Electric HLT thread.

[djt17]

Anyone think this would work for heating a small HLT. I am doing 5 gallon batches so would be heating 3 to 4 gallons of strike or sparge water at a time. Think this might save me some $'s on propane.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BD8JAE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I have a similiar one for the horse's water tank in the winter. I believe the thermostat on these things are set at 34.

 

[gunner11]

I have a similiar one for the horse's water tank in the winter. I believe the thermostat on these things are set at 34.

Thought they might have a thermostat that would limit temp rise. Thanks for the input.

 

[gunner11]

Anyone have any experience using this to heat a HLT or sparge water?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB4UG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Allied Precision 1000W 742G Bucket Heater

Will it get the water to 175F?

 

[Bjornbrewer]

It would get 60* water to 170* in about 80-90 min depending on how well insulated the container is.

For the price you could make a 2000W heater. Probably for cheaper actually.

 

[OMJ]

Anyone have any experience using this to heat a HLT or sparge water?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB4UG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Allied Precision 1000W 742G Bucket Heater

Will it get the water to 175F?

Apparently those things dont work well at all

See this thread I think I remember seeing other threads about how they dont work as well

 

[gunner11]

Thanks for the reply and posting the other thread. I guess I am a little too novice electronically to attempt the heat stick build and do not want to have to install a 220V outlet. Really looking for something just to heat water to 175-180F and run on a standard household GFI outlet. I may just have to stick with propane.

 

[Jawbox0]

Thanks for the reply and posting the other thread. I guess I am a little too novice electronically to attempt the heat stick build and do not want to have to install a 220V outlet. Really looking for something just to heat water to 175-180F and run on a standard household GFI outlet. I may just have to stick with propane.

Seriously, look at the Water Cooler conversions. It is really really really easy, and pretty cheap. For a 5G HLT, you are looking at about $60. With 1500 Watts I can use it in most GFCI sockets, and it gets (5G) water to temp in under an hour.

*5G Cooler: Was $15 at WalMart
*1500W/120V element: $10 or less
*1" Plastic Nut, (<$1) look in the Electrical by the conduit
*Use the Rubber seal that comes with the element
*Machine Bushing (<$1) bring the rubber seal in and get one that fits as tight as you can around it
*Thermometer: $6 mechanical
*Drain: $18 at bargain fittings for a kit, or $10 for ball valve, nipple, Stainless Washers, and elbow
*Extension cord (Check Amp Rating!) $10

I spent about an hour or two putting it together, and there are lots of instructions, like these:

http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/The-Electric-HLT-(or-how-I-built-a-water-heater-in-a-cooler)

 

[gunner11]

Seriously, look at the Water Cooler conversions. It is really really really easy, and pretty cheap. For a 5G HLT, you are looking at about $60. With 1500 Watts I can use it in most GFCI sockets, and it gets (5G) water to temp in under an hour.

*5G Cooler: Was $15 at WalMart
*1500W/120V element: $10 or less
*1" Plastic Nut, (<$1) look in the Electrical by the conduit
*Use the Rubber seal that comes with the element
*Machine Bushing (<$1) bring the rubber seal in and get one that fits as tight as you can around it
*Thermometer: $6 mechanical
*Drain: $18 at bargain fittings for a kit, or $10 for ball valve, nipple, Stainless Washers, and elbow
*Extension cord (Check Amp Rating!) $10

I spent about an hour or two putting it together, and there are lots of instructions, like these:

http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/The-Electric-HLT-(or-how-I-built-a-water-heater-in-a-cooler)

So the 1500W element is about the max for a standard household GFI outlet? I am a real rookie when it comes to working with electricity so I guess that is why I am a little nervous about building something to put in water. I do have a 220V that my clothes dryer plugs into that I could use. Is there anything that I could purchase that is UL approved instead of building one on my own?

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

I will try to post some pics of my "work in progress" dual 2kw heatstick HLT lid this weekend.

4000 watts should get 10 gallons up to temp pretty quick.

 

[Wayne1]

Northern Brewer
offers this

I have never used one and don't know anything about reliability.

It does have a control for variable temps and it also comes with a GFCI.

 

[Bjornbrewer]

with a standard 20 amp household circuit (with GFCI of course) you can run a 2000W heating element no problem. I heat up 10g of sparge water this way and it takes about 90min...start at the beginning of my mash and mash for 90min. works out well for me.

240V (it's not 220 by the way ) isn't nessasary unless you're trying to boil water or heating quickly.

 

[beerFacedotkom]

Can anyone point me to plans for electric HLT using a converted 15 gal keg and 220V is avail as well as piped natural gas. I plan to use gas for boil, electric/electronic control of HL and spathe. No plans yet for heating mash, not in that league yet :-/
Sorry if it's been posted before, I tried searching for a while

 

[kappclark]

240V (it's not 220 by the way ) isn't nessasary unless you're trying to boil water or heating quickly.

Yes - I use 1 1000W 120V bucket heater in a 10G Rubbermaid cooler to prepare strike water.. I set a timer the night before to get the water heated when I come down in AM..takes abt 3 hours..For the sparge water, I re-fill cooler, add a second heater and it is ready in abt 1 hour. I don't boiling with 120 -- I still do that outside on the porch w/propane.

 

[beerFacedotkom]

Well, people refer to it as 240 because I think that's the max it can be. Mine measured around 230V. So I have this vintage Omega PID Controller that has a 1 A triac output. I want to use my 12V DC relay (25A 300v) to switch the 4500W element. Any wisdom you can offer me on how to drive the relay? It'd be great if I could hack into the controller and use the gate signal from the output triac (which should be DC)

 

[Bjornbrewer]

If it's a mechanic relay you have (vs. a solidstate relay), make sure the PID controller has a slow enough cycle time so you don't wear out your relay.

 

[SpartyParty]

Can anyone point me to plans for electric HLT using a converted 15 gal keg and 220V is avail as well as piped natural gas. I plan to use gas for boil, electric/electronic control of HL and spathe. No plans yet for heating mash, not in that league yet :-/
Sorry if it's been posted before, I tried searching for a while

everything you could ever need about electric brewing can be found here at www.theelectricbrewery.com

 

[jsguitar]

Should this thread be moved to the electric part of the forum?