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frustrated with kegging ... why does my beer not appear carbonated?

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I used to have beers that were overcarbed and I had to way lower the pressure to pour them. The needle was stopped on the peg while there was still ~8 psi. I ended up replacing it and everything is now great. The way I found out was when I added a 4-way secondary. I should have been able to set the tank gauge at a pressure, say 10 psi and no matter how high I cranked up the other regulators, they should go higher than that.

I was able to calibrate the gauge to +/- 2psi but it was a total PITA. So here's what the inside of the gauge looks like:

5334483328_99c15340d3.jpg


As the pressure increases, the Bourdon Tube wants to straighten out, like a let's say "balloon". This causes the pinion to turn the dial. To adjust, you have to turn the needle either higher or lower until the pinion teeth come off the gear and then move the needle a tooth or two one way or the other. It's really easy to over shoot and have to go back the other way. Oh, this will only work if you have a known good gauge to compare it too. You would need to set your tank secondary to say 15 psi and then crank up your secondary (the one you want to adjust) and then try to adjust until it is at the same pressure. Unless you really like a challenge or don't have the money for a new gauge, just buy a new one.
 
I'm having the same issue if I'm understanding correctly. I'm on my third keg, and all three thus far have had minimal carbonation and taste similar to when tasting during the hydrometer measurement (only slightly more carbonated). I'm new to kegging though, and haven't given carbonation more than 3 days (at 30psi), which I understand for a 65-70 degree temperature, is the norm? Maybe I'll give it a full week just to see what happens?
 
ebj5883 said:
I'm having the same issue if I'm understanding correctly. I'm on my third keg, and all three thus far have had minimal carbonation and taste similar to when tasting during the hydrometer measurement (only slightly more carbonated). I'm new to kegging though, and haven't given carbonation more than 3 days (at 30psi), which I understand for a 65-70 degree temperature, is the norm? Maybe I'll give it a full week just to see what happens?

Leave for a few weeks at low pressure or roll a couple times a day for quicker carbonating.
 
I am having a rough time getting the carbonation levels I want too... this thread has some good ideas.
 
Leave for a few weeks at low pressure or roll a couple times a day for quicker carbonating.

Is "rolling" as simple as it sounds, in that I would simply roll my keg for a few minutes 2-3 times a day? I'm also carbonating inside my freezerator, should I change this to room temperature?
 
ebj5883 said:
Is "rolling" as simple as it sounds, in that I would simply roll my keg for a few minutes 2-3 times a day? I'm also carbonating inside my freezerator, should I change this to room temperature?

I roll it for a few minutes along the ground. Do this a few times a day. Some people shake it, but I think that's too much work.
My schedule is 30psi for 24 hours, 20 psi for 24 hours, 10 or serving psi for 24 hours while rolling the whole time. I'm happy with my beer.
 
I'm having the same issue if I'm understanding correctly. I'm on my third keg, and all three thus far have had minimal carbonation and taste similar to when tasting during the hydrometer measurement (only slightly more carbonated). I'm new to kegging though, and haven't given carbonation more than 3 days (at 30psi), which I understand for a 65-70 degree temperature, is the norm? Maybe I'll give it a full week just to see what happens?

Well one of the big issues as to why it's not carbonated is the temperature. CO2 dissolves into solution soooo much faster at serving temperatures as compared to room temperature. If it was cold, 3 days at 30psi would probably make it overcarbed. Just out of curiosity, is there a specific reason you are carbonating at room temp? No room in the kegerator?
 
Yeah no rolling is going to be happening in my system. That just sounds like to much work. I would have to disconnect, pull the keg out or keezer, roll around, & reconnect. I see no reason why this should be necessary (I realize these were suggestions for those carbing at room temp, but still).

The next thing I will check is keezer temp as set on the temp controller vs actual temp inside the keezer as this is fairly simple. I tested this awhile back and it was close if not spot on.

