Dummy it down for me...

[friedpicklechips]

Okay, there are a thousand different resources on this site, and I've gotten alot of useful information. I'm in the process of planning my Electric HERMS control box and I need some advise/help.
First question: If I'm running on 240 volts can I use these LED switches or something similar?
Second question is: If I have 220/240V coming in can I run a 110/120V march pump? If so, how?

 

[govain]

Second question is: If I have 220/240V coming in can I run a 110/120V march pump? If so, how?

If you look at this diagram: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/another-p-j-diagram-biab-5500w-single-vessel-single-pump-illuminated-switches-264251/ you can see that there's only one hot line running through the pump, so you're only running 120v to the pump. So the short answer would be "Yes."

 

[Sea]

Okay, there are a thousand different resources on this site, and I've gotten alot of useful information. I'm in the process of planning my Electric HERMS control box and I need some advise/help.
First question: If I'm running on 240 volts can I use these LED switches or something similar?
Second question is: If I have 220/240V coming in can I run a 110/120V march pump? If so, how?

Those LED Switches are designed for 12 volt DC systems, likely automotive applications. I have no idea what your system will look like, but unless you have a 12V DC power source, and something you want to switch at 12V, they won't do you any good. You can prolly find something similar in higher voltage variety, rated for AC.

240VAC power can be run with or without a neutral. If you want/need 120V power as well, you need the neutral. 240 = two hots and a ground. 120 = either one of the hots, the neutral, and the ground.

 

[boist]

Second question is: If I have 220/240V coming in can I run a 110/120V march pump? If so, how?

Or, if you've not bought it yet, you could just get the 220V version of the pump. Could save you a bit of hassle if all your lines and connections have just one voltage.

 

[friedpicklechips]

Unfortunately, I received the pump used from a friend so I'm stuck with it. As for the switches, any ideas along the same sort of design?

 

[friedpicklechips]

Thanks for the replies. I've decided to go with the illuminated pushbuttons on the Auberins website: click here. I think that these should work just fine for me. Here is what I'm planning on for my control panel so far. Does anyone know of a good dial switch to adjust the heating element for the boil kettle? Any thoughts or ideas?

 

[Lost]

If you are using the auberins pid then it will adjust the element by cycling it on and off. The manual mode on the pid allows you to do this.. well.. manually. So you don't need a switch there. But maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are asking..

 

[friedpicklechips]

I only plan on using the PID controls to adjust the heating element in the HLT and to read the temperature of the mash tun. Since water boils @ 100 degrees Centigrade, I don't really need another PID control and temp probe for the boil kettle. I just want a dial where I can adjust the amount of power going to the element to prevent boil- overs.
I hope this explains what I'm planning a bit better...

 

[snail]

Pulse Width Modulator
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-show-us-how-221301/

 

[Lost]

You can simply use a dpdt center off toggle switch to switch the current from the hlt to the bk. Then the pid can control both vessels but only one at a time.

Alternatively, I believe the dial type control sold for electric ranges can be used. I've seen them at my local hardware store.

 

[Lost]

Pulse Width Modulator
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-show-us-how-221301/

Pretty cool but it looks like it is anything but simple. A switch probably the simplest solution.

 

[Lost]

To follow up on what I said previously, the range type switch, if you choose to go that route is called an "infinite switch"

Here is a url explaining it. http://americanhvacparts.com/Mercha...ROD&Product_Code=INF2194110&Category_Code=ES6

Just be sure whatever switch you use (dpdt or infinite) is rated for the amps the element will draw.

 

[snail]

Pretty cool but it looks like it is anything but simple. A switch probably the simplest solution.

I think so too. Looking at his diagram though, it looked like he wanted an independent knob that controlled the heating element for the boil and not use a PID. But I agree using the PID would be the simplest way!

 

[friedpicklechips]

I didn't know I could control the boil kettle with the same PID...I'll have to look into that. It might be cheaper to go that route. Thanks for the input.

 

[P-J]

I didn't know I could control the boil kettle with the same PID...I'll have to look into that. It might be cheaper to go that route. Thanks for the input.

Which PIDs are you intending to use?

I'd suggest that you go with the Auber Instruments PID Controller - SYL-2352 as it is an excellent unit with manual control. The instruction manual for it is downloadable from that site.

 

[Lost]

Which PIDs are you intending to use?

I'd suggest that you go with the Auber Instruments PID Controller - SYL-2352 as it is an excellent unit with manual control. The instruction manual for it is downloadable from that site.

Follow P-J's "simple eherms diagram" it uses a switch with contractors to power both kettles. Then if you read the thread there is another simpler diagram with a single dpdt center off high amp switch that replaces the contractors. Parts numbers are provided. P-J is a real asset around here.

 

[friedpicklechips]

Awesome. I did plan on using the Auber PIDs.

 

[friedpicklechips]

I'm really starting to like P-J's "simple eherms diagram." I think that I'm going to try to utilize the simpler diagram, though, with a single dpdt center off high amp switch. My next question is how do you switch thermometer probes? Should I just unplug one and plug in the other, or can I use another switch. Or, should I just let it run on full boil? I would like to have some control over it, though.