First time mead advice

[OldYamaha]

Been a lurker here for 5 years, mostly just reading and heading advice to others, but now asking for imput.
Had 5#s of honey and decided to try mead. I am a little surprised at how fast the 2 - 1 gallon bottles are going.
So divided the 5#s equally by weight, used 2 1 gallon plastic juice bottles. Just honey and water, nothing extra
Water was city chlorinated tap at about 85 degrees shook until completely dissolved gave me (A)1.092 and (B)1.096 2 bottles.
QUESTION? Does that ABV sound about right for 2.5 #s of just honey?

Added 1 tsp of LD Carlson Yeast Nutrient(contains Urea and Diammonium Phosphate) to each and 1/2 tsp Yeast energizer each.
Did my Lalvin KV1 1116 yeast in 1 pint of 85 degree warm water. divided that 2 ways, shook bottles to mix and aerate and put airlocks on at 5pm on the 7th of Oct.
Room temp is a fairly constant 68 degrees
On the 10th in the afternoon both gallons were at 1.060 and 1.066. So I added 1/2 teaspoon each Yeast nutrient and stirred. (oops one bottle stirred nice and one FOOOOoommmed. Lesson learned, stir 1st add second )

QUESTION? Is that fast for mead?
Today(10/11/20) I tested ABV and the original (A)1.092 bottle was at 1.03 and the other (B)is at 1.042 so I added 1/4 teaspoon Yeast nutrient to (A) and will recheck (B) tomorrow.
Again QUESTION? is this fast for mead?

My intent is to rack both at 1.00 into glass and add Blackberries to one and leave the other just plain.
QUESTION: does this sound ok? any suggestions? Something I should do differently on the next batch of 5#s of honey?
OldYamaha

 

[CKuhns]

A)1.092 and (B)1.096 2 bottles.
QUESTION? Does that ABV sound about right for 2.5 #s of just honey?
- Yep pretty close to what I would expect

Is that fast for mead?
Oct 7th - 11th dropped from 1.092 to 1.030 is pretty fast. With 1116 Yeast @ 68 Deg F and adding nutrients the way you did is certainly not out of the "norm". It will likely slow down from here a bit. (But 1116 is pretty aggressive and will chew through the remaining sugars in the next few weeks.)

My intent is to rack both at 1.00 into glass and add Blackberries to one and leave the other just plain.
Great plan! - 1.000 (Watch the 3rd decimal place.)

Something I should do differently on the next batch of 5#s of honey?
Consider using purchased Spring water vs. chlorinated tap water. Municipal water treatment chemicals can sometimes cause issues with yeast activity and cause off flavors. (Obviously not on this batch) - Just keep perfecting your practices and protocols and adjust as you gain experience.

 

[OldYamaha]

Corrected 1.000 ish.
Maybe the water did affect the flavor, tastes a little yeasty, but today (A) was down to 1.024 and (B) is 1.030.
(I never pour the ABV test back in the brew must, gotta sample each stage.)
I will try natural spring water next time. I only have 3 glass gallon jugs. (gotta drink more cheap wine )
Thanks,

 

[videojunkie1208]

6-10 points per day is pretty typical for properly cared for yeast. (YMMV, but not atypical in my experience).

That yeasty flavor should mellow out as you get closer to 1.000. (The yeast run out of food, and drop out of suspension). I would expect it to hit 1.000 in 2-3 weeks. Then you can stick it in your fridge to crash it before racking onto your berries (which you should have washed, and treated with campden beforehand. )

I'm always wary of pouring samples back in, it was one of the driving forces behind me upsizing my equipment... the other was I wanted more to drink and share.

 

[OldYamaha]

Somewhere I read to mash and freeze the berries, is that legit?
Camden before freezing?

 

[videojunkie1208]

Somewhere I read to mash and freeze the berries, is that legit?
Camden before freezing?

For fresh berries:
Freeze -> thaw -> campden -> freeze -> thaw -> mash -> brew.

If you're using pre-packaged frozen ones, they're usually already washed with something to kill the yeast on the surfaces of the berries.(usually over chlorinated water - the grocer doesn't want peoples purchases to start self fermenting) usually you can just thaw and mash.

