First Time Brewer, Too Ambitious?

[jalc6927]

This may have been covered but if not, search the online brew stores to see if any of them have a kit similar to the NEIPA, you want and try it first as a partial/ extract. This will give you the best chance to be successful and in reality the difference between partial/ biab/ AG is small especially for a new brewer, there's always time to be a "beer snob" down the road, lol

 

[SJMC]

Quick update!

Bought a 30 litre Cygnet water boiler from a top bloke called Nick who was very generous and also gave me a great deal on some other equipment (if you're reading this - thanks mate!).

Now I have a 30 litre water boiler (with grill at the bottom to prevent burning), a bottling bucket with tap installed, a bottle filler, a BIAB bag and hop socks.

Now just need to get a primary fermentation bucket, thermometer, hydrometer, some bottles with caps and a bottle capper, a good brewing spoon and the ingredients! Although I am considering maybe kegging instead of bottling now, is there a good cheap way to do so? I'm not talking about a proper Corny keg setup yet, are there any viable cheaper options?

Thanks for everyone's help so far! Brew day is looming!

 

[bleme]

There is a good article about the 5-liter mini kegs. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/pros-cons-5l-kegs.html

You could get a carbonation cap and use 2-liter PET bottles.

You could do something like the Party Pig. http://www.homebrewing.org/Party-Pig-Beer-Dispenser_p_845.html

Or the Beer Box http://www.homebrewing.org/Beer-Box-kit_p_5083.html

All that said, I chose to go with a basic keg setup. I also have some carbonation caps but I only use those for homemade soda or for traveling with my beer.

 

[SJMC]

There is a good article about the 5-liter mini kegs. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/pros-cons-5l-kegs.html

You could get a carbonation cap and use 2-liter PET bottles.

You could do something like the Party Pig. http://www.homebrewing.org/Party-Pig-Beer-Dispenser_p_845.html

Or the Beer Box http://www.homebrewing.org/Beer-Box-kit_p_5083.html

All that said, I chose to go with a basic keg setup. I also have some carbonation caps but I only use those for homemade soda or for traveling with my beer.

Thanks bleme! I did some googling based on what you suggested and somehow found the collections of 500ml PET plastic bottles you can buy, 40 bottles for £10! I've got a bottling bucket so I'll just add the priming sugar in there and condition in the PET bottles.

Also heard it's good because you can check when the carbonation is done by feeling if the bottles are hard or need a little more time! A part of me feels like it's too good to be true for £10, any cons to that setup or should it work fine?

 

[bleme]

Those will work fine. As soon as they are carbed up, put one in the fridge. It needs at least a day to chill. 3 days is better, but nobody waits that long to try their first beer.

 

[mattdee1]

I've got about 2 cases of 500ml PET bottles and honestly, I love them. The only downside--if there is one--is that they look kind of cheesy. But if you pour your beer into a glass (as you should) then who cares?

As for starting recipe, I'm kind of inclined to be in the "brew whatever you feel like" camp. If you prepare yourself with basic process knowledge ahead of time--meaning, you proceed in an organized deliberate manner rather than always trying to hack, guess, and react your way out of perceived traps, etc.--the beer will almost certainly be good.

In fact, the "keep it simple" advice might actually work against you. To make a "successful" blonde ale, for example, you need to do everything right or you will get annoying off-flavors. With a hop-bomb, you can hide the rough edges. Bottom line, you're probably going to want to try all kinds of different styles eventually, so just pick one and go.

 

[SJMC]

Those will work fine. As soon as they are carbed up, put one in the fridge. It needs at least a day to chill. 3 days is better, but nobody waits that long to try their first beer.

40 500ml PET bottles have been ordered! As well as all the remaining equipment and ingredients for the first batch. Brew day is close!

 

[Kharnynb]

good luck, print a step by step guide in your own words, so you can follow it and at the same time get more familiar with your own personal process.

