FIY PID controller for boil coil

[jcs401]

I am looking at making a PID controller for the blichmann 120v 2250 watt boil coil. I was told/read that the plug on this is not your standard outlet plug. Does anyone know what outlet I could use to install it on the PID controller?
Also, if I plugged the boil coil into the PID controller, could I then just use a standard plug and plug it into my gfci kitchen outlets which have a 20amp breaker??
Please help

 

[augiedoggy]

I am looking at making a PID controller for the blichmann 120v 2250 watt boil coil. I was told/read that the plug on this is not your standard outlet plug. Does anyone know what outlet I could use to install it on the PID controller?
Also, if I plugged the boil coil into the PID controller, could I then just use a standard plug and plug it into my gfci kitchen outlets which have a 20amp breaker??
Please help

the pid can be powered on anything from 80 to 240v if I remember right... (actually theres a power supply inside to convert everything to 24v dc) It automatically senses and uses the AC power you feed it

I think you might be confused a bit on the difference between the pid which is just a cmponent and needs the ssr switch wired to it along with power and the temp probe, and the whole control panel which is the controller your looking for unless you plan on building your own (which is easy and cheap for 120v like your considering... you can build a 120v pid controller with an alarm for under $100.

I see you decided to go with only 2250w?

Here is the best price/value for a prebuilt one I have seen so far (IMO).. I would email them because its says its rated for 2000w but thats because 2000w is standard and 2250w is an oddball bastard wattage element which technically requires a 30a circuit (which im sure you dont have) Honestly you better off installing a 240v outlet since the cost will be the same...
http://jaggerbushbrewing.com/PID-110-VOLT-CONTROLLER-2000-WATT_p_64.html

 

[jcs401]

the pid can be powered on anything from 80 to 240v if I remember right... (actually theres a power supply inside to convert everything to 24v dc) It automatically senses and uses the AC power you feed it

I think you might be confused a bit on the difference between the pid which is just a cmponent and needs the ssr switch wired to it along with power and the temp probe, and the whole control panel which is the controller your looking for unless you plan on building your own (which is easy and cheap for 120v like your considering... you can build a 120v pid controller with an alarm for under $100.

I see you decided to go with only 2250w?

I was planning I making this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=379938

And instead of the standard outlet, use an outlet that the boil coil will plug into as I was told it isn't your standard 3 prong plug. Then run power from the normal kitchen gfci outlet to the PID CONTROLLER. make sense? Or am I totally way off??

 

[augiedoggy]

I was planning I making this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=379938

And instead of the standard outlet, use an outlet that the boil coil will plug into as I was told it isn't your standard 3 prong plug. Then run power from the normal kitchen gfci outlet to the PID CONTROLLER. make sense? Or am I totally way off??

I was editing my post while you were typing... technically the boilcoil requires a 30a circiut to meet code... your 20a kitchen outlets might work but they will most likely blow the breaker after 20 mins or so... honestly I dont usderstand the marketing strategy of such an element..

My guess is theres a good chance the 2250w is inflated marketing hype and its actually less powerful and able to run on a 20a circuit.. you would need to contact blichmann or test it yourself with a meter to see how many watts it actually is. most elements are overestimated in power... one of my 4500w elements is only 4200w in reality...
that said if it really is only like 2100w your going to have long waits and youll have to insulate your kettle.

that controller would work though... even though its only rated for 20a and your element is rated for 21-22 amps of draw?

sorry man I know this has to be a bit overwhelming and frustrating.. I was in the same boat until I just decided to spend the $120 on a 240v gfci circuit. it made everyth8ing else easier...

are you sure you dont have a 240v oulet behind your stove? or in your laundry room? some houses have both hookups

 

[jcs401]

The only main reason I was looking at the boil coil was that I would only have one element in the kettle and see that Scortching is unlikely with it. However I have considered 2 1500 watt ULWD elements, one used through the PID and recirculating the mash in a BIAB type deal, then plug the other in to get up to boiling but was told they would both need to be on different circuits/breakers. I only have 120 to work with as of now but am really debating trying to find a way to get the dryer outlet to the kitchen somehow or just stick with my propane for a bit longer until I can get s dedicated 220 for brewing somehow.

