First time kegging lager, is it OK to pressurize keg then disconnect CO2?

[njohnsoncs]

A check valve is a spring loaded ball travelling in a tight bore that prevents down stream pressure from traveling back up to the regulator should the latter be at a lower pressure than the former (think a fully charged keg that is then connected to a regulator with the pressure setting dialed much lower). It's really there to prevent beer from shooting back up the gas line should a keg be over filled above the gas dip tube (or if one swapped dip tubes in a keg by accident). They are often included inside the shut off valves on regulators, and according to your link your regulator includes one.

Check valves require a certain amount of pressure to open (typically around .5 psi) and anything down stream could see that much lower pressure as a result. Shipping a large volume of gas can rattle check valves enough to make them hum or even affect the low pressure gauge reading as they move between constriction and open - as I said I have one that definitely hums if I'm charging up a fresh keg.

As for the regulator I know zip about that make as I have Taprite, Chudnow and Micromatic regulators. But to this point there's nothing to suggest there's anything wrong with yours, just that it could need some exercise to break in the mechanics...

Cheers!

Interesting. My keg was pressurized to between 20-30 psi after I racked to it which was about 5 days ago. I then just connected the CO2 tank and set the pressure to 9 psi so from what you're saying the difference in pressure could be hitting that check valve and making it rattle?

Is it OK to just let it rattle? Will it eventually stop?

 

[okiedog]

+1 for the reg. needing exercise. I have an off brand (can't remember which, now). When I first got it, I had a hard time getting a consistent pressure reading, but five years later, it works just fine.

As day trippr indicated, I'd exercise the regulator adjustment valve. Close the gas out shutoff valve (to your kegs or manifold), and close the valve on top of the CO2 tank. Then rotate the your adjustment knob in each direction several times, until hopefully, it turns smoothly.

Then in this order: 1. rotate the regulator adjustment knob all the way counterclockwise, 2. open the valve on the top of the tank, 3. adjust the regulator to your desired pressure, 4. open gas out valve.

That has worked for me. I hope this helps, and isn't too confusing to you.

 

[day_trippr]

Interesting. My keg was pressurized to between 20-30 psi after I racked to it which was about 5 days ago. I then just connected the CO2 tank and set the pressure to 9 psi so from what you're saying the difference in pressure could be hitting that check valve and making it rattle?

Is it OK to just let it rattle? Will it eventually stop?

The way a ball and spring check valve works if the pressure is higher at the keg end than the regulator end that pressure slams the ball against the upstream end of its travel (assisted by the spring) closing off the flow. Otoh, when the regulator pressure is higher than the keg end the flowing gas will overcome the spring and shove the ball off its stop, allowing gas to flow.

So the rattling or humming will happen when gas is passing from the regulator through to the output/keg end, as the gas battles the spring. In the other direction the ball is pinned and isn't going anywhere.

Will it ever stop? No idea. Mine still hums after close to ten years now so I suspect it'll be there forever. Doesn't bother either of us

Cheers!

 

[njohnsoncs]

I just checked and my psi, which was set at 9 psi, is down to 8 psi. So I rotated the regulator knob to increase the pressure to 9 psi but it keeps climbing past that really slowly. Is this normal? If so, how do I know what to set it at so that the ending psi is what I want?

 

[day_trippr]

Regulator knobs can be touchy if the mechanics are notchy, it seems like the knob wants to end up just on the far side of "just right", so you may have to back down a bit and try to sneak up on your final setting again. Usually once you hit the sweet spot it'll stay there...

Cheers!

 

[SoCal-Doug]

You kegging a lager. I assume this means you will be lagering (doing nothing, sitting there, chilling, aging, feeling the love) for 2 to 4 weeks? So... shove it in the fridge, plug in your CO2 at whatever serving pressure you normally use. Vent it a couple times to get rid of any oxygen. Forget about it and leave it alone. By the time your lagering is complete, you will be fully carbonated and ready to enjoy. Done. No need to over think it or work so hard.

If you are in a hurry and gotta have fizz yesterday, you can do the force-carb thing. Chill it FIRST down into the 30's or low 40's (cold beer absorbs CO2 much better than warm beer). Hit it with 30 PSI. While the CO2 is connected, shake rattle and roll it around for 5 or 10 minutes. On its side is better because there is more liquid to CO2 surface area to absorb the fizz gas. Rest your arms, then do it again. You have a mostly carbonated beer by the time your arms are numb.

