E-kettle: How to install element?

[lustrum]

Hey guys,

I recently made a keggle and would like to install an element, using it as a HLT and BK.

I've read a lot of posts about electric setups but could not find one that shows a best practice for installing the element.

Here are my questions:

1. What type of element is best (I believe 120vac 20amp breaker can support up to 1500W), but what about 220VAC? What is a good choice for heating 10-12 gallons in a reasonable amount of time?

2. Low density? What is the best choice here... where are you buying your elements?

3. How do I install this thing? What coupler is needed and how is the wiring on the back of the element covered?

Thanks for your help.

lustrum

 

[gunner65]

www.bargainfittings.com sells the stainless nut and o-ring you drill a hole and install it with the nut/o-ring on the inside.

Or you could do what I did and have the stainless nut welded to the outside of the kettle.

 

[lustrum]

Do you leave the outside of the element exposed or do you use a pipe cap to cover it somehow? Thanks

 

[willynilly]

If you are heating 10-12 gallons, you will want to go with 240VAC if you can... otherwise you will be waiting half the day.

BargainFittings has all you need to install it

Low Watt or ULTRA Low Watt, I prefer CAMCO products, find them online anywhere.

Most guys pot their electrical connections in an epoxy with suitable dielectric properties.

 

[gunner65]

Here you go!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bling-bling-electric-herms-conversion-93217/

 

[willynilly]

Here you go!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bling-bling-electric-herms-conversion-93217/

Yup, just like that

 

[TheAleMaster]

http://theelectricbrewery.com/node/9

I followed this write up and am quite satisfied.

 

[lustrum]

This is exactly what I was looking for! Looks like 240VAC is best for 10+ gallons.

How long do your kettles take to reach a boil using 240V (5500W?) elements?

Thanks again

 

[erik]

Check out http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/node/9. They do a good job of showing it.

I had problems with the 5500W element that I bought at Lowes because the threaded section was not very long and my HLT is an aluminum keggle (thick) so I couldn't use the 2gang panel that they recommend. It works fine on my regular keggle.

 

[jfkriege]

I used high temperature solder and am very pleased with it. If you want some more information on mine, just let me know.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/modular-electric-brewery-177852/

J

 

[android]

does anyone know if one of those chassis punches will work on a keg?

 

[erik]

I was in too much of a hurry to try to buy a chassis punch on ebay. I already had a step bit from Harbor Freight (and lots of good cutting oil) that worked well.

 

[marzsit]

yes, i've used greenlee punches on kegs, they do work well.

 

[willynilly]

does anyone know if one of those chassis punches will work on a keg?

Yes, but be certain you get the right size... 1" isnt a 1" hole. Also, they are rated for the type of material and the GA if material. Make sure you get a set that will punch the wall of a SS keg, not all are made for that.

 

[lustrum]

Knockouts are nice, but I don't happen to have any and $60 a pop is out of the budget for my build. I do have step bits, however, and will be using those with cutting oil and my trusty Rigid 10amp VSR corded drill.

Does anyone else ground their plugs to a poll on the keggle? I'd never seen that before. I imagine that there is sufficient contact through the bushings-->element socket-->keg wall to ground out the connection.

Anyone have any varying opinions on that?

 

[willynilly]

Knockouts are nice, but I don't happen to have any and $60 a pop is out of the budget for my build. I do have step bits, however, and will be using those with cutting oil and my trusty Rigid 10amp VSR corded drill.

Does anyone else ground their plugs to a poll on the keggle? I'd never seen that before. I imagine that there is sufficient contact through the bushings-->element socket-->keg wall to ground out the connection.

Anyone have any varying opinions on that?

Yeah, maybe... but there is no ground connection on the element, so you have to make a ground connection, most people do this on the kettle.

 

[Walker]

www.bargainfittings.com sells the stainless nut and o-ring you drill a hole and install it with the nut/o-ring on the inside.

Or you could do what I did and have the stainless nut welded to the outside of the kettle.

Did you weld that on backwards? The nuts from bargain fittings have a groove in them to hold the silicon o-ring, but I don't see that groove in your picture?

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't think it matters with the groove when you've welded the thing in. The gasket on the element is flat and should seat against the flat of the nut just fine.

 

[pickles]

I don't think it matters with the groove when you've welded the thing in. The gasket on the element is flat and should seat against the flat of the nut just fine.

Bobby is correct, but I replaced my gasket with a silicone o-ring I had laying around and made sure my groove was facing out.

 

[Bobby_M]

Come to think of it, those punched in numbers/letters may be a problem. I'd grind it flat.

 

[gunner65]

When we were welding them we had no idea there was a groove but the element does not leak at all with the supplied gasket.

 

[Walker]

I don't think it matters with the groove when you've welded the thing in. The gasket on the element is flat and should seat against the flat of the nut just fine.

When we were welding them we had no idea there was a groove but the element does not leak at all with the supplied gasket.

Ah, OK. I am not using the gasket that came with the element. Just the o-ring that came with the locknut.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Bargain fittings also started carrying these at my request. A full coupling with Element fittings. More to weld to the keg instead of just that little nut since the keg wall isn't flat. Getting mine welded this week or next. I then just plan to use teflon tape on the threads just like any other fitting on my unit.

