Electric newbie needs educating: RIMS

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

logdrum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,137
Reaction score
143
Location
North Olmsted
Ok, I'm ready to take the leap to a RIMS system (still using NG for boil & likely strike/sparge water) but am not sure what I need to be purchasing. My eventual goal is to get a 110v RIMS Rocket, probably by June. In the mean time, I'd like to get started on my controller. The RIMS Rocket is 20A & I have a dedicated 20A GFCI, so I'm looking at the Auber EZ Boil. What should my SSR be rated at? What other components do I need to pull this off? Any help is much appreciated!
 

the-crowing

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
85
Reaction score
4
What size batches are you making? You can get a 1500w element and tube a lot cheaper than the Blichmann rocket. An SSR needs to be rated for 20A and will need a heat sink. I like using a contactor to driven by an SSR for my element. You'll also need a pump so if you're planning on running that on the same cicuit as a rocket you might run into issues
 

doug293cz

BIABer, Beer Math Nerd, ePanel Designer, Pilot
Staff member
Mod
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
11,269
Reaction score
7,394
Location
Renton
Here's a fairly simple design for a 120V RIMS control panel using the EZBoil (DSPR120.) It does provide an element power interlock, so that you cannot apply power to the element unless the pump is turned on (and will cut power to the element if the pump is turned off.) The interlock doesn't protect against forgetting to plug the pump into the outlet, or conditions where no wort is flowing thru the pump (impeller jam, lack of prime, flow restrictions in grain bed, etc.) You don't have to use the exact components specified, but any substitutes should be similarly rated. The SSR doesn't have to be a 40A, a 25A SSR would be sufficient (but I like to use solid state devices that are over spec'ed.)

DSPR120 1-Pump 1-Aux 120V pump interlock.jpg

Brew on :mug:
 
OP
logdrum

logdrum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,137
Reaction score
143
Location
North Olmsted
Here's a fairly simple design for a 120V RIMS control panel using the EZBoil (DSPR120.) It does provide an element power interlock, so that you cannot apply power to the element unless the pump is turned on (and will cut power to the element if the pump is turned off.) The interlock doesn't protect against forgetting to plug the pump into the outlet, or conditions where no wort is flowing thru the pump (impeller jam, lack of prime, flow restrictions in grain bed, etc.) You don't have to use the exact components specified, but any substitutes should be similarly rated. The SSR doesn't have to be a 40A, a 25A SSR would be sufficient (but I like to use solid state devices that are over spec'ed.)

View attachment 395600

Brew on :mug:
You sir are my hero! I should have mentioned that I'm currently using a 2 keggle/cooler MLT NG system w 2 pumps. The only component I'm concerned about electrifying is the MLT. Also, 5 gallons of finished beer is my target 90% of the time w/ an occasional 10 gallon batch.
 
OP
logdrum

logdrum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,137
Reaction score
143
Location
North Olmsted
What size batches are you making? You can get a 1500w element and tube a lot cheaper than the Blichmann rocket. An SSR needs to be rated for 20A and will need a heat sink. I like using a contactor to driven by an SSR for my element. You'll also need a pump so if you're planning on running that on the same cicuit as a rocket you might run into issues
Thanks for the input! I hadn't figured on the additional power requirements of the pumps, I do have another separate circuit I can use to run them. The compelling feature of the RIMS Rocket for me, is its ability to pull double duty as a hop back.
 
OP
logdrum

logdrum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,137
Reaction score
143
Location
North Olmsted
I should also add that I'm not wedded to the RIMS Rocket, just getting my feet wet ATM. I've ordered my Spike MLT & want to start putting together the control side.
 

doug293cz

BIABer, Beer Math Nerd, ePanel Designer, Pilot
Staff member
Mod
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2014
Messages
11,269
Reaction score
7,394
Location
Renton
Thanks for the input! I hadn't figured on the additional power requirements of the pumps, I do have another separate circuit I can use to run them. The compelling feature of the RIMS Rocket for me, is its ability to pull double duty as a hop back.
A 2000W element draws 16.7A @ 120V. A Chugger pump draws 1.4A. So your total load would be 18.3A. This should be ok on a 20A circuit since it won't be continuous operation (3 hrs or more at a time.) A slightly smaller element would give you even more margin vs. your circuit capacity. A second pump should be run off a different circuit.

Brew on :mug:
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,284
Reaction score
2,279
Location
North Tonawanda NY
What size batches are you making? You can get a 1500w element and tube a lot cheaper than the Blichmann rocket. An SSR needs to be rated for 20A and will need a heat sink. I like using a contactor to driven by an SSR for my element. You'll also need a pump so if you're planning on running that on the same cicuit as a rocket you might run into issues
Hope you have that backwards... using assr to drive a mechanical switch/relay like a contactor will burn out the contacts and it will either stop working and not come on or be stuck on when it does fail.

the contactor should always be BEFORE the ssr. and/or at least activated by a separate on /off switch
 

exc503

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2013
Messages
180
Reaction score
15
I am in the middle of a very similar purchase/build right now.... take a look at the ebrewsupply 20amp 120v rims DIY for ease of sourcing some of the small parts. http://www.ebrewsupply.com/1-pid-20a-120v-rims-kit/. You will still need to source a PID, enclosure, and power inlet and outlets, temp sensor. He provides the circuit diagrams that correspond to the equipment, and are fairly easy to read.

Hunt down the RTD sensors early, especially if your are looking at some of the china options, they work but shipping takes forever.

I purchased this, and the RimsRocket, for the same reasons you listed above. and also I liked the more complete feel of the RimsRocket, with its molded grounded plug, and purpose built connectors vs the Rims tubes with HD elements, and wiring. Wiring is nothing new to me so that part doesn't worry me much. The ebrewsupply kit says it is rated for 1 2000w element and 2 pumps. I will be running 1 pump, 1 element (same setup as yours for boil and strike/sparge water).

(I have the advantage of already having a pre-wired, 2 circuit, 20amp 120v twist-locked run in my brew space, so I will be running two circuits to my panel anyway just in case I want to run an accessory outlet off my pump, and just have build an extension cord, and put two GFI breakers in the panel.)

(Just a hint, don't forget the cost of the ancillary's, i.e. wire, ties, mounts, inlet and outlets, those add up fast, and quality electric parts run nearly the price of the main parts. I did, and it really smacked me in the face, even when purchaseing through the supply house I used to work at.)
 

highland_brewer

Short Circuited Brewers
HBT Supporter
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
520
Reaction score
343
Location
Columbus
Top