Extra tall ball lock posts or connectors?

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Does such a thing exist?

I have a flow control tap connected to a ball lock fitting. It works really well and so I want to keep using it, but I'm forced to have it stick out between the handles, blocking any adjacent keg from being placed. If I could raise everything (the post or the connector) maybe 3/4", I'd be in business, I could swing it over the handles. I'm wondering:

* Does an extra tall post exist?
* Does an extra tall connector exist?
* Could a pin-lock style connector, which always seem very tall, be converted by swapping pieces at the bottom? MFL Pin Lock Beverage Disconnect
* Modify a check-valve type connector intended for gas in to use for liquid out? Check Valved Ball Lock Quick Disconnect (QD) Disconnect Gas In - Flare | MoreBeer
* One of the stainless steel versions (which don't look tall enough, but seem to come in varying shapes)? Sorry! Something went wrong!
 
  • Never seen a taller than stock post
  • Aside from that check-valved ball lock connector, never seen a taller than normal QD (I have seen shorter ones)
  • Don't think you could practically mod a pin lock QD to fit a ball lock post.
  • That check-valved QD has two reviews and both are negative, might not be a great choice to try modding which would be tough to begin with
  • The only SS QDs I've seen (which looked like the linked ones) were lower profile than a stock CMB QD - going the wrong direction for your need.
One thought was to extend the 1/4" MFL connection I assume you're using for your tap to QD connection, and there is a 1/4" MFL to 14" FFL adapter in brass out there.

Otherwise, how about elevating the keg in question by sticking something under it?

Cheers!
 
For modding the QD's, yeah I've never actually taken the spring loaded part off, only the internals. I'd somewhat hope that above that, things might be standardized, but looking at pictures I don't think that's the case. Not sure how I'd swap the parts anyhow. Usually I'm good at taking things apart without breaking them, usually...

I was reading about the threading on the kegs for the posts, wondered if I could screw on a ball lock post. I'm reading about 9/16 and 19/32 threads and such, and not sure it's as easy as it sounds. The idea being to take a ball lock keg and turn it into a pin lock, on the liquid-out side anyhow. Everyone converts the other way. I'm not sure if those "conversion" fittings, which look like normal ball locks, have special threads.

The raising idea would work for one keg, haha, thanks, seems silly I didn't think of it. I can't do both though which is what I'm hoping for. It's a pair of 3 gallon kegs side-by-side in a mini frig. I have some vertical space but like 0 in all other directions.
 
I'm reading about 9/16 and 19/32 threads and such, and not sure it's as easy as it sounds.
It's not. Well, figuring out the thread isn't that hard, but there can be a bit more to getting a different post to work than that. Especially newer posts on older kegs.

I theory, you could extend the post height by putting a female to male coupler (or a male to male on top of a female to female) on the keg, but good luck finding those in 19/32-18 or getting it all to seal.
 
Good luck, but that pin lock post is probably 1/4" shorter than the ball lock post you're replacing. A pin lock QD is about an inch taller than a ball lock QD but sits lower on the post. So you might not gain the 3/4" you're looking for.
 
Just wondering if you've considered drilling shanks in the door for a mini-kegerator, or do you want to keep the mini-fridge intact?
 
Just wondering if you've considered drilling shanks in the door for a mini-kegerator, or do you want to keep the mini-fridge intact?

Good idea, but it's got a glass door and it's just a level of work I'm not up for right now.

I may just have to go back to the EVA Barrier + picnic tap. Not a huge deal but I did sort of like the FC tap stuck to the top. I can still use it but only when I have 1 keg not 2.
 
Good luck, but that pin lock post is probably 1/4" shorter than the ball lock post you're replacing. A pin lock QD is about an inch taller than a ball lock QD but sits lower on the post. So you might not gain the 3/4" you're looking for.

Great point, I didn't really notice. I suppose I'll let the order fly and see if it works. 3/4" is approximate, a little less could still be OK.

I could cut a handle too, they're just rubber, but kind of hoping to find a cleaner solution.
 
Well, ordered from CHI Company, still haven't seen a shipment notification. Going to their site it looks like they're out of business, the page redirects.
 
