Equipment for Yeast Study

CornyKegs 728
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I wasn't buried under a landslide of suggestions. Either all gurus decided my question was way beneath the level, or I was too silly to ask such a trivial thing.

However, a new try...

1 - Gram Staining kit
2 - Methyl Blue
3 - Methyl Violet
4 -....
5 - .....
6 - ......

Can anyone add any reagent that might be of any use, or this list is in fact all we need?

Thanks.
 
GQT said:
I wasn't buried under a landslide of suggestions. Either all gurus decided my question was way beneath the level, or I was too silly to ask such a trivial thing.

However, a new try...

1 - Gram Staining kit
2 - Methyl Blue
3 - Methyl Violet
4 -....
5 - .....
6 - ......

Can anyone add any reagent that might be of any use, or this list is in fact all we need?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I can't answer directly as I've just started myself. I just ordered this one to try to cover all my bases.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0176WLTLI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
 
Last edited by a moderator:
CA_Mouse said:
I can't answer directly as I've just started myself. I just ordered this one to try to cover all my bases.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Do you know exactly which reagent goes for which purpose? I won't order from Amazon (insane delivery costs) but I can of course buy all them in local market. However perhaps there are some that we simply don't need at all.
Anyway, thank you, this is at least something to begin with. I will simple google all those reagents and see if they have anything to do with yeast.
 
I've been told that the Methylene Blue and Violet stains are the best for yeast/bacteria. I bought the entire kit because I've got two daughters that will be using the microscope for school as well.
 
I'm not sure a gram stain will help you much; any brewing bacteria that you want in there will be gram-positive; so unless something is very wrong with your brew-day, the gram-stain probably won't help you much. I'm not sure how good methyl blue will be, as is it primarily for histology of human tissues. Methyl violet is essentially crystal violet, which nicely stains both bacteria and fungi.

A simple stain such as crystal violet or malachite green can help to better observe bacterial and yeast morphology. I prefer malachite green as it doesn't require alcohol as a solvent and gives a deeper colour to the bacteria/yeast.

Another dye to consider is methylene blue (not to be confused with methyl blue), as it is a good dye for viability staining of yeast.

Bryan
 
Warthaug said:
Methyl violet.....
Click to expand...
Thanks Bryan, well... gram kit is more for, errr, fun and pleasure while practicing skills at the same time. Besides, who knows what I can find in my brews!
Looks like we'll be just fine with as little as one chemical, tops two - for every possible need we might have.
Strangely, no one mentioned special agars like HLP and alike - they are unavailable in CHinese market anyway, and I don't think I'd buy them right away from America, but it'd be good to know all possible things we might need for whatever yeast and beer diagnostics.
I noticed there's a huge difference in price between same reagents from different producers (and of course imported stuff costs 5 to 10 times as much as local Chinese). Is there really any difference in performance that would justify paying so much more?
 
There isn't really any good reason to buy commercial microbiological media, not for the home-brewer. As you've noticed, they are not cheap. You may get slightly better growth of desired organisms, and may have slightly less risk of contamination from others, but given the cost difference its hard to argue for their use. The other thing to keep in mind is that some - including HLP - contain highly toxic compounds that need to be handled carefully. In contrast, home-brewed media such a malt-agar and potato-dextrose agar are completely safe.

Bryan
 
What is the best way to clean agar/wort media from glass cylinders, flasks and pipettes?
 
A Question about slant storage in general:

What are your thoughts on the effectivness/need for taping up slants? Arn't the autoclavable caps capable of giving a sufficient seal for dry-out protection?

So far I haven't been tape-sealing my slants; I just close, cover w/ aluminium, and place in a zip-lock, then refridgerate. (regular slants).

I thought I have seen some high-falutin' places just dust cover their closed slants and refridgerate, but I could have misunderstood what I was seeing.

Is taping a well sealed slant superfluous?
 
Blue-Frog said:
Is taping a well sealed slant superfluous?
Click to expand...

I have been told several times that it may not be needed, but every little thing that we can do to prevent infection/dry out/cross contamination/spillage is worth the small time and expense that things, like taping add to storage. Even taping plates has been advised.
 