 

[augiedoggy]

The only main reason I was looking at the boil coil was that I would only have one element in the kettle and see that Scortching is unlikely with it. However I have considered 2 1500 watt ULWD elements, one used through the PID and recirculating the mash in a BIAB type deal, then plug the other in to get up to boiling but was told they would both need to be on different circuits/breakers. I only have 120 to work with as of now but am really debating trying to find a way to get the dryer outlet to the kitchen somehow or just stick with my propane for a bit longer until I can get s dedicated 220 for brewing somehow.

if you run an extension cord from another room from a circiut thats controlled by another breaker you can power both 1500w elements thats what many people do... personally if your going that route I would use the 8" induction plate with the temp controller built in for $60 and then plug the second element in directly . Or use 2 "hot rods" from bobby so you dont have to permanently mount the elements in your kettle... that would make cleanup a breeze...

If you have a laundry room with a 240v outlet but dont want to brew there you can make an extension cord with a gfci built in also...

 

[dyqik]

Augie, why do you think that the 2250W boilcoil needs a 30A circuit?

The 2250W Boilcoil's rated voltage is 120V, so it should be 6.4 Ohm and draw 18.75A to produce 2250W on 120V. AIUI, this means it should be fine for use on 20A (only thing on circuit, in continuous full power use for less than 3 hours use, etc.). At a more typical 115V line voltage, it'll draw just a hair under 18A, and produce just over 2066W, or 1890W at 110V.

Virtually all elements and other heating devices are advertized at the maximum rated voltage, either 120 or 240V for domestic applications. Obviously the current ratings need to be given at the maximum voltage for safety, but power draw is usually given at the same voltage as well.

 

[jcs401]

if you run an extension cord from another room from a circiut thats controlled by another breaker you can power both 1500w elements thats what many people do... personally if your going that route I would use the 8" induction plate with the temp controller built in for $60 and then plug the second element in directly . Or use 2 "hot rods" from bobby so you dont have to permanently mount the elements in your kettle... that would make cleanup a breeze...

If you have a laundry room with a 240v outlet but dont want to brew there you can make an extension cord with a gfci built in also...

8" induction plate with a temp controller? Also what do you mean by "hot rods" from Bobby?

 

[augiedoggy]

Augie, why do you think that the 2250W boilcoil needs a 30A circuit?

The 2250W Boilcoil's rated voltage is 120V, so it should be 6.4 Ohm and draw 18.75A to produce 2250W on 120V. AIUI, this means it should be fine for use on 20A (only thing on circuit, in continuous full power use for less than 3 hours use, etc.). At a more typical 115V line voltage, it'll draw just a hair under 18A, and produce just over 2066W, or 1890W at 110V.

Virtually all elements and other heating devices are advertized at the maximum rated voltage, either 120 or 240V for domestic applications. Obviously the current ratings need to be given at the maximum voltage for safety, but power draw is usually given at the same voltage as well.

Your right of course... I am not sure why I though the boilcoil took over 20a.. I think it came up in the other thread... I should have realized it without doing the math :smack: since the 2000w elements only draw 16 amps... thats what I get for posting before morning coffee..

 

[augiedoggy]

8" induction plate with a temp controller? Also what do you mean by "hot rods" from Bobby?

This device allows you to set the element into the kettle and remove it easily...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

Yes the 8" induction plate I linked for you in the other thread... its fine for a 14"stainless kettle...
also as mentioned above the boilcoil WILL work on one 20a circuit. you just cant power anything else off the same circuit.

 

[dyqik]

Your right of course... I am not sure why I though the boilcoil took over 20a.. I think it came up in the other thread... I should have realized it without doing the math :smack: since the 2000w elements only draw 16 amps... thats what I get for posting before morning coffee..

I posted in the other thread to correct that mistake - I quoted Wilserbrewer rather than you though.

 

[jcs401]

Ok. Last question, what type of outlet is needed to plug the boil coil into? The plug on the 120 elements do not look like the standard outlets? Also, can I buy the outlet locally say Home Depot for the boil coil?

 

[augiedoggy]

yes its a 20a 120v plug

 

[BrunDog]

It seems most 120VAC home appliances cap out at 2kW. Not sure why, maybe some UL thing? Or is it an expected 15A circuit more likely.

 

[Gameface]

Ok. Last question, what type of outlet is needed to plug the boil coil into? The plug on the 120 elements do not look like the standard outlets? Also, can I buy the outlet locally say Home Depot for the boil coil?

It's a 240v 30a plug in the picture, but that's because most of the boilcoils are 240v. I'd assume the 120v model has a standard wall outlet plug.

