Easy & Cheap Stainless Vent Hood

[steveoatley]

You must contact Walter White for this setup...

Here is what i came up with.
Allows me to move the fan up about 10 inches
In the "low" position it is about Eye height to me
So I don't walk into it every time i am Not brewing - i wanted to be able to move it up - out of the way.

It works pretty well - i have not tried a Brew yet - to see if Condensation is a problem or not.
( don't know why it posts sideways )
Steve

 

[steveoatley]

I want a Sticker of my own

Thanks to ballz50401 for the thread - give credit where credit is due


S

 

[JB_Brewing2]

Something where you could swing the fan out of the way ?

I used metal duct work for terminations and the 90 degree bend and then insulated flexible ducting in between. Attached a small pulley with a rope to a floor joist and just tie it off above head height when not in use. Has worked quite well.

 

[ampsman]

This thread is great and I was able to get my hood all setup!!
Did anyone who used the M6 fan have issues with condensation leaking by the electrical box? I'm thinking I need to try and rotate the fan so the box isnt on the bottom anymore.

 

[stickyfinger]

Mine definitely leaks from the bottom. The electrical box on mine is on the side, so it does not leak through there. Definitely rotate it and then just put a small condensation pan under it to collect the moisture. the pan will dry out between brews. if you want to get fancy you can seal the fan, drill out a hole for a drain line and plumb it down into a bucket or something.

 

[h22lude]

Need some help setting my exhaust up. I'm not really sure what parts to buy.

I will be exhausting the steam out of my basement. The hole for the exhaust is level with the ceiling. It goes in about 4 feet. I figured it would be easiest to use a rigid pipe since I could hold it steady while I push it through the hole in the siding. I couldn't figure out how to attach the non-tapered end since a 4" pipe is the same size as the 4" to 6" reducer.

So I bought this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-P...ite-with-11-in-Tail-Pipe-EX-HLWT-04/202907375

I also have some 4" flexible piping. Two 6" to 4" reducers.

I'm hoping I can attach the tail pipe from the plastic hood to the flexible pipe and push that through the joists and find the hole. Then attach the reducer to the flexible pipe and that to the fan. The other reducer to the other side of the fan and more flexible pipe. That goes to the stainless bowl.

Did I make this too complicated? I just couldn't figure out how to use this stuff since the non-tapered ends don't fit 4" parts. I guess thinking about it now, I could have just used 6" flexible lol I do need a reducer to get a 4" pipe through the joists and in the hole to the vent.

 

[stickyfinger]

Need some help setting my exhaust up. I'm not really sure what parts to buy.

I will be exhausting the steam out of my basement. The hole for the exhaust is level with the ceiling. It goes in about 4 feet. I figured it would be easiest to use a rigid pipe since I could hold it steady while I push it through the hole in the siding. I couldn't figure out how to attach the non-tapered end since a 4" pipe is the same size as the 4" to 6" reducer.

So I bought this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-P...ite-with-11-in-Tail-Pipe-EX-HLWT-04/202907375

I also have some 4" flexible piping. Two 6" to 4" reducers.

I'm hoping I can attach the tail pipe from the plastic hood to the flexible pipe and push that through the joists and find the hole. Then attach the reducer to the flexible pipe and that to the fan. The other reducer to the other side of the fan and more flexible pipe. That goes to the stainless bowl.

Did I make this too complicated? I just couldn't figure out how to use this stuff since the non-tapered ends don't fit 4" parts. I guess thinking about it now, I could have just used 6" flexible lol I do need a reducer to get a 4" pipe through the joists and in the hole to the vent.

One option that may not be kosher but that will probably work fine is to just butt the two pipes up to each other and then put metal duct tape around them. I can't imagine it wouldn't hold will if you put like three pieces overlapping around the joint.

 

[h22lude]

I went back to Home Depot this morning and took a better look at what they had. So I think what I'm going to do is have the vent connected to a hard 4" pipe. At the other end of the pipe is a 4" to 6" reducer. Then I bought 6" semi rigid pipe which will connect the reducer to the exhaust fan. On the intake port I'm not sure if I will use semi rigid or flexible 6" pipe to the bowl.

