sictransit701
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Getting old and can’t lift my pot. I am wanting to drill a hole in my pot for a ball valve for easy transfer. What kind of drill bit is needed?
Drilling hole in MegaPot 1.2 for ball valve
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tofuguy
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I prefer step bits that go up to 7/8". I usually stop at 13/16" step, but if you accidentally go to 7/8" you can still get a great seal.
Yeah, stop at 13/16 though 
Start with a solid smack with a centerpunch to create both the dimple and a well deep enough to hold an oil puddle.
Then use a 3/16" cobalt twist bit with max pressure and minimum rpm for a pilot hole, followed by a decent quality step bit.
I actually used a Greenlee punch for the finished hole but a large enough step bit would work.
Or, if you're braver than I, go for it with a hole cutting saw, ala Bobby_M at brewhardware.com.
Cheers!
Start with a solid smack with a centerpunch to create both the dimple and a well deep enough to hold an oil puddle.
Then use a 3/16" cobalt twist bit with max pressure and minimum rpm for a pilot hole, followed by a decent quality step bit.
I actually used a Greenlee punch for the finished hole but a large enough step bit would work.
Or, if you're braver than I, go for it with a hole cutting saw, ala Bobby_M at brewhardware.com.
Cheers!
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I have drilled holes in two of my megapots. I went with the soldered pull through fittings from Brewhardware. I am very happy with the results.
The drilling can be a real bear. Stainless steel tends to get "work hardened" very easily. Once that happens it is 10x harder to get the hole through. This happened on one of my holes and I needed to rig up some blocking on my drill press to get enough pressure to get the bit to grab. I then used a stepped bit for the rest of the hole. That one got tough on a couple of the steps too. As much pressure and as slow speed as you can manage are the key. The bit would ideally be going slow enough to see it rotate. This generates less friction/heat which helps prevent work hardening"
I have since purchased some Greenlee punches to use on my next hole, but have not had a chance to try them out yet.
The drilling can be a real bear. Stainless steel tends to get "work hardened" very easily. Once that happens it is 10x harder to get the hole through. This happened on one of my holes and I needed to rig up some blocking on my drill press to get enough pressure to get the bit to grab. I then used a stepped bit for the rest of the hole. That one got tough on a couple of the steps too. As much pressure and as slow speed as you can manage are the key. The bit would ideally be going slow enough to see it rotate. This generates less friction/heat which helps prevent work hardening"
I have since purchased some Greenlee punches to use on my next hole, but have not had a chance to try them out yet.
I have come to the conclusion that the next time I need to "drill" holes in a kettle I am using a knockout punch instead.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012F8GCQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012F8GCQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
When we say "Greenlee" punch, that is what we mean.
Exactly. And one still has to drill a hole to fit the threaded shaft, and that's where most first-timers get vexed...
Cheers!
Cheers!
hankinsonk
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Just wanted to share that a Milwaukee 1/8 in. Cobalt Red Helix Twist Drill Bit from HD cut my pilot hole in my MegaPot 1.2 with some EVOO to lubricate. Took a little while with steady pressure, pausing to redip in EVOO and continuing. Cut my 41 mm hole with a tungsten carbide hole saw, and a little EVOO, from @Bobby_M for my new TRUE Weldless 1.5" TC Triclamp Bulkhead. Cheers!
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