I do something like this with all my brews:

West vleteren 8 clone 10.9.2017

Malts
4.2 kg Pilsner
1 kg pale ale

Hops
Northdown 29g @ 60 minutes
Hallertau mittelfrue 29g @ 30 minutes
Styrian Goldings 14g @ 15 minutes

Mash
use 19 liters of water.
Mash in for 60 minutes @ 65 degrees c
step for 10 minutes @ 72 degrees
Mashout 15 minutes @ 77 degrees

sparge with 10 liters

Boil for 90 minutes with hops as prev.
Add sugars at 15 minutes.

 

[SJMC]

Mash is in progress! Think we've got the process down, hoping it all goes swimmingly, beer is coming!

 

[Dcpcooks]

Good luck sir!

 

[SJMC]

Finally cleared up and getting to bed, took an OG reading earlier which came to 1060 (1066 was estimated). Still not 100% sure what this means but figure it was because we added too much when sparging? Happy with that nonetheless!

Had a lovely deep orange/beige colour that got lighter towards the edges when left for a few minutes whilst it cooled, already looks close to what I wanted! Took a picture but it doesn't do it justice.

Excited to try it! Can anyone shed any light on my lower than expected gravity reading? I'm not bothered by it as I didn't expect everything to match the estimates but if there's a simple fix for next time I'd love to hear some advice! Thanks all

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Don't sweat the gravity, it just means your efficiency came in a bit lower than forecast (as we kinda suggested it might ) But you were within 10%, so that's fine, it's just a matter of tweaking - perhaps there was the odd doughball in the mash, the bag could have been squeezed a little more, a little bit too much sparge water, all these things can individuallly knock the odd percentage point off the efficiency.

But you're in the right ballpark, so that's all good - even if it looks like you had a late night!!!!

 

[RM-MN]

Finally cleared up and getting to bed, took an OG reading earlier which came to 1060 (1066 was estimated). Still not 100% sure what this means but figure it was because we added too much when sparging? Happy with that nonetheless!

Had a lovely deep orange/beige colour that got lighter towards the edges when left for a few minutes whilst it cooled, already looks close to what I wanted! Took a picture but it doesn't do it justice.

Excited to try it! Can anyone shed any light on my lower than expected gravity reading? I'm not bothered by it as I didn't expect everything to match the estimates but if there's a simple fix for next time I'd love to hear some advice! Thanks all

You'll have a hard time telling the difference in a 1.060 beer compared to a 1.066 so you are good there. Going forward, you need to take good measurements if you want a consistent result. Marking your boil pot so you know how much wort your collect from the mash, marking your container of sparge water so you know how much you put in there so that it matches the difference in what you collected and what you need for pre-boil. Measure what you have left after you boil too. With accurate measurement you can then determine the efficiency you got and can make adjustments in the software to accommodate that efficiency.:rockin:

 

[SJMC]

You'll have a hard time telling the difference in a 1.060 beer compared to a 1.066 so you are good there. Going forward, you need to take good measurements if you want a consistent result. Marking your boil pot so you know how much wort your collect from the mash, marking your container of sparge water so you know how much you put in there so that it matches the difference in what you collected and what you need for pre-boil. Measure what you have left after you boil too. With accurate measurement you can then determine the efficiency you got and can make adjustments in the software to accommodate that efficiency.:rockin:

Great! I definitely thing that's where we were lacking, gonna make sure we keep a better track next time. Just took a hydrometer reading, 1.022 so almost at the goal already. Fermentation is happening! Hopefully drop a couple more off then dry hop for a few days, excited to try it!

 

[Dcpcooks]

Just a touch less booze than estimated. No big deal. Based on what you pulled off your ahead of the curve. You'll get the rest of it when you want to.

Now about it's about fermentation. Cheers

 

[SJMC]

Just a touch less booze than estimated. No big deal. Based on what you pulled off your ahead of the curve. You'll get the rest of it when you want to.

Now about it's about fermentation. Cheers

Seems to be fermenting nicely! Took that reading of 1.022 last night and it's still getting a few bubbles this morning so hopefully will reach the target of 1.018. Thinking about dry hopping this evening (72 hours in) if fermentation seems to have slowed/finished.

 

[RM-MN]

Seems to be fermenting nicely! Took that reading of 1.022 last night and it's still getting a few bubbles this morning so hopefully will reach the target of 1.018. Thinking about dry hopping this evening (72 hours in) if fermentation seems to have slowed/finished.

