First BIAB - Hefeweizen

[jjinsa]

Hi all

Tomorrow I'll be doing my first all grain which will be BIAB and will be a Hefeweizen.

I want to run my recipe past everyone. Calculated on Beersmith

12L batch

2kg German wheat malt
1kg German Pilsner malt
Mash @ 64.5C in 16.21L for 90min
Mashout (7 min rise to 75.6C) and leave for 10min

Boil 60min (14.3L)
10g tettnager - 60min
5g tettnager - 10min
Half a whirlfloc tab - 15min

Fermentis WB-06 (11g pack)

Single stage fermentation: 10-14 days (18-21C) (12.48L)
Bottle with 80.2g corn sugar (2.5vols)
Age for 30 days

Estimates are
OG - 1.056
SG - 1.014
ABV - 5.49%
IBU's - 10.3
EBC - 7.8

Any comments, suggestions?
I have already bought the ingredients so I cannot change them
Do I do a yeast starter or not? Do I use the whole package of yeast (11g)?
I like a hefe with obvious banana/clove aroma.
I'm all for learning... So comment away

Thank you

 

[m00ps]

Looks good. More % wheat than ive ever seen but with BIAB you cna get away with it.

Use the whole packet. might be overpitching a bit, but no reason in wasting the rest of the yeast.

What temp you fermenting at? closer to 60 will be more clove closer to 70 more banana.

 

[jjinsa]

Closer to 70 if that will give more banana. Will go for 20-21C then. Should I do a starter or not?

 

[brokebucket]

no starter necessary for dry yeast. Just pitch an appropriate amount. Starters are more for liquid yeast use.

 

[jjinsa]

So is the 11g dry okay for my 12L batch?

 

[m00ps]

no those packets are for 5gal, and even then its usually an underpitch. I would think youd need 3 of them or start getting into starters. Its worth it

edit: crap through you said 12g then realized. Youll be fine. Ignore me

 

[jjinsa]

I'm making 12 liters, that's about 3 gal. So my question is do I pitch the 11g pack dry, or do I use less and make a starter?

 

[m00ps]

its best to rehydrate dry yeast in warm water (100ml maybe for 1 packet). No real sense in doing a starter since it kinda goes against the point of dry yeast which is their convenience

So rehydrate it a bit before pitching in sanitized water and toss that in (cover with foil while waiting)

 

[TexasWine]

Might consider a 90 minute boil because of the pilsner. And I'd recommend checking your gravity after 30 minutes. If it's at your predicted pre boil gravity, then stop the mash and proceed to the boil!

 

[wilserbrewer]

1 pack, 11g of dry yeast is plenty for 3 gallons. Best practice to rehydrate, but some report fine results from just sprinkling the dry yeast on the wort surface.

It is not recommended to make starters w dry yeast, some thing about how they are dried and packaged with adequate nutrients I don't recall.

My only advice is to be certain you get a good crush on the wheat, as wheat is a smaller tougher kernel than barley, and often people report lower efficiency using wheat for perhaps this reason.

Check gravity preboil, if low extend the boil and reduce batch size to hit near target gravity.

 

[jjinsa]

Might consider a 90 minute boil because of the pilsner. And I'd recommend checking your gravity after 30 minutes. If it's at your predicted pre boil gravity, then stop the mash and proceed to the boil!

Why a 90 min boil because of pilsener?

Do you think I might hit pre boil gravity too easily, is that why you suggest checking gravity during mash? Now the post after you suggests the opposite? I'm confused now? Haha

 

[jjinsa]

Might consider a 90 minute boil because of the pilsner. And I'd recommend checking your gravity after 30 minutes. If it's at your predicted pre boil gravity, then stop the mash and proceed to the boil!

Why a 90 min boil because of pilsener?

Do you think I might hit pre boil gravity too easily, is that why you suggest checking gravity during mash? the post after you, suggests the opposite? I'm confused now? Haha

 

[TexasWine]

Why a 90 min boil because of pilsener?

