wire. Just closed the lid on it and you should be all good
 
The Chi Co. temp contoller temp probe is like a 16 gauge wire. Just closed the lid on it and you should be all good

I'm using my Johnson controller from my ferm chamber, and the freezer/keezer is holding a steady 38*F now.
 
I got this freezer from HD online for cyber Monday. $159 with free shipping. I'm pretty much going to follow this build as well. I haven't truly decided whether I'm going collar to lid or collar to base. I know the pros/cons for both. Will decide once I receive the freezer. Super excited. Thanks for the write up and information!
 
For anyone who has completed this project, what kind of caulk/glue did you use to attach the wooden collar to the freezer lid? Do you have a link to the exact product? How is it holding up over time? Thanks for the input.

BK
 
Just regular clear silicon caulk like you would use in the bathroom/kitchen. It is plenty as long as you don't lift the collar by grabbing the lid... one of the reasons I have the towel rack/handle on the front. :)

The other upside is I could convert this back into a stock freezer in like ten minutes. Not that I ever plan to but the option is nice.
 
That's a great tutorial!!! ..I learned a lot of stuff I didn't even think about ...I'm converting an upright (freezer on top) model...it's also new and I've started tinkering around without turning it on yet ...I'll post as soon as I start the mods ..waiting for the faucets ..etc ..etc
Your's looks GREAT
 
Still working on my keezer and wanted to pass on piece of advice to future builders. Be careful when you go to purchase parts unless you know exactly what you want and are ready to install them when they come in. Also, check the return policy and don't wait too long. Lesson learned!
 
Thanks for the heads up. Good to know who will work with you after the order has been made (once they have your money).

Scott
 
I have 2 of these now. One is a 4 tap keezer (5# CO2/2 regs on the hump), and the other is a ferment chamber. The keezer runs a couple times a day for a couple minutes with an analog Johnson controller set at 38F. The ferment chamber runs even less with a digital controller set to 60F. Both freezers were sale units from HD and bargains. Not a minute of trouble. I used 1x4 white oak stock for the keezer collar (mounted to the lid, which I recommend), mitered and stained. It looks great with 4 perlicks!
 
For anyone who has completed this project, what kind of caulk/glue did you use to attach the wooden collar to the freezer lid? Do you have a link to the exact product? How is it holding up over time? Thanks for the input.

BK

I ended up hinging both the lid and collar. I used cabinet hinges and the existing holes in the lid, I did have to drill out the hinges a bit so the holes would line up.

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Can anyone shed some light on to whether this will hold 4 ball lock or 4 pin lock kegs on the bottom?
 
Ok, so I currently have 2 pin locks and 1 ball lock. Think I could fit 2 of each on the bottom, or even my 3 current?
 
The three should be easy enough but there is no way you'll get four on the floor in that configuration. Four ball locks require some pretty heavy handed convincing to fit and pin locks are wider/fatter.
 
jgoette said:
Can anyone shed some light on to whether this will hold 4 ball lock or 4 pin lock kegs on the bottom?

I'm not sure but the dimensions may have changed in this freezer. I could not get 4 ball locks on the floor. It looks like it's about an inch too narrow. It's not even close enough to even jam them in there, which others have done in the past with this freezer.
 
I'm not sure but the dimensions may have changed in this freezer. I could not get 4 ball locks on the floor. It looks like it's about an inch too narrow. It's not even close enough to even jam them in there, which others have done in the past with this freezer.

I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.
 
I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.

Agreed! I can fit 4 on the floor but it is a tight squeeze. After squeezing kegs in and out for 2+ years though it has loosened up a bit
 
That hump is just thin metal filled with insulation and the way they fill it it bulges out blocking the kegs from going in. Initially I beat the crap out of it with a mallet to get them to fit. After all this time they go in much easier but it is still a tight fit.
 
I have a general question regarding co2 lines..... Why do you need seperate gauges for each corny? To read the psi in each individual corny? Can't you just split the line?
 
Yes you can get a manifold or simple splitters. I did a secondary regulator though so I could control the PSI to individual kegs. It is more expensive up front but well worth it I think.
 
TomSD said:
Yes you can get a manifold or simple splitters. I did a secondary regulator though so I could control the PSI to individual kegs. It is more expensive up front but well worth it I think.

So do you think for now if I had four cornys on one co2 tank and just split the line it would work?
 
Yeah as long as all of your kegs stayed at the same PSI. I keep two kegs of water carbing at 30 at all times (one serving and one carbing up) though so it isn't an option for me. That and I like to tweak/see my settings on each keg.
 
barhoc11 said:
I thought the same thing when I measured but 4 fit because you can stack them in staggered. I have 4 on the floor and could add a 5th on the hump if I really wanted to but I am using that area for bottles and washed yeast.

I tried with actual kegs and they would not fit. The hump would need a good bit of persuasion to get them in. Then once in they would be a PITA to get out.

Doesn't matter much for me since I have the fourth keg on the hump with a 20# CO2 on the floor.
 
I tried with actual kegs and they would not fit. The hump would need a good bit of persuasion to get them in. Then once in they would be a PITA to get out.

Doesn't matter much for me since I have the fourth keg on the hump with a 20# CO2 on the floor.

Did you try to rotate the kegs to get the best possible fit? It is a tight fit but its not the worst thing when you try to get one in/out. If you do one on the hump, make sure your collar is tall enough.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.

I just switched over to the STC-1000 after selling my Johnson Controls single stage unit. My STC-1000 is working fine, all it does is turn the freezer on and off at the proper temp.
 
Has anyone used the STC-1000 temp controller with this particular GE chest freezer (FCM7SUWW)? Looks like this freezer requires a 15 amp rating while the STC-1000 is only rated to 10 amps.

Yes, I use that controller. I don't think the freezer draws 15A or even half of that. I think someone took some current readings on it at one time or another. I can look on the nameplate to see what it says.

GE does however recommend a 15A extension cord if you use one.

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