 

[d_m_s_00]

So i looked at Bargan Fitting's site, the locknut is nps, while the coupler is npt. the element thread is nps right? to fit the element in the coupler do you just wrap it in teflon and screw it in until the threads lock? (because they are 2 differn't size threads - not because they fit properly) or are nps and npt the same?

 

[Walker]

Bargain fittings also started carrying these at my request. A full coupling with Element fittings. More to weld to the keg instead of just that little nut since the keg wall isn't flat. Getting mine welded this week or next. I then just plan to use teflon tape on the threads just like any other fitting on my unit.

FYI: if you have one of the Ripp heater elements (like this) you could have problems using a full coupling like this. My buddy has the ripp element and the angle of the bends does not allow it to be inserted through the hole in a full coupling.

A half-coupling will work, but not a full.

 

[lustrum]

How are y'all attaching a screw to the kettle for the ground wire? I wonder if soldering it to the outside would work?

PS--Walker, your icon is just frightening! The funny thing is... I work with someone who looks strangely similar. Hmmm....

 

[Walker]

How are y'all attaching a screw to the kettle for the ground wire? I wonder if soldering it to the outside would work?

PS--Walker, your icon is just frightening! The funny thing is... I work with someone who looks strangely similar. Hmmm....

I drilled a hole in the metal "collar" at the bottom of my kettle (converted keg) and attached the ground wire there with a screw:

If you are using a regular pot, you could probably solder it on, but I think you'll need special flux for the stainless soldering. There is a sticky thread in the DIY section about soldering stainless, I think.

 

[lustrum]

Great idea, Walker. That's what I'll do on my keggle, too. Thanks

 

[TheAleMaster]

How are y'all attaching a screw to the kettle for the ground wire? I wonder if soldering it to the outside would work?

If you don't want to put more holes in your kettle, you could always drill/tap a spot on the metal nut part of the element. That's what I did and am very glad I did so as it keeps everything inside either your junction box (like the one in the Electric Brewery links) or inside your potting.

 

[lustrum]

Even better... You wouldn't happen to have a shot of it?

I was thinking of using a silicone gasket + ss nut on the inside of the keg and then tighten the nut on the element on the outside down to hold everything in place. Do you think this will have potential to leak?

 

[TheAleMaster]

I don't have one handy, but I will try and get one tonight.

 

[Walker]

I was thinking of using a silicone gasket + ss nut on the inside of the keg and then tighten the nut on the element on the outside down to hold everything in place. Do you think this will have potential to leak?

This is the actual intended use for the bargainfittings nut & o-rings sets.

 

[TheAleMaster]

I couldn't really get a good pic. But here is a mock up if you looked at the element from the top. I drilled and tapped a hole for a #6 screw. I then screwed the screw with two washers part way in, attached the wire with a fork connector in between the two washers and tightened it down.

 

[IrregularPulse]

FYI: if you have one of the Ripp heater elements (like this) you could have problems using a full coupling like this. My buddy has the ripp element and the angle of the bends does not allow it to be inserted through the hole in a full coupling.

A half-coupling will work, but not a full.

Good to know. I've currently only got one 1500W mounted in my newly welded kegs. I'll keep that in mind when I got to buy my 5500W for the boil kettle

I couldn't really get a good pic. But here is a mock up if you looked at the element from the top. I drilled and tapped a hole for a #6 screw. I then screwed the screw with two washers part way in, attached the wire with a fork connector in between the two washers and tightened it down.

Any reason you didn't use a ring terminal? Take the small chance away of the fork connector from sliding out.

 

[Figgy15]

I'm looking to add a heating element to my kettle but I use an immersion chiller. How would that work lol?

 

[GreenMonti]

Wow, big time revival.

 

[RationalRev]

I'm looking to add a heating element to my kettle but I use an immersion chiller. How would that work lol?

Old tread back from the dead.
I found that I will have to lower my heating element to the bottom of the pot, and only then will my chiller be fully immersed.

 

[David C]

Hey guys,

I recently made a keggle and would like to install an element, using it as a HLT and BK.

I've read a lot of posts about electric setups but could not find one that shows a best practice for installing the element.

Here are my questions:

1. What type of element is best (I believe 120vac 20amp breaker can support up to 1500W), but what about 220VAC? What is a good choice for heating 10-12 gallons in a reasonable amount of time?

2. Low density? What is the best choice here... where are you buying your elements?

3. How do I install this thing? What coupler is needed and how is the wiring on the back of the element covered?

Thanks for your help.

lustrum

I have just gone through the process that you outline and found that using a 1.5" Tri-clover connection for the element is what worked for me. Brewharware in N.J. have extensive video's and kits for sale that give you the connection and all ancilliary elements to completed the HLT and your Boil kettle. It is worth having a look at what Bobby sells/presents. The Tri-coupling is installed via a dimpled hole that you cut with a step bit, make sure you get a Cobalt one, the cheaper ones will be "one use only. Good luck with your project.

Dave C