Electric HLT thread.

[slnies]

Regardless - that seems like a pretty easy way to control the element does it not? There are only three relay terminals, so I am guessing that you would use one for the common, and one for the live? Assuming that your could write some software to control the heating element you could use the following tun:

MiniHot Liquor Tank [hlt15] : Minibrew, Manufactured by the Hobby Beverage Equipment Company

and add an element to it.

I think that I will choose to disagree. On the grounds that programing is only easy if you know how, and are good at it. I am no programer, so a SSR and a PID will do the job. No programing needed. Set the dead band, hit auto tune, and when the PID is finished, push the button until I have the right temp and the PID does the rest. Don't get me wrong, if you have the know how then the USB device has a lot of cool factor. But cool for me follows the simple KISS rule, and programing busts that all to hell.
Cheers, S.

 

[kappclark]

I contacted Brewmation for printed materials. Looks like just what I want. Seems easier than the BrewMagic system, and less $

How do you handle the steam when brewing in the basement ? A Dryer vent ? I do have a window close by the room I hope to convert ...

This will be a real man cave - just need to hire an electrician, plumber, sheetrocker and a BANKER!

 

[Brewing Clamper]

I contacted Brewmation for printed materials. Looks like just what I want. Seems easier than the BrewMagic system, and less $

How do you handle the steam when brewing in the basement ? A Dryer vent ? I do have a window close by the room I hope to convert ...

This will be a real man cave - just need to hire an electrician, plumber, sheetrocker and a BANKER!

Keep us updated! I want to know what I'm missing out on...

 

[Chriso]

I'll keep you posted too! Got my order in for my 18gal BrewMation HLT, and I've got my new kettle too! Now I just need..... Electric line + outlet, Electric stove with canning element, March Pump, and to rig up an exhaust vent.

 

[Brewing Clamper]

This is my KISS take on it

Hey Orfy, Is your boil kettle element wired straight to the plug and always on when plugged in? This is what I'm thinking of starting with, a 5500W 240V element on my BK straight plug in. Thanks.

 

[EdWort]

If you brew indoors... how does one easily dispose of the spent grain?

Have you seen his rock stone path through his forest? It's food for the deer, and the stones are the "skillet"

 

[Orfy]

Hey Orfy, Is your boil kettle element wired straight to the plug and always on when plugged in? This is what I'm thinking of starting with, a 5500W 240V element on my BK straight plug in. Thanks.

Yes but I don't know if i would recommend it.
If I wasn't a KISS follower I'd make some additions adjustments.
I would definitely recommend a float switch.


If you notice I now us a keggle. I set the first plastic one on fire!!!!!

I have a PID/SSR built for it but haven't got round to commitioning it.

It's dead easy to leave it until it's neer temp. Wait a minute or two untill it hits temp then pull the plug.

On the odd occasion I leave it too long and it goes over temp I just make a cold water addition.

KISS baby. :rockin:

 

[Brewing Clamper]

Yes but I don't know if i would recommend it.
If I wasn't a KISS follower I'd make some additions adjustments.
I would definitely recommend a float switch.


If you notice I now us a keggle. I set the first plastic one on fire!!!!!

I have a PID/SSR built for it but haven't got round to commitioning it.

It's dead easy to leave it until it's neer temp. Wait a minute or two untill it hits temp then pull the plug.

On the odd occasion I leave it too long and it goes over temp I just make a cold water addition.

KISS baby. :rockin:

That sounds good. I'm starting with a boil kettle so I'll be using my keggle. I won't worry about the HLT for a while because I do want to have a temp controller on that. Thanks for the help...

 

[Ecnerwal]

IMHO - if you are using an unswitched plug-in element, walk over to your circuit breaker box, turn the breaker for the socket off, plug it in, turn the breaker on, when hot, turn the breaker off, when done, turn the breaker off and unplug.

Those plugs are really not meant to be used as switches.

If the breaker panel is far away (or is, god forbid, a fuse box) buy a small switch (disconnect) box or breaker box and wire it in (or have it wired in, if you are not too handy) before the socket. Shop carefully and it's like $30 or so.

Arcing and sparking and wet hands....

