Failing plastic ball lock connectors - anyone use stainless?

[pvpeacock]

I have not had any problems with them other than the initial rust on the ball bearings. I do notice, however, that the ring on the liquid disconnects can get stuck when liquid freezes in them. I had this problem more with water when I was using one of my kegs for soda water. If I couldn't get the ring to lift up so I could remove the connector, I would just warm it up and it would fee up. It also happens with beer sometimes, but not as much. Overall, I'm glad I switched.

 

[sgreene820]

Found this thread after one of my plastic liquid connectors failed, new, only 4 kegs through it. 5 gallons of beer in my basement carpeting. Is stainless the answer?

 

[day_trippr]

I run 8 beer and 18 gas QDs - all CMBecker - that have never failed.
Given the lack of an actual problem I don't think the price premium for SS disconnects is an answer...

Cheers!

 

[sgreene820]

I think it is a defective poppet on a new corny keg. Chinese manufacture, maybe? Bought a replacement liquid out connector, no joy. Emergency transfer of the remaining beer to a remanufactured keg seems to solve the leak issue.

 

[IslandLizard]

I think it is a defective poppet on a new corny keg. Chinese manufacture, maybe? Bought a replacement liquid out connector, no joy. Emergency transfer of the remaining beer to a remanufactured keg seems to solve the leak issue.

There could be an issue with the posts and/or the outer o-ring. I doubt it's the poppets. The poppets are pressed down by the poppet in the QD, they don't form a seal at that point. The outer o-ring on top of the post forms the seal with the QD.

But I've heard some of the poppets on those Chinese kegs are hard to press down, spring being too long or so.

Make sure your QDs are marked with "CMB" embossed along the top side. They also have something stamped into the side: "Made in Germany," or so.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I once mis-assembled a Firestone C5 gas post after cleaning which caused the poppet to totally wedge closed.

Found it immediately as I store empties filled to overflowing with a mild iodophor solution - and "burp" the two poppets to fill the dip tubes.
Beer poppet was fine, gas poppet refused to budge.
Had to remove the post and be more careful putting it back on but it worked perfectly since...

Cheers!

 

[pvpeacock]

Update after 3 1/2 years. The ball bearings on all of my liquid stainless ball lock disconnects have rusted to the point that I have gone back to plastic. I bought replacement ball bearings, but due to the rust, some of the old bearings won't come out at all and those that will have left enough corrosion to prevent the new bearings from fitting. What sounded like a good idea and a lifetime piece of equipment was not. I've gone back to cheap, reliable and easily replaceable plastic ball lock disconnects. Bummer.

 

[BobBailey]

8 years with the original plastic QDs. All original, just disassemble, clean and reassemble every few months. Don't know the brand. They came with a 2 faucet tower setup I got from the Keg Cowboy when he was still in business.

 

[elprofemaycol]

What brand of plastic qd’s are better? I see so many different ones to choose from, Onebom, Petra, CM Becker, JanSamn, etc. etc.

Will mostly be using Ball Lock MFL, I love the idea of not having to hassle with connecting and disconnecting.

Also, backflow, any advice as I see that to potentially be an issue. Brands? Best types? Fit?

Sorry to be such a Noob, just would rather buy and obtain the better, more convenient tools and fittings for the trade rather than having headaches.
Much appreciate the advice and help, Thank You in advance.

 

[Robert65]

What brand of plastic qd’s are better? I see so many different ones to choose from, Onebom, Petra, CM Becker, JanSamn, etc. etc.

CMBecker is the original manufacturer and worth the slightly higher price. All others are knockoffs of varying quality.

 

[IslandLizard]

What brand of plastic qd’s are better? I see so many different ones to choose from, Onebom, Petra, CM Becker, JanSamn, etc. etc.

I've been making sure to only buy CMB (CM Becker) as they have been working perfectly for years, with no issues. Never seen or used any of the other brands you mentioned.

I've had one (black) liquid QD that was unbranded. It disintegrated when forcibly removing it after having pushed it onto the wrong post, the gas one. The collar separated from the rest of the QD body, spring came out, etc. I can't really blame the QD for that. It took a lot of effort to get it off.

 

[Bobby_M]

I only sell CMbecker now due to QC issues with other copies. There is still an occasional leaky poppet so if you leave your gas lines pressurized without connecting to a keg, you may want to dunk them in water once in a while to check for bubbles at the poppet. I'm converting over to stainless now that procured a version with no plastic at all. The price is also better but hold on to your wallet at 4x the price of plastic. Whichever way you go, start with MFL ported disconnects so you'll never have to cut and reclamp lines off of a barb.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_ssgas_flare.htm

 

[HopSing]

+1 for CM Becker. Just ensure you're getting the real ones. There are some fakes out there, so it matters where you purchase them from. I've also found "upgrading" the o-rings on the ball lock posts to the food grade silicon type and using a VERY small amount of keg lube makes a difference. You can find those food grade silicon o rings for ball lock posts at https://www.mcmaster.com/1283N53

~HopSing.

 

[Robert65]

"upgrading" the o-rings on the ball lock posts to the food grade silicon type

I wouldn't have any silicone anywhere in my system, it's the most oxygen permeable material you can get. The preferred material for all o-rings is Buna-A, and a little lube can extend their life to near indefinite.

 

[balrog]

Late to party, but totally second the CMB QDs, along with getting replacement orings for posts and inside the QDs themselves "every so often". Maybe not yearly like @k1ngl1ves , but occasionally. See for instance, here.

 

[HopSing]

I wouldn't have any silicone anywhere in my system, it's the most oxygen permeable material you can get. The preferred material for all o-rings is Buna-A, and a little lube can extend their life to near indefinite.