Weird. Whois says the site is still in Matt's possession and I can't find anything under Matthew Chitiea that suggests anything is out of sorts 🤔
Check again in a couple of days...
 
I’m not sure about the geometry but if the tap doesn’t have to hang over the side of the keg, maybe you could use a corny keg carbonation lid and attach a floating dip tube to the post on the lid. They usually sit up a bit higher than the standard posts.
 

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Weird. Whois says the site is still in Matt's possession and I can't find anything under Matthew Chitiea that suggests anything is out of sorts 🤔
Check again in a couple of days...

It's working again, and after a week and a half I did finally get a shipping notice. Glad to get parts of course but also glad they are still around.
 
I realized that my FC tap has a connection type that is... maybe a shank (left side, below)? Not the flared fitting type (right side). So I need a pin lock adapter that's either got that type built in, but don't seem to exist, or get another part to hang it off a flared pin lock adapter and hope it's not extended so far out it gets weak.

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I'm getting closer to giving up on this idea. I made the flow control Nukatap work on 1 keg, just no room for two. I may have to keep it this way and resign myself to at least one keg having the EVABarrier lines. Maybe put my Pcnic Tap 2.1 on it (but I don't like how it performs nearly as well as the other options regarding beer pouring.



There are duotight flow control QDs, could that work?

You're thinking as in an altogether different approach? or as a way of raising the tap I already have? If it's the latter I'm not following but am definitely curious.
 
You're thinking as in an altogether different approach? or as a way of raising the tap I already have? If it's the latter I'm not following but am definitely curious.
Can you post a pic of what you are working with? Do you have faucets directly on the QD? If not you can maybe fit a Duotight with a 90 on it? Or what about the lines going to the center of the keg not outside?
 
Yes, attached. It's a Nukatap flow control faucet mounted directly to a ball-lock adapter.

Here, it is positioned between the keg handles. This works if I don't have a 2nd keg. If I do have a 2nd keg, the faucet hits it or at best there's no way to get a glass under the tap. If I rotate the keg so the tap points to the "front", then the door doesn't close. You can see the disconnected adapter with the EVABarrier sitting behind it, FYI in case it's confusing what it is doing there.

My thinking, though I have to consider other options, is / was to "lift" everything maybe 3/4" or so, so that it rotate a little closer to the front. Then both kegs can have one of these, and I can put the glass bumped up against the kegs and either tap will flow into that glass. And the frig door will still close. I am certain this will "work" if I can accomplish this raising idea, but it's nowhere near as easy as I had hoped.

IMG_4185.jpg
 
Yes, attached. It's a Nukatap flow control faucet mounted directly to a ball-lock adapter.

Here, it is positioned between the keg handles. This works if I don't have a 2nd keg. If I do have a 2nd keg, the faucet hits it or at best there's no way to get a glass under the tap. If I rotate the keg so the tap points to the "front", then the door doesn't close. You can see the disconnected adapter with the EVABarrier sitting behind it, FYI in case it's confusing what it is doing there.

My thinking, though I have to consider other options, is / was to "lift" everything maybe 3/4" or so, so that it rotate a little closer to the front. Then both kegs can have one of these, and I can put the glass bumped up against the kegs and either tap will flow into that glass. And the frig door will still close. I am certain this will "work" if I can accomplish this raising idea, but it's nowhere near as easy as I had hoped.

View attachment 833745
The easy way is Picnic Tap 2.0 2.1 is All-in-One Super Liquid Disconnect, perfect for keg owners | eBay

It might not be as pretty but it will do what you want
 
He already said he's not happy with the Picnic Tap 2.1. In fact, he was so unhappy with it that he sold me his.;) To me, it's a little bit strange that the Nukatap flow control faucet isn't attached to the QD at a bit more of an upward angle. It's intended to attach directly to the keg so you would think they'd have anticipated this situation. But wishing won't make it so.

What he really needs is a 19/32-18 female to male coupler to extend the height of the post by about 3/4 of an inch. But I'm pretty sure that part is made out of unobtanium.