It blows me away that they can sit for so long without tape or tightening the caps while propagating.
Positive pressure? CO2?
 
Blue-Frog said:
What are your thoughts on the effectivness/need for taping up slants? Arn't the autoclavable caps capable of giving a sufficient seal for dry-out protection?
Click to expand...
Cap-seals are generally good for short-term storage; they are prone to failure and even when used properly leak slowly. Keep in mind that those seals have been designed to keep slants from leaking over short periods of time; the era of long-term bacterial/yeast storage on slants (in research/commercial circles) ended in the 1970's, as did the availability of tubes with appropriate seals.

It really comes down to your intended duration of storage and aversion to risk. A taped tube will allow in less oxygen (which for storage is bad), and reduce dehydration, compared to an untapped tube - both will improve the stability of the slant. In addition, it acts as a backup should your cap-seal fail or be faulty. A few cents worth of tape can save a "priceless" culture.

B
 
Question to those who know for sure: Would paraffin oil do for yeast immersion?
The books only state some "mineral oil"; looks like paraffin oil is the only sort of it that I can procure here without really serious search.
Thanks!
 
I'd be dubious about paraffin oil; its made of lower-weight carbon compounds and may have a solvent effect on the yeast (i.e. kill them).
 
Warthaug said:
I'd be dubious about paraffin oil
Click to expand...
Pity... then maybe you could give me some name of the oil? I don't mean brand, I mean its sort/type/whatever proper name by which it can be searched.
Just "mineral oil" gives me a million pages all about automotive and industrial oils. Pharmaceutical grade and medical grade brought nearly zero results, at least none usable.
I need to know what to look for.
:(
 
GQT said:
Pity... then maybe you could give me some name of the oil? I don't mean brand, I mean its sort/type/whatever proper name by which it can be searched.
Just "mineral oil" gives me a million pages all about automotive and industrial oils. Pharmaceutical grade and medical grade brought nearly zero results, at least none usable.
I need to know what to look for.
:(
Click to expand...

Shouldn't you be looking for immersion oil?
 
GQT said:
Pity... then maybe you could give me some name of the oil? I don't mean brand, I mean its sort/type/whatever proper name by which it can be searched.
Just "mineral oil" gives me a million pages all about automotive and industrial oils. Pharmaceutical grade and medical grade brought nearly zero results, at least none usable.
I need to know what to look for.
:(
Click to expand...

Light mineral oil is the technical name for it; AFAIK there is no other common name. You could search for a manufacturer/supplier in your area by searching for "pharmaceutical grade", "USP grade" or "cosmetic mineral oil".

In reply to CA_Mouse, immersion oil is lens oil for microscopes; you wouldn't want to use that - very expensive, and I don't think it would work.

Bryan
 
Warthaug said:
Light mineral oil is the technical name for it; AFAIK there is no other common name. You could search for a manufacturer/supplier in your area by searching for "pharmaceutical grade", "USP grade" or "cosmetic mineral oil".

In reply to CA_Mouse, immersion oil is lens oil for microscopes; you wouldn't want to use that - very expensive, and I don't think it would work.

Bryan
Click to expand...

I may have missed something here... Is GQT looking for oil for storage or for using with a microscope? If for using with a microscope, I was under the impression that the only oil to use was immersion oil. If for storage, then I guess I need to read up on that technique.
 
CA_Mouse said:
Is GQT looking for oil for storage or for using with a microscope?
Click to expand...
Storage, of course. Immersion oil for lenses is (as the label reads) kind of synthetic cedar oil, and I have way too much already: the mic came with a bottle, the vendor threw in one more without telling me, and my Chinese wife who handled the deal just added one more to round up the sum. Anyone in need of some? Come and take...
;)
GQT for your guys fun and information is not a name - the name is Mark - but an abbreviation of one of the names for my brewery that we considered (and did not pass as final); the full name would be GouQiTu: "A Dog Rides a Rabbit". My best friend grew up in Beijing in times when cars were scarce, so when he was a kid he used this name for three-wheeled motor cabs, once the only available alternative to taxis in the old capital.
 