Next step which I'm assuming will be necessary (unless my temp controller somehow has been seriously malfunctioning) will be to either set up a test gauge in-line or replace one of the gauges and see how far off my reading on the old gauge was.

I am determined to get this ironed out as I realize that the 30 PSI thing for a day is only a temporary fix and cabonation boost. Assuming temp and pressure are correct there really is no way that the beer cannot carbonate. This only leaves two variables both which are fairly easy to test it seems.
 
Well one of the big issues as to why it's not carbonated is the temperature. CO2 dissolves into solution soooo much faster at serving temperatures as compared to room temperature. If it was cold, 3 days at 30psi would probably make it overcarbed. Just out of curiosity, is there a specific reason you are carbonating at room temp? No room in the kegerator?

I've yet to build the collar for the keezer, as I just recently bought the chest freezer and temperature controller two weeks ago and set it up then. I actually just went out to buy the collar materials today, and later this week will add that in and buy the lines/splitters I'll need to hopefully end up with a 4 keg setup in the keezer with dual pressures for carbing and serving.

Long story short though, I tried carbing at room temperature at first (30psi for 48 hours), and when that didn't work I called the local brew shop and tried the suggested "chilled" method (12psi for 48 hours inside the keezer @37-41 degrees). Before any jabs at his advice are made though, the fact that I needed 2 kegs carbed in two days was a necessity at the time, as I had a camping trip to bring the brews to. The tasting the night before went decent, but after the relatively smooth transport to the campsite 2 1/2 hours away, they both seemed pretty flat. Perhaps I missed something in his advice? Perhaps shaking or something.

Either way, this week I'll be able to build the collar, fit 4 kegs in at once, and be able to run a gas line into the keezer from the outside of the unit (which from what I understand is the best combination).
 
I've yet to build the collar for the keezer, as I just recently bought the chest freezer and temperature controller two weeks ago and set it up then. I actually just went out to buy the collar materials today, and later this week will add that in and buy the lines/splitters I'll need to hopefully end up with a 4 keg setup in the keezer with dual pressures for carbing and serving.

Long story short though, I tried carbing at room temperature at first (30psi for 48 hours), and when that didn't work I called the local brew shop and tried the suggested "chilled" method (12psi for 48 hours inside the keezer @37-41 degrees). Before any jabs at his advice are made though, the fact that I needed 2 kegs carbed in two days was a necessity at the time, as I had a camping trip to bring the brews to. The tasting the night before went decent, but after the relatively smooth transport to the campsite 2 1/2 hours away, they both seemed pretty flat. Perhaps I missed something in his advice? Perhaps shaking or something.

Either way, this week I'll be able to build the collar, fit 4 kegs in at once, and be able to run a gas line into the keezer from the outside of the unit (which from what I understand is the best combination).

12 PSI for 48 hours? That will do nothing (even at cold temps). That's why it was flat. If you set to 12 PSI you will need to leave it for a week before it is carbed. LHBS gave you terrible advice. Next time go with 30 PSI at serving temp for 2 days and it should be very close to carbed.

Also, be sure you don't mistake foam for carbonation. I am guessing it had a nice head, which can happen even if not carbed. Running bubbles after pouring are the indication of carbonation.
 
If you just carb at "your" 30 psi and then drop back to 12 psi eventually the beer will loose its carb.

From personal experience I find this to not be true...

I carb my beers at 30 psi for 30-36 hours and then drop them to serving pressure at 10-12 psi and they do not lose their carb at all even if they sit for weeks.

Dave
 
From personal experience I find this to not be true...

I carb my beers at 30 psi for 30-36 hours and then drop them to serving pressure at 10-12 psi and they do not lose their carb at all even if they sit for weeks.

Dave

My reply was to the OP, which if you reread this thread (and read my post in context) you will notice that it is suspected that his low pressure gauge is faulty and reading high. That is why I said "your" 30 PSI
But you are right if you carb at a high pressure and then drop back to serving pressure you will not lose carb as long as you have a accurate working and not faulty gauge ;)
 
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