 

[Chriso]

Mine is, god forbid, indeed a fuse box. X_x Don't know about bc's though. That's why I'm glad I'm going the Brewmation fancified route.

 

[kappclark]

Is anyone familiat with the electric mashing system from Highgravitybrew ?

Build Your Own Electric Brewery/Mashing System - High Gravity

The want aby $1,000 for the system..alot less than $3,400 for the Brewmation..

 

[jamescb77]

that one also doesn't come with an electric brew pot just the HLT and MT

 

[JVD_X]

I just bought their mlt after going through several revisions of coolers that I didn't like. My last cooler deformed in the heat and the tap popped out tearing the side with it. I plan on brewing with it next weekend so I can post a review of it then.

I already have the 15 gallon conical from hobby beverage and it rocks. Like the conical the mlt is made of hdpe so it should be very thick and maintain heat well.

While it is true that the mlt does not come with an electric element or control, it does come equiped with a predrilled hole for one.

 

[kappclark]

Sorry - could not follow...

who is better ? High gravity brew or the brewmation ?

 

[fat x nub]

Here you go...i read two of these gets the wort boiling in 35 minutes Allied Precision Bucket Heater, 1000 Watts, 120 Volts, Model 742G (usahardware.com)

 

[Chriso]

@Bill, The "Hobby Beverage" Hot Liquor Tun is the one that High Gravity sells. It is not High Gravity's own system, rather a system sold by the Hobby Beverage company of California ( http://www.minibrew.com/ ).

I have one of their 6.5gal MiniBrew Conical Fermenters and like it. I like their Hot Liquor Tun, but would never use one of those mash tuns because - conversely to JVD's experience - I don't ever wanna give my cooler MLT up.

My personal setup will be the Brewmation 18 gal that EdWort and I both ordered, a Cooler MLT (currently Igloo 48qt but might go bigger), and a 15gal Aluminum kettle.

In my pilot stages, I might close the door to my brew room, open one window, and put a fan exhausting in the other window. Eventually, I hope to have my boil running on electric too. I have not yet decided how I will be doing this.

 

[kappclark]

Thanks -

So, you will make the wort electrically, so to speak, then use gas for the boil ..

I guess what appeals to me about electric is I can brew all year round indoors. If I did this, I would want to go to the boil in the same area as the MLT .. all in one spot ...firing up propane in the basement is not for me.

I suppose there are plenty of electric boilers out there, or plans for heat sticks + brew pots..

No end to what one van spend, I suppose.

 

[Chriso]

I will use gas for the boil in my initial stages, yes, while I am finishing other projects. That is partially because I have not yet figured out what I need to electrically boil 10 gallons of wort -- but without cutting holes into my new kettle.

Part of my design for this brew setup is that - by leaving the Electric HLT at home, and taking only my cooler MLT and my brew kettle - that I can brew on propane outdoors at friends' houses, without having to "tear down" very much, or keep a 2nd set of gear.

Make sense?

By next spring, I hope to be away from using propane in the basement. It's just an interim setup while I'm finishing other projects (motorized grain mill, walk-in cooler, etc).

 

[kappclark]

Yes - makes sense...

So you start the process with first infusion...then you take the MLT outside to drain into the pot ?

You will still need some add'l hot water for the batch sparging - right ?

 

[kappclark]

High Gravity system vs Brewmation:

This a copy of the comment I received from Brewmation regarding what makes it different from High Gravity:

-----------------------------------------------------

Hi Bill,

The biggest difference is that the High Gravity equipment is what they
call "experimental".

From the site:

"This equipment is sold as an experimental kit, to assembled by the
user. High Gravity assumes no responsibility for any damages caused by
operation of this system".

Items such as safety float switches etc. are not offered, yet absolutely
necessary. The heating elements need to be submerged. If they are not
and then energized, they blow (literally).

For their "electric kettle" they simply offer the heating element. What
is absolutely necessary is the means to adjust the amount of power being
applied. Our system can do 15 gallon batches and the 6K watts of power
needs to be turned down considerably once boiling commences because the
boil is so intense. Also, you need to adjust the power to prevent
boil-overs.

