First Brew, possible stuck fermentation?

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Brewsephus

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Hi folks,

I am new to brewing. I'm about 8 days into my first beer and I think I have a major problem, let me run you through it. My wife got me a bucket brew kit for Christmas and an ingredients pack (Brewers Best) for a Grolsch style beer. I followed the directions to a T. When it came time to transfer from brew pot to fermenter, after chilling the wort, there was nothing about aeration mentioned. Being the good doobie I am, I made sure not to disturb the siphoned beer. It has literally not been aerated at all. I watched the fermentation begin within the first 24-36 hours. It was lovely and aggressive, I was so excited to enjoy my own beer for the first time! At approx. 72 hours the fermentation ceased completely and the airlock hasn't bubbled since. Thinking something was wrong I found HomeBrewTalk.com and learned about the importance of aerating your beer before pitching yeast.

My question is, to save my beer, can I pitch another batch of yeast and restart the fermentation? Should I rack to a secondary and try to repitch, or repitch in the primary fermenter? I took a gravity reading today: my OG was 1.042 and my current gravity is 1.022. It has fermented for 8 days at around 68 degrees, undisturbed.

Please help!
 
try gently rousing the yeast by gently turning the bucket side to side and warming it up a couple (just a couple) degrees. rouse it each day for a couple days and take another reading. sometimes that helps drop those last few gravity points.

FWIW, sometimes malt extract beers peeter out around 1.020 or so, so if thats the case, it may be close to done. still try rousing and warming because a lot of times that does the trick.

btw, welcome to HBT! and the greatest hobby out there.:mug:
 
Nordeast, thanks for the advice! I roused the beer and put it in a warmer room of the house. I'll keep it up for a couple days and check the gravity again.

Thanks for the help!
 
It's also possible it just wasn't done yet,not in 8 days typically. Just because the airlock stops bubbling doesn't mean it's done. It just shows that initial,vigorous fermentation is done. It'll slowly ferment down to FG from there in 3 weeks or so on average. 64 was a good ale temp too. But after initial fermentation,some do raise the temp a little to help it finish up.
 
It's also possible it just wasn't done yet,not in 8 days typically. Just because the airlock stops bubbling doesn't mean it's done. It just shows that initial,vigorous fermentation is done. It'll slowly ferment down to FG from there in 3 weeks or so on average. 64 was a good ale temp too. But after initial fermentation,some do raise the temp a little to help it finish up.

:ban: give that man a beer
 
Man,somebody must've taken you seriously,cause I found a lone can of beer in the fridge. Plus a few shots of vodka to go with it. Thank you friend! :mug::drunk:
 
That rocked,man! I scanned the fridge last evening to see how many beers we had ready to go for last night's drinkfest. Nada left. But when he said that...presto! in typical I'll be damned fashion,there it was!
But to the op,patience is golden as a brewer. Just gotta get used to slowin things down. Yeasties are like that.
 
I think it's always good to aerate,regardless of dry or liquid. They're the same at the point they start the reproduction phase. That's when they need o2 to get started well.
 
I think it's always good to aerate,regardless of dry or liquid. They're the same at the point they start the reproduction phase. That's when they need o2 to get started well.

Very true I always do. But if he was using a dry yeast that is not where his issue with attenuation came from.
 
Yeah,lack of aeration would be a small problem. but no less a problem just because he pitched dry yeast. I never really believed that one. The yeast doesn't know what it is,just that it likes eating sugar in the right numbers at the right temp.
 
Dry yeast has everything it needs built in well that is how I am understanding it. Would be nice for more input on this one. I always aerate so I cant say for sure either way.
 
Dry yeast has everything it needs built in well that is how I am understanding it. Would be nice for more input on this one. I always aerate so I cant say for sure either way.

i'm with you, i've heard all that stuff about not needing to aerate with dry, but i still aerate the $h*t out of my wort whether pitching a pack of dry, or a liquid starter. i'm sure we'll hear otherwise soon, last time i posted about aerating with dry, i got a few folks quoting me saying how wrong i was. needless to say, i still aerate when pitching dry.
 
Dry yeast is packed with nutrients or something like that. But they work better re-hydrated. And I aerate way more now than I originally did. Much more consistent results. Not to mention a lot more vigorous initial fermentation. So I'd say that's important to making sure they have everything they need to finish the job. It's these kind of conversations that cause authors to change there books. New,clearer thoughts & ideas...:rockin:
 
Now if we are talking a liquid yeast you had better make a starter if the og is over 1.06 (that is a number directley from white labs who am I to question) and areate the hell out of it. The advantages of dry yeast is just pitch and go. My pack of us05 for pitching says " Sprinkle into wort". I am more likley to follow the instructions of the yeast manufactures that have spent millions on their products and procedures then anybody on a forum.
 
The yeast in question was Danstar Nottingham ale yeast. I followed the directions (stir into 100ml of 90 degree water, etc). I am planning to keep it in the primary until day 14, then depending on the gravity rack to a secondary, or bottle half and dump the rest. If I do rack to a secondary how long should I leave it to ferment? I know longer is always better, but if this batch can't be revived I don't want to waste space in my carboy.
 