I'd probably give the beer another few days before dry hopping. 72 hours seems pretty short to me.:rockin:

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

For a NE IPA I'd have them in earlier. I'm not looking for traditional dry hopping practices. I've had good results on day two when there's still plenty of active fermentation left. Pick your gravity.

That being said, there is no one way to dry hop a NEIPA, or any beer.

 

[mongoose33]

Seems to be fermenting nicely! Took that reading of 1.022 last night and it's still getting a few bubbles this morning so hopefully will reach the target of 1.018. Thinking about dry hopping this evening (72 hours in) if fermentation seems to have slowed/finished.

I'd probably give the beer another few days before dry hopping. 72 hours seems pretty short to me.:rockin:

Funny. These were almost exactly the words that popped into my head when I saw the first comment above.

 

[SJMC]

I'd probably give the beer another few days before dry hopping. 72 hours seems pretty short to me.:rockin:

What are the effects of having them in too early? I've not looked into it as much as I probably should have. I'm almost home now so going to check the gravity and see where I'm at!

 

[SJMC]

Just took the gravity, 1.016 when the aim was 1.018, krausen has disappeared pretty much. Tried a little bit of the sample (I'm aware it won't taste much like the finished thing), it was very bitter with a strange off taste. Is that normal? Fermentation has definitely finished by the looks of things!

 

[65C]

From reading back you only put it in to primary 4 days ago?

At 3 weeks in primary you might get a hint at what it will be like - but likely will taste undrinkable, at 4 will usually improve a bit - I normally bottle around then

One week in bottle - it can be drinkable, two weeks usually very drinkable, 3 weeks improved more - at that point, for me, they can go either way - lighter beers sometimes get less drinkable, darks just keep getting better - any beer that tasted nasty at 1 week is usually a lot better after 3 or more

 

[SJMC]

From reading back you only put it in to primary 4 days ago?

At 3 weeks in primary you might get a hint at what it will be like - but likely will taste undrinkable, at 4 will usually improve a bit - I normally bottle around then

One week in bottle - it can be drinkable, two weeks usually very drinkable, 3 weeks improved more - at that point, for me, they can go either way - lighter beers sometimes get less drinkable, darks just keep getting better - any beer that tasted nasty at 1 week is usually a lot better after 3 or more

Thanks for the help! I've read that this isn't necessarily the case with NEIPA style beers, that they don't stay in primary very long compared to normal beers? I could be wrong. Have you had experience with this style? I'm finding out a few things seem to be quite different to the norm with NEIPAs.

 

[user 125772]

Eh ....I say, it's not rocket science, and you gotta start somewhere.
If you've got a mate to keep an eye on you , and don't mind risking a little coin (DIPAs aren't cheap) then give it a try.

Some folks seem to know what to do based on cooking fundamentals (i guess), Others struggle with simple procedures.
It's hard to argue that a Pale ale extract kit is NOT the best place to get your feet wet. Whatever it is, I guarantee that as long as you hit your marks with your first brew, you'll enjoy it.

Concerning the fermentation, you should plan on leaving it alone for 2 weeks minimum. After that it may be ready to bottle.
Congrats on your first brew!

 

[mongoose33]

What, of all the things related to brewing, is the hardest for new brewers to learn?

Water? No. Mash temps? No. Fermentation temps? No. Getting the crush right? No. Getting the timing of hop additions correct? No. Figuring out how to read a hydrometer? No. Learning to bottle? No. Getting the right amount of sugar in the beer prior to bottling? No. Cleaning? No. Sanitation? No. Reducing oxygen exposure post-fermentation? No. Rehydrating yeast? No. Making a starter? No. Building a recipe? No. Understanding a strange language including terms like sparge, vorlauf, mash, isomerization? No.

The single hardest thing for new brewers to learn is....patience.

**********

When you get some beer in the pipeline, it'll become easier to exercise patience. In the meantime, the advice above is pretty good advice. No reason to rush. It'll get there. Give the yeast a little time to clean up after working up a sweat. They'll reward you if you do.

BTW, one of the hardest things for new brewers to believe is....that beer conditions while it sits. Really. At least, it was for me. I still am amazed at how different beer can taste after a couple weeks of conditioning. I've had beers go from "bleccchhh!" to "Wow!" in that time.

