Dry Hopping in pressured fermenter.

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Brewer_Dad

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Hi all, I want to pick your brain regarding dry hopping. Log post coming.

TL : DR: best way to avoid oxidation in fermzilla, which sits at 10PSI at the moment.

I ferment in fermzilla fermenters, and currently I have an IPA that has stopped fermenting and I want to dry hop. I usually put a hop bag attached to a couple of magnets and just remove the outer magnet so it drops, but I've found that some pellets don't even get wet after I remove the bag, so I want to improve utilization. I have 2 ideas:
  1. go the fastest route, open the fermenter, drop the hops, push some co2 and then purge.
  2. remove the yeast from the bottom, put the hops in the vase, put the vase back in the fermenter and push co2 to purge the oxygen inside the vase using a spunding valve.

What do you think would avoid contact with oxygen in a better way?
Thanks for reading. Picture for reference.
Cheers!

fermzilla-27-litros-starter-kit.jpg
 
I use the magnet method with my Speidel fermenter and I've not had any issues getting all my hops wet. I think the key here may be to use a large enough hop sack to account for hop expansion when wet, and/or don't overload the hop sack. Spreading the load to a second hop sack may also help to accomplish this.
 
I keep a constant flow of CO2 going into my Fermzilla when dry hopping (regulator around 1psi). No detectable oxidation with my hoppy beers.
 
I don't have a Fermzilla, but I know I've seen vids on Youtube with method #2.

I've done the magnet thing once in a Fermonster and instead of just dropping it, I dragged it down into the the wort (I guess it was technically beer by then, but you know what I mean) and left it there. The recipe in question wanted you to remove the 1st drop after 3 days, then drop the 2nd. By keeping the magnet attached below, I was able to drag it back up. This also ensured that all the hops were submerged.
 
I have done the same as @Knightshade drag down below the surface, waft it about on a regular basis as well and then drag out of the beer when dry hop finished . So they drip drain as well.

I don't think there is a better method saving new lids, triclamps sight glasses valves, purging etc and that would cost more than a fermzilla.
 
I first, slowly, release the pressure through a spunding valve.
I then close the butterfly valve and remove the collection chamber. Make sure you have a bowl under the chamber to catch any overflow.
Clean and sanitize the chamber. Add the hops. Put the chamber back in place
I have two plastic carb caps on the chamber.
I use one for CO2 input and the other with a short cobra tap.
I fill and purge the container 10 times.
Then I carefully open the butterfly valve and add CO2 into the system from the collection chamber until the total pressure reaches 10 PSI.
 
CO2 pumped into the liquid post @1 psi, remove gas post, and then add dry hops with a funnel. Likely not the most bulletproof method for keeping oxygen out but as I mentioned, I never have had oxidation issues.

this is what I do and have had good success. I have adopted this over keg hopping and magnets because of observation of dry hops after the beer has been transferred or consumed. In addition to the CO2 on the liquid side to purge CO2 throughout a good number of head space purgings after putting the fermenter back together should hopefully get all the oxygen that may have been introduced out.
 
I have the Fermzilla All Rounder so I don’t have the option of using the collection vessel. But I’ve had very good results with slowly releasing pressure via a spunding valve, removing the lid on top while slowly adding 1-2 psi of co2, then I drop the hood in and reseal the lid. I’ve started purging the headspace of the fermenter once or twice after resealing, but haven’t noticed a big change. I’ve made quite a few hoppy beers with this method and have not detected any oxidation issues even if the keg sits for a few months.
 
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