EVA Barrier Line conversion

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He has a broad selection of fittings in general including Duotight plus manifolds, quick disconnects, and Evabarrier in multiple sizes. Start here but if you don't see what you need there, it may be under a different category or try the search. https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1911.htm
Yeah I was hoping someone already went down this road at his store and figured out what is needed. I'm surprised MoreBeer doesn't make a conversion kit for switching over the entire gas side to EVAbarrier (including all fittings/lines that are needed).
 
I'm surprised MoreBeer doesn't make a conversion kit for switching over the entire gas side to EVAbarrier (including all fittings/lines that are needed).
Well, "all fittings/lines that are needed" is going to depend on exactly what you're converting, isn't it? They do sell KOMOS branded draft line kits, but those are going to include beverage tubing that you probably don't need and don't really address the regulator connection. You're probably going to be better off getting the individual parts that you need for your specific setup instead of trying to find a one size fits all solution.
 
Well, "all fittings/lines that are needed" is going to depend on exactly what you're converting, isn't it? They do sell KOMOS branded draft line kits, but those are going to include beverage tubing that you probably don't need and don't really address the regulator connection. You're probably going to be better off getting the individual parts that you need for your specific setup instead of trying to find a one size fits all solution.
I meant the stuff everyone would need, which I guess would be just at the regulator. My line then goes to a distribution block to feed my 2 kegs
 
I think the best thing a vendor could do is educate their potential customers on a small block of commonly used fittings and leave it at that. Folks just do things differently, and aside from maybe single tap kegerator users there probably isn't enough commonality to bother kitting solutions...

Cheers!
 
I was thinking i needed more than i do so you can disregard the kit comment. Do they make common thread sized fittings to duotight? I am hoping to avoid slipping a evabarrier line over a barb
 
The two most common thread types we deal with are 1/4" MFL (stems on QDs, regulator valves, wyes, tees and manifolds) and "beer thread" (7/8-14 for shanks and Sanke couplers). There are fittings from Duotight, JohnGuest, and DMFit, for all of those to 8mm and 9.5mm OD tubing (at the minimum - there may be others I haven't had to work with)...

Cheers!
 
A means of using duotight connections on my CO2 regulator which currently has a barb fitting. I need to connect that line to a 1 to 2 line distribution block which feeds my 2 kegs.
TBH I would just swage the EVAbarrier tubing over the barbs, slap some oetiker clamps on them and call it a day.
 
I meant the stuff everyone would need, which I guess would be just at the regulator. My line then goes to a distribution block to feed my 2 kegs
You are describing your setup in general decently enough to make suggestions but if you had a picture of your regulator and manifold that would be better. I have replaced a 4-way manifold on my kegerator with a 4 gauge secondary with evabarrier lines and the appropriatte fittings as well as converted my 4 tap jockey box to a evabarrier and duotight (push-to-connect) fittings while keeping the 4-way manifold. And others here have done similar and can help you. Now some of them may attempt to influence you to swage the evabarrier onto the barbs, which works, but it's so, well, barbaric:eek:. I'll start and then if or when I miss something someone else will jump me in and club correct me as needed. Give us those pics in the meantime.