 

[Toxxyc]

I would aim to reduce the ABV a tiny bit if you're planning on making more traditionals. I find most traditional meads can get a bit "harsh" or a bit overpowering if you break too far over 10% ABV at the end. You should also look into stabilizing and backsweetening. I like to backsweeten my sweet meads to 1.010~1.012, and my off-dry meads to around 1.006~1.008. It breaks bit of that dry tartness and makes them drinkable significantly quicker.

I've also backsweetened my meads before using fruit juice concentrates. I made one a year or so ago and kinda forgot about it. Bottled it the other day after it's been sitting for over a year. It is simply amazing. Not too sweet, but fruity and smooth. Highly recommended!

 

[CKuhns]

Somewhere I read to mash and freeze the berries, is that legit?

You certainly can. If it makes you feel better.
But not really necessary. I literally just wash them, freeze them and dump them into secondary. (Use a mesh sanitized bag and large mouth fermenter.) No thaw no mash & no campden.

The risk of mashing them is you may release the pectin and your cider will be cloudy without pectic Enzyme to consume it.

Berries will break down and release all their flavor in less than 2 weeks.

 

[videojunkie1208]

After 2 weeks, you'll want to pull

I would aim to reduce the ABV a tiny bit if you're planning on making more traditionals. I find most traditional meads can get a bit "harsh" or a bit overpowering if you break too far over 10% ABV at the end. You should also look into stabilizing and backsweetening. I like to backsweeten my sweet meads to 1.010~1.012, and my off-dry meads to around 1.006~1.008. It breaks bit of that dry tartness and makes them drinkable significantly quicker.

I've also backsweetened my meads before using fruit juice concentrates. I made one a year or so ago and kinda forgot about it. Bottled it the other day after it's been sitting for over a year. It is simply amazing. Not too sweet, but fruity and smooth. Highly recommended!

I would worry less about ABV, and more about technique and sanitation. I've never made a mead below 15%ABV, and the only times I've had anyone complain about the alcohol is when they can't walk straight after drinking too many glasses.

I also make all of my meads dry (I prefer them that way) usually my FG is ~ 0.995 and my cranberry in particular is always perceived as 'sweet' and if it had more residual sugar would be cloyingly so. (it's also well above 18% ABV and my favorite response from a non-drinker was 'well that goes down easy'..)

I would however, caution about leaving it on the fruit too long as you can get some un-wanted tannin flavors, and as CKuhns suggests pectic clouding (pectic enzyme is and easy add to make at pretty much any time during the process.. I would add it with your fruit.)

Cheers!

 

[Toxxyc]

Fully understood, but it's easier to mess up a high ABV mead, specially when you're a newbie. There's more to consider, and the yeast stresses easier. I've also made a few very high ABV meads before, but I've always found them sometimes a bit overwhelming (not hot, just too "much"). I find my sweet spot at 11% ABV, and that's with proper technique and sanitizing and all that.

Baby steps, is all I'm saying

 

[OldYamaha]

Baby steps, is all I'm saying

Thanks. This is a first, so this is very much baby steps.
Someone said use a large mouth jar, well that I don't have, that's why I asked about mashing the berries-easier to clean out the 1 gallon glass vinegar jars after the second racking.
My thought on ABV 1.000 was to leave it a smidgen sweet, but then won't the Berries add their sweetness after the must has been crashed?

After 2 weeks, you'll want to pull


[QUOTE}

I would worry less about ABV, and more about technique and sanitation. I've never made a mead below 15%ABV, and the only times I've had anyone complain about the alcohol is when they can't walk straight after drinking too many glasses.

I also make all of my meads dry (I prefer them that way) usually my FG is ~ 0.995 and my cranberry in particular is always perceived as 'sweet' and if it had more residual sugar would be cloyingly so. (it's also well above 18% ABV and my favorite response from a non-drinker was 'well that goes down easy'..)

I would however, caution about leaving it on the fruit too long as you can get some un-wanted tannin flavors, and as CKuhns suggests pectic clouding (pectic enzyme is and easy add to make at pretty much any time during the process.. I would add it with your fruit.)