 

[ampsman]

Mine definitely leaks from the bottom. The electrical box on mine is on the side, so it does not leak through there. Definitely rotate it and then just put a small condensation pan under it to collect the moisture. the pan will dry out between brews. if you want to get fancy you can seal the fan, drill out a hole for a drain line and plumb it down into a bucket or something.

Thanks!! Problem solved!!

 

[steveoatley]

Thanks!! Problem solved!!

Ampsman

How much water comes out of your fan in a 1 hour boil?

1 cup
1 quart ?

thanks

S

 

[ampsman]

what you are looking at is after about 45 minutes of a test boil.

 

[steveoatley]

thanks, looks to be about a Cup

Are you concerned ?

Steve

 

[ampsman]

Its not ideal but from what I understand it shouldn't cause any issues.
I'll probably eventually take it apart and seal it and install a drain tube.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

thanks, looks to be about a Cup

Are you concerned ?

Steve

Have you considered insulating your duct? I used insulated duct with what looks to be a somewhat longer run and have just a few drops on the floor. Just trying to help.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

Its not ideal but from what I understand it shouldn't cause any issues.
I'll probably eventually take it apart and seal it and install a drain tube.

Whoops, previous post meant for ampsman.

 

[Ihop2many]

Its not ideal but from what I understand it shouldn't cause any issues.
I'll probably eventually take it apart and seal it and install a drain tube.

Just my 2c.
Why is the steam condensing?
1) Not enough velocity?
2) High impedance ducting?
3) External air keeping the motor and duct cold?

I'm guessing it's mainly #3, but that's only an opinion as that is one helluva motor there and the run is quite short.

I've seen a lot of comments about sealing the motor housing and can only believe that's not what you want, who needs a pool of water sitting in the housing waiting to evaporate. If there's water condensing get it out as quickly and efficiently as possible without causing an additional air leak.

Good luck.

 

[schematix]

Just my 2c.
Why is the steam condensing?
1) Not enough velocity?
2) High impedance ducting?
3) External air keeping the motor and duct cold?

I'm guessing it's mainly #3, but that's only an opinion as that is one helluva motor there and the run is quite short.

I've seen a lot of comments about sealing the motor housing and can only believe that's not what you want, who needs a pool of water sitting in the housing waiting to evaporate. If there's water condensing get it out as quickly and efficiently as possible without causing an additional air leak.

Good luck.

Straight forward physics here. If the surfaces of your blower and duct are less than the temperature required for steam, you're going to get condensation. The colder it is and the more contact time, the more condensation.

#1 and #2 are inversely related. The less restriction in the duct, the lower the pressure drop, the higher pressure differential, and thus the higher the velocity will be. Higher velocity will reduce your contact time, but you're still going to get some condensation. You cannot eliminate it 100%.

So your options are:
1. Heat all pipes, blowers, etc, that come into contact with the steam so that all your steam stays "dry".
2. Drain the condensation you get.

Also, sealing the blower is fine, but if you have a horizontal orientation you want to add a drip hole at the low point and drain it from there. In a vertical installation it'll run back down and into your kettle (which is what mine doe).

 

[stickyfinger]

Thanks!! Problem solved!!

Nice! I want to put a condensation line in mine, but it's been a year and the bread pan is still working, so it stays for now!

 

[stickyfinger]

I'm getting a little more condensation now that it is winter. I have about 5" of rigid 6"-duct attached to my SS bowl, then an elbow, then the fan, then maybe 18" to my hole in the window and out. That is about as short as you can get.

The problem, as has been stated, is that there is HUGE amount of moisture going through the fan for minutes and minutes, and it is obviously colder than 212F inside of there so you will get water. I have a few tablespoons in my "bread pan" condensation pan after 90 minutes of boiling this time of year. It's like 35F outside and like 55-60F in my basement.

