Full Volume Mashing

[BrotherGrim]

I primarily make 5 gal batches and my mash tun is 10 gallons. When I am making a session ale, there is easily enough room in my mash tun to add enough water to recover the 6.5 gallons of wort that I normally shoot for. Has anybody tried this as opposed to batch sparging, and if so what are the pitfalls or problems I may encounter. I am thinking if I get all my wort in one run, I will save some time.

The only concern I have is a loss of efficiency due to not having unsugared water to rinse the grains out. Is anybody doing this?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Lots of folks full volume / no sparge, it is very common in BIAB aka brew in a bag brewing. With BIAB no sparge efficiencies are pretty good due to the complete draining of the grain, with a cooler MT your efficiency may take a minor hit depending on how high a gravity your doing, guessing 3-5%.

Some folks find this acceptable given the time savings.....

 

[jakenbacon]

You nailed it man, efficiency will really be all that is effected. Some may comment on mash ratio's but a lot of BIAB'ers aren't noticing ill affects. Sorry for my probable misuse of effect and affect....

 

[kegtoe]

There is a BrewSmith podcast that explains any potential issues with mashing thin (sparge and mash water all at once). As WilserBrewer stated, BIAB brewers due this all the time!

 

[Yooper]

The only real issue is to make sure that your mash pH is in range (generally, 5.3-5.5 or so at room temperature). There may be a hit in efficiency due to the lack of sparge, but it may not be very significant in the long run.

 

[BrotherGrim]

Thanks to all the responders. I have been BIAB brewing for the last 4 years and have always used the full volume method with that, but the finer crush kept my efficiency in line. Prior to a move, I was using the 3 vessel method, but never used full volume. I have just finished putting together a 3 vessel electric setup and was wondering about the possibility of keeping some of the brewing speed by not having to make two runnings.

Yooper, I have made many beers (quite a few of them your recipes) that I have enjoyed and many that others felt good enough about to award me a few medals and trophies, but I have never payed much attention to water. I run it through a carbon filter and brew with it. I was told long ago that if it tastes good to drink, it will make good beer. Maybe it is time to dig into my brewing water a bit more.

 

[Yooper]

Yooper, I have made many beers (quite a few of them your recipes) that I have enjoyed and many that others felt good enough about to award me a few medals and trophies, but I have never payed much attention to water. I run it through a carbon filter and brew with it. I was told long ago that if it tastes good to drink, it will make good beer. Maybe it is time to dig into my brewing water a bit more.

And if that works for you, that's fine! No reason to change if it's working for you and you are satisfied with the results.

For me, my water tastes fantastic and it makes great stouts. My lighter colored beers, not so much. After getting a water report ($26 or so), I found out why. Now I use a mix of my tap water and RO water for many of my beers, with great results. It really depends on what you have to start with!

 

[BrotherGrim]

And if that works for you, that's fine! No reason to change if it's working for you and you are satisfied with the results.

For me, my water tastes fantastic and it makes great stouts. My lighter colored beers, not so much. After getting a water report ($26 or so), I found out why. Now I use a mix of my tap water and RO water for many of my beers, with great results. It really depends on what you have to start with!

It has worked so far, I brew mostly pales and lighter beers (usually pretty hop forward) and they taste great. My stouts and robust porters normally take a long time before they come into their own. Maybe something to do with the water? I don't know. My curiousity is aroused, I think I may get my water tested and see what the results say.

 

[Bobby_M]

Even easier than testing the water (which isn't a bad idea anyway) would be to get some colorpHast 4-7 strips and test your mash pH.

 

[okbecker]

I primarily make 5 gal batches and my mash tun is 10 gallons. When I am making a session ale, there is easily enough room in my mash tun to add enough water to recover the 6.5 gallons of wort that I normally shoot for. Has anybody tried this as opposed to batch sparging, and if so what are the pitfalls or problems I may encounter. I am thinking if I get all my wort in one run, I will save some time.

The only concern I have is a loss of efficiency due to not having unsugared water to rinse the grains out. Is anybody doing this?

This is almost exactly what I do. Yes efficiency will take a hit, mine is about 5-10% lower depending on OG. I mash in as normal , 1.3-2 grist ratio, then add the rest of water as my mash out addition at end. Let sit for 10 minutes and drain into kettle. This allows me a little better control over initial mash PH and mash out temp helps with run off, enzyme conversion, etc... I am a big fan of no sparge brewing!

 

[hottpeper13]

When I do 5 gal on my 10 gal system. I mash in at a 1:1 grain to water ratio at 143* and then add boiling water or 190* to get all the way to 170* in steps and when at 170* there is enough water in there to drain 7 gal to boil. These are smaller beers like Kolsches and Wits, that benefit from a step mash.

 

[bigdongsr94]

I am a full volume BISB. Full volume mashes especially on session beers without paying attention to pH has cost me. High pH has ruined my batches even if using only ro water. You need to pay attention to pH when using full volume.