Cheers!

Cranberry? do you use fresh cranberries or dried cranberries?

 

[videojunkie1208]

Neither, I use Ocean Spray 100% juice cranberry juice. (Yes, I know it's a blend of juices) I make 8 gallons in a batch and it doesn't last long...

Ratios are 6 gallons of juice and 2 gallons of honey (about 24lbs.). SG is about 1.150 (I don't have my notes in front of me), For a 1 gallon batch, I'd use ~1/2 gallon of Cranberry juice (100% juice) and ~3lbs of honey. add yeast ( D47) and nutrients (TOSNA 3.0) at the 1/2 sugar break add the remaining 1/4 gallon of cranberry juice and ferment until SG is below 1.010 (usually about 3-4 weeks). Rack into a clean vessel, top with additional cranberry juice to remove headspace (it will re-ferment a bit, but the late additions of juice punch up the flavor profile), and let sit for 3-9 months to clear and age a bit. It's drinkable out of the fermenter at almost every stage, it gets a little funky when the SG is between 1.030 and 1.010 and the alcohol flavor punches out. Enjoy.

 

[OldYamaha]

Neither, I use Ocean Spray 100% juice cranberry juice. (Yes, I know it's a blend of juices) I make 8 gallons in a batch and it doesn't last long...

Ratios are 6 gallons of juice and 2 gallons of honey (about 24lbs.). SG is about 1.150 (I don't have my notes in front of me), For a 1 gallon batch, I'd use ~1/2 gallon of Cranberry juice (100% juice) and ~3lbs of honey. add yeast ( D47) and nutrients (TOSNA 3.0) at the 1/2 sugar break add the remaining 1/4 gallon of cranberry juice and ferment until SG is below 1.010 (usually about 3-4 weeks). Rack into a clean vessel, top with additional cranberry juice to remove headspace (it will re-ferment a bit, but the late additions of juice punch up the flavor profile), and let sit for 3-9 months to clear and age a bit. It's drinkable out of the fermenter at almost every stage, it gets a little funky when the SG is between 1.030 and 1.010 and the alcohol flavor punches out. Enjoy.

Is there a noticeable difference between LD Carlson Yeast Nutrient and FermAid O ?

 

[videojunkie1208]

I honestly don't know about the chemistry of nutrients and yeasts to answer that, I only have Go Ferm and Fermaid O in my brew kitchen. (aside from some gluten-free beer specific enzyme mixes: Ceremix and Ondea Pro)

 

[OldYamaha]

I searched this at Northern Brewers and altho they list them, not really an explanation as to why use what.
https://www.northernbrewer.com/blog...ient-vs-energizer-which-should-i-use-and-when.

 

[videojunkie1208]

The calculations for total amounts may be different, but TOSNA is mostly about staggering the additions.

 

[Biehl Brewery]

Neither, I use Ocean Spray 100% juice cranberry juice. (Yes, I know it's a blend of juices) I make 8 gallons in a batch and it doesn't last long...

Ratios are 6 gallons of juice and 2 gallons of honey (about 24lbs.). SG is about 1.150 (I don't have my notes in front of me), For a 1 gallon batch, I'd use ~1/2 gallon of Cranberry juice (100% juice) and ~3lbs of honey. add yeast ( D47) and nutrients (TOSNA 3.0) at the 1/2 sugar break add the remaining 1/4 gallon of cranberry juice and ferment until SG is below 1.010 (usually about 3-4 weeks). Rack into a clean vessel, top with additional cranberry juice to remove headspace (it will re-ferment a bit, but the late additions of juice punch up the flavor profile), and let sit for 3-9 months to clear and age a bit. It's drinkable out of the fermenter at almost every stage, it gets a little funky when the SG is between 1.030 and 1.010 and the alcohol flavor punches out. Enjoy.

