EBay fish tank controller build using Wal-mart parts

[CGVT]

Hong Kong. It was cheapest. It showed up in less than two weeks

 

[shmEk]

where did you purchase yours? there are two sellers that i found on ebay. one seller is in hong kong and the other one is in canada. or did you purchase your from someone in the states?

I am betting the Canadian's are made in China, so no matter - I would take whatever is cheapest. Make sure you get STC-1000 and 110v (or 220v depending on your location).

I caught the diff between the 110v and 220v units luckily, but I was dumb enough to think I found a great deal and pulled the trigger on a single stage when I was wanting a dual stage controller(ST-1000). Now, I'll have both once I get done, so I guess that's good My Kegerator really should have its own and a single stage will be fine on it.

 

[PricePeeler]

Well, can't get my controller to power heat or cool side. I have attempted to reverse wiring for heat and cool with no change (white/blk) vs (blk/white)
I have the controller programmed, heat light and both cool light turn on as programmed, but no power sent to designated cord. I do realize there is a compressor delay when cool light flashes.
Going to hook up and program back up controller. Will report back.

 

[Tinga]

Well, can't get my controller to power heat or cool side. I have attempted to reverse wiring for heat and cool with no change (white/blk) vs (blk/white)
I have the controller programmed, heat light and both cool light turn on as programmed, but no power sent to designated cord. I do realize there is a compressor delay when cool light flashes.
Going to hook up and program back up controller. Will report back.

did you remember to break the jumper cable?

 

[PricePeeler]

Not, sure. Are you telling me that I can't just wire the power cord b/w directly into the cool connections, and heater cord b/w directly into the heat connections?

 

[Tinga]

Not, sure. Are you telling me that I can't just wire the power cord b/w directly into the cool connections, and heater cord b/w directly into the heat connections?

correct. There are jumpers that make it so that if power is provided to one of the outlets both of the outlets have power. In order to make the outlets operate separately you need to break the jumper tab as pictured in post #3 the 3rd picture you can see that the jumper on the side without the ground post has been broken so that the controller can power the outlets separately.

 

[PricePeeler]

I realized what I was thinking after my post, just competed the wiring and all works great. Thanks!

 

[jiggs_casey]

I just happened to skim through this thread not really knowing anything about it except that I have seen the thread title before. That being said, I thought it would be cool to get into lagering. Obviously, I will need to control my temp. I don't tinker much with electronics or temperature controllers so, I want to make sure I have my head wrapped around how this thing works...

Let's say I just put one of these controllers together. Could I... Buy a small stand alone freezer, bore a hole into the side, mount a fan where the hole is, plug the fan into the 'hot' side of this controller, plug the freezer into the 'cold' side, set my temp, drop my probe into my wort and go?

 

[Tinga]

I just happened to skim through this thread not really knowing anything about it except that I have seen the thread title before. That being said, I thought it would be cool to get into lagering. Obviously, I will need to control my temp. I don't tinker much with electronics or temperature controllers so, I want to make sure I have my head wrapped around how this thing works...

Let's say I just put one of these controllers together. Could I... Buy a small stand alone freezer, bore a hole into the side, mount a fan where the hole is, plug the fan into the 'hot' side of this controller, plug the freezer into the 'cold' side, set my temp, drop my probe into my wort and go?

I suppose that would work. However, boring holes into fridges might not be the best idea since the coolant lines may be ruptured and then the fridge would be useless. also I dont know if the fridge would be efficient to control lagering temps with a large hole in the side.

there are cheaper models that are single stage though. If the sole purpose of this chamber is to lager in your house a single stage may be a better option than the dual stage. Since lagering temps are far below room temp you would most likely not need to heat it just cool it.

 

[Cimerian]

I just happened to skim through this thread not really knowing anything about it except that I have seen the thread title before. That being said, I thought it would be cool to get into lagering. Obviously, I will need to control my temp. I don't tinker much with electronics or temperature controllers so, I want to make sure I have my head wrapped around how this thing works...

Let's say I just put one of these controllers together. Could I... Buy a small stand alone freezer, bore a hole into the side, mount a fan where the hole is, plug the fan into the 'hot' side of this controller, plug the freezer into the 'cold' side, set my temp, drop my probe into my wort and go?

NO not at all. DO not do this. In a freezer the coolant lines are all around the entire box of the freezer. The lid is the only safe area to drill. Easiest way is just get the small chest freezer and use an external controller. The probe for the controller drops down inside the freezer and turns power on and off for the freezer as needed. Very very easy to wire up one of these controllers and they cost about 50 bucks to add on.

 

[jiggs_casey]

I suppose that would work. However, boring holes into fridges might not be the best idea since the coolant lines may be ruptured and then the fridge would be useless. also I dont know if the fridge would be efficient to control lagering temps with a large hole in the side.

there are cheaper models that are single stage though. If the sole purpose of this chamber is to lager in your house a single stage may be a better option than the dual stage. Since lagering temps are far below room temp you would most likely not need to heat it just cool it.

