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Cream Ale Fizzy Yellow Beer

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sivdrinks said:
So you think $2.95 a pound is ok for Pilsner or 2 Row? Sorry, no support here for price gouging.

No, but if you're gonna pay the same amount for the same stuff overall, I'd say go with the LHBS, you can monitor the crush (assuming you don't have a mill), plus if you're ever in pinch, and need somethin fast, the LBHS will be there, versus just needing some yeast and a pound of something and having to pay full shipping from midwest or NB. That store won't be there if no one supports it. I don't condone price gouging and I would certainly voice that to the owner.
If I was gonna buy a 50# bag, hell no I wouldn't go to that LHBS and I'd pay the shipping from midwest/NB
 
GMJager said:
No, but if you're gonna pay the same amount for the same stuff overall, I'd say go with the LHBS, you can monitor the crush (assuming you don't have a mill), plus if you're ever in pinch, and need somethin fast, the LBHS will be there, versus just needing some yeast and a pound of something and having to pay full shipping from midwest or NB. That store won't be there if no one supports it. I don't condone price gouging and I would certainly voice that to the owner.
If I was gonna buy a 50# bag, hell no I wouldn't go to that LHBS and I'd pay the shipping from midwest/NB

Wasn't trying to be a dick about LHBS, just find a new one.
 
sivdrinks said:
Wasn't trying to be a dick about LHBS, just find a new one.

Fair enough! Now let's stop this thread hijacking, ad get back to this yellow fizzy beer!!!
 
GMJager said:
Fair enough! Now let's stop this thread hijacking, ad get back to this yellow fizzy beer!!!

Like! This is a simple great beer, drinking right now. I wonder what an all Vienna beer tastes like?
 
This was the second beer I brewed today. I had probably been drinking more than I should have when I got to the late part of the boil. I ended up forgetting the flame out hops. I think I'll add the tettnanger and 1/2 oz of cascade after fermentation is done to make up for it. We'll see how it goes.
 
Thoughts on using amylase enzyme in secondary like the ML clone recipe has? A lot of the replies here didn't get an FG below 1.008, do people think there is value in "drying" it up or should I just let it ride as is? I like the idea of the ML clone being so close to BMC for my "clear beer" friends but I can't bring myself to use corn in a recipe. I'm looking to be as close to BMC as you can go without filler (rice, corn) and calling it "Weed" since it seems like a gateway beer!
 
Thoughts on using amylase enzyme in secondary like the ML clone recipe has? A lot of the replies here didn't get an FG below 1.008, do people think there is value in "drying" it up or should I just let it ride as is? I like the idea of the ML clone being so close to BMC for my "clear beer" friends but I can't bring myself to use corn in a recipe. I'm looking to be as close to BMC as you can go without filler (rice, corn) and calling it "Weed" since it seems like a gateway beer!

Instead of using amylase in this recipe, I'd prefer using a recipe that used corn or rice in the beginning. The whole idea is to have a beer with 100% malt and the flavor behind it. To use amylase would totally make a different beer. I think it'd be better to start with the goal of a thinner beer in the beginning, instead of ruining a perfectly good beer.
 
Has anyone tried using Citra as a very late edition or dry hop?

I made an all Citra version of this beer a few months ago, gone now! The Citra worked well, just don't over do it. I used a TOTAL of 1 oz of Citra with wyeast 1056 fermented at the low end, 62*. Came out great. Try it, you'll like it!:ban:
 
I'd like to give this recipe a try, but I'm a relative newcomer and don't yet have the ability to lower my fermenting temp below the dark cold cellar temp. Would it be possible to ferment this at 67 degrees? Should I change up the yeast?
 
I'd like to give this recipe a try, but I'm a relative newcomer and don't yet have the ability to lower my fermenting temp below the dark cold cellar temp. Would it be possible to ferment this at 67 degrees? Should I change up the yeast?

It may work fine. I just never ferment any of my ales above about 65-69 degrees (beer temperature, not ambient which is much cooler) so I just don't know for sure.
 
Yooper said:
It may work fine. I just never ferment any of my ales above about 65-69 degrees (beer temperature, not ambient which is much cooler) so I just don't know for sure.

Is there a rule of thumb for differential between fermentation chamber temp and ambient room temp?
 
Is there a rule of thumb for differential between fermentation chamber temp and ambient room temp?

I have found that it can be about 6 degrees, but there can be a lot of variables. Batch size, how vigorous the ferment is, yeast, etc...
 
I will be brewing this tomorrow. I am going to start using RO water and adding calcium carbonate and lactic acid.

Using the EZ water spreadsheet, if I add 4 grams of calcium carbonate to the mash it will bring the total calcium up to 34 and if I add 1ml of lactic acid it will bring the pH of the mash down to 5.47. 4 grams seems like a lot but anything less won't add enough calcium.

What do you recommend I do?
 
I will be brewing this tomorrow. I am going to start using RO water and adding calcium carbonate and lactic acid.

Using the EZ water spreadsheet, if I add 4 grams of calcium carbonate to the mash it will bring the total calcium up to 34 and if I add 1ml of lactic acid it will bring the pH of the mash down to 5.47. 4 grams seems like a lot but anything less won't add enough calcium.