 

[jcs401]

They say the 120 is a L5-20P??

 

[BrunDog]

Makes sense. This would require a 20A outlet.

 

[TexasWine]

They say the 120 is a L5-20P??

Not a standard outlet.

View attachment 1452357819338.jpg

 

[Gameface]

They say the 120 is a L5-20P??

You could use one of these.

 

[Wagon_6]

You could use one of these.

That's what I did to convert my eBIAB to a 2000w BrewEasy.

 

[jcs401]

What is this cable called?

 

[Bobby_M]

That's a 5-20P to L5-20R adapter. However, since you have to run into a controller anyway, you'd just make your controller power supply have a 5-20P on it and then have the controller have a L5-20R receptacle on it for the boil coil to plug into.

 

[Wagon_6]

Another suggestion for a PID controller:

110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=341219

It's compact and looks cool. I use it with my 2000w boil cool.

 

[jcs401]

It's been a while but here is my all on one BIAB system that's still up and coming. Please share advice and feed back.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455888213.303589.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455888229.320663.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1455888241.789775.jpg

 

[noiz2]

I was editing my post while you were typing... technically the boilcoil requires a 30a circiut to meet code... your 20a kitchen outlets might work but they will most likely blow the breaker after 20 mins or so... honestly I dont usderstand the marketing strategy of such an element..

My guess is theres a good chance the 2250w is inflated marketing hype and its actually less powerful and able to run on a 20a circuit.. you would need to contact blichmann or test it yourself with a meter to see how many watts it actually is. most elements are overestimated in power... one of my 4500w elements is only 4200w in reality...
that said if it really is only like 2100w your going to have long waits and youll have to insulate your kettle.

that controller would work though... even though its only rated for 20a and your element is rated for 21-22 amps of draw?

sorry man I know this has to be a bit overwhelming and frustrating.. I was in the same boat until I just decided to spend the $120 on a 240v gfci circuit. it made everyth8ing else easier...

are you sure you dont have a 240v oulet behind your stove? or in your laundry room? some houses have both hookups

***** should have read to the end some of this was already corrected*******
OK Old thread but I wanted to correct some bad info that keeps getting repeated here. The formula for Wattage is V x A. So 120V x 20A = 2400W. Most home outlets are wired for 15A resulting in 1800W, which you see as a rating a lot. The boil coil mentioned draws 17A so should be fine on a 20A circuit. The twistLock 120 connector Blickman is using is the standard connector for 30A 120V outlets.
*****Actually the one pictured is a 20A. Twistlok are a common industrial connector because they don't pull out and the grounding is a better design. Household 20A plugs look like the one pictured with one prong at 90 degrees to the other.*******
If yours is coming with that it is so it is compatible with their controllers. From what I am reading now (2020) though the 7.5 Gal. BoilCoil ships with a standard 120V connector, or at least some do.

So the short answer is yes you could get an adapter and plug it straight into the wall. Not a great choice but it would work providing the outlet is actually rated for 20A. If an electrician installed it one of the slots in the receptacle should look like a T on it's side. If both slots are just slots then the receptacle is only rated for 15A. Still probably fine but I would check that the circuit is actually wired for 20A because pulling 17A though it is going to make the wires hot and that is NOT a good thing.

I do agree that going to 240V is just in general a better choice, a lot more power available. But if you definitely want to stay 120 I would consider a lower wattage element so you are not limited in where you can plug it in. Drop it to 1800W or 1500W and you can use it just about anywhere.

 

[Antonio Martinez]

I am looking at making a PID controller for the blichmann 120v 2250 watt boil coil. I was told/read that the plug on this is not your standard outlet plug. Does anyone know what outlet I could use to install it on the PID controller?
Also, if I plugged the boil coil into the PID controller, could I then just use a standard plug and plug it into my gfci kitchen outlets which have a 20amp breaker??
Please help

To answer one of your first questions the boilcoil uses either a round L5-20p for the 120v and L6-30p for the 240v. You can find short adapter cables for standard household 20a 120v outlets online for around $16.

 

[augiedoggy]

To answer one of your first questions the boilcoil uses either a round L5-20p for the 120v and L6-30p for the 240v. You can find short adapter cables for standard household 20a 120v outlets online for around $16.

Since the question was asked 4 years ago I hope the OP already figured this out.. this is a Zombie thread.