Dry hop in keg with surescreen

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Dextersmom

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I'm going to try dry hopping in an extra keg I have using pellet hops then pressure transfer to a serving keg, would I run into trouble if I covered the dip tube with a surescreen? Would I end up clogging the dip tube or simply not be able to transfer everything over?
 
Use a hop bag or SS hop tea ball type screen and you have no need to put a screen on your dip tube...I do it all the time. Sometimes I dont even bother hanging them...I have yet to have a dip tube completely blocked by a hop bag...slow but not blocked

FWIW no need to transfer either just pull the hop bag when you have the flavor you want...I have also left them in the keg the whole time although I mostly do that for a Hefeweizen flavor only. As it can become grassy tasting with some hops such as Citra. The whole oxygen thing is overrated..I have opened kegs multible times with zero impact to the beer.
 
Tastes great....so I dont really care if its the most effecient...:)

I mainly dry hop in Primary ( using a bag)...I keg hop to change or add flavor to a beer. If I got 25 or even 50% better isomerisation (Sp) free swimming hops in primary that would not be worth offsetting ruining my yeast and or the issues with packaging my beer. At least not for me. But I'm a lazy brewer.

These are the cats meow.

Stainless_Steel_Homebrew_Beer_Filter_Keg_Dry_Hopper_300_Micron_Mesh_290mm_X_70mm_eBay_-_2017-02-.png
 
Use a hop bag or SS hop tea ball type screen and you have no need to put a screen on your dip tube...I do it all the time. Sometimes I dont even bother hanging them...I have yet to have a dip tube completely blocked by a hop bag...slow but not blocked

FWIW no need to transfer either just pull the hop bag when you have the flavor you want...I have also left them in the keg the whole time although I mostly do that for a Hefeweizen flavor only. As it can become grassy tasting with some hops such as Citra. The whole oxygen thing is overrated..I have opened kegs multible times with zero impact to the beer.

The oxygen thing IS real and CAN impact beer. If you have the means to pressure transfer and limit oxygen, the little extra effort can help. Of course not everyone will think the end results are worth the extra steps, but everyone isn't completely sold on yeast starters either. I recently started keg hopping using a stainless keg hopper, then pressure transferring off the hops to a new (purged) keg. It's worked well so far. I'll be going further down the low oxygen road on my next batch of Helles lager, by fermenting in kegs, under pressure with a spunding valve. This is a beer where all the low oxygen CAN make a noticeable difference.

^^^
That would be the keg hopper I refer to.
 
Nothing relevant to add here, but I read the thread title as sunscreen. That's not gonna work...
 
The oxygen thing IS real and CAN impact beer. If you have the means to pressure transfer and limit oxygen, the little extra effort can help. Of course not everyone will think the end results are worth the extra steps, but everyone isn't completely sold on yeast starters either. I recently started keg hopping using a stainless keg hopper, then pressure transferring off the hops to a new (purged) keg. It's worked well so far. I'll be going further down the low oxygen road on my next batch of Helles lager, by fermenting in kegs, under pressure with a spunding valve. This is a beer where all the low oxygen CAN make a noticeable difference.

^^^
That would be the keg hopper I refer to.

So are you dry hopping with pellet or whole leaf? Are you using a surescreen? Would love to know ur process.... Sounds like what I'm looking for
 
So are you dry hopping with pellet or whole leaf? Are you using a surescreen? Would love to know ur process.... Sounds like what I'm looking for

I have only dry hopped with pellets. I don't know what a surescreen is, so I don't think I'm using one. I use the dry hopper pictured above.

My process is(was):

Dry hop in primary around day 5 for 4 days. (day 9 or 10)
Fill "keg hopper" with 4 oz hop pellets, secure hopper lid and drop into a keg that has been starsan/co2 purged, then close keg.
Rack from primary, to keg through the liquid-out post with pressure release(prv) open.
Fill keg till beer comes out of prv. Purge with co2 a couple times (getting sprayed cause keg is FULL).
Leave beer in keg with hops for 4-6 days. At this point, no harm in hooking up the co2 while it's dry hopping. If you are dry hopping at room temperature for 5 days in the keg, 10 psi for those 5 days will get you a head start on carbonating. On day 5 ish of keg hopping, pressure transfer to new, purged keg to get off the hops, losing about a half gallon to hops absorption. Beer should be close to carbonated and basically ready to drink, cloudy hop juice. Helps to cold crash on day 4 or 5 of keg hopping, before transferring to clean keg if you want to be drinking it carbonated sooner.

I should add this disclaimer, this was my process twice, both times were (decent) attempts at NE style IPAs. This is NOT my process for all beers. I don't rush beers, but this style is meant to be consumed as fresh and as quickly as possible. I realize it's a quick turnaround, but this assumes proper pitch rates, temperature control, and a reasonable gravity beer (6 - 7%).
 
I've hear of using that in tandem with a sure screen with about an inch cut off of the dip tube. I've read that this will allow for the use of whole leaf or pellet hops.
 
Surescreen with pellets isn't the best. Whole leaf it works better. Sometimes I'll use a Surescreen and also tie a fine mesh bag around it. Look into scott janish's method for keg hopping. It works awesome
 
Think I was gonna do sure screen with a fine mesh hop tube around the sure screen and the dip tube. I just don't trust the tea balls will allow for enough contact and don't plan on using several balls.
 
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