What do you recommend I do?

I have been using ro/di water for my last serveral brews and put in 4 grams of calcium and 4 oz acid malt.
I have been brewing light lagers and kolschs, so this recipe is similar... light ale.
My beers have been turning out great and no issues with clearing up.
I would do the same for this recipe.

thanks Kevin
 
Great thanks. I will add 4 grams of the calcium and probably 2 mL of lactic acid to the mash.
 
I will be brewing this tomorrow. I am going to start using RO water and adding calcium carbonate and lactic acid.

Using the EZ water spreadsheet, if I add 4 grams of calcium carbonate to the mash it will bring the total calcium up to 34 and if I add 1ml of lactic acid it will bring the pH of the mash down to 5.47. 4 grams seems like a lot but anything less won't add enough calcium.

What do you recommend I do?

I just saw this. Defintely NO calcium carbonate, ever, in the mash.

You can use calcium chloride to bring up the calcium, and it will increase the chloride a bit as well. But keep calcium carbonate (chalk) far, far away!
 
I just saw this. Defintely NO calcium carbonate, ever, in the mash.

You can use calcium chloride to bring up the calcium, and it will increase the chloride a bit as well. But keep calcium carbonate (chalk) far, far away!

Damn, I knew I bought the wrong thing. My LHBS usually doesn't have calcium chloride on the shelves (have to ask for it, not sure why) and when I saw calcium on the bag I grabbed it and bought it. Definitely bought calcium carbonate. Good thing you caught that because I would have used it.

So now what are my options? My LHBS doesn't open until 3pm tomorrow. I wanted to brew at 10am. Am I SOL?
 
Damn, I knew I bought the wrong thing. My LHBS usually doesn't have calcium chloride on the shelves (have to ask for it, not sure why) and when I say calcium on the bag I grabbed it and bought it. Definitely bought calcium carbonate. Good thing you caught that because I would have used it.

So now what are my options? My LHBS doesn't open until 3pm tomorrow. I wanted to brew at 10am. Am I SOL?

Well, I can't think of anything else to bring up your calcium except for gypsum, and that wouldn't be right as you don't want to increase your sulfate in this beer.

Plain ol RO water will just have to do, I guess. It won't be bad, and it'll work, but ideally you'd have a teaspoon of CaCl2 (calcium chloride) in it. don't use the lactic acid, as you may not need it.
 
Well, I can't think of anything else to bring up your calcium except for gypsum, and that wouldn't be right as you don't want to increase your sulfate in this beer.

Plain ol RO water will just have to do, I guess. It won't be bad, and it'll work, but ideally you'd have a teaspoon of CaCl2 (calcium chloride) in it. don't use the lactic acid, as you may not need it.

Gypsum was my next question. And I don't have a pH meter to check the mash.

So maybe it would be better to hold off on this until I can get the CaCl2.
 
Gypsum was my next question. And I don't have a pH meter to check the mash.

So maybe it would be better to hold off on this until I can get the CaCl2.

I would go ahead and brew with the RO water. The calcium would be a little low, but I brew pilsners with straight RO water and they are great that way. Ideally, you'd have 40ppm of calcium, but if you aerate well and pitch the proper amount of yeast you shouldn't have any fermentation issues.
 
I would go ahead and brew with the RO water. The calcium would be a little low, but I brew pilsners with straight RO water and they are great that way. Ideally, you'd have 40ppm of calcium, but if you aerate well and pitch the proper amount of yeast you shouldn't have any fermentation issues.

I also have Wyeast yeast nutrient which I assume has a small amount of calcium.

I may use this as an experiment. I think tomorrow I will brew with RO (actually I had to get distilled water because the two places I went to didn't have RO) and yeast nutrient. Next week I will use distilled water, yeast nutrient and CaCl2 to see if I can taste a difference. This beer is light enough for different taste/flavors to come through. I may actually do a third batch with my tap water to see how that compares.
 
I ended up brewing this Friday afternoon. No calcium but I did buy a pH meter. I added the yeast nutrient and shook the bucket for a good 5 minutes. I think fermentation is going well. Next batch will be with calcium.
 
Brewing a version of this today. Football season coming up, need an easy drinking beer on tap. Going about 50/40/10 pilsner/vienna/wheat.

I made a similar beer not long ago (before I found this thread) using Saphir hops for my late additions. For those of you who like this beer, I highly recommend given them a shot. Today I am using a split of Opal and Saphir for the late additions.
 
Brewed this up today. My final OG was 1.051. Kegged a beer that I had used Danstar Nottingham for, and threw this right on top of that fresh yeast cake. Already starting to bubble not a half hour after pitching....expecting this one to be very clean with the full yeast cake and fermenting at 61-62 degrees...will let you know how it turns out!
 
I brewed this up a few weeks ago for an annual beer bash I throw. The party went down last night and this one was the absolute crowd favorite. Thanks, Yooper!
 
I ripped this one out last week. Nice cold Nova Scotia weather meant that temp control was achieved naturally. Smells pretty good. I ALWAYS use Nottingham on light ales and it clears like a boss.
 
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