GQT said:
Storage, of course. Immersion oil for lenses is (as the label reads) kind of synthetic cedar oil, and I have way too much already: the mic came with a bottle, the vendor threw in one more without telling me, and my Chinese wife who handled the deal just added one more to round up the sum. Anyone in need of some? Come and take...
;)
GQT for your guys fun and information is not a name - the name is Mark - but an abbreviation of one of the names for my brewery that we considered (and did not pass as final); the full name would be GouQiTu: "A Dog Rides a Rabbit". My best friend grew up in Beijing in times when cars were scarce, so when he was a kid he used this name for three-wheeled motor cabs, once the only available alternative to taxis in the old capital.
Click to expand...

Mark, thanks for the clarification on both the name and the reason for mineral oil. I hadn't read anything about using mineral oil as a storage medium. I was/am planning on using Vegetable Glycerin for my storage medium. :mug:
 
Glycerin works very well for freezer storage as it acts as a cryprotectant to keep the cell walls from bursting when the water freezes.

If you haven't done so already, you should read up on a user named S. Cerevisiaes over at the AHA forums and on the experimental brewing blog, he's the local yeast wrangler in the AHA forums and is very knowledgeable. Also his name is Mark, and so is mine :p
 
pricelessbrewing said:
Glycerin works very well for freezer storage as it acts as a cryprotectant to keep the cell walls from bursting when the water freezes.

If you haven't done so already, you should read up on a user named S. Cerevisiaes over at the AHA forums and on the experimental brewing blog, he's the local yeast wrangler in the AHA forums and is very knowledgeable. Also his name is Mark, and so is mine :p
Click to expand...


Mark deleted his account so searching him will be tough. I have a word file with many of his highlights if you guys are interested.

Not sure if he will be posting the blog anymore either.
 
RPIScotty said:
Mark deleted his account so searching him will be tough. I have a word file with many of his highlights if you guys are interested.

Not sure if he will be posting the blog anymore either.
Click to expand...

wwwwhhhhaaatttt? When did that happen? Fairly recently I imagine as I remember seeing posts a couple days ago.
 
RPIScotty said:
I have a word file with many of his highlights if you guys are interested.
Click to expand...
Better to have than not to. Thank you for offering. What's the easiest way to get it? Would you upload it somewhere, or simply email?
 
GQT said:
Better to have than not to. Thank you for offering. What's the easiest way to get it? Would you upload it somewhere, or simply email?
Click to expand...

I'm going to try and put a document together with all the impotant info across his posts. i'll keep youguys posted. PM mewith e-mails and i'll send the word document with links to his posts.
 
That is a complete shame, and ****ty thing for a person to do to another person, and a business to do to an employee. If you're off the clock, and not disclosing private business practices/information, then I don't care what you're doing as long as it's legal.

Please PM me too, here, on AHA, or by email is fine. IDC.
 
pricelessbrewing said:
That is a complete shame, and ****ty thing for a person to do to another person, and a business to do to an employee. If you're off the clock, and not disclosing private business practices/information, then I don't care what you're doing as long as it's legal.



Please PM me too, here, on AHA, or by email is fine. IDC.
Click to expand...


It is what it is. Ethics is a serious thing for employers who get the lions share of their funding from grants and the like.

I hate to see him go but it was evident he was getting burnt out. The "New Starter Procedure Trial" really snowballed and brought a ton of questions and contention to his doorstep. Hopefully he keeps up the blog.
 
Asked it in a slant thread but still hope for more opinions so sorry for reposting; What is your favorite size for slanting tubes?
20 ml tubes are just not feeling comfy in my hands, and inoculating them with a loop is a punishment (loop not rigid enough, slant too long, etc).
10 ml feel a ton better but I am worried whether there will be enough wort there to keep the dogs alive in their sleep.
15 ml tubes are unfortunately just a slimmer version of 20 ml ones but not a shorter version...
Thx guys your help is really much appreciated.
 

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