Just started my first blueberry mead batch Saturday and had a starting SG of 1.156 (1 gallon of blueberry puree, 17 lbs of honey, and 4 gallons of water = 6.5 gal). I used a 5 g pack of Lalvin K1-V1116, 6.5 tsp of LD Carlson Yeast Nutrient, 3 tsp of petic enzyme, and 6 camden tablets. Added nutrients and yeast (after rehydrating) to must (about 68 deg) in distilled water (about 40 g at 73ish deg for 20 mins) Sunday, which was 24 hours later. It's been a little over 72 hours since adding yeast and there has been very little bubbling (as in the lock just floats and that's it). What am I missing? Hopefully just patience. I'm used to things happening withing 24 hours but have read that different yeasts take different time to start (with Lalvin K1-V1116 being a quicker one of them).

I am using a 7.9-ish gallon plastic bucket from Home Brew Ohio, which is a first. I am assuming the seal on lid is good. Also, first time using Lalvin K1-V1116 yeast (usually used a Red Star brand). I have refrigerated the yeast since I bought mid-summer and let get back to room temp for about 24 hours before rehydrating (read that somewhere to avoid temp shock).

 

[videojunkie1208]

1.156 is a pretty high SG. I've never played with K1V, I usually use either D47 or EC-1118. (And at that high a gravity I would most likely choose EC-1118)I also almost always dump at least 2 packets of yeast in a 6 gallon batch. I'm going to guess that you're still in the pause phase as the yeast propagates through the must. You could check your SG to see if it's falling. (I usually take frequent samples over the first several days as I am adding nutrients.)

Make sure it's mixed well and has plenty of oxygen. You might consider re-pitching to make sure you have a viable yeast bed going.

Otherwise, I would rack off about a gallon of must, and stick it in the freezer. Add a gallon of water to drop your SG a few points, and then add the removed must back in when you rack it to fill up the dead space in your carboy.

 

[videojunkie1208]

Did you give the campden tablets 24 hours to outgas before adding the yeast?

 

[yaakov]

Just started my first blueberry mead batch Saturday and had a starting SG of 1.156 (1 gallon of blueberry puree, 17 lbs of honey, and 4 gallons of water = 6.5 gal). I used a 5 g pack of Lalvin K1-V1116, 6.5 tsp of LD Carlson Yeast Nutrient, 3 tsp of petic enzyme, and 6 camden tablets. Added nutrients and yeast (after rehydrating) to must (about 68 deg) in distilled water (about 40 g at 73ish deg for 20 mins) Sunday, which was 24 hours later. It's been a little over 72 hours since adding yeast and there has been very little bubbling (as in the lock just floats and that's it). What am I missing? Hopefully just patience. I'm used to things happening withing 24 hours but have read that different yeasts take different time to start (with Lalvin K1-V1116 being a quicker one of them).

I am using a 7.9-ish gallon plastic bucket from Home Brew Ohio, which is a first. I am assuming the seal on lid is good. Also, first time using Lalvin K1-V1116 yeast (usually used a Red Star brand). I have refrigerated the yeast since I bought mid-summer and let get back to room temp for about 24 hours before rehydrating (read that somewhere to avoid temp shock).

I ordered Ale Pails from Amazon...at least the picture was Ale Pail...and low and be hold, I got buckets from Home Brew Ohio instead. I read the reviews and people were complaining about the seal on this brand of buckets. The buckets also felt cheesy to me, i returned them and had my money back an hour later. Somebody showed a picture of a bucket Wrapped with Saran Wrap And showed it filled up like a balloon with leaking CO2. Just a thought...I am not condemning anything.

 

[videojunkie1208]

I've never used buckets. I started with 3 gallon glass carboys, and upgraded to a SS conical. I still use glass carboys for aging, although I am considering changing everything over to SS (using corny kegs as aging vessels with floating dip tubes to avoid the sediment), but I like watching the clarity improve through the glass.

 

[CKuhns]

Buckets work great for primary fermentation. Many folks just leave them open with a towel taped or rubber banded on them to keep it in place vs. trying to seal it up. The theory is the CO2 fills the heads space and does work as long as you rack to a carboy near end of primary. The risk... My grandson at about 3 years old came upstairs with mead to his armpit and a very wet Hot Wheels car. "Honest PaPa It just fell in"!

Consider a wide mouth fermenter with a drain valve. There are a couple brands out there.

