Electric burners - Any builders out there?

[CidahMastah]

haven't brewed in a few weeks.. but planning to soon. I've brewed almost 6 weeks in a row and hit the capacity of my keezer (4 tap). I've got 2 batches waiting for an open spot, hoping to kill a keg this weekend to make some room (if I don't I'll bottle the rest). Then next weekend maybe as a father's day gift to myself, I'll spend the day brewing

Nice.

I just added to my kegs so now I have 14. Right now I have all but 3 in waiting for my 4 keezer (my buddy missed three brew sessions so now I have his portion too). I will admit that my buddy owns 2.5 of the kegs at my place. However it is nice having some pipeline.

 

[bruin_ale]

you have 11 kegs full for a 4 tap keezer? Nice.. I have 9 kegs, but at the rate I'm drinking them I can't justify keeping more than a couple extra in the pipeline. Maybe I should start doing 3 gallon batches so I can go through batches/styles faster. I only brew 5 gallon batches right now because I like the variety.

 

[CidahMastah]

you have 11 kegs full for a 4 tap keezer? Nice.. I have 9 kegs, but at the rate I'm drinking them I can't justify keeping more than a couple extra in the pipeline. Maybe I should start doing 3 gallon batches so I can go through batches/styles faster. I only brew 5 gallon batches right now because I like the variety.

Yeah I am sort of "sharing" my kegs with my buddy (he has yet to get a keg system set up). I brew 10g's with a buddy, so we usually split the batches. However, it doens't make much sense to ever do a 5 gallon because the 10 gallon is the same amount of work. i.e. if my buddy misses a brew day, I end up with 10G of something. He has missed the last 3 brew days. I still gave him splits even though he missed on one of the days - but three missed session! get your priorities straight ha!

My keezer is 2 party taps and one double tower tap that is fed from the basement but on my bar in the living room.

Variety is key

 

[CidahMastah]

Had a question for you guys. Was thinking of adding a dedicated BK. Do you think that a 25 gallon BK would work on a 5500w element? That is, would one element boil 20 ish gallons for a 20 gallon batch?

I was thinking for some of the hefes I do, I would love to brew a 20 batch and split it, or 15g batch at a time. You can put that low ABV brew away pretty fast.

 

[Walker]

My gut tells me that 5500W might hit its limit at 15 gallons. No data to.support this. Just a hunch.

 

[CidahMastah]

Thanks walker - probably better I settle down

 

[CidahMastah]

Just a follow up: Had bought two of those DC SSR's; so I figured what the hell and hooked up the DC while I wait for the new part. Just did a 10G double brew day (20 gallons of brew in 6 hours) with my buddy - was awesome. Nailed the gravities and electric system did the good work I was hoping for. Can't wait to get new BK which will allow for a less run around day (I had to heat the sparge water for the second batch on my kitchen stove). I am thinking i am going to build a gravity fed brew stand this winter.

Good times.

 

[CidahMastah]

Hey guys had a quick question for you (I think).

I was planning on adding on to my electric build since I just recently bought a new 25G bayou classic 18g steel pot for 208 shipped!!

Anyway... I want to have a temp probe in both the HLT and BK. To remind you of my set up, I only have 1 PID. I was thinking that I could simply take the main feed wire on the RTD from the PID and feed it into any basic on - off - on switch (SPDT). That way I can flip from one element to another with power as well as the temp probe without having to disconnect anything.

Here is the probe I have:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=84

I noticed this has three wires on it, so I wondered if there was a special type of switch that has enough terminals to keep the wires distinct. Like a 9 terminal type switch (three pole double throw). I assume anything over 1 amp would work for the switch. Or, if there is an acceptable way to wire these in a standard switch.

I understand that since they are different probes, likely they won't read accurately if I set them up as described above (since I would need to calibrate each one to be accurate). I am willing to accept some error since the HLT will be the accurate one and the BK will be the inaccurate probe. But I like being able to look up at the PID and see a temperature for reference on how long it will be before my boil starts.

Thanks!

 

[Walker]

Hey guys had a quick question for you (I think).

I was planning on adding on to my electric build since I just recently bought a new 25G bayou classic 18g steel pot for 208 shipped!!

Anyway... I want to have a temp probe in both the HLT and BK. To remind you of my set up, I only have 1 PID. I was thinking that I could simply take the main feed wire on the RTD from the PID and feed it into any basic on - off - on switch (SPDT). That way I can flip from one element to another with power as well as the temp probe without having to disconnect anything.

Here is the probe I have:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=84

I noticed this has three wires on it, so I wondered if there was a special type of switch that has three terminals in the SPDT fashion. Or, if there is an acceptable way to wire these in a standard switch.

One concern I have is that since they are different probes, likely they won't read accurately if I set them up as described above (since I would need to calibrate each one to be accurate). I am willing to accept some error, but any suggestions would be great if you have any.

