First time BIAB - So much TRUB/Break/Schmutz!

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Patirck

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I just did my first two BIABs with my bag/pulley setup from wilserbrewer. I planned it out using beersmith for a no sparge full boil batch where I would end up with 5.5 gallons in the fermenter. I have a typical 3 vessel setup that I have been using for 10 gallon all grain batch or fly sparge brewing for the last several years. I must admit - its been a while since I did a 5 gallon batch so that was the biggest variable besides the BIAB no sparge process.

I did two separate 5 gallon batches so I could measure and get some reliable numbers on the process using my equipment. The first batch was a pilsner - since I was a bit wary of efficiency estimates, I went big so I would either end up with something huge (1.070) or if efficiency was a problem I would end up with a more typical 1.045 pilsner. Mash efficiency came in at 65% - not bad considering no sparge - I can live with it if I can count on it each time I brew. I ended up with 7.75 gallons pre-boil in my 15 gallon kettle. The first problem I ran into was boil off rate - it was much higher doing a 5 gallon batch than I was used to when I brew a 10 gallon batch.

I use a counterflow chiller that takes the boiling wort to about 85 in one pass. I recirculate in the kettle until the whole thing is down to about 75. With 5 gallon batches, I'm whirlpooling manually using a spoon during and after the chilling process. The wort looked a bit cloudy but not too bad on top when I drained into the fermenter.

I ran into 2 problems (I'm calling them problems but maybe its to be expected).

The first problem is that I ended up with about 4 gallons of wort in the kettle after leaving my typical 1 - 2 quarts in the kettle. The low amount into the fermenter was due to a bigger than expected boil off. I need to lower the boil so as not to boil off so much and/or increase my water/grain ratio to make up for this larger than expected boil off rate. I fear making what was already a super thin mash (by typical all grain standards) even more thin will effect the beer in some bad way.

The second and biggest problem- after putting 4 gallons of wort in the fermenter, I decided to water it down since it was a super imperial pilsner (1.079) and added 1.5 gallons of bottled water. I put it in my chest freezer to chill down from 75ish to 50 so I could pitch my yeast (dry boh pils yeast). The next morning I took it out and could see that about there was about 1.5 gallons of trub/break/schmutz. If I count up all the numbers - out of 4 gallons of wort, I lose 1.5 gallons to trub. This makes for really bad brewhouse efficiency.

I am anxious to hear if there is something I can do to reduce the amount of trub/break that ends up in the kettle. I never really had this issue when doing typical all-grain batches.

l am concerned that making my mash super, super thin to make up for the boil off rate and trub loss will be bad. This batch used a 16.5 pounds of grains and 8.5 gallons of water. If I were to make up for the trub and boil off rates by adding water, I would have had to use 11.5 gallons of water for 16.5 pounds of grain - this makes for a 2.78 quarts/lb of grain ratio - seems kind of scary high to me.

The second batch (a dunkel) was a bit better as I had a smaller grain bill knowing that my mash efficiency was 65%. I had a bit less trub but still about 1.5 gallons less wort in the fermenter - this time I let it chill/settle overnight and use a siphon to get the clear wort off the top and put it in the fermenter. I ended up with 4 gallons of pretty clear 1.059 wort - I decided not to dilute this as it was about what I expected gravity wise.

Overall - I LOVE the time and hassle savings with single vessel, no sparge BIAB. If I can figure out the trub issue, I'll be selling my single tier brewery pretty soon!
 
I agree with Wilserbrewer. I strain my wort going into the fermenter, which only catches most of the hops, but all of the break material and some of the hops make it into the fermenter and I only typically leave behind ~1/2g when I transfer to the keg. And I get clear beer when all is said and done.

Are you using Whirlfloc or Irish moss in the BK?
 
If you register as a user on BIABrewer.info, there are two very good BIAB calculators. One under the Master Guide Thread called calculator and another in the "temporary holding" thread called BIABAcus. Both of these while in metric help you factor in how much water you need for BIAB based on your kettle height, diameter, grain bill, etc. It also helps you take a regular all grain recipe and convert it into a full boil BIAB recipe (usually need more grain).
 
I agree with Wilserbrewer. I strain my wort going into the fermenter, which only catches most of the hops, but all of the break material and some of the hops make it into the fermenter and I only typically leave behind ~1/2g when I transfer to the keg. And I get clear beer when all is said and done.

Are you using Whirlfloc or Irish moss in the BK?

I always use either Whirlfloc or Irish moss - in both batches I used irish moss.

I'm still a bit concerned as the bucket o' wort sat in my chest freezer over night at 50*f and had very clear wort except the bottom 1.5 ish gallons that looked to be pure muck. I know it probably won't affect the beer, but still, I like to reuse yeast and having all this muck presents more of a challenge to harvest the yeast. I'm used to having perhaps quart of yeast/trub after primary for a 5.5 gallon batch that's been cold crashed. This seemed to be about 8x that.

After these two lagers finish, I'll try it again and perhaps be a little less worried about a third of the batch being trub and see how much it compacts after a few weeks fermenting and a cold crash.
 
