Dual tower hoses

[BackAlley]

Hi,

Got a Krome dual tower faucet for Christmas. It comes with only 5 or 6' of hose. It looks like replacing that with 10' is going to be quite a chore but I'm thinking that I'd be a fool not to. It's 3/16" ID. Currently I use 10' of 3/16" ID with picnic taps.

Advice? I assume adding length with a coupler is not workable right?

I'm pretty disappointed that when you spend $150 you don't get excessive lengths of hoses.

Thanks in advance.


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[mtnagel]

I just faced the same situation as you. I went ahead and replaced the lines and it was a big pain in the butt. I hope I don't have to do that too often. It required buying a wrench and basically taking the entire thing apart. I haven't even used mine yet, so hopefully it was worth it.

 

[aiptasia]

Hi,

Got a Krome dual tower faucet for Christmas. It comes with only 5 or 6' of hose. It looks like replacing that with 10' is going to be quite a chore but I'm thinking that I'd be a fool not to. It's 3/16" ID. Currently I use 10' of 3/16" ID with picnic taps.

Advice? I assume adding length with a coupler is not workable right?

I'm pretty disappointed that when you spend $150 you don't get excessive lengths of hoses.

Thanks in advance.


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Well, you could use a coupler with hose clamps but it's less than ideal. It just becomes another site for potential leaks and infection. IMHO, just replace the hose like you're planning to do. You might also consider purchasing a second set of everything for a quick replacement when you need to flush/clean your lines.

The only other advice I can offer you is you might have to adjust the serving pressure to compensate for the extra line space. That won't be a big deal as you usually have to play with your serving pressure a bit in any new kegerator setup to get it just right. Instead of pushing beer at 4 psi, you might have to use 6 psi.

 

[Hammy71]

I think every tower comes with the standard 5' whip. So no surprises there. I would definitely change the lines over to 10'. It's usually not that hard to do. 9 times out of 10 the top pops off the tower making access pretty simple.

 

[lukebeulah]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/changing-beer-lines-ss-draft-tower-161476/
This thread gives some ideas on how to do it. You basically need to take the nut off the back of the shank and pull the whole works though so that you can replace the lines and clamps.

 

[BackAlley]

I think every tower comes with the standard 5' whip. So no surprises there. I would definitely change the lines over to 10'. It's usually not that hard to do. 9 times out of 10 the top pops off the tower making access pretty simple.

Top's off that's not the issue (actually they didn't even bother to send the cap so I'll have to get them to send that). The issue is that the beer line is connected with a Pex type compression ring at the end of a bent tube. It's possible I could get the hose off but I won't be able to get it back on. Hence the need to disassemble.



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[BackAlley]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/changing-beer-lines-ss-draft-tower-161476/
This thread gives some ideas on how to do it. You basically need to take the nut off the back of the shank and pull the whole works though so that you can replace the lines and clamps.

Beautiful! Thanks!


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[mtnagel]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/changing-beer-lines-ss-draft-tower-161476/
This thread gives some ideas on how to do it. You basically need to take the nut off the back of the shank and pull the whole works though so that you can replace the lines and clamps.

Mine used the standard worm clamp, which couldn't be pulled through the nut that holds the shank (is that what it's called?), so I had to use needle nose pliers to remove those clamps first. It was kind of a PITA. I did it before the tower was attached the fridge, so I have no idea how I'd do it now that the tower is attached.

Top's off that's not the issue (actually they didn't even bother to send the cap so I'll have to get them to send that). The issue is that the beer line is connected with a Pex type compression ring at the end of a bent tube. It's possible I could get the hose off but I won't be able to get it back on. Hence the need to disassemble.

That compression ring might work better than the worm clamps because of what I said above.