Absolutely correct that silicone is more O2 permeable than the Buna-N. I just started changing out to silicone on the posts because the Buna-N o-rings started to stick and needed to be replaced anyway, so I figured I would try silicone. It's much easier to get the disconnects on and off with the lubed silicone vs the lubed Buna-N even when new.

From what I read, the amount of O2 that could get through the silicone was fairly small in ppb based on the size of the o-ring, so I did not think it would be problem unless the kegs were connected for long periods of time - more than several months, which is pretty rare for me. Is that not the case?

Anyone try silicone for o-ring posts and go back to Buna-N due to finding their beers became oxygenated over relatively short periods of time?

I appreciate the input!

~HopSing.

 

[Robert65]

I've never had such problems with buna-a. Last just about forever and if they don't they're dirt cheap.

 

[gnef]

I only sell CMbecker now due to QC issues with other copies. There is still an occasional leaky poppet so if you leave your gas lines pressurized without connecting to a keg, you may want to dunk them in water once in a while to check for bubbles at the poppet. I'm converting over to stainless now that procured a version with no plastic at all. The price is also better but hold on to your wallet at 4x the price of plastic. Whichever way you go, start with MFL ported disconnects so you'll never have to cut and reclamp lines off of a barb.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_ssgas_flare.htm

Do you also have a source for pin lock stainless disconnects?

 

[Robert65]

Do you also have a source for pin lock stainless disconnects?

Probably sold alongside pearl handled, silk buggy whips.

 

[gnef]

Probably sold alongside pearl handled, silk buggy whips.

I actually have a single stainless MFL pinlock, and wish I had bought more at the time. I also have some stainless pin locks that came with a coke jockey box from a long time ago, and can still find that style at Chi Company, but it isn't the regular 1/4" MFL.

This is one of the reasons why I haven't changed over to stainless, I would only be able to change out the ball lock, and not my pin lock. It would also be exceptionally expensive, so it would have to be done in stages, so the source would have to be consistent with both styles.

 

[Robert65]

I actually have a single stainless MFL pinlock, and wish I had bought more at the time. I also have some stainless pin locks that came with a coke jockey box from a long time ago, and can still find that style at Chi Company, but it isn't the regular 1/4" MFL.

This is one of the reasons why I haven't changed over to stainless, I would only be able to change out the ball lock, and not my pin lock. It would also be exceptionally expensive, so it would have to be done in stages, so the source would have to be consistent with both styles.

You can convert, put ball lock posts on the old pin lock kegs. You have to identify the thread, all the manufacturers and models varied. Somewhere I've seen a retailer of kegs and parts (Keg Connection? ) has a chart to identify them all. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.


Keg Outlet it was. Anyway here ya go. HTH.

https://www.kegoutlet.com/how-can-i-tell-what-type-of-posts-will-fit-on-my-corny-keg.html

 

[gnef]

You can convert, put ball lock posts on the old pin lock kegs. You have to identify the thread, all the manufacturers and models varied. Somewhere I've seen a retailer of kegs and parts (Keg Connection? ) has a chart to identify them all. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.


Keg Outlet it was. Anyway here ya go. HTH.

https://www.kegoutlet.com/how-can-i-tell-what-type-of-posts-will-fit-on-my-corny-keg.html

I've thought of that as well, but considering I have a total of 90 kegs, and roughly 60 are pin locks, the cost would be astronomical compared to the benefit it would provide.

 

[Robert65]

I've thought of that as well, but considering I have a total of 90 kegs, and roughly 60 are pin locks, the cost would be astronomical compared to the benefit it would provide.

Oh... I see the problem. Well, maybe best you don't have to buy that much stainless bling anyway then! CMB plastic really has no downside.

(That said, I just ordered one of @Bobby_M's SS gas QDs to check it out. And I use the Kegland SS FC on the beer side. Bobby needs to make a superior version of that. Bet he could do it better.)

 

[gnef]

Oh... I see the problem. Well, maybe best you don't have to buy that much stainless bling anyway then! CMB plastic really has no downside.

(That said, I just ordered one of @Bobby_M's SS gas QDs to check it out. And I use the Kegland SS FC on the beer side. Bobby needs to make a superior version of that. Bet he could do it better.)

I appreciate the suggestions! This has been something I've dealt with for a long time now, and it has always been on the back of my mind, so I always try to look for products that could meet my wants (definitely not needs at this point).

Yea, right now my go-to disconnects are all plastic MFL with John Guest PTC fittings on them (most are lead free brass for the gas disconnects, but I started with acetal, and still have a good number with acetal, and only use the acetal for the beer disconnects). Considering how many sets of disconnects I have (probably in the range of 40-50 sets), any transition to stainless would be a long project due to cost/benefit ratio - the plastic works fine, I just like stainless!

 

[Robert65]

I just got my Brew Hardware SS gas QD. Sweet! Maybe overkill, but if you want robust, this'll do ya. Way better quality than the Kegland SS Flow Control liquid disconnect I have. @Bobby_M, make one of those! You're killin' it.

 

[day_trippr]

Woof. As lovely as those look, doing just my keezer with them would run almost $300
Another $200+ to do my three fridges.

Cheers! (I need an anonymous benefactor )

 

[Robert65]

Woof. As lovely as those look, doing just my keezer with them would run almost $300
Another $200+ to do my three fridges.

Cheers! (I need an anonymous benefactor )

Ha! Yeah, well, my janky little keezer isn't in the same universe yours, so it just takes a little loose change to (relatively) bling it out! [emoji6]