Fermentation chamber got too cold and stalled Wyeast 1968 batch

[exploding_monkeyface]

I brewed an English mild last week using Wyeast 1968 and put it into my fermentation chamber in the garage. Everything started off fine, then the temperatures here in Texas dropped like a rock and my freezer fermentation temp dropped to 52 while I was out of town on business. I've since moved the carboys (10 gallon batch) into the house where temps are around 70. I plan to let it warm up over the next day and swirl the carboys to see if the yeast kicks back in. My question is regarding oxidation. When I moved the carboys I had to remove the blowoff tubes from the jug I use to catch blowoff. Am I ok to really swirl the beer vigorously to get the yeast back into suspension? I'm worried I let some oxygen in when I broke the liquid seal on the blowoff tubes and pulled the carboy cap off to test gravity. Am I being too paranoid or should I figure out a way to purge the headspace with my CO2 manifold or just go ahead and pitch more yeast?

The target FG is 1.007 and I measured 1.020 today. I started at 1.032, so I've got a way to go.


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[MindenMan]

ESB 1968, is a really forgiving yeast strain. CO2 is heavier than air, so unless you blew into the blow offs, I wouldn't worry. Besides, when fermentation restarts the CO2 being generated will keep your wort safe.
Oh, right, stop being paranoid, your beer will forgive you. I have accidentally cold crashed a batch or two of 1968 and the wort warmed back up, the yeast got busy again. At 1.020, there won't be a lot of activity, so don't freak out. I have an Amber ESB conditioning/cleaning up in my living room. I brewed it on 2-12-2014, and held it at 64* F for two weeks, warmed it up during last week. As far as swirling goes, I always swirl my fermenters 3 or 4 times a week. I know from experience (the hard way) that there is generally a little CO2 trapped in the trub after fermentation has completed. I continue to swirl my fermenters until no more bubbles are released, and then cold crash for a minimum of 6 days at 34* F. My beers are clear and tasty, and for that I am willing to wait an "extra" week or 2. Right now my pipeline could use a couple of quickey beers so I won't be "chomping at the bit"to drink what I "just bottled" too soon. Sorry for the long post, I forgot to take my ADHD medication this afternoon. The truth is, I am very passionate about this hobby of ours, and hope maybe I will say something that may help someone else sometime in the future, like so many things that were said before I brewed decent beer that really helped me.

 

[BigFloyd]

Since this is WY1968ESB, I'm going to suggest that you not swirl in an attempt to rouse it.

Here's why - once that strain drops out hard (which it surely did prematurely at 52*F) it forms the most firm (almost rubbery) yeast cake you've ever seen. You can swirl until you're blue in the face and still not get it to break apart or come off the bottom.

The way you get a 1968ESB (or WLP002) cake roused and hopefully working again is to, after warming to 70*F for a whole day, take a sanitized plastic or metal spoon and very gently (to avoid splashing) break the cake into pieces and work it up off the bottom. After that, let it be for at least a week before taking a hydro reading.

It's nice to have one of these plugged into the warming outlet of your STC-1000 just in case we get one of our notorious Texas cold snaps. I'm using mine right now. http://brewstands.com/fermentation-heater.html

 

[MindenMan]

I stand corrected then. I withdraw my suggestion to swirl. Yeah, cold crash compaction of the yeast cake may be an issue mid ferment.
I will agree with the STC-1000 suggestion, I use one also. I have a 200 watt Lasko mini heater to use with mine.

 

[Beezer94]

My last batch used 1968 and I have to agree with BigFloyd; that particular yeast compacts so fast and so hard that swirling does very little. When I cleaned the fermenting bucket, my usual process of adding a gallon of water and swirling did nothing but lightly color the water. I had to physically move the cake around directly to get it out.

 

[exploding_monkeyface]

Great! I'm stopping by the hardware store to build the paint can heater on the way home. My STC-1000 will be here Friday, I'm currently using a Johnson controller that won't go dual stage. Thanks for the help guys!!!