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EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts

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I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?
 
I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?

Have the controller send the signal to a Solid State Relay (SSR) that is rated for your total power consumption. That way the SSR sees the electricity... not the controller.
Jump over to the Electric Brewing sub forum here on HBT...
 
I made something similar to this and it works great for my fermentation fridge. I tried to use it with my electric kettle and it fried it. I guess there was too much load with my 3x1500w elements. Is there a way to do this to control the kettle without all that power going through it and overloading it?

No kidding! 1500w = apx 13.6A. Even just one element would destroy the controller (I think it's rated at 10A if my old brain is still working).

MC
 
I knew there must have been some magical device you guys were all using to make this happen. I now know this magic has a name: Solid State Relay. Thanks. Gonna hafta get me one.
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
You should be able to get that controller a bit more flush with the plate... mine sits perfectly flush. I did NOT reuse the small protector plate from the controller.

MC

I did leave the protector on. I will try it removing it tonight.
 
I mentioned about a page or so back how the Ebay seller I was dealing with sent me a 220V STC-1000 instead of the 120V. Well I finally got my replacement in the mail.... a Paint Zoom...?


Sigh.

PaintZoom.jpg
 
Snicks said:
I mentioned about a page or so back how the Ebay seller I was dealing with sent me a 220V STC-1000 instead of the 120V. Well I finally got my replacement in the mail.... a Paint Zoom...?

Sigh.

Seller had good feedback?
 
You can find these so cheap, I would order more than one. Mine were about $25 a piece when I ordered. I actually need to place another order in case I need to replace a unit.

It would be trouble if either one of my controllers went out and I did not have a backup.

Fermentation chamber and keezer.
 
I need some help. I have a Cooper gfci outlet I got from home depot. I have wired it up correctly I am sure, it's only 3 wires and I'm not hooked up to the load connections..when I plug in the controller everything turns on, the temp controller works. Nothing is plugged into the outlets, then like 20 seconds later the actual house breaker trips and everything goes off until I reset it in the garage. I thought the gfci outlet itself is supposed to trip the button in the outlet? I don't understand why it's tripping my entire circuit...
 
I need some help. I have a Cooper gfci outlet I got from home depot. I have wired it up correctly I am sure, it's only 3 wires and I'm not hooked up to the load connections..when I plug in the controller everything turns on, the temp controller works. Nothing is plugged into the outlets, then like 20 seconds later the actual house breaker trips and everything goes off until I reset it in the garage. I thought the gfci outlet itself is supposed to trip the button in the outlet? I don't understand why it's tripping my entire circuit...

I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.

From here:

Nuisance tripping:

Supply Voltage:
  • Variations in supply voltage.
  • Long distance between control panel and main power at property. Induced current into the neutral wire. Soil pH levels.
  • A local ground take at the control panel usually eliminates this problem. Also, distances over 250' on the load side of the GFCI breaker can cause nuisance tripping.

Unbalanced, intermitant loads:

On 240v units, check for unbalanced loads on the power line. These unbalanced loads (refrigerators, Air conditioners, ect) switching on and off can cause the GFCI breaker to trip randomly.

MC
 
I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.

From here:



MC


Well the thing is, i dont even have the freezer plugged in...with nothing plugged into it, its tripping the circuit. I am 100% sure i dont have the hot wire wrong...its pretty hard to mess up theres a giant engraving on the back that says "WHITE WIRE" and the other one says "HOT WIRE" and on the bottom it has the sticker covering the LOAD connections. I may just go get a standard outlet...
 
I'm not an electrician... But my guess would be that you reversed the load and the neutral, OR that you shouldn't be running a fridge on a GFCI, as it's an unbalanced load.

I've had problems with refrigerators in the garage on a wall-GFCI as well. I reverted to a non-GFCI wall outlet.....
A fridge or freezer should function perfectly fine on a GFCI outlet or circuit. If the GFCI is tripping it is because there is leakage current to ground, which should never be designed into an appliance and therefore means something has failed electrically.

Well the thing is, i dont even have the freezer plugged in...with nothing plugged into it, its tripping the circuit. I am 100% sure i dont have the hot wire wrong...its pretty hard to mess up theres a giant engraving on the back that says "WHITE WIRE" and the other one says "HOT WIRE" and on the bottom it has the sticker covering the LOAD connections. I may just go get a standard outlet...
Post a photo of your wiring and someone will provide feedback as to what may be wired incorrectly.

Of course, you MAY have a bad gfci outlet.

Another possibility is that the outlet/circuit that you're plugging all this into has a problem.
 
Can you plug a GFCI into a GFCI? Are you?

I was, i am unsure if thats what was broken?

Regardless i just went to Home Depot and bought a $3 20 Amp regular plug and followed the instructions and it works perfectly the first time.

Not sure what was going on with the GFCI outlet, i will probably take it back since it was like $16 and seems faulty.

Now im trying to figure out what the best settings for the Delta and Compressor delay should be so that i dont tax my freezer too much turning it on and off.
Also related to settings, what should i set my freezer too? Since it has a dial 1-7, 7 being the "warmest" and 1 being the coldest setting, 7 is still like -10F at the bottom, when set to 1 its something ridiculous like -40F...my thought was to use 7, to save on power and in theory even though im using water in a cup get my temp, it should prevent it from overshooting too cold like setting it to the 1 setting would?

Hopefully that makes sense lol
 
Set the compressor delay to the max (10 min). It doesn't matter what you set the freezer to since you'll be overriding it's thermostat. The differential is up to you. Even at the min 0.3 C, it shouldn't cycle too often as long as you don't run it empty.
 
Set the compressor delay to the max (10 min). It doesn't matter what you set the freezer to since you'll be overriding it's thermostat. The differential is up to you. Even at the min 0.3 C, it shouldn't cycle too often as long as you don't run it empty.

I wouldn't set it to such a tight setting as 0.3C UNLESS you are using a thermowell. 0.3C swing is extremely quick to reach if the sensor is not protected, and even if protected by a paper towel, etc. A small piece of styrofoam over the sensor, and taped over the carboy should help.

I set mine at 1.0C and it does a fine job.

MC
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
I wouldn't set it to such a tight setting as 0.3C UNLESS you are using a thermowell. 0.3C swing is extremely quick to reach if the sensor is not protected, and even if protected by a paper towel, etc. A small piece of styrofoam over the sensor, and taped over the carboy should help.

I set mine at 1.0C and it does a fine job.

MC

He's placing the sensor in a container of water, which should provide plenty of thermal mass to prevent short cycling, even with a 0.3C differential.
 
Built my second one. First time in an enclosure. Black hidden screw faceplate had its challenges and wants to pop loose at times. A little cyanoacrylate will take care of that later. I left the mounting tabs on it for now. Who knows, I might want to decorate it somehow.

image-573795148.jpg
 
Jeepinjeepin,

That looks awesome! I hope to build two just like that. Any tricks you can share for that exact build? I see square shaped switch plate, looks like the one without the beveled edge, outlet box and anything else? Great job!
 
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