Sweet... That's more or less the answer I needed. I just wanted to make sure I had an understanding of how the controller works. I really don't have any plans on running out and buying a freezer that I could do this with... yet anyway...

Thanks!

 

[jiggs_casey]

NO not at all. DO not do this. In a freezer the coolant lines are all around the entire box of the freezer. The lid is the only safe area to drill. Easiest way is just get the small chest freezer and use an external controller. The probe for the controller drops down inside the freezer and turns power on and off for the freezer as needed. Very very easy to wire up one of these controllers and they cost about 50 bucks to add on.

Actually, I have a really small refrigerator (just big enough for a couple of 12 pak's), that isn't being used for anything. I'm thinking I can find a way to work the guts of it into a working fermentation chamber. I'll have to see if I can dig the guts out of it.

 

[Hoosier-Brewer]

Actually, I have a really small refrigerator (just big enough for a couple of 12 pak's), that isn't being used for anything. I'm thinking I can find a way to work the guts of it into a working fermentation chamber. I'll have to see if I can dig the guts out of it.

Sure you can, search here and you should find a couple of threads where this was done.

 

[bcrderrick]

Could I some how wire in a extra socket for a fan off of the same extension chord? Having four outlets instead of just two. Two being for the controller and two at constant power? If so could you guys give me help on wiring it in??
Thanks

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Could I some how wire in a extra socket for a fan off of the same extension chord? Having four outlets instead of just two. Two being for the controller and two at constant power? If so could you guys give me help on wiring it in??
Thanks

You could use a 3-gang outlet and simply jump from one outlet to the next.

MC

 

[bloodonblood]

Another thread said that the 16 gauge wire would get hot during use. Do you find that to be true?

 

[CGVT]

I don't. 16 ga has been fine.

 

[jeepinjeepin]

At 110vac 16ga should handle right around 13A. This project is fused at 10A. 14ga gives you a little extra insurance at 17A for about the same money. 12ga should carry 23A at 110vac. That is a little overkill for this. My controller is on the way. I will likely use 14ga.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

I don't. 16 ga has been fine.

I used a 16 gauge wire in one version, and I hooked up a small space heater on the lowest setting. The supply wire got hot enough that I decided to switch to 14ga. While 16 gauge may be enough for the low-running draw of a fridge, it would not consider it to be safe for a small space heater.

I would NOT recommend 16 gauge wire.

MC

 

[bloodonblood]

Will the 16 gauge run a small hair dryer without issues?

 

[jeepinjeepin]

Will the 16 gauge run a small hair dryer without issues?

A small one on low? Maybe. You need to know the wattage to figure it out. Watts / Voltage = Amperage

 

[heckels]

EPIC FAIL! So I just used this for the first time yesterday. I had set the outlets up to run both for heating and cooling. Bad idea.

I had a belgian wit in my 60F craw space with a brew belt attached. Unfortunately the brew belt could not get up to my desired 72F. So, I added a heating pad underneath and the temps started going up. Great!

My wife and I then went out for the evening. When we got home I forgot to check in on the fermenter until 7 this AM. When I checked it the temp was over 82F! Evidently, when the temp hit the desired temp, the fermenter kept warming up. The temp controller then kicked into cooling mode and kicked the warmers back on an up she went.

Lesson: Have dedicated outlets for heating and cooling. I haven't given it a taste yet but I suspect I have a banana beer.

 

[G-Hog]

I put this setup in my fermentation chamber today. It's a mini fridge with a small 200 watt personal heater. I went with 16 gauge wire because the heater is rated at 2 amps. The heater is a Lasko My Heat Personal heater I got at WalMart for $11. I filled my fermentation bucket up with 5 gallons of water and put it in the chamber to test everything out, and so far the temp is holding at 63-65 degrees. It's in my garage and the temp in there was about 55 degrees today and it's a little colder tonight. I think this is gonna work out great.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Lesson: Have dedicated outlets for heating and cooling. I haven't given it a taste yet but I suspect I have a banana beer.

Review this picture from the original write-up:

MC

 

[tulsabrewdaddy]

I just wired this up and am getting both outlets with power when the heat is on and both work when the cool is on. Can someone please help???

 

[KuntyBrew]

Break the tab between the screws in the pic

 

[BraxtonBrewery]

Can anyone reassure me that I purcahsed the correct Temp controller, Im having some issues.

 

[Huaco]

What voltage does the wiring diagram say? That will tell you if you have the 120V or the 240V

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Can anyone reassure me that I purcahsed the correct Temp controller, Im having some issues.

That's the STC-1000. That's the right one.

MC

 

[BraxtonBrewery]

What voltage does the wiring diagram say? That will tell you if you have the 120V or the 240V

I have seen some say 220 and they are the correct one. I believe mine does but it is a STC1000 so it should be the correct one.