Electric brewery plans - need help

SSBrew - 728
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I've found that running hot wort into a 50' 1/2" coil submerged into a keggle filled with ice doesn't have the thermal absorption necessary for 10 gallons of boiling wort. I believe the temperatures equalize somewhere around 100 deg F. The addition of an immersion chiller in the brew kettle will help, but I'd run that immersion chiller until it takes most of the heat out, then switch to the iced coil.
 
klyph said:
I've found that running hot wort into a 50' 1/2" coil submerged into a keggle filled with ice doesn't have the thermal absorption necessary for 10 gallons of boiling wort. I believe the temperatures equalize somewhere around 100 deg F. The addition of an immersion chiller in the brew kettle will help, but I'd run that immersion chiller until it takes most of the heat out, then switch to the iced coil.
Click to expand...

Or build/buy a CFC. :) (unless your tap water temp is above pitching temp...)

I love my CFC!

TB
 
devilbrewer75 said:
What gallon mark does the top of your herms coil come to?
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Tiber_Brew said:
Hmmm...I want to say 13 or 14, but I'd have to check when I get home to be sure. I'm brewing 10 gallons of Koelsch tomorrow, so I will have a definite answer by then.

TB
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I brewed again today and checked; the top of the HERMS coil is exactly at the 13.75 gal mark.

TB
 
OK, I've gathered more receipts and invoices recently, and will start ad
PHP:
ding them to my current parts list. I know I've been asked for the PL several times, and I apologize for not getting this thrown together sooner!

With the addition of my 5th (nitrogen) tap, and the holidays, I've been pretty busy lately. PL coming soon!

TB
 
Tiber_Brew said:
OK, I've gathered more receipts and invoices recently, and will start ad
PHP:
ding them to my current parts list. I know I've been asked for the PL several times, and I apologize for not getting this thrown together sooner!

With the addition of my 5th (nitrogen) tap, and the holidays, I've been pretty busy lately. PL coming soon!

TB
Click to expand...

Looking forward to it.
 
Thanks to your build (and a few others), I now have a new one. But now I have no beer left, can you help me with this problem? It is very obvious I was not brewing for a few weeks and now I am staring at my last 12oz bottle of amber ale brewed over 2 months ago.

Thanks for the help, with any luck I'll be going more electric this next year with your help again. The propane just is too damn expensive ($30 for 6.5 gallons yesterday).
 
Parts list is finally up!

Hopefully I didn't forget anything. Feel free to PM me with any questions or if you think I missed anything.

(I did omit the powder coating for the stand since I haven't gotten that done yet, but the quote I got was about $40.)

Cheers,
TB
 
Tiber_Brew said:
Parts list is finally up!

Hopefully I didn't forget anything. Feel free to PM me with any questions or if you think I missed anything.

(I did omit the powder coating for the stand since I haven't gotten that done yet, but the quote I got was about $40.)

Cheers,
TB
Click to expand...

TB,

Thanks for the parts list, very helpful!!! (It's on the first page if you are looking for it). https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/electric-brewery-plans-need-help-183775/Thanks. All the best. Cheers.:mug:
 
Nice list! You may want to include a list of what's not included so that people know what they need to supply. (Kegs or kettles for example).

Kal
 
kal said:
Nice list! You may want to include a list of what's not included so that people know what they need to supply. (Kegs or kettles for example).

Kal
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Good idea, Kal. At first I thought something like kettles would have several options, and leave that out. I also got mine from a friend, and the price I paid might not be typical. I don't want to encourage stealing kegs, either. I think I'll put them in the list anyway, just to be thorough. You might also notice that I didn't include part numbers. That was a tough decision, but it would've taken even longer, and frankly I just don't have that kind of time right now. So, I figure if anyone wants to know a specific part I used, I could try to provide a link.

Again, thanks for all your help!

TB
 
Tiber_Brew said:
Good idea, Kal. At first I thought something like kettles would have several options, and leave that out. I also got mine from a friend, and the price I paid might not be typical. I don't want to encourage stealing kegs, either. I think I'll put them in the list anyway, just to be thorough. You might also notice that I didn't include part numbers. That was a tough decision, but it would've taken even longer, and frankly I just don't have that kind of time right now. So, I figure if anyone wants to know a specific part I used, I could try to provide a link.

Again, thanks for all your help!

TB
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No need to list them. Just list what isn't included so that it's clear.

IMHO, it's confusing now because someone looks at the picture of your complete setup, then sees a long parts list called "Tiber's electric brewery parts list", and then sees $2000. So they incorrectly think "I can build Tiber's electric brewery that I see in the picture for $2000".

What isn't clear is that it doesn't include kegs, the stand, chiller (?), and possibly other parts.

Of course, anyone going down the list carefully will soon realize that not everything in the picture is listed. ;)

It may make more sense to call it a "Tiber's parts list to convert from gas to electric" since isn't that what it is?

Kal
 
The stand is in the PL, listed as raw material since I welded it myself. The chiller probably should be on PL, so I'll put down that cost. I think I'll mention the kegs too, and put an estimated average for cost.

