Mongoose's dew point comments are possibly misleading. You are not concerned with the dew point temperature of the room - that is the temperature which the moisture in the ambient room will condense out (air has reached saturation). Problem is steam is already saturated, that is, at its dew point or darn near it. So any cooling (or pressure reductions) at all causes condensation, hence liquid build-up and drips.
The dew point you're concerned with is the temperature of the items (fan, ductwork, hood) that the moisture-saturated air comes in contact with. Perhaps that wasn't clear in my post, but that's the key.
It doesn't matter a whit what the air is--it matters whether the equipment temperature is below the dew point of that air. If the dew point of the air is higher, it means the equipment must be warmer in order to avoid condensation.
I have a nearly super-insulated house (well, 2/3 there

) that is so tight I have to mechanically ventilate it with an air-to-air heat exchange ventilator. By design, I might add--I had the house built, insulated and sealed it myself.
I control the humidity in the house by how much I run it the air exchanger, and depending on the temps outside, I may need to drop the inside humidity so I don't get condensation on the windows. When it's below zero, I have to take the inside humidity to an indicated 34-36 percent (I have a meter, not sure it's accurate, but it shows relative values which is all I need).
When it warms up outside, I can let the inside figure rise to 40 or 42, and I won't get window condensation.
The key point is what the temperature of the window glass is. If it's low enough, you'll get condensation. It's the temp of the glass in conjunction with the inside humidity that is the combination that produces condensation--or not.