The main advantage of dry yeast is sheer numbers of cells over liquid yeast. Especially the packets of 11g to 15 g. But packets like cooper's & Munton's are 7g & 5g. So re-hydrating is def a plus there. The larger packets don't really neeed re-hydrating with all the cells in a packet. But I bet it would finish faster.
That said,it still needs o2 to keep all those cells happily fermenting away.
 
unionrdr said:
Man,somebody must've taken you seriously,cause I found a lone can of beer in the fridge. Plus a few shots of vodka to go with it. Thank you friend! :mug::drunk:

What can I say? Beer hears all!
 
I guess it does,since it def wasn't there the evening before. Sure came in handy though,seeing as how the next bunch of bottles I put in the fridge last Saturday morning won't be barely ready till Friday.
And I wish I'd have remembered that number of cells thing for dry earlier,slipped my mind. Darn brain farts.
Long story short,it's a good habit to re-hydrate dry yeast for shorter lag times. Aerate to make initial fermentation more vigorous. Thus a better chance at getting a good FG. It works well for me,no off flavors,& it clears well without any additives.
I'd like to know what book or podcast would make such a foolish claime that no aeration is needed just because one is using dry yeast. I rather think someone on here is either proceeding from a false assumption,or mis-interpreting information at some source.
 
Hey guys thought i would jump in to ask a question! Since this is about aeration(sP) What is the the best way to do this. I am very new i only have one batch done not sure if i was told right. I saw to just dump from the brew kettle into the fermination bucket. I feel like a cave man with the system I start with compared to others here but thought what would you guys say?


Sorry for jumping into your question lol
 
The yeast in question was Danstar Nottingham ale yeast. I followed the directions (stir into 100ml of 90 degree water, etc). I am planning to keep it in the primary until day 14, then depending on the gravity rack to a secondary, or bottle half and dump the rest. If I do rack to a secondary how long should I leave it to ferment? I know longer is always better, but if this batch can't be revived I don't want to waste space in my carboy.

First off, the bolded part - why oh why are you planning to dump half of your hard earned beer??? If you're bottling it, bottle it all! :tank:

On the rest of the thread, there's a strong sentiment on this board that you will benefit greatly from leaving you beer in the primary as long as you're willing - many folks (myself included) leave their beers in the primary for 3-4 weeks at a minimum, then either bottle or keg at that point. (Note, no secondary included in this process!)

One interesting, and very applicable, bit of experience I had: I brewed an American Amber last summer. I gave it 3 weeks then checked its gravity, and I was convinced I had a stuck fermentation, since it was right around 1.020. Had a bunch of folks here tell me that 1.020 was common for an extract, but I didn't buy that notion, so I left it another week. Sure enough, a week later, it had hit the kit's target FG exactly, and stayed there. Sometimes, they just take a little longer to get where they're going than others...

As to the 1.020 thing - I've never had an extract brew truly finish up there. That said, many more experienced brewers than me have said that it's at least not uncommon for them to finish up there - and some of those folks are folks I've learned to trust highly. It's _possible_ that your beer has fermented as far as it's going to go, but (especially at 8 days in the primary) I think it's not likely.
 
First off, the bolded part - why oh why are you planning to dump half of your hard earned beer??? If you're bottling it, bottle it all! :tank:

On the rest of the thread, there's a strong sentiment on this board that you will benefit greatly from leaving you beer in the primary as long as you're willing - many folks (myself included) leave their beers in the primary for 3-4 weeks at a minimum, then either bottle or keg at that point. (Note, no secondary included in this process!)

One interesting, and very applicable, bit of experience I had: I brewed an American Amber last summer. I gave it 3 weeks then checked its gravity, and I was convinced I had a stuck fermentation, since it was right around 1.020. Had a bunch of folks here tell me that 1.020 was common for an extract, but I didn't buy that notion, so I left it another week. Sure enough, a week later, it had hit the kit's target FG exactly, and stayed there. Sometimes, they just take a little longer to get where they're going than others...

As to the 1.020 thing - I've never had an extract brew truly finish up there. That said, many more experienced brewers than me have said that it's at least not uncommon for them to finish up there - and some of those folks are folks I've learned to trust highly. It's _possible_ that your beer has fermented as far as it's going to go, but (especially at 8 days in the primary) I think it's not likely.
Agreed RDWHAHB, and step away from the fermenter.
 
Thanks for all the help guys! I checked the gravity today and after jostling the fermenter gently yesterday, my gravity now reads 1.008. We're in the clear. Moved it to a warmer location and the temp is holding at 67 degrees. Ill bottle in 5 days, per the recipe's instructions. Hope she comes out sexy and smooth.

Now whats the next beer? I've caught the bug.
 
Thanks for all the help guys! I checked the gravity today and after jostling the fermenter gently yesterday, my gravity now reads 1.008. We're in the clear. Moved it to a warmer location and the temp is holding at 67 degrees. Ill bottle in 5 days, per the recipe's instructions. Hope she comes out sexy and smooth.

Now whats the next beer? I've caught the bug.

russian imperial stout! let it age for some awesome flavors.
 
I was able to taste the fruit of my labor yesterday and I must say I am very pleased. There is a slight off flavor (i think i steeped my grains too hot, meh), but my general impression is it turned out to be very drinkable. My wife even likes it! Thanks for all those who helped me. We ended up at 4.5% abv, which is the target abv for the style.

Thanks for making a newbie feel welcome!
 

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