Gas line size for keg

[Dr. T.]

I've been an all-grain brewer for several years, and have just gotten tired of bottling - so I purchased my first kegerator, and I'm stoked about giving kegging a try. It was originally set up for the usual commercial keg. I purchased a ball-lock corny and some ball-lock adapters. The first thing I noticed was that although the adapter I had (https://www.morebeer.com/products/cm-becker-ball-lock-gas-barb.html) with the standard 1/4" barb did not match the larger ID tube coming from the gas valve. This wasn't the case for the liquid side.... A quick Google search informed me that most gas lines in kegerators are 5/16" and the liquid line is 3/16". ????? Should I just tighten that larger ID tube to the 1/4" barb? Change to a larger barb on the ball-lock adapter? Or change the gas out so I can use a 3/16" line?

Thanks!

 

[mac_1103]

Personally, I would change the lines on a used kegerator anyway. And since I'd be changing the lines anyway, I would use EVABarrier tubing.

Liquid tubing diameter is important for balancing the lines so you get good pours without too much foam, but gas tubing diameter doesn't matter much. Use a line length calculator for the liquid and whatever length is convenient for the gas. Do not just try to tighten gas tubing onto an undersized barb. CO2 leaks are an expensive PITA.

 

[Broken Crow]

Ball lock disconnects are available with a a variety of barbs but also the most common fitting for kegerator puposes, the 1/4" MFL https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_grey_flare.htm which is used with a swivel-nut https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fflbarb516.htm . While it's fine to use a barbed fitting, it's nice to be able to remove it to make cleanup and maintenance easier. If you really wanna use a barbed disconnect, just look around for the 5/16" or larger but doable 3/8" barb. Of course though, most folk on here will recommend you switch out to Duotight and EVABarrier both for the ease of installation and the awesome ever-giving benefits of keeping the O2 out of your beer as the usual vinyl lines are O2 permeable and wreck your beer.... in fact as I was typing, this appeared above: "Messages have been posted since you loaded this page. View them?".... I'll bet it's another member who's gonna tell you all about EVABarrier.

 

[Bobby_M]

That's one of the reasons I've never stocked a single QD with a fixed barb size. It's a nightmare being stuck with a barb size that doesn't fit the tubing you want to use. We only sell QDs with male flare threaded connections so you can swap out the FFL x barb fitting to whatever you need.

No, you 100% do not want to try clamping a larger tube down on a smaller barb. In fact, I always use one size larger barb so the tubing has a hard time getting on. That reduces your leak potential.

 

[beren]

I use Eva barrier even with sankey keg couplers. You could fit them on a barb or just get adaptors. There are benefits to both.

 

[Dr. T.]

Are EVABarrier tubes all sold with metric ID measurements? so should I use a 4mm ID with a 3/16" tube?

 

[Broken Crow]

Are EVABarrier tubes all sold with metric ID measurements? so should I use a 4mm ID with a 3/16" tube?

If you go EVABarrier you won't regret it! Here's what I'd recommend;
MFL Disconnects;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_grey_flare.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_blk_flare.htm
Duotight 8mm>1/4"flare fitting;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushffl.htm
And if you want to leave the shank you have in your tower, you can swag and clamp the EVABarrier over the barb or better: especially since it is a used sanke unit and probably has lousy chrome-plated brass shanks, replace the tower shank with a Stainless Steel push-fitting model;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htm *note; this one includes the 1/4" (6.35mm)> 8mm adapter.
Oh, and here's the EVABarrier that you'll want at least 5' of, though 5.5' or even 6' will make you ready for higher carbed beers;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing4mm55.htm
Alternatively, if you want to keep very short lines you could do what I did and use 37" of the 3mm EVABarrier for the liquid line.
Could you take some pics of what you have so we can tailor are suggestions to your specific rig? ...if you do, then take the cap off the tower so we can see if you need air-recirc and additional insulation which make for both non-foamy pours and better energy-efficiency as well as a longer lifetime for the unit.

 

[DuncB]

Are EVABarrier tubes all sold with metric ID measurements? so should I use a 4mm ID with a 3/16" tube?

Tends to be the outside diameter mentioned for EVA barrier.
You should choose the internal diameter that will work best for the beer line length you need. Longer lines with larger diameter and vice versa.

 

[Bobby_M]

The ID and OD are both important measurements for EVA because they are sold in several variations.

3mm ID x 6.35mm OD (these push into 6.35mm or 1/4" push fit fittings/DUOTIGHT). Typically used for extra short beverage lines.

4mm ID x 8mm OD - Fits 8mm push/Duotight fittings. Typically used for mid-length beverage lines 5 to 6 feet or 1.5m. Can also be used for gas.

5mm ID x 8mm OD - Fits the same 8mm push/duotight. Used for longer draw beverage, AKA lengths driven by circumstances rather than preference. Typically pours well at 12-15feet. or 4-5m. Often used for gas though there is no real difference between 4mm/5mm ID tubing for gas. If I were buying tubing for both liquid and gas, I'd just get a long roll of 4mm ID to keep it simple and not mix anything up.

6.35mm ID x 9.5mm OD (essentially 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD). Fits 9.5mm push/Duotight. Typically used for beer to beer jumper hoses or FV to keg fill whips where beer is either non-carbonated or where kegs will have a spunding valve on it. Could be used for extra long draw bev lines, like basement keezer to first floor bar wall situations.

 

[Deadalus]

8mm=5/16" push to connect.