This isn't a gas-to-electric build, though, as I didn't use anything from my gas setup for this rig. I should make this more clear, so thank you for pointing this out Kal! Your attention to detail is keen, my friend! :)

TB

EDIT: damn! Somehow the steel tubing for the stand was removed from the PL! I will get that back on there...

EDIT: on second look, the steel tubing WAS listed. Chiller and kegs added
 
Updated parts list added to original post

The kegs and chiller are added now. I made the chiller myself and never tallied the exact total of all the materials, but I estimated it to be around $50 worth.

Cheers guys,
TB

:mug:
 
sjvicker said:
What is the purpose of the fuse and resistors on the 120V line of the e-stop?
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The panel is fed from a GFCI mains breaker. The circuit is an E-Stop that provides a leakage current from phase 2 (120V) to equipment ground. The resistors limit the leakage current to 0.06 amps which is enough to trip the GFCI. The 1 amp fuse is there to protect the E-Stop wiring.

The circuit is designed as a true E-Stop as it will kill all power to the brewery panel. It has the exact same effect and result as pressing the test button on the GFCI but it is located within easy reach of the brewery.

Hope this helps.
 
I guess I'm still having a hard time understanding it. I understand connecting 120v Pos to ground pops the e-stop but I can't figure out why the resistors are necessary. Is limiting the amperage easier on the GFCI?
 
sjvicker said:
I guess I'm still having a hard time understanding it. I understand connecting 120v Pos to ground pops the e-stop but I can't figure out why the resistors are necessary. Is limiting the amperage easier on the GFCI?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the panel is fed from a 50 amp breaker. If you short a hot to ground without limiting the current flow (with the use of the resistors) it will try to draw all the current possible (50 amps). Granted this would be for a split second as the GFCI trips, however, you run a severe risk of destroying the E-Stop switch contacts and possibly the wiring. I do not think this is a good idea. BTW, the 1 amp fuse is in place to protect the wiring which would typically be #18 in that example.
 
Just finished reading this thread..great job Tiber, and all the contributors! I have only brewed twice, but I am already hooked, and going electric seems like a no-brainer. It will be a few months before I get all my parts together, as a couple of house remodeling projects, daughters wedding, two overseas trips are just around the corner. I will start a thread when I get going.

Thanks again for the work that went into this thread, and happy brewing!

Mike
 
Thanks for the compliments, Mike. I'm glad you like the build. I couldn't be happier with the results.

When you start your project, you'll find that there are plenty of knowledgeable contributors willing to help.

Cheers,
TB
 
P-J said:
Tiber_Brew,

I spent a little time tonight and reworked the drawing to reflect some of the things that you are dealing with. It now shows the PIDs that you are using:



(Click on the image to see a full scale picture)

Please let me know of any other changes that you would like to see.

EDIT: By the way - the large image is setup and formatted to print on a 11" X 17" sheet.
Click to expand...

What software is used to generate these drawings? Thanks.
 
Spartan1979 said:
What software is used to generate these drawings? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I use Microsoft Image Composer. BTW - the program is no longer available unless you have an old copy of Microsofr Office. The diagrams are made up from bits and pieces plus pictures of the devices. I'm sure it would be a real PITA for most but I can make a very accurate diagram with it that is easy to follow.
 
I've read the entire thread, and I've read Kal's build several times. The thing I'm wondering most about is the breakers in the CP. Kal's doesn't have anything like that (I don't think). What is the idea behind that, isn't it redundant from the breakers in the main panel?
 
The internal breakers are an added safety measure. The breaker in the main panel is 50A, but there are 15A and 25A breakers inside my control panel to help protect the individual circuits in the enclosure. They are meant more to protect property than life. The GFCI in the main panel is what can really save the brewer.

TB
 
I am in the build process and am thinking about using my old IC as my herms coil it is 25' x 3/8" od and throttling the flow a little. Does anyone see a problem with this idea?
 
drbobdc said:
I am in the build process and am thinking about using my old IC as my herms coil it is 25' x 3/8" od and throttling the flow a little. Does anyone see a problem with this idea?
Click to expand...

In my estimation it would work, but as you said, it would reduce your flow rate and therefore increase lag time in temperature changes between your HERMS and your mash. 25 ft of 1/2" copper tubing isn't that expensive, or difficult to work with, so if you can swing a 1/2" coil, I would.

Hope your build goes well.
TB
 
Tiber_Brew said:
Thanks for the heads up, Ed.

If this becomes an issue, there are ways I can deal with it, including installing a fan with a vent if necessary. This would more likely, if at all, be an issue with back to back brew sessions in my estimation.

I'll keep this in mind.

TB
Click to expand...

Hey man I hope all is well....working on my build more now and was wondering if you have had any issues with heat in your box? I am planning on mounting my SSR's and heat sinks similar to yours.

I was also curious on how you cut the holes for your PID's and 110 outlets for the pumps? Thanks in advance.
 

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