Thanks!

The "SP" part of "SPDT" means "single pole". You want a switch with three poles so that you can switch three wires instead of one. You need a "3PDT" switch.

And, yes, you will likely have errors unless you get lucky enough to get two probes with the exact same error offset.

I assume your BK probe is just for monitoring temps during chilling? if so, I would set your PID to be accurate when the HLT probe is selected and just note what error that gives you on the BK probe and manually account for that BK probe error when chilling.

 

[CidahMastah]

Thanks Walker - I was sort of figuring it out (made some edits to my original post... but you wre too fast!) and found this switch:

http://www.micromark.com/Toggle-Switch-3-Pole-Double-Throw,8424.html

I think this will do the trick. I think the hardest part for this one is... getting it locally. I will probably grab a few of these suckers because I haven't seen any of these types of switches available at radio shack or similar. Will likely pay more for shipping an the switch!

And yes you are right - probe in BK for chilling and estimated time to start of boil. With the new pot though... won't have to worry about boil overs!


Thanks!

 

[Walker]

If you can stand to wait for it, you can get them on ebay for cheaper ($2.85 + free shipping). Shipped from China.

 

[Walker]

With the new pot though... won't have to worry about boil overs!

Famous last words. I have (on multiple occasions) boiled over a 5 gallon batch in a 15 gallon kettle.

 

[CidahMastah]

Checking ebay and seeing what I can stir up! I wish I could find one with screw terminals, but I bet the business end of that switch would be huge with 9 terminals! Soldering here I come.

So I guess I am just buying insurance with the higher rim on the new pot then

Right now on a 13 gallon boil I get some slop up out of the kettle here and there, for 90 minute boils (14G) I have to do a very low boil and watch it (cover the element junction box with a towel), or add in a gallon after 30 minutes.

 

[Walker]

Checking ebay and seeing what I can stir up! I wish I could find one with screw terminals, but I bet the business end of that switch would be huge with 9 terminals! Soldering here I come.

All the ones I see are being described as "mini toggle switches", which means they are going to be small and you are going to have some fine soldering work to do.

 

[CidahMastah]

All the ones I see are being described as "mini toggle switches", which means they are going to be small and you are going to have some fine soldering work to do.

I think I will go with a couple of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120731605230?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I just have a basic solder tool with three little adapters, so I am sure it will be a bit tricky.

In a few weeks I will be near having all I need for a rack set up! Of course I am sure I will want to add a PID and more power so I can run the HLT and BK at the same time in 6 months ha

Thanks for the help!

 

[CidahMastah]

This is kind of cool - might try to find these at Home depot:

http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page80.html

They aren't cheap, but they look like they would make the connection very easy

(update): About $5.69 at home depot will get you 12-15 of these guys.

 

[CidahMastah]

Cost to Electrify (with RTD temp probe), ball valve a pot ($176.00)

ELECTRIFY ($136.00):
5500 Element/gang cover and JB weld with plates: $45
10/3 wire (10ft)/washer dryer plug/terminal rings: $26
RTD probe with 10ft extra wire: $50
Misc hardware: $15

Ball valve:$40

Pot: $208 (bayou classic 102qt 18.25W x 21H 18g 304 Stainless)

Cost to buy a pot, electrify and ball valve it = ~ $384


cost of tools not included

 

[Walker]

Cost to Electrify (with RTD temp probe), ball valve a pot ($176.00)

ELECTRIFY ($136.00):
5500 Element/gang cover and JB weld with plates: $45
10/3 wire (10ft)/washer dryer plug/terminal rings: $26
RTD probe with 10ft extra wire: $50
Misc hardware: $15

Ball valve:$40

Pot: $208 (bayou classic 102qt 18.25W x 21H 18g 304 Stainless)

Cost to buy a pot, electrify and ball valve it = ~ $384


cost of tools not included

You just keeping records for your specific build here or something, cause I know you can do it cheaper than this.

 

[CidahMastah]

You just keeping records for your specific build here or something, cause I know you can do it cheaper than this.

Yeah I am sure you can do it cheaper, but this is using my impatient buying style for electrical stuff

How much cheaper do you think you could get that price down though? Stuff like the elements and electrical components i ball parked from memory, so I am sure I am a little high (my element was attached via 2 gang box like in electric brewery). Do you have actual excel sheets that are more accurate than my memory? - it wouldn't take much... :cross:

I bet the probe could be done much cheaper - but I really like that detachable probe... I did go with the most expensive ball valve from bargain fittings (3piece weldless SS).

 

[Walker]

bulkhead + brass ball valve and a 1/2" weldless thermo fitting for a probe and an element nut with o-ring from bargain fittings would come to $35 (shipping included).

