first partial mash

[dstranger99]

Do this as a goof. Go to Northern Brewer, find one of there partial mash kits and read their instructions, it's so much more in depth and clearer than Midwests'. Check it out.....

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

I went ahead and stuck with midwest, Adding up everything at Austin's was still more expensive, but not much. I ordered the Boston Red from Midwest, shipping was $14. But the kit itself was just $24.99. Cheaper than extract...

Midwest's crush should be good for BIAB type mashes. Before I got my mill, I always crushed in store and got pretty good eff., though I did get an instant increase when I got my own mill. And yes, I agree, NB's kit instructions are far better than Midwest's, but.... as an in store shopper at both places, I vastly prefer Midwest. They're set up like a Home Depot type warehouse store, NB (especially the new Mpls location) reminds me of a trendy mall book store, like the ones with a coffee shop. Also, Midwest's employees are far more helpful/knowledgable than NB's, IME.

*disclaimer: I'm merely a customer, I shop both stores regularly, and just prefer Midwest.

 

[unionrdr]

I asked midwest to crush the grains for my cascade pale ale,& the grains were whole for the most part with lil cracks in the hulls. I then used a mini food processor to get it done to what I see on here. How'd yours look when you got them?

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

I asked midwest to crush the grains for my cascade pale ale,& the grains were whole for the most part with lil cracks in the hulls. I then used a mini food processor to get it done to what I see on here. How'd yours look when you got them?

Maybe they forgot to crush, or the mill they used needed resetting. I've crushed in store, they have two mills in their grain room, they're the same ones the employees use for mail order. I have had to set the mill there before, but they're usually set fairly fine (~.45).
Since you're ordering by mail, maybe have them mill your grain twice. You may have to call them to ask for that, but they'll do it.

The inconsistency in precrushed grain is my biggest reason for buying a mill of my own. Well, that and being able to buy base malts in bulk instead of per batch. Very much worth the investment.

 

[unionrdr]

Well,the mill I'm looking at is like $130 or so with the hopper on a wooden base. Def think fresh crushed is better. I got pretty good results on this one from using the mini food processor. Slightly misty at bottling time & cleared up 3 days in the bottles. Looks like it'll be amber orange so far. Can't wait to taste it. I figured I'll have to wait till tax time to get the mm2 mill.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

I figured I'll have to wait till tax time to get the mm2 mill.

The Malt Mill is what I have. Run it with my cordless Milwaukee, works like an f'n charm. They're really easy to adjust, take a long time to need adjusting and once I get the 9# hopper that I want, it's be awesome. I'd definitely recommend the upgraded hopper size right away if you can afford it, filling the hopper multiple times is a PITA.

 

[unionrdr]

I keep thinking the reg size hopper holds 7lbs? PM using 5lbs would be ok if that's true. It'll be a while till I can go AG equipment-wise. But this partial mash stuff is lookin damn good so far.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

The one that came with mine is ~3 lbs, probably holds a bit less. But I think mine is not the two, just the original MM. 7#'s is a good size.

 

[unionrdr]

Hold on a tick,I'll go look again to be sure.
*Ok,the barley crusher maltmill holds 7lbs with an optional 15lb hopper. $130 for the crusher with 7lb hopper & wood base to fit a 5G bucket. With 15lb hopper is $150. The MM2 is $118. the 11lb hopper for it is $43. The rollers on the MM2 are SS. the barley crusher's are cold rolled steel.

 

[unionrdr]

Well,after 2 weeks & one day at room temp & 3 days fridge time,I had to try two bottles. Out of money & beer anyway. Carbonation is low,but consistent. Good head,decent lacing. Hop & malt aroma like a commercial ale. Balanced & pleasant. Quite clear as well. Flavor is def good,& compares well to a commercial pale ale. Color is amber orange,but a bit lighter copared to my extract APA/IPA color. Pretty close though.
The overall experience is def right up there with commercial pale ale freshness & balance. Def a kit worth brewing.