Off the regulator to the manifold starts with a barb currently as you say. You might have an inline valve with a barb off the regulator. I just bought one like that. Since you are going to the manifold, a valve there isn't needed as you will have two more off the manifold. It could be helpful at some point for diagnostics but the barb is a problem. You can remove that valve. If no valve, then only a barbed fitting you could remove that fitting. I see you are in Jersey, so it's most likely a female 1/4" NPT thread off the regulator. If you show us the removed fitting or valve it will indicate the threads. If it happens to be flare threads, the male part of the fitting will be rounded. If not, you will need a 1/4" x ptc adapter. You have to decide here though what size evabarrier you want. I use all 8mm OD x 5mm ID evabarrier for both gas and beverage. You can fine tune it though. The 9mmx6.5mm evabarrier is a bigger line and perhaps better for gas. Your ptc size will be based on the OD of the evabarrier. Let's just use 8mmx5mm for now and then if you decide to vary it, you can just sub in the correct mm but make sure you can find all the fittings you need in that size at the store you want to order from else you will pay shipping twice. So you need an 1/4"x8mm ptc adapter with 8mm OD evabarrier. On your manifold, you will have a barb for the incoming line. Take that fitting off. It is probably 1/4" NPT female thread again so you need another of that same fitting. On your manifold, you will have your two inline valves. These should have integral check valves. Here's where you will pay $9+ a valve to get an inline valve with 1/4" flare threads on the out and on the in that will be 1/4" NPT. The valve should have a check valve inside too, read carefully when ordering. To each valve, attach a 1/4" female flare (ffl) x 8mm ptc adapter. You need two of those adapters. From there, evabarrier of sufficient length to reach your kegs and attach duotight ptc quick disconnects (8mm OD) for ball locks(?). If you want to keep older disconnects that have flare threads, you could buy two more of the 1/4"ffl x 8mm ptc adapters. I may have seen QDs that were pin lock and ptc or maybe I just dreamed it. I think that's it. I just bought a used 2 way manifold and ordered the parts that I needed from Brewhardware as a matter of fact. (I had a few adapters and one replacement valve). I was planning on using a tee instead of a manifold on my little jockey box, happened on the used manifold and was going to switch but decided earlier today that the two way manifold will work great for my oxygen tank. One line to go to my unitanks and one line to oxygenate my yeast starters with an O2 wand. I still haven't found where I put the damn tee though that I have to finish off that little jockey build. I may also now be missing the appropriate fitting for the O2 regulator but I can show the rest of it once I get the parts if the above put you to sleep.

There's these little clippy things that slide under the ptc collars to more firmly lock the connection. You'll want a bag of those, more than you think you need because they like to pop off to heaven knows where. I find most of them when I deep clean but never all of them. I can point you to or someone else will beat me to the links to all these items just depends on if you want to save money and swage the evabarrier. The crew around here is insanely savage and will I hesitate to use such language, brutally and forceably swage even the smallest ID evabarrier onto barbs. I will leave that to them should that be your choice.

Then again, maybe now you are in PA. Still likely NPT.
 
Hey @RyPA ..It sounds like you're just a bit uneasy with the unknown. Us barbarians can post all the pics of finished products and say how easy it is, but that doesn't help... Maybe this will: I recruited my GF to hold the camera and though I don't like to post large files on here, made a video to show just how quick and painless it is:

The part in the glaring sunlight that's hard to see is just my keg-lube tub..a little keg lube on the barb helps.
Oh..and I didn't put the 13.3mm oetiker clamp on, but that's the only part missing.
:mug:
 
TBH I would just swage the EVAbarrier tubing over the barbs, slap some oetiker clamps on them and call it a day.
Yep! Exactly what I plan to do. Unlike a beer line that gets swapped out and needs routine cleaning, I just need the gas line to be secure. All my lines are clamped on now, so this will be no change in the use.
I have slowly come around to try and appreciate the duotight fittings, (especially in my jockey box with a two-line cold plate), but I am a little concerned about leaks and the strength of the plastic. I have way more confidence in a line clamped onto a metal barb. Maybe that’s a legitimate fear; maybe not. I am gaining a little more confidence in the duotight as I have more experience with them. I guess time will tell.
 
I never had to swage anything.

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It should be noted that the Duotight fittings for the regulator manifold are not the correct thread, so they deform when you tighten them. It is important to trim the threaded section and to snug the fitting's washer to the manifold to prevent leaks.

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I never had to swage anything.

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It should be noted that the Duotight fittings for the regulator manifold are not the correct thread, so they deform when you tighten them. It is important to trim the threaded section and to snug the fitting's washer to the manifold to prevent leaks.