 

[videojunkie1208]

There are also several SS bucket fermenters that are reasonably priced ($150 or less) that are robust, easy to clean and sanitize.
Anvil, SS Brewtech, and there are a number of them on Amazon from less reputable places.

You should also check out the Speidel vessels. An 8 gallon fermenter is $70.

 

[OldYamaha]

The calculations for total amounts may be different, but TOSNA is mostly about staggering the additions.

See OP.
Bottle (A) is ABV 1.011 and bottle (B) is ABV 1.000 Boy that was fast Started the 7th, and ABV 1.000 today(15th). Going to give (B) the Blackberries

Somewhere I read to mash and freeze the berries, is that legit?

You certainly can. If it makes you feel better.
But not really necessary. I literally just wash them, freeze them and dump them into secondary. (Use a mesh sanitized bag and large mouth fermenter.) No thaw no mash & no campden.

The risk of mashing them is you may release the pectin and your cider will be cloudy without pectic Enzyme to consume it.

Berries will break down and release all their flavor in less than 2 weeks.

When did you do the secondary, I mean at what ABV? I have an open mouth Kombucha 2 gallon jar, and (B) is at 1.000. Should I let it go further say to .996 before secondary and fruit?

 

[videojunkie1208]

See OP.
Bottle (A) is ABV 1.011 and bottle (B) is ABV 1.000 Boy that was fast Started the 7th, and ABV 1.000 today(15th). Going to give (B) the Blackberries

Absolutely. Whatever you do, try and minimize the oxygen contact, as you have alcohol in the mix now, and oxidized alcohol isn't tasty.

 

[OldYamaha]

See OP.
Bottle (A) is ABV 1.011 and bottle (B) is ABV 1.000 Boy that was fast Started the 7th, and ABV 1.000 today(15th). Going to give (B) the Blackberries

Absolutely. Whatever you do, try and minimize the oxygen contact, as you have alcohol in the mix now, and oxidized alcohol isn't tasty.

So I Should NOT use the open top kombucha jar?

 

[OldYamaha]

I usually cover my kombucha with a priority 1 mail envelope which breaths but sanitary. or do you mean don't stir the pot when transferring?

 

[Biehl Brewery]

1.156 is a pretty high SG. I've never played with K1V, I usually use either D47 or EC-1118. (And at that high a gravity I would most likely choose EC-1118)I also almost always dump at least 2 packets of yeast in a 6 gallon batch. I'm going to guess that you're still in the pause phase as the yeast propagates through the must. You could check your SG to see if it's falling. (I usually take frequent samples over the first several days as I am adding nutrients.)

Make sure it's mixed well and has plenty of oxygen. You might consider re-pitching to make sure you have a viable yeast bed going.

Otherwise, I would rack off about a gallon of must, and stick it in the freezer. Add a gallon of water to drop your SG a few points, and then add the removed must back in when you rack it to fill up the dead space in your carboy.

Yes, it's the highest I've gone but I've read of higher SG's. Actually was slowly bubbling this morning when I checked so some relief there. I did think about adding two packets but honestly just forgot to. I was going to pitch in another packet yesterday but thought I would wait for comments (I suspected I should have done two and the high sugar caused the delay). I plan to pitch in a packet today and add some more nutrients after aerating (I've done this daily but forgot to mention in first post). The SG didn't change when I checked after two days but I suspect it will later today when I aerate.

Yes, I always wait 24 hours after campden tablets have been added. Found out the hard way on a batch early on.

The bucket does have a seal and seems to be working. I usually wet it before placing it back on. I do agree with @CKuhns that the CO2 fills the space (CO2 is more dense than air) so wasn't extremely worried about the seal not 100% working.

Appreciate all the comments and did learn a few things.

 

[videojunkie1208]

So I Should NOT use the open top kombucha jar?

Not at this stage I wouldn't. If you have a close fitted lid for the jar that might work. You will need something with a big enough opening to manage your fruit, but can be sealed (with an airlock) so that it doesn't introduce too much O2.

 

[TheBluePhantom]

on the blueberry question. I did a blueberry wine, it was also slow to start. i remember checking the forums, and blueberries are usually slow. also, you should start a different question in a separate thread, gets better attention.