Element in 10g Blichmann

[rollinred]

In the final stages of getting my list for parts needed on the electric build.

I still need a couple things before I can start ordering parts.

1) I am going to use a 5500w element in a 10G Blichmann. The Camco ULWD element shows a length of 17.25 inches. My assumption is that it includes the terminal end in the measurement but I would guess this is still too long for the 10g kettle as I think I will only have 14 inside inches to work with, maybe less. Any ideas as to what element works best in the 10g Blichmann's?

2) Maybe I will get lucky and get the advice from the Almighty PJ on wiring but the system will be something like this:

-Safety Shut off
-Float Switch
-Auber PID
-Auber SSR
-5500 w element
-Lighted on/off switch for element


I intend to eventually have two elements and at least one pump. I think I will just wait to wire those later outlets and switches in later so the above requirements are the necessary parts.

PJ, I know you have a lot of requests for help and I appreciate what you do for all of us. If you want me to contact you via PM please let me know. Also, I have a Grainger account and get awesome discounts and it looks like you might know what parts I can get from them to make this happen as far as the switches go.


Thanks in advance to all of you who have helped in this process. I hope to be brewing with it before winter hits hard.

 

[kevink]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/actual-kettle-element-length-244364/

 

[P-J]

Using illuminated element switches will require that you use contactors to control element power.
Float switch? Which one?
What is your source power - 30A, 50A, 3 or 4 wire or something else?

What about GFCI protection?

Let me know.

 

[P-J]

Well, I messed with a setup and hope it fits your needs.

As usual click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper 11" x 17".






The float switch I used for the illustration is from eBay:
Click the link:
Water Liquid Level Float Stainless Steel Switch Sensor

I Hope this helps.

 

[rollinred]

Using illuminated element switches will require that you use contactors to control element power.
Float switch? Which one?
What is your source power - 30A, 50A, 3 or 4 wire or something else?

What about GFCI protection?

Let me know.

Thanks for the reply and sorry for leaving out so much info.

First off it it will be a 30a 4 wire dryer outlet. I think I am going to do a float switch but have not settled on it yet. If If the Camco ULWD element will fit in the kettle I may decide to not use the float switch. But it would be something like this http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MADISON-Liquid-Level-Switch-5DYC2?Pid=search

A lot simply hinges on whether that element will fit. And from the looks of it, it will.

As I mentioned before the initial build will not have the pumps or the other element but I may wire it anyway to make it easier in the end. I will also be using the spa disconnect as my GFCI since I do not own the house and don't want to spend the cash on a breaker I may not use in the next place.

 

[P-J]

Here is the setup for the Spa Panel:

The panel is This One from Home.Depot.

 

[P-J]

BTW: Let me know what you decide to do.
I think I've provided enough info for you to make some decisions. No?

 

[rollinred]

BTW: Let me know what you decide to do.
I think I've provided enough info for you to make some decisions. No?

P-J, you have done a LOT to help me out. Other than the diagram having more stuff on it than I will use right now everything is exactly what I need from what I can tell. I am going to put together a parts list tonight and get an idea for what kind of cost I am looking at. I know I am going to forget stuff on the list though. So many little parts go in to this project.

Right now it will just be a single element setup and no pumps. I am also going to skip the liquid level switch for now (one less hole in the Blichmann). Just need to figure out my element mounting now.

Again, thank you for what you have done.

 

[rollinred]

P-J, Looking back through the diagram are you saying that I will need an extra contact block on the selector switch or is that two extra contacts that will be needed?

I work in the food equipment service industry and I know for sure that I could find every part I need except for the PID and RTD for no cost what so ever. It may just take me many months of amassing parts. I use these switches all the times. In fact we replace them several times a year on customer equipment and a lot of times it is just preventative, which means the parts are still good.

 

[P-J]

The switch is a 3 position switch on/off/on and will require a total of 4 n/o modules to operate as illustrated.

 

[rollinred]

I haven't been on much and obviously haven't updated this thread in a long time but the rig is coming along. I have all the parts other than some miscellaneous stuff. Right Now I am looking at my control box with the wire in hand.

I have been looking at PJ's diagram from the first page and have a question or two. Now keep in mind I have deviated from that setup in a couple ways. This is the final check list.

30A 4-wire service running a single 5500w element.
-Lighted selector switch with contactor
-SYL2352 PID
-40A SSR
- This terminal block Square D LBA362104 Terminal Blocks | LBA362104 terminal block by Square D | bid buy make offer Square D LBA362104

The question I have is regarding wire gauge from the terminal block. I was originally under the impression that the wire gauge for any 120v accessory only needs to be 14ga going to that part so long as it is fused before the component at or bellow the amperage level the wire gauge can handle.

I guess to sum up the question... Do I need 10 gauge only for the wires feeding the element? And the E-stop as suggested by PJ. Since this theoretically does carry 30a do I need that to be 10 gauge from terminal block all the way back through ground? Is there an illustration of how to put together the E-stop with the resistors?

Thanks everyone. Taking some pictures along the way. Will post something soon.