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Excited for my new sanke HLT

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Splangy,

Thank you for your buisness. It is appreciated greatly. Thank you for the tasty home bew as well.

:tank:
 
There are a couple methods I can think of how you do this but something resembling a pipe flaring tool along with a simple welded jig seems the best bet.

I mean really - how many would be welders do you think are within your market that are also on this forum?

I'm a pushy sonnofabitch... don't mind me.
 
A block of steel, with a concave side that roughly matches the radius of the keg's outer surface. A pocket milled into that curved side to allow the coupling to protrude out. A properly sized hole through the block that comes out in the middle of the pocket. A long bolt and a big wrench.

This might not be exactly how yours works but it would definitely work if that's how it was built.
 
There are a couple methods I can think of how you do this but something resembling a pipe flaring tool along with a simple welded jig seems the best bet.

I mean really - how many would be welders do you think are within your market that are also on this forum?

I'm a pushy sonnofabitch... don't mind me.

A block of steel, with a concave side that roughly matches the radius of the keg's outer surface. A pocket milled into that curved side to allow the coupling to protrude out. A properly sized hole through the block that comes out in the middle of the pocket. A long bolt and a big wrench.

This might not be exactly how yours works but it would definitely work if that's how it was built.



LMAO, I can't believe how much attention this is getting. Sorry, I have had several.:tank:

Just send me your kegs and there will be no worries.:D

Here, this is in ED's thread. This is how I back purge the couplers. I built this too.
P1010124.jpg
 
GreenMonti... Thanks for all the input/advice/help you have provided. I immediately looked into shipping my kegs to have you do the welding. At this point, I'm still working to find a local option.

I think you are a true craftsman... Nothing wrong with doing what you can to set your work apart.

If you happen to be sitting on the cure for cancer, please share. If you have some tools or techniques that help you to have nearly every brewer converting a keg want you do do theirs... congratulations. ;)

Ed
 
Being a wireman I was thinking a GreeLee hydraulic knock out punch with the female die modified with a slight radius added to match the exterior of the keg. The die can take this small amount of material removed without getting a thin edge before the relief farther inside the die.
Making sure the male die starting points are vertical it should punch clean not distorting the kegs radius or use a "Slug Cutter". these punches will make a clean hole, use or machine a larger thick walled tube with the same radius then pull a case hardened tapered slug thru making the raised dimple. I bet there's a sample keg in the shop that looks like the "Untouchables shootout with Ness" as his practice keg until modifications to this tool was perfected.

Plan "B" would be a scaled up sheetmetal dimpler made special to match the thicker gauge material with the exterior backing part of the tool having the same keg radius for uniform support and dimple. I'm thinking aircraft aluminum dimpling here as an 'ex licensed A & P mechanic for the airlines.

Take a look at Pat's or Lehr's brew stand with his dimpled stainless top plates he added.
Click! Light bulb just come on in ye ol gearbox ya think?

So true and hats off to GreenMonti a person with talent I know he must make his own tools, hell he thinks and builds in his sleep I bet.


At the 7-9 pain scale of 10 with back injuries and surgery there is no way in hell can I tig like I used to with my 1992 Miller 350 Synchrowave that's fully loaded pulser included. Nice machine but when in pain without any comfort zone welds became crap for me and I know it. This plus being away from it for over 6 years unless a quick tig job was done I became rather rusty with tig, my keg fittings worked but I wasn't proud of my welds. My take or two cents here.
 
Scroll down until you see the "bolt on series" (1018) steel.
This is how its done.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=796323

DeepSea

I wouldn't be so sure.

Just like anything else we do to stainless, using such a tool would increase your chances of putting free iron onto the stainless. Like a non stainless steel wire brush, or maybe a flapper wheel that was once used to grind on steel. Perhaps some cutting oil residue left from drilling. In which case when welded you will cause the chromium to bond with the carbon creating chromium carbide. It is the chromium that makes it stainless steel. You won't have stainless steel anymore. The chromium carbide will sit inbetween the grain structure. The only way I know of to cure this issue is to do a solution heat treat to regain the grain structure. You may as well not bother to purge the weld.

This may or may not be of concern to anyone. However, since I know this I have made my tool out of such a material that this wont be an issue.

Nice tool though. Great find.
 
That has to be some of the best looking welds I have ever seen. What is your location and contact information as I may have to go on a road trip or looking into sending you some work in the mail.

My hat is off to you....
 
That has to be some of the best looking welds I have ever seen. What is your location and contact information as I may have to go on a road trip or looking into sending you some work in the mail.

My hat is off to you....

Man that is slick.

Did you weld the inside too?

D.



Thank you for those kind words. No I didn't weld the inside.

Please see here for any more on my work. This thread has gone far off track.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keg-tool-152003/
 
Drink homebrews and hit it with a hammer, clearly the right answer.

I know nothing about welding but I have seen a fair amount of keggles and a ton of welds in general and that is the cleanest looking weld I've ever seen. Now to find someone in NY who can turn the same trick.
 
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