 

[njohnsoncs]

You kegging a lager. I assume this means you will be lagering (doing nothing, sitting there, chilling, aging, feeling the love) for 2 to 4 weeks? So... shove it in the fridge, plug in your CO2 at whatever serving pressure you normally use. Vent it a couple times to get rid of any oxygen. Forget about it and leave it alone. By the time your lagering is complete, you will be fully carbonated and ready to enjoy. Done. No need to over think it or work so hard.

If you are in a hurry and gotta have fizz yesterday, you can do the force-carb thing. Chill it FIRST down into the 30's or low 40's (cold beer absorbs CO2 much better than warm beer). Hit it with 30 PSI. While the CO2 is connected, shake rattle and roll it around for 5 or 10 minutes. On its side is better because there is more liquid to CO2 surface area to absorb the fizz gas. Rest your arms, then do it again. You have a mostly carbonated beer by the time your arms are numb.

Yes, I'm lagering. I have now connected my CO2 and plan to lager for 4 weeks so it should be carbed by then. My concern now is what I described in post #34 - getting the exact psi dialed in seems unusually tricky.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

My concern now is what I described in post #34 - getting the exact psi dialed in seems unusually tricky

You probably wont notice a difference between 8 and 9 psi on the finished product. Go with post #32 for setting it, and day tripper's recommend to error on the low side.

Whether you are set at 3 PSI or 40 PSI, it will make zero difference on your beer during lagering. But overcarb'ed beer a month from now will be frustrating when you are tasting your efforts and only get foam

 

[njohnsoncs]

You probably wont notice a difference between 8 and 9 psi on the finished product. Go with post #32 for setting it, and day tripper's recommend to error on the low side.

Whether you are set at 3 PSI or 40 PSI, it will make zero difference on your beer during lagering. But overcarb'ed beer a month from now will be frustrating when you are tasting your efforts and only get foam

Regardless if I can notice the difference between 8 and 9 psi, it's the fact that I cannot set my psi to what I want and have it stay there.

I looked again today and it fell from 10 psi to 8 psi. The CO2 tank has been in the freeze for a few days now so I doubt it's still cooling down. Can anyone tell me why my pressure is dropping?

 

[day_trippr]

It's quite common to have to tweak the regulator if you stick it in a fridge/keezer. Once it finally reaches terminal temperature and you've tweaked it once again it's likely to stick there...

Cheers!

 

[njohnsoncs]

It's quite common to have to tweak the regulator if you stick it in a fridge/keezer. Once it finally reaches terminal temperature and you've tweaked it once again it's likely to stick there...

Cheers!

I'm guessing it's reached terminal temperature. Both the keg and CO2 tank have been in the freezer for a few days at 34 F (though it does go +/- 1 F). I have been adjusting it back to 9 psi and it still doesn't stay... is this normal?

 

[SoCal-Doug]

Temp changes are not going to effect the "output" pressure reading, but the "tank volume indication" will decrease as the tank contents get colder (don't think that you are losing gas, when it warms back up, the tank volume will come back up also).

Temperature will however have an effect on the metal spring inside the regulator, which will change your pressure setting. It should stabilize within a day or three of being put into or removed from the fridge, then you can adjust it and it should stay put. It should not continue to change. If you actually freeze the regulator, where ice crystals are forming in the orifices and spring, then yes, odd things can happen.

Or... You brand of regulator may simply not be able to regulate down to +/- 1 PSI increments accurately. The whole spring-valve-metal-screw thing is really not a high tech design. Beer systems don't need or use medical grade or commercial regulators.

It's best to have the CO2 tank and regulator outside of the kegerator if possible.

 

[njohnsoncs]

Interestingly, I just connected my liquid hose to the out post and found that my psi is stable. I set it to 9 psi, pulled the relief valve on the regulator and noticed it went right back to 9 psi (pretty quickly) and it has been there for the past 24 hours.

Now, the question is, why is this happening? Any ideas?

 

[day_trippr]

Ah...your regulator has settled down?

Cheers!

 

[njohnsoncs]

Ah...your regulator has settled down?

Cheers!

It seems quite the coincidence that it happened right when I connected my liquid line...