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Thanks for the backside-of-kegerator pics! I'm currently debating just how to mount a manifold (as a placeholder for future secondaries) on my series-X kegerator that also has the tank conveniently hanging on the back (where I'd like to keep it).
Owing to disability, I find my own hose-cuts below my threshold for 'peace-of-mind'...when the hose to a duotight is curved too far off-axis, unless the cut is perfectly right-angled and without any flashing left behind, there is a 50/50 chance of a leak and I did that with 3 connections so far. Mind you; I'm not negging Duotights! They just don't work as well for me. I did leave them (or rather 'Monotight" [probably the Duotight OEM anyway] as 6.35mm straight connecters were not yet available as Duotight) on my liquid line>Nukatap shank when I switched to 3mm EVABarrier>1/4" barbed swivel-nuts for the disconnect.
I will though, stick my toungue in my cheek and recommend getting a bit of EVABarrier and swaging it to your regulator and manifold input just to get rid of that last bit of O2-permeable stuff.
Really though: Thanks for the pics!
:mug:
 
I never had to swage anything.

View attachment 858213

View attachment 858214

View attachment 858215

It should be noted that the Duotight fittings for the regulator manifold are not the correct thread, so they deform when you tighten them. It is important to trim the threaded section and to snug the fitting's washer to the manifold to prevent leaks.

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Did you take the barbs off the valves on the secondaries? Some you can and some you can't. I have just changed out the valves at the manifold or off the secondary and the new ones bought have flare threads. Yes the Duotights are BSP. On the primary is where I suggested using that 1/4" x ptc adapter and in to a manifold. Which I have used one Duotight before there however all my manifolds and my secondary have 1/4" NPT X1/4" ffl adapters or a valve with flare threads. Just the way they came, I don't remember changing them. Freshwater systems has a great selection of fittings I'd bet there's an NPT one available. Otherwise, I happen to have 4 of those NPT to flare adapters, 3 brass and one SS. I pulled the brass ones off an old manifold. No need to modify the Duotight there, just add the adapter if you can't find the NPT X ptc adapter and brass ones are cheap. I recommend the valve change as there's no concern about getting the barb out.

I don't find getting oetiker clamps off easy, if any one has a tried and true quick method? It's handy to have the ptc fitting off the primary regulator if you move the tank around for different tasks. Some sort of QD there. Worm drive clamps don't hold as well in my opinion and are more prone to leaks.
 
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@RyPA I know you were leaning towards swaging it but here's the conversion on the 2 way manifold. Having to change out the ball valves prevents much if any cost savings. Brewhardware for instance sells a 2-way flared manifold for $24. The valves are $8.99 there. Looks like they also have decided to stock only flared manifolds, and have their own branded 3 and 4 ways with nicer ball valves. Also they standardized the incoming gas with that 1/4"mfl x 1/4" MPT adapter. I had all the adapters already plus one valve. This manifold came as part of a sweet deal I got last weekend. Swaging them on and using the oetiker clamps should be fine. You might get some beer into the QD at some point, it won't get past the check valve. Conceivably you might need to take the line off to clean it and resanitize.

I've been hanging out on this Lord of the Flies island too much. I must just swage the evabarrier onto the O2 regulator. It has a smaller threaded barb, not too sure about the threads. Didn't fit any of threads on my thread identifier. Possibly 1/8" NPT but for a one-off item I'm not sure I want to have to order twice if I'm wrong. It's one of those medical green O2 regulators.

I do have a swaging tool. I needed it for my copper CFC. It's really useful for irrigation trunk lines, which is not standardized.
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Picked up my my package of 6.3mm ID EVA hose today at the PO. Just completed putting together a gas line for my single body Tapright regulator. I wanted to go with the valve and barb already on the regulator, and use the standard CMB ball lock connector.

Putting the connector on was no issue since 6.3mm is ¼” and I have 3/16” swivel barbs on hand. I just put the swivel barb on the connector (so I had something to hold onto) and pushed it right in. I clamped it with an 11.3mm oetiker clamp.
The barb on the gas valve attached to the regulator has a ⅜” barb. I slipped a 12.8mm oetiker clamp over the end of the hose, rubbed a tiny, tiny amount of keg lube onto the barb and went to the kitchen stove. I brought a small pot of water up to boiling and dunked an 1-½” of the hose in for 4-5 seconds. I inserted the tapered sharpening steel from our knife block into the end about an inch and let it all cool for a few more seconds. I pulled out the steel and the hose slipped onto the barb smoothly and snug. I tightened the clamp and was done. Really simple, and I am anxious to change out all my lines! 😁
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