The couple of times I did BIAB , I noticed much larger levels of not only hot break in the kettle but ultimately trub that ended up in the fermenter. I wasn't content to waste so much liquid so I went ahead and transferred most of it to the fermenter. The beer cleared just fine.

My bittering hop utilization on my BIAB beers was noticeably lower than my conventional mash tun fly sparge beers. Hot break binds with hop oils and I definitely noticed it. This didn't make me happy. My standard IPA was merely a pale ale. Even the aroma was low. I tried that recipe twice with BIAB and got the same results. I went back to the standard mash tun and fly sparge and my IPA was back. Go figure. I'd definitely have to tweak the recipe.
 
Any ideas why BIAB would have more hot break material than other AG methods? I thought hot break was flocculated/gelled proteins. Why would BIAB extract more proteins in the wort? Or does some hot break occur during mash, and gets filtered out by the grain bed? There could be some very fine flour making it thru a very fine mesh bag (like Wilser's), but that would not be hot break.

In my limited experience, all the trub compacts very nicely at the bottom of the fermenter with time and a cold crash. It may look like a very thick layer until it finishes compacting.

If you're worried about harvesting clean yeast, why not just make a bigger than required starter, and then harvest part of that for the next batch? Yeast from a starter will have much less embedded trub than from a fermentation.

Brew on :mug:
 
BIABer's creed should be: "Don't fear the trub!"

The first time I brewed in a bag, my fermenter looked like a snow globe for a day or two. It all settles out and you rack it off at bottling or kegging time. Put it all in the fermenter--you'll get it all back later.
 
I've only done one BIAB batch so far, after doing three vessel brewing for 16 years. When I modified the recipe in Beer Smith, I didn't account for leaving any hops or break in the kettle, and I ended up with three quarters of a gallon of trub after fermentation. I expected to leave a half. I also boiled off a quarter gallon more as well, and didn't top off as I hit the gravity I wanted. My next batch I'll plan on leaving more in the kettle after whirlpooling and letting it settle, and put in the new numbers for the boil off rate.
This week I'm brewing side by side batches of Biermuncher's OktoberFAST, one on my three vessel system, and one BIAB, then I'll have a blind triangle tasting to see if anyone can tell the difference.
 
I BIAB... fill the carboy, let nature do the rest. as far as your extra wort, I had to scale my water volume back from what Beersmith recommends... I dont get the boil off that most people seem to, but I only keep a rolling boil going, not an aggressive one.

good luck!
 
I'm curious to here how this turns out! Let us know your results!

I've only done one BIAB batch so far, after doing three vessel brewing for 16 years. When I modified the recipe in Beer Smith, I didn't account for leaving any hops or break in the kettle, and I ended up with three quarters of a gallon of trub after fermentation. I expected to leave a half. I also boiled off a quarter gallon more as well, and didn't top off as I hit the gravity I wanted. My next batch I'll plan on leaving more in the kettle after whirlpooling and letting it settle, and put in the new numbers for the boil off rate.
This week I'm brewing side by side batches of Biermuncher's OktoberFAST, one on my three vessel system, and one BIAB, then I'll have a blind triangle tasting to see if anyone can tell the difference.





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I'm curious to here how this turns out! Let us know your results!

I've only done one BIAB batch so far, after doing three vessel brewing for 16 years. When I modified the recipe in Beer Smith, I didn't account for leaving any hops or break in the kettle, and I ended up with three quarters of a gallon of trub after fermentation. I expected to leave a half. I also boiled off a quarter gallon more as well, and didn't top off as I hit the gravity I wanted. My next batch I'll plan on leaving more in the kettle after whirlpooling and letting it settle, and put in the new numbers for the boil off rate.
This week I'm brewing side by side batches of Biermuncher's OktoberFAST, one on my three vessel system, and one BIAB, then I'll have a blind triangle tasting to see if anyone can tell the difference.




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I'll do that. I'm teaching a Homebrewing class at a local community college and I'll be taking it to the last class when we talk about evaluation and tasting.

How did the tasting go? I know this is an older post. However it was very nice to read about my only concern with my first batch of BIABthat I will do within the next couple weeks.
 
It was a great experiment, but because I couldn't get matching gravities, the differences were pretty obvious. All the tasters could taste a difference, all but one preferred the BIAB batch, which came out maltier (but a slightly higher gravity).
I've made several BIAB batches, gotten medals on some of them, and really like doing double brew days where I brew different batches simultaneously. In fact, I'm selling my 10-gallon BIAB system and getting a 16 gallon pot to continue having the choice between the two, while being able to up the BIAB batch size.
 
I BIAB and just place a (sanitized) colander on top of my (sanitized) funnel when pouring into the carboy -- leaves most of the trubble behind; gravity and time take care of the rest.
 
I am very excited for my first BIAB brew. I have a Keggle that I plan to cool using a plate chiller. That clogging is my prime concern as I do not have an IC. any suggestions on how to ensure this isn't a problem?
 
I am very excited for my first BIAB brew. I have a Keggle that I plan to cool using a plate chiller. That clogging is my prime concern as I do not have an IC. any suggestions on how to ensure this isn't a problem?
Hop bags regardless of the form of hops you're using, and whirlpool and let the break material settle for 20-30 minutes before you run it through the chiller.
 

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