first "real" brew

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PAmike

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2012
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Location
Ridgway
I got a NB essential kit with caribou slobber ingredient kit. I brewed it last night I followed the directions exactly, I got a hydrometer reading of 1.058. pitched the dry yeast and sealed the bucket and installed the airlock. I didn't expect the ferment to start for at least a day, it started within 2-3 hours. I got up at 6am this morning and the bubbles were coming out of the airlock so fast I couldn't keep enough star san in it. I ended up sanitizing a piece of tubing, put one end in the bucket where the airlock goes and the other end in a jug full of star san. Now the tube is the whole way in the bottom of the star san and it is still bubbling pretty fast, actually a constant stream of bubbles no more than 1/4" apart. Ok, the question is did I do something wrong or something right?
 
Ok, the question is did I do something wrong or something right?

Yes, or maybe no. You have some really active yeast and pitched enough of it to get them past the replication stage and into the alcohol making stage pretty quickly. That's a good thing and the continued fast bubbling may or may not be so good. You may simply be fermenting your beer too warm which causes the yeast to go wild and eat the sugars really fast. This fast sugar eating isn't the best as the yeast get pretty crazy and throw off esters (fruity, banana odors) and/or fusel alcohols (gives your beer a "hot alcohol" bite). The ferment will slow down over the next 24 hours and it will look like it is finished but those looks are deceiving as the yeast continue to work, breaking down some of the byproducts they created. This take some time, a much slower process so give your beer plenty of time for the yeast to complete this phase too, something on the order of 2 to 4 weeks depending on the amount of alcohol expected to be produced. Use your hydrometer to determine when the beer is done, then rack to keg or bottle it.
 
Well I have made this recipe a lot and it always starts out this way. I think you are good and this is a great beer.

Roger
K5MOW
 
The only concern I have is that maybe the wort was too warm when the yeast was added, and that maybe it's too warm still.

If you have a stick-on thermometer so you can see the temperature, that's great. It should be less than 72 degrees.

Next time, make sure you don't add the yeast until the wort is under 70 degrees (or even lower) even if the instructions say "under 80 degrees".

If it's under 70 degrees, then never mind what I just said! :D
 
I added the yeast at 62 degrees so no worries there. I will see if I can find a stick on thermometer at my LHBS.
 
thanks yooper, I was wondering if that would work. is there any issue with it being on a plastic bucket? I mean will it be accurate as it would be on glass?
 
I have a non-contact infrared thermometer that works well measuring the temperature on the outside of the plastic bucket. It may not be totally accurate but what I am looking for is a temperature range. It said that my bucket was 64 degrees when in a 62 degree room at the height of the ferment. Had the wort been up to 65 or 66 it still would have made good beer. Accuracy isn't nearly as critical here.
 
Back
Top