Dryer on a 10-2 wire?

[NervousDad]

So I'm moving my dryer so I can make room for my future electric setup and found that the wire that is running to it is a 10-2 with a ground? It's connected to two 30a breakers. The ground was wired to the outlet along with a hot and a black and white wire.

Does the mean my dryer was only running on 120v? I'm hoping that they didn't have the ground wire hooked up to the breaker as a hot wire, but we have upgraded our breaker box and I can't imagine that they did that.

I do have to run my dryer twice to dry heavy stuff I wonder if that was the reason.

 

[Jerz]

I'd get a volt meter and test black to ground, white to ground, and black to white.... When you say two 30amp breakers... do they have a common handle?

 

[Strecker25]

How many wires total, including ground? It's most likely 2 hots and a ground. When you say two breakers are you sure it's not a single double pole 30 amp breaker? That would take up two spots in the panel and may appear to be two breakers

 

[sennister]

So I'm moving my dryer so I can make room for my future electric setup and found that the wire that is running to it is a 10-2 with a ground? It's connected to two 30a breakers. The ground was wired to the outlet along with a hot and a black and white wire.

Does the mean my dryer was only running on 120v? I'm hoping that they didn't have the ground wire hooked up to the breaker as a hot wire, but we have upgraded our breaker box and I can't imagine that they did that.

I do have to run my dryer twice to dry heavy stuff I wonder if that was the reason.

It is pretty common in older wiring. To make 240V (220V) work you don't have to have a neutral. It is 2 hots that run it. Some newer models use 120V timers and such internally and then you would need the Neutral. Though if you look in your panel ground and neutral typically are tied together at the panel.

If you look at the connections on a 240V hot water heater element you will see 2 connection for the hots. Then the kettle is usually grounded. So a 10-2 with ground is pretty common.

If you have to run the dryer twice for heavy loads I would first look at making sure all duct work is clean as lint build up is more commonly the cause if the issue you describe.

Since a photo is worth 1000 words. This shows the pinouts..

 

[NervousDad]

It is pretty common in older wiring. To make 240V (220V) work you don't have to have a neutral. It is 2 hots that run it. Some newer models use 120V timers and such internally and then you would need the Neutral. Though if you look in your panel ground and neutral typically are tied together at the panel.

If you look at the connections on a 240V hot water heater element you will see 2 connection for the hots. Then the kettle is usually grounded. So a 10-2 with ground is pretty common.

If you have to run the dryer twice for heavy loads I would first look at making sure all duct work is clean as lint build up is more commonly the cause if the issue you describe.

Since a photo is worth 1000 words. This shows the pinouts..

Thank you, that is exactly what I have. The "L" shaped version with the ground wire hooked up the "L". I just researched and found that this isn't code anymore so I think I'm going to get that wire replace with a 10-3 w ground.

 

[sennister]

Thank you, that is exactly what I have. The "L" shaped version with the ground wire hooked up the "L". I just researched and found that this isn't code anymore so I think I'm going to get that wire replace with a 10-3 w ground.

If you are replacing the wire anyhow, are you going to brew off this connection as well? Might consider jumping from 10-3 w/ Ground to 6-3 w/ Ground. Then you could bump to 50A. Of course this will be more expensive but it gives you more flexibility in brewing. It would be nice to be able to run two elements at once. The most common reason for this mentioned is back to back brew sessions. The reason I more commonly mention is piece of mind in knowing you can be running an element in the HLT to hold temp during sparge as well as kicking in the BK element once covered to start warming the wort to just shy of boil. Once sparge is complete and you are ready do start to boil, you would only have to wait to come up that last 10F or so.

Most 30A panel designs use a select switch so both elements can't be on at the same time.

At least price out the difference since you are doing the work anyhow. It will be a little more but it shouldn't be ridiculous. If you can swing it you don't have to worry about a year from now kicking yourself that you didn't at least look at 50A when replacing the run.

EDIT: I don't think I have seen where someone regretted going with a 50A solution. I have seen quite a few posts where people wish they would have or could have gone with 50A rather than 30A.

 

[NervousDad]

If you are replacing the wire anyhow, are you going to brew off this connection as well? Might consider jumping from 10-3 w/ Ground to 6-3 w/ Ground. Then you could bump to 50A. Of course this will be more expensive but it gives you more flexibility in brewing. It would be nice to be able to run two elements at once. The most common reason for this mentioned is back to back brew sessions. The reason I more commonly mention is piece of mind in knowing you can be running an element in the HLT to hold temp during sparge as well as kicking in the BK element once covered to start warming the wort to just shy of boil. Once sparge is complete and you are ready do start to boil, you would only have to wait to come up that last 10F or so.

Most 30A panel designs use a select switch so both elements can't be on at the same time.

At least price out the difference since you are doing the work anyhow. It will be a little more but it shouldn't be ridiculous. If you can swing it you don't have to worry about a year from now kicking yourself that you didn't at least look at 50A when replacing the run.

EDIT: I don't think I have seen where someone regretted going with a 50A solution. I have seen quite a few posts where people wish they would have or could have gone with 50A rather than 30A.

Great idea

 

[kenh]

So I'm moving my dryer so I can make room for my future electric setup and found that the wire that is running to it is a 10-2 with a ground? It's connected to two 30a breakers. The ground was wired to the outlet along with a hot and a black and white wire.

Does the mean my dryer was only running on 120v? I'm hoping that they didn't have the ground wire hooked up to the breaker as a hot wire, but we have upgraded our breaker box and I can't imagine that they did that.

I do have to run my dryer twice to dry heavy stuff I wonder if that was the reason.

It's 240V 3 wire. The wrapper on the outside of the wire is the ground.

 

[jeffmeh]

Definitely determine whether it is H-H-G (240v), H-H-N (240v, and the "typical" dryer outlet), or H-N-G (120v).