Do you think I might hit pre boil gravity too easily, is that why you suggest checking gravity during mash? the post after you, suggests the opposite? I'm confused now? Haha

Good rule of thumb for pils is to boil for 90 to drive off all the DMS.

Wilserbrewer is suggesting the same thing as I am, checking your pre boil gravity. I'm just saying check it as the mash progresses. You probably have no need to mash for 90 minutes, that is if you get a good crush. Even with a half way decent crush you shouldn't need mash for more than 60 minutes. No sense wasting time!

 

[jjinsa]

Thank you. TexasWine, the Reason I was confused is you said I might be good after just 30min mash and already at pre-boil Gravity already and wilserbrewer is suggesting I may not be at my preboil Gravity after the mash, so I should boil longer and reduce the volume to make sure I hit the gravity. That's why it confused me (remember I am relatively new). So what I take from it is to check my gravity etc to make sure I am hitting the correct values and adjust accordingly.

What is the DMS? (That you are trying to drive off, just trying to learn)

 

[castillo556]

Eh, I've read in many places that with modern malting, a 90 min boil isn't really necessary with pilsner anymore.


I don't do 90 min boils and I have never had a problem with DMS

 

[jjinsa]

Don't worry, I have looked up DMS so I know what that is now and understand why you say 90m boil.

 

[jjinsa]

Does mash out mean I take the grain bag out and then do whatever recipe says? As below...

"Mash @ 64.5C in 16.21L for 90min

Mashout (7 min rise to 75.6C) and leave for 10min"

So take the bag out, bring the temp up and leave for 10min?

 

[Gnomebrewer]

Mashout means raising the temperature with the grain in to about 76C before sparging (if you are sparging). It helps with sparging and stops any further starch to sugar conversion (prevents thinning out the beer) but is not compulsory.

I'd recommend some acid malt (1 to 2%) in the mash (or some other acid). There is nothing dark in there to help lower the pH of the mash.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

Or an acid rest.....

 

[jjinsa]

I won't have acid malt. Any other suggestions?

 

[jjinsa]

So I raise it to 76, then leave it for 10 minutes before taking the bag out and draining? Covered or uncovered ?

 

[jjinsa]

http://www.durban.gov.za/City_Servi...r Quality/DurbanHeights3_April_ June_2015.pdf

That is the tap water report for my area. Any help with that?

 

[cannman]

What sanitizer do you plan to use? (oh, and good luck!)

 

[jjinsa]

Iodophor

 

[cannman]

Iodophor

I love this product on glass. Just be aware that you'll colorize anything plastic with a lovely orange (does not harm performance and is 100% okay). Drain well, as I hear that at some higher concentrations, you might impart some flavors. It's a good thing that is a low foam product.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

http://www.durban.gov.za/City_Servi...r Quality/DurbanHeights3_April_ June_2015.pdf

That is the tap water report for my area. Any help with that?

I'm not very good at reading water reports (I use rainwater so I've never had to learn), but I think that looks quite soft and lacking in minerals (a good thing). You probably should add some Calcium chloride (maybe 3g). But don't worry if you don't have it.

For the acidity, you could use some diluted phosphoric acid if you have it, but I don't know how much you should use. I think the downside to a high mash pH is reduced efficiency, so it's not a major issue. BTH, my favourite hef recipe matches your grains (except for adding some acid malt) - 2/3 wheat, 1/3 pils. If you get the opportunity to use WY3068 though, you'll notice a big difference.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

So I raise it to 76, then leave it for 10 minutes before taking the bag out and draining? Covered or uncovered ?

Covered. It's the boil that needs to be uncovered.

 

[jjinsa]

Will that be the Pasteurization or not?

 

[cannman]

Will that be the Pasteurization or not?

Will not mater at this point as the boil to come will kill just about everything.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

Will that be the Pasteurization or not?

The temperature for mashout isn't related to Pasteurising, it's designed to be above the temperature that saccharification enzymes work at (i.e. no more conversion) but below the temperature where the pH is likely to increase to a point that you'd get astringency from husks. It is coincidence that the temperatures for the two are similar. As canman said, the boil kills everything.