RTD can be gotten on ebay, shipped, for $24. A piece of old phone or cat5 cable is free.

Element is $17 local.

We're at about $75 there.

I use pvc coupling and JB weld to pot the element. That's another $6 locally.

Dryer cord = $10.

Call it $100.

edit: a three-pin XLR quick connector on ebay is like $1.50 to make the probe pluggable/unpluggable.

 

[CidahMastah]

I would say my numbers are inflated, but not that off for my build. I definitely have a few more frills (SS ball valve, etc) in there that could be supplemented with less costly, equally efficient options. Part of that was inexperience. the other part is now that I have one built that way, I decided to replicate the build to match the first kettle for easier sparing.

I would be more than willing to chalk up about $75 bucks to buying stuff online, and my not knowing good safe substitutions as you described above. Kals junction box method is definitely more costly than your solution.

 

[CidahMastah]

I also have to continue to give you thanks. This past weekend I taxed the system pretty good. Did three 11G batches (Oatmeal Stout, Nick Danger Porter and SA Summer Ale -brother coming in from seattle and sister's wedding Oct 1-). The system cranked along though 60-90-60 minute boils and heating strike water. It was awesome and worth every penny. Just makes the brewing so enjoyable.

 

[CidahMastah]

Just got word that my new 100qt megapot showed up at the door. Looks like electric element install will be going on tonight!

 

[CidahMastah]

And with good news come bad... Is it really that people can't put out a good product anymore? Bought the megapot from AHS and I get it and:

1. it has some rust on it (pics 1, 2)
2. someone has apparently tried so scuff off the rust with an abrasive pad.. which left some lasting evidence.
3. there are random scratch and superficial dings (pic 3)
4. there is a weird malformed defect in the pots base, two dents or warped metal about a nickel big, and a quarter big (pic 4)

I have some decent sized mits too so those aren't tiny (that is my index finger).


WTF... was this someone's returned pot that I got sent. Now I get to wait another 5 business days for the 'effin pot. Austin Home Brew Supply just went down a big tick on my list.....

I don't mind ugly stuff, but I better be the one to make it ugly if I am buying it new. Now I am not sure if I want to grab my march pumps from AHS!

Time to have some home brew and chill the ---- out....

 

[CidahMastah]

Ok so autotuning question.

Has anybody successfully autotune one of the auberin PIDs? I tried autotuning mine for the first time this past weekend and I did like walker had suggested:

1. let heat up to getting close to your desired temp, turn autotune on and let it rock.

I turned autotune on and it overshot the desired temp and brought it to a boil. After a while I got tired of seeing the flashing at and decided I would give it a shot at a later date.

Anybody with success on this please tell me about how long it took for you to do it. I let mine run for quite a while.

I was going to check the flow of current coming out on the exit of the SSR (should have been turning off), but I didn't have the box open so I resolved to redo this later.

 

[P-J]

For auto tune you need to be at least 10° below your set point. Then set it and forget it until it finishes. You should also do this with approximately the same volume of water that you will be using on your brew day.

 

[CidahMastah]

For auto tune you need to be at least 10° below your set point. Then set it and forget it until it finishes. You should also do this with approximately the same volume of water that you will be using on your brew day.

Thanks PJ - I am adding a new BK and was thinking I would attempt this again when I did a wet test on the new larger BK. I think I was about 8F lower than needed or so. But I will give it a larger window for the next time around.

 

[CidahMastah]

Ok I need a little help gents.

I bought a 60 amp GFI breaker, but unfortunately I bought based on the naming convention and was duped. I previously bought a QO230GFI (square D QO). I recently bought the incorrect QO260GFI in the hopes of upgrading to have the ability to simultaneously run two 5500w elements. Unfortunately this breaker does't have a neutral terminal to carry a load out for 120v items (i.e. I can't use it for my control panel).

I am hoping to get some help from you guys regarding the best workaround or replacement.

My current set up is I have dedicated #6 line running from my load center to a subpanel in my basement. I have already installed the panel and ran the wire so I don't want to go the route of a spa panel.

I am considering the following:

1. Putting in a 2pole 60 amp breaker at the load center and buying another 30amp gfi breaker so I have 2 30 amp gfi breakers in my subpanel, and will be able to run two elements off that.

Does this seem the best route? is there any way around doing it this way? i.e. a way to use that 60amp gfi?

any ideas or suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks!

 

[Walker]

I am not quite following your plan.

If you put the 60A breaker (without neutral) in your main panel.... where is that then going to feed to? The sub panel?

And in the subpanel, you have two separate 30A GFCI breakers (with neutrals)?

 

[Walker]

After a second reading.....

You want to put a NORMAL 60A breaker in the main panel and feed the subpanel with it, and then use two 30A GFCI breakers in the subpanel to power your brewery.

That should work fine.