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E-Herms Build 50 amp

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I just pulled up Kal's wiring diagram and compared it to the schematic on the octal relay he used and my initial diagram is essentially the same. His octal relay has the terminal numbers arranged differently.

Here's Kal's description: "The safe start interlock relay only receives power when the POWER KEY switch is set to ON and all three other switches are set to OFF. Once the interlock relay receives power and latches, it feeds into the POWER IN RELAY coil to turn on the rest of the control panel. Once latched, power for the interlock relay is then also drawn directly from the POWER KEY switch through one of the poles in the interlock relay that is now closed. This keeps the interlock relay coil energized and allows the other three switches to be turned ON or OFF as required without turning off the control panel while in use or affecting the interlock capability. If power to the panel is cut, the interlock relay releases and the three switches must be set to OFF before the panel may be powered on again."

So, I think the power from the key switch to terminal 5 is essentially what stays latched when the pump/element switches are turned off and on, keeping power going to the main contactor. It only becomes unlatched when the key switch is turned off. I think :)
 
Gentlemen, my apologies. I see it now. It seems both versions do work. Carry on! Must have been too late and I wasn't seeing the latch, but it IS there! My bad! Good luck with your build cheez!!!
 
Once again, thanks for everyone's help. I should be able to finish the wiring within the next couple of days, with the exception of waiting for the additional NO blocks I need for my alarm switches.
 
Looking forward to seeing how your interlock goes Cheez. I was actually thinking about that same relay a couple days ago before I saw your threads. Please let us know how it goes and what you end up doing with the wiring. My build will be a lot like yours except I will just use 1 element at a time. Good luck and great job so far! :D
 
Looking forward to seeing how your interlock goes Cheez. I was actually thinking about that same relay a couple days ago before I saw your threads. Please let us know how it goes and what you end up doing with the wiring. My build will be a lot like yours except I will just use 1 element at a time. Good luck and great job so far! :D

Thanks! I ended up wiring the relay per my original diagram. I'm waiting for some additional NO contact blocks to show up (hopefully next week) and then I can plug this thing in!
 
Hey man. I was just checking in on the build. Hope everything is coming along. Enjoy your new setup!

I'm just waiting for a couple more NO contact blocks for my alarm switches to show up (should be here tomorrow) and my Stout tanks order should be ready by the end of May. The panel is 99% complete. I've been playing around with pump and plate chiller locations and mounting options.

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Not much to report. I got the two NO contact blocks in the mail the other day and wired them up so the panel is 100% done (except the tags/labels). I'm pretty much on hold until I pick up my Stout tanks package towards the end of May. I'm still trying to figure out where I want my pumps and plate chiller located on the stand. I'm thinking of putting them close together and off to one end. I will probably wait to mount these until I get my kettles and can play around with it more.
 
Were you able to confirm that the interlock/relay setup you went with works correctly or do you have to wait to check that out? The panel looks great BTW.
 
Were you able to confirm that the interlock/relay setup you went with works correctly or do you have to wait to check that out? The panel looks great BTW.

I haven't yet. I spent Friday and today brewing 4 batches of beer as I am almost bone dry. I have 6 taps and try to pull from all of them equally. The problem with that is they all run out at the same damn time!

I need to do one last trace of the wires to make sure they all go where they are supposed to. I went through them a couple of days ago and found a few that were mixed up. I figured I will let it rest for a few days, get a fresh mind, and look at it again. I'll probably run continuity tests on what I can to see if that catches anything else. If all looks good, there's no reason why I couldn't plug it in and see what happens (a.k.a. watch the sparks fly!).

To tell you the truth, I'm afraid to plug this damn thing in :eek: I'm a realist and know that something will be messed up... but at least I won't be dissapointed :D
 
Nothing new to report other than I received an e-mail from Stout tanks saying all of my stuff should be ready for pick-up the first week of June. Once I get the kettles, I will mount the pumps, plate chiller, and panel. I still need to grow some balz and plug this panel in... I'm thinking I will have a few homebrews beforehand to help soften me up for a potential disaster ;)
 
I finally grew some cajones and plugged the panel in today. I turned on the key switch and the safe start relay and main contactor clicked on - great!. I then flipped both of the 2 pole breakers on and nothing blew up - great! I flipped on the 15-amp breaker and it immediately blew the 5-amp fast blow fuse - damn! The only things downstream of this fuse are the PID's and Timer's. I immediately remembered that I may have used the wrong wiring diagram for the Auber Timer's (they have two on-line) so I pulled up the latest one, switched some wires around and bingo! We have ignition. I am very thankful I put that in-line fuse in otherwise I may have had some fried PID's and Timer's.

I only had enough time this evening to check that the e-stop works, the safe start interlock relay works, the pump outlets had power, the element switches are turning their respective contactors on/off, the PID's and Timer's turn on, a timer alarm sent a signal to the buzzer, and all pushbutton's illuminate when switched. Great success!

I hope to have time this weekend to play around with the PID's and Timer's to make sure they are doing what they are supposed to and I expect to pick up my Stout Tanks order next week. I might be brewing on this thing in July if all goes well.
 