A straight ball lock QD with a keg post on the other end, if you can imagine what that would look like, could also do the job. But again, I'm talking about a thing that doesn't exist in this universe.
 
Right, no adapters to effectively extend the keg post that I can find. No chance I can think of trying it with say parts from McMaster Carr, especially given the need to keep the out line and it’s o ring held down to stop leaks.

Converting to a tall pin lock may do it, if I ever get the parts. I’ll buy the additional flare to shank adapter if I am optimistic.

I am interested in the idea of something coming out of the keg lid, if this other doesn’t work. Lifting up a keg may do it, have to think more on that.

Could end up just not worth it.

Oh and I got too curious about the picnic tap 2.1 and the gizmo inside, so I actually bought another to give it a 2nd try. In the end I still don’t like it, all variations I try end up with foam. I may still yet try again, I think maybe some beers could yet work… high gravity stouts perhaps - less heady beers to begin with. But I feel I have mostly exhausted the options with it and have given up.

And yes I am stubborn!
 
Not exactly. The OP has a special QD. The previous post uses a normal one which would have the tap tiled up. Honestly you might want to just ask a machine shop to fab something up. If you know the exact thread type I bet they could cut an adapter in 5min.
 
Considering the OP's picture shows a normal "tilted" QD in the background I suspect they either already tried using one or rejected the idea for reason...

Cheers!
 
I thought the OP had what is pictured on the left in post #17, which is a QD that connects directly to a beer shank and looks to me like it's much closer to a right angle than a typical flared QD. The link I posted is for a FFL to beer shank adapter, which seems to be what he was asking for in that post and may or may not add enough height and length to improve the situation.
 
Hah. Actually what Mac mentioned in I guess post 25, which I mentioned that I would need to buy for the pin lock + adapting post… yeah it might very well work on that ball lock post with flare fitting which I already have. The additional angle might do the trick.

Hopefully it isn’t weak. I’ll go ahead and order it and find out if it gives enough tilt to do the job.

I actually do a ton of work with a machine shop for my day job and yes have thought about a custom ball lock post. They’d probably be $100 a pop, easy. I might still ask at some point.
 
thought about a custom ball lock post.
I bet a threaded extender would be far cheaper. Wonder if there’s enough meat left on the post that it can just have threads cut on top. Then screw another post to it

How much room do you have above the keg? Maybe you can make a mini tower to attach to the handles.
 
I’ve searched but never found a threaded extender. It would be perfect but I don’t think they exist.

I have hmm maybe 10” above the kegs, I’d have to measure (currently out of town). These are 3 gallon kegs, I can fit 5 gallon with about an inch to spare but very rarely use them and will know I’ll have lines and picnic taps when I do.
 
I mocked up "if I had an adaptor" to add the Nukatap to a standard ball lock post adapter, and I'm sure it'd clear. It tilts the Nukatap back a bit but I could live with it.

I stumbled across something, and I'll have to ping @Bobby_M here to verify - would the following combo, stacked, effectively "raise" my tap up?

This goes onto the keg, after of course I place the dip tube and O-ring: 19/32'' -18 Keg Thread to 1/4'' MFL Male Flare Adapter

Next, this goes on top of it: 1/4'' FFL Female Flare to 19/32'' -18 Keg Post Adapter

Would this act as an extender of sorts, for that keg connection?


That might allow me to carry on as desired. Which is to place this as normal: Liquid Side Ball Lock Keg Post (19/32'' - 18 thread) with Universal Poppet

Where lastly I can place this:
Temp.jpg
 
Good point, I'd need to order 1 to try before I order a couple more. If Bobby has a moment and sees this he might be able to guesstimate how much higher the combo would be. I'll also have to actually measure what I'm hoping for to compare.
 
Height needed. I'd bet that.4" would do, just over 3/8 of course. Half inch 1/2 would be certain to do it.

Hmm sorry about the pic size - not sure how to shrink it.

Height Needed.jpg
 
Didn't realize you were that close. If a half an inch will definitely do it, then what you describe in #34 should add more than enough height.
 
I think so too. I don't want to pester Bobby for piddly little stuff like this but I do hope he might see it and take a quick look. I'm ready to buy a few sets!
 
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