Today is actually the first day it's had an issue in 1 yr. I noticed some water dripping out of one of my metal-duct-taped connections, running down my bowl, accumulating on the lip and then dripping down. I guess I need to put on more tape when it dries. It's no big deal.

 

[ampsman]

Straight forward physics here. If the surfaces of your blower and duct are less than the temperature required for steam, you're going to get condensation. The colder it is and the more contact time, the more condensation.

#1 and #2 are inversely related. The less restriction in the duct, the lower the pressure drop, the higher pressure differential, and thus the higher the velocity will be. Higher velocity will reduce your contact time, but you're still going to get some condensation. You cannot eliminate it 100%.

So your options are:
1. Heat all pipes, blowers, etc, that come into contact with the steam so that all your steam stays "dry".
2. Drain the condensation you get.

Also, sealing the blower is fine, but if you have a horizontal orientation you want to add a drip hole at the low point and drain it from there. In a vertical installation it'll run back down and into your kettle (which is what mine doe).

Thanks for the info! I'm going to try and insulate my pipes somehow.
As a sidenote, I had been brewing at night when it was about 50 degrees out, but brewed this weekend during the day with temps around 70 and had no condensation.

 

[steveoatley]

I followed this thread

Built my own Easy & Cheap vent Hood
And i had tons of dripage - leaks - too much water

I moved up to a 6 inch fan, and it was a HUGE improvement !

I am not sure how so many of yous guys are getting away with a 4 inch fan?
More power to ya !

here is my thread - i hope it helps anyone who had the same problems

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=570312&page=4

my 2 cents, just trying to help

Steve

 

[stickyfinger]

I'd stick with 6" fan and duct for all of it if possible.

 

[tmendick]

I went all out and got an 8 inch fan with a variable speed controller, I would highly recommend going that route. I've had no condensation and little water(less than an ounce) in the duct line but that was mostly on really cold days outside.

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Thanks for the inspiration
Finally got around to doing mine. Still need to add the vent to outside & do a test but it is much better aesthetically pleasing to look at now!

Old Setup (that blocked the whole window):

New (With a View!), all polished Stainless :

 

[HopheadNJ]

I built a similar hood setup with 440CFM fan & 6" aluminum foil style flexible duct. I've only ran on 1 boil so far but noticed a bit of condensation. Are you all replacing duct work periodically? Most of the steam was blowing out of the vent, but i'm concerned about mold with residual condensation.

 

[schematix]

I built a similar hood setup with 440CFM fan & 6" aluminum foil style flexible duct. I've only ran on 1 boil so far but noticed a bit of condensation. Are you all replacing duct work periodically? Most of the steam was blowing out of the vent, but i'm concerned about mold with residual condensation.

Just run your blower for an hour after you finish. It'll dry out the vent.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

Just run your blower for an hour after you finish. It'll dry out the vent.

...and an hour before to acclimate your duct work to ambient temperature (Less condensation in duct).

 

[Ki-ri-n]

Note to anyone using 90° elbows, you will need to silicone the joints. I had so much condensation coming out it wasn't funny. I used clear silicone and no more condensation And it isn't that noticeable against a polished surface either.

Also, people may want to add an intake screen. I had used some paper towel to absorb some of the moisture while brewing/cleaning up. I must have forgotten about it because the next brew day may fan would no longer suck. It even tripped out from over heating. Low and behold I found that paper towel tangled in the impeller of the fan:smack:

 

[h22lude]

Note to anyone using 90° elbows, you will need to silicone the joints. I had so much condensation coming out it wasn't funny. I used clear silicone and no more condensation And it isn't that noticeable against a polished surface either.

Also, people may want to add an intake screen. I had used some paper towel to absorb some of the moisture while brewing/cleaning up. I must have forgotten about it because the next brew day may fan would no longer suck. It even tripped out from over heating. Low and behold I found that paper towel tangled in the impeller of the fan:smack:

I used the exhaust silver tape you find in the same aisle with the pipes. Stuff is great.

 

[akroessler]

Is that fan enough CFM?? Are you gas or electric brewing?