Another difference is the sparging method. We use two peristaltic pumps
for the sparge. This ensures a very consistent low flow. It's so
consistent that the liquor addition and run off are exact. This
maintains the level in the mash tun. You can adjust the rate of sparge
by adjusting the speed of the pumps. This allows you to do a 60 minute
sparge, or 90 minute etc.

The system also has three LOVE controllers:

HLT: Set the "strike temperature" and "sparge temperature" by means of
the digital controller. It will maintain that temperature until re-set.

Mash Tun: Will have a heating element under the stainless false bottom.
The system will recirculate during the mash (via one of the peristaltic
pumps) and the LOVE controller will maintain the mash temperature by
controlling the heating element. If you do step mashing, you simply
adjust the LOVE controller to the desired temperatures and it brings it
right to it.

Kettle: Love controller for display (to monitor the chill phase).


So, by the time you add up the High Gravity system parts etc., you will
not be too far off the price for our system and you will get a heck of a
lot more with our system. We're very excited about this one coming out.
Like I had mentioned, I will have some info (photo's, dimensions, etc.)
as early as next week.


----------------
He gave me permission to post this, and it sure is interesting.

Appears that you get what you pay for ..

 

[JVD_X]

I have a concern about the brewmation system: it appears to be made from four flat HDPE pieces welded together which could potentially leave room for bacteria to grow. I may be wrong... when someone actually gets one could your please take some detailed pictures of the corners?

 

[Ecnerwal]

Even if there are crevices at the seams (I doubt it - if they are properly plastic-welded, and they should be at that price, I'd expect none) it's preboil, so a basic cleaning before use should be adequate.

Gah - made me go look.

A bit too automated (6 pumps is absurd). Rather than syncronizing two peristaltics, using a double-tube single-motor peristaltic makes for perfect synch of sparge in and wort out - at less cost. Peristaltics are nice in that they are self-priming and pump gas, liquid or slurries.

Not overdoing the automation would also mean that that same pump could do all the pumping needed, with occasional help from the operator, and 5 less pumps. Later on it could save you from ever needing to siphon.

Love the "deep drawn stainless kettle" - aka, the kitchen sink. Literally.

Of course, you're buying "a system", but for that kind of money you can get into an electric steam kettle from ebay (or used restaurant supply) for your boil pot. Or an electric boiler and a direct steam kettle, and steam heating your mash.

 

[JVD_X]

If you notice I now us a keggle. I set the first plastic one on fire!!!!!

Orfy,

Did you catch the plastic on fire because you let the element run dry?

 

[daborders]

ok Since I've been using my buddies turkey fryer (and a clean new pot) I've been looking for my own. Found one today at one of the several stores going out of business nowadays.
but It's an electric turkey fryer.
Masterbuilt Turkey Fryer
I grabbed it, already has a drain valve. And if anything it should work great for a mini mash as I can hold the temp perfect.

It seems to be 15 degrees off and the lowest setting is 150 F. (actually 135 F) which is perfect for staged mashing.

Any thoughts on why this wouldn't work?

 

[kappclark]

I could see using this for the boil ...even has a drain valve !

I am not seeing anything wrong with this ...

what does the inside look like ?

Why not get another for the HLT ?

 

[Long-Haired_Brewer]

Well here is mine not saying how i made it (but y can probably guess) do not want people killing themselves..... As to the temperatures i am still testing it (mainly because i do not have a thermometer)

(sorry abut the bad images will post more tomorrow...)

 

[kappclark]

I suppose some might object bec of aluminum ...

Mt dad made coffee for yeard in aluminum drip ...must have tasted awful

 

[evanmars]

For those who brew in the basement, how do you deal with the steam/humidity/condensation?

 

[BrewBeemer]

Has anyone located Brewmations calculation chart that show 5, 10, 15 and 20 gallon volumes with diffferent wattage elements and how many minutes it takes to go from a certain temp to boil times? I have seen this chart by them only once in the past and can not locate it again. I would like to keep this calculator chart for future project calculations for wattage numbers to work on different projects. Thanks in advance. Carl........

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

http://suburb.semo.net/jet1024/Electric Heat.xls