I picked up my Stout tanks last Friday. Overall, I like them. As others have mentioned, I wish the outlet from the HLT and Mash Tun were about 1/4" higher. I went with the butterfly valves for the outlets from all three vessels and the body of the butterfly valve bottoms out on the brew stand on the HLT and MT. So, I will need to put some boards or something beneath these two vessels to raise them up a hair. I hope they fix this some day for future owners.

The overall craftsmanship is average. Not all of the welded fittings are lined up with each other vertically or are not at 90 degrees from the handles or each other. I wish there was a hook on the lids to hang them from the handles. I almost need a separate "lid stand" :) I like that the HERMS coil has a big space between the coils so the heating element can pass through without hitting the coil. I think the Blichman's are slightly better made as far as looks go and the fittings lining up. But, it's hard to beat the Stout prices and I love the tri-clamps!

I just placed orders with brewers hardware, brew hardware, and bargain fittings for a ton of valves, fittings, tri-clamp stuff, tubing, etc.

This week I hope to attach the TV mount to the stand, finish the pump stand, and mount the plate chiller to the stand. Once I get my orders in on all of the fittigns, I will hard plumb some water lines on the stand, run all of the cables from the control panel to the pumps and vessels, and do a test run.
 
I just need to figure out how to run the heating element power, pump power, and RTD cables from the control panel, along the back side of the brew stand and to the kettles. I also want to run a water pipe to the top of the BK and HLT for easy filling but I'm having a hard time visualizing something I like.

I started a thread asking for examples here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/need-examples-wire-cable-runs-brew-stand-418429/

Once I get that stuff done, it's time for a test run with water!

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You could always take some wire and make a hook for the handles so the lid will hang from the handle. Might not look super professional but it would do the job.
 
Sorry to be a pain Cheez but do you remember what point size you used for the lettering on the tags?
 
Sorry to be a pain Cheez but do you remember what point size you used for the lettering on the tags?

No problem. I got about 99% of my build ideas from this forum so the least I can do is return the favor.

I got 1/2" x 1-3/4" plastic tags with beveled edges, white lettering on a black background, 1/8" tall letters, Arial Black font, and double sided tape.

Cost for 28 tags including shipping was just over $50.
 
I finally ran some PVC water lines on the back side of the stand and ran the all of the power cords beneath. Now I just need to calibrate the sight glasses and make sure everything is buttoned up. I will post a bunch of pictures soon.
 
Cheez, what size are your Stout Tanks? I read the entire thread so sorry if I missed it.

30 gal BK, 20 gal HLT, & 20 gal MT. I plan on doing 15 gallon batches so a 20 gal BK would have been pushing it for higher gravity brews. I really wish they, or anyone for that matter, offered a 25 gallon BK as that would be perfect for 15 gallon batches. Unfortunatley, this 30 BK may be too big to use for 5 gallon batches.
 
Thanks, my long range plans are for a 20 BK, 20 HLT and a 20 MT. I want to be able to brew from 5 gallons to 15. I am concerned though if 5 gallons will work, but if it works for you it will for me.
 
Thanks, my long range plans are for a 20 BK, 20 HLT and a 20 MT. I want to be able to brew from 5 gallons to 15. I am concerned though if 5 gallons will work, but if it works for you it will for me.

A 20 gal BK will really pushing it for 15 gal batches. I hope to do a test run within the next couple of weeks and I'll see if 5 gal is doable in my huge kettle.
 
A 20 gal BK will really pushing it for 15 gal batches. I hope to do a test run within the next couple of weeks and I'll see if 5 gal is doable in my huge kettle.

Might I suggest Fermcap-S if you feel that boilovers are a serious concern?
 
Might I suggest Fermcap-S if you feel that boilovers are a serious concern?

I use that stuff and love it. I just think a 20 gal BK is pushing it for 15 gal batches, especially for a 90 minute boil and massive hop additions
 
I currently use a keggle. My last batch was a 13 gallon Saison. I filled it up to 14.5 gallons and boiled down to 13. Now, that would not have been possible without fermcap, and I did not have big hop additions. It was a challenge, but I do not do brews that big very much.
 
Thanks, my long range plans are for a 20 BK, 20 HLT and a 20 MT. I want to be able to brew from 5 gallons to 15. I am concerned though if 5 gallons will work, but if it works for you it will for me.

Sorry Cheez, don't mean to hi-jack, just adding some input. Looking at the dates, I'm willing to bet my stout tanks came in the same shipment as yours...just drove down to pick them up a few weeks ago.

Anyway, I went with all 20 gallon kettles. The reason behind that is I primarily brew 5 gallon batches but occasion to go larger. I intended to buy the 15 gallon size but then I saw that the diameter of the 20 is the same as the 15 and the price for the extra capacity was not much higher so it made complete sense to add cheap capacity as it wasn't going to impact brewing smaller batches. The 30 gallon kettle increases the diameter so that I figured that would negatively impact my ability to brew 5 gallon batches.
 
No problem. I got about 99% of my build ideas from this forum so the least I can do is return the favor.

I got 1/2" x 1-3/4" plastic tags with beveled edges, white lettering on a black background, 1/8" tall letters, Arial Black font, and double sided tape.

Cost for 28 tags including shipping was just over $50.

I need to order some tags too. Did you upload a list of all the tags you want or did you add them individually?
 
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