 

[unionrdr]

I finally got some batteries for the digicam & took a pic of this ale in my new Thirsty Dog brewery glass;
http://
Beer turned out really clear with good hop flavor & bittering. Malt flavor's a little light,but present. nice head & mouthfeel from the .5lb of carapils in the mash. Overall a well balanced pale ale. Good kit from midwest for $25!

 

[ChopperBri]

I’m kinda new to brewing. I’ve done about 6 batches (2 all grain). Can someone explain to me (very slowly) what the difference is between a partial mash and steeping grains in a grain bag for an hour? I’ve done a brew where I used about 11lbs of oats and dark malts + a lot of DME/LME. It all seems the same to me. Maybe I’m just not into the efficiency aspect. Thanks.

 

[libeerty]

The difference is that with partial mash you are creating fermentables. When you steep, it is just for mouthfeel, flavor, and aroma. You may have done a partial mash and not known it. Usually you mash at a lower temperature than you steep, too.

 

[zeg]

As libeerty said, the difference is *creating* fermentables, i.e., converting starches into sugars by pulling starches (from grains/malts) and enzymes (from lighter malts) into solution and holding them at a temperature where the enzymes are active. The enzymes facilitate the break-down of complex, unfermentable starches into simpler fermentable sugars (as well as some larger unfermentable sugars).

I would describe a steep slightly differently. A steep is simply extracting stuff from the grains/malts. No significant conversion takes place. It may extract fermentable sugars, but only those that were already present.

They're not exactly *different*, in that they overlap. A mash is a stringently controlled steep, usually lasting longer than a non-mash steep since it takes longer to convert the starches than simply to extract them.

If we're talking about a 5 gallon batch, an 11 pound steep is huge, but if it's just oats and dark malts it is not a mash because neither of those contain any significant enzymes. Basically, you must have some base malts to mash---plain "2-row," pale malt, pilsner, vienna, or munich are the usual options, because they all provide enough enzymes to convert themselves plus some. In crystal or dark malts, the enzymes have all been denatured by the roasting/toasting process (in crystal, after they've already converted the fermentables in an in-grain stewing step).

 

[sok454]

Sowhattemp do u mash at?

 

[unionrdr]

Mash temps are usually 150-160F for 1 hour. Typically 153-155F.

 

[RIC0]

Also you normally get about 1 lb or or so of grains to steep and if your doing a partial mash you'll get 4+ lbs of grains to actually mash.

1 Pot will work with extracts kits were you steep grains, but with partial mashing your gonna need 2 pots.

 

[unionrdr]

I do biab for PM in my BK with a smaller 3 gallon kettle to heat sparge water. Works for me.

 

[petey_c]

I usually wind up using three pots doin' (AHS) PMs. One steep/boil pot (2 gals, 160°F, 45 min.), one sparge/soak pot (2-4 qts., 170°F, 20 min) and a third to mix the L/DME (1 gal.). There's really no scientific/experience reason for this. I've heard that using DME vice LME will give you a beer that's closer to the intended color. I want to make sure that all the DME gets dissolved and not form a carmelized crust at the bottom of my pot.
unionrdr, Are you now a convert to PM/BIAB?

 

[BridgewaterBrewer]

I don't understand the AHS PM instructions. Shouldn't the mash use the smaller volume of water and the sparge step use the larger volume?

 

[Beergazzi]

OK, read this, now I need to ask a question for my own sanity...

- I am making a Stout kit, but planned on adding some oats / 6 row (1lb each) to convert it more to an oatmeal stout.
- I planned on mashing this along with my steeping grains at 155ish.
- (Now the question) - Should I mash the oats and 6 row in my mashing pot, and steep my grains seperately in my boil pot? As said, since I was going to elevate my extract git to a PM kit, I thought I would just put it all into the pool together for a bigger mash...now Im thinking I should steep the specialties at a higher temp by themselves.?