False Bottom question for HERMS build

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DunFary

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Hi everyone, long time reader finally upgrading my coolers to a 3 vessel e-HERMS build. I have most of my equipment ready but I am caught up in buying the false bottom for my HLT. For my kettles i'm going with the 62 quart bayou classics (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXD94A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20). For my false bottom I am currently looking at either:

1) PICO false bottom from adventures in homebrewing (http://www.homebrewing.org/Stainless-Steel-PICO-style-keg-kettle-false-bottom-wsupports_p_1010.html) It appears to be sturdy to me and other people have stated that it fits the bayou kettle very well. Only concern is it has a 2- 2 1/2 gallon deadspace. I've been trying to research if deadspace is even a large factor with continous recirculation mashing but cant seem to find a good consensus. Another concern is that the struts will create other "dead spaces" or impede flow.

2) Standard hinged false bottom such as this one (http://stainlessbrewing.3dcartstores.com/15-SS-Hinged-False-Bottom_p_163.html) Concerns are that they are trully made for kegs. I worry about channeling at the edges of the kettle.

So in short, does anyone have any advice for a good false bottom to be used in the 62 quart bayou kettles and does deadspace matter with HERMS setups? Thanks!
 
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It will "impede" flow, in a sense, but it will not stop it.
You will be "throttling" your recirculation anyway, won't you?
I am not familiar with a "HERMS" setup, other than knowing I probably don't want to screw with it, but once you establish your grain bed / filter, won't it be covered basically, with your liquid?
Throttle it to keep the liquid level that you wish, and if it's "covered" so to speak, I don't think channeling will be a concern, although I could be mistaken.
I copied this type of false bottom / support assembly, for a keg mash tun, albeit, for a different mash.

The deadspace:Make your pickup tube go to the bottom of the deadspace, and you'll wind up with a cup or two left in there.

I'll see if I can locate the pics of the one I made, and post it up.
If your pickup tube does not enter through the middle of the false bottom, ( re: the pickup tube / nipple is alreadyin the "support" area"), notch the supports for your tube.



Edit: Pics.


Support.



False bottom.



Die for forming false bottom.
 
I think I read something wrong. Are you putting the false bottom in your HLT? Or in your mash tun?

Either way, the false bottom doesn't make a difference to the HERMS system. *assuming you do as was previously suggested and get a dip tube that draws from below the false bottom. But, considering the false bottom would be pretty useless unless you did that we can probably just not talk about that.

If there's impediment from anything it's the grist considering if you draw wort too fast through it you'll compact the grain bed. So the point is moot. RDWHAHB.

^^nice false bottom by the way
 
Oops I miss-typed, meant my mash tun not HLT. Also yes i'll definetly be using a dip tube and throttling my output so I have a good few inches above my grain bed. I guess my real question is if having the 2 - 2 1/2 gallons of liquid not in contact with the grain going to affect my efficiency. But since i'm recirculating my mash i doubt it would matter? Oh well, i'm sure it will turn out haha, thanks everyone!
 
Your wort will be in constant contact with the grain, even during recirc.
 
I think the Pico style one should work, the main issue is that you don't want the false bottom to collapse. Even with dialing back the throttle on the pump, it still has strong suction. And you don't want to dial back to too slow of a speed or you can't pump the liquid through the coil.
What I do is I will mash in wait about 5 minutes, than vorlauf to settle the grain bed. After I vorlauf I start my recirculation. It will take you a brew or two to get everything right where you want it.
 
Rice hulls. If you're running HERMS rice hulls cure most sins.
 

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