Part of what can help with that is not being in a hurry to get the beer from the fermenter to the bottle. Give it a few days. Pick a flower. Look at the clouds in the sky. Think about cartoons you watched as a kid. Just....trust the advice people are giving you.

 

[user 125772]

LOL, ....and that's where the saying came from "Relax, don't worry, have a home brew" (RDWHAHB)

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I'd tend to agree - you don't want a NEIPA conditioning for as long as you would a traditional bitter for instance - part of the conditioning of a bitter is about letting a bit of oxygen in, which is the enemy of a beer that is as hop-led as a NEIPA. This time round I'd give it 7-10 days total, and then package. Even after fg there's still work for the yeast to do - but day 3 is not a bad time for a temperature change, either up or down, it encourages a few more esters.

On dry-hopping - it depends if you want biotransformation. In general biotransformation is a good thing as it adds some complexity as one chemical is metabolised into a variety of other ones, geraniol (floral) is transformed into a variety of citrus flavours for instance. If geraniol-rich hops like Bravo and Citra are being used and you want it to be biotransformed, then even 72 hours is too late for the full effect, particularly if you've had a brisk fermentation as here. For many other varieties, the timing is less critical.

 

[SJMC]

I'd tend to agree - you don't want a NEIPA conditioning for as long as you would a traditional bitter for instance - part of the conditioning of a bitter is about letting a bit of oxygen in, which is the enemy of a beer that is as hop-led as a NEIPA. This time round I'd give it 7-10 days total, and then package. Even after fg there's still work for the yeast to do - but day 3 is not a bad time for a temperature change, either up or down, it encourages a few more esters.

On dry-hopping - it depends if you want biotransformation. In general biotransformation is a good thing as it adds some complexity as one chemical is metabolised into a variety of other ones, geraniol (floral) is transformed into a variety of citrus flavours for instance. If geraniol-rich hops like Bravo and Citra are being used and you want it to be biotransformed, then even 72 hours is too late for the full effect, particularly if you've had a brisk fermentation as here. For many other varieties, the timing is less critical.

This is what I'd read about briefly! I was put off by a lot of people saying otherwise but think they were going off of traditional beer rules. I dry hopped last night (just under 65 hours since pitching) but fermentation had effectively finished so I'm guessing I missed the optimum point, no biggie, just means my next brew will be even better! Going to leave for a week now then check it.

Also I realise a lot of people on here are from the US, heartbroken to hear about the events in Las Vegas. Hope you and your loved ones are all safe, terrible news to wake up to.

 

[SJMC]

This is what I'd read about briefly! I was put off by a lot of people saying otherwise but think they were going off of traditional beer rules. I dry hopped last night (just under 65 hours since pitching) but fermentation had effectively finished so I'm guessing I missed the optimum point, no biggie, just means my next brew will be even better! Going to leave for a week now then check it.

Also I realise a lot of people on here are from the US, heartbroken to hear about the events in Las Vegas. Hope you and your loved ones are all safe, terrible news to wake up to.

I've just checked on the brew and I'm getting a lot of airlock activity, a couple of bubble pops every minute, I'm assuming it's the dry hopping causing it? My first thought was it was still fermenting but with a gravity reading of 1.016 last night after the krausen fell I'm assuming fermentation is done? The estimated FG was 1.018.

I'm not worried about any of this stuff (my co-brewer housemate keeps calling me paranoid about it!) I'd just like to learn more about each stage, and what is happening so I can be more informed about decisions in the future. I'm sure we're headed for great (or at least drinkable) beer!

 

[65C]

You can get bubbles for a *long* time after the official ferment is complete

I'm sat next to a couple of demis that have been going for 3+ weeks and even today one of them is popping a bubble every hour or so

I don't brew NEIPAs so maybe ignore some of my earlier comments about 4 weeks on primary, but brewing for me is a slow process - the longer I can leave it the better the beer

(I started brewing to make more hop forward brews that were hard to buy round here - but ended up making much more traditional brews now - I got bored with super-Citra really early on - it's all about Porters for me now)