Brewpastor said:I'd sell you my rig, but it ain't electric, so never mind!
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Ditto. I'd sell mine, but again, its not electric.
Brewpastor said:I'd sell you my rig, but it ain't electric, so never mind!
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Plan9 said:We can't add a sub panel from that outlet you have. It doesn't have a neutral, which the 120v would need.
If you plan to roll the rig around we will have to run 2 cords, 1 to the 240V and 1 to a 120v outlet. If you are going to permanently mount it, we could run new cables to the panel.
I'll look through the warehouse and see if we have an extra sub-panel, just in case.
Virtuous said:You usually dont fire up the boil kettle till our done with the HLT. At least that is my understanding
Grimsawyer said:Looks awesome so far. Btw, is that cute little keg a 5 gallon or a 7.5? :rockin:
IrregularPulse said:4x4 corner posts or 2x4?
Plan9 said:Very cool! I'm getting excited.
I've got most of the controls fabbed up. I need to pick up heat sinks, and an exhaust fan tomorrow. I didn't know you had ordered SSRs.
I've got some 1/4" board we can use to make a temp board to test everything out.
FSR402 said:I brew with a wood rig but I would be a little concerned about the kettles sitting on the wood. Sure there is no flame but they do get damn hot.
Bobby_M said:Yeah actually, the kegs will never get hotter than the water inside. I.E. the kettle will not go over 212 unless you pressurize it. It's why you can boil water in a paper cup over a flame.
I'm fond of the idea of an instant hot water system that has been discussed quite a bit here. I don't really like the idea of the element directly in the kettle, but for sure I'd use a 5000 watt element in a copper tube as both a strike/sparge water generator and the mash recirculative heater (run it lower power for this task). I'm barely smart enough to figure it out for myself when I finally